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wtcc5's TT-02 race development and race reports: Version 5.2 release

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Getting closer to production:

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Version3 wants a lot of attention. At least four times the amount of time I needed for version2. I spend hours to draw the heave damper and their surroundings. A lot of other parts got optimized and stronger. I redesigned the preload arms and mounts, the rear body posts and the carbon plate. Also the rear heave damper arms needed a very complex mount to fit the limited space. Overall the part geometry became much more complex and functional than before. Especially if I look back to version1. The new mount for the rear heave damper arm, for example, also carries the outer spring end and has the droop screw insert integrated. I came up with a cool way to mount it: First you press the droop screw insert part in the suspension arm, then you turn it to make it slide over and under the suspension arm and fix it with two screws ^_^

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One last thing regards the heave damper mechanism. I only want the heave dampers to work if both sidesof the suspension compresses. In all other scenarios they should not affect the car. Therefore they need a kind of freedom between the arms...

(4 august 2019)

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It is not just the torque, that will be interesting to see how it will make the car behave, but also the higher speed, because my flap will have a higher angle change than that of the Awesomatix in comparison. From my side it is all just fun and a big experiment. I am no engineer, I am not calculating with viscosity and flap length. I just try to make sure I have no collisions and it will move mechanically :ph34r:

I found time in the night to solve my heave damper problems. The front suspension has hardly any space left to fill with more components. With some skill and luck I could implement two more arms for the heave damper kinematic and drew a new damper end to have no heave damper effect if the suspension is unloaded or under load on one side only.

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The damper end now is more complicated than I want it to be with one joint on the arm and another ball bearing assembly on a rail. Any ideas to reduce the complexity here are very welcome. I for myself couldn't come up with anything better...

Other than that, I think I completed the car as I had imagined it on a functional view. Again I will let the arrangement sink in some more days...

(11 august 2019)

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Then the project took a break. I needed to recharge my batteries.

At the end of november I continued:



Today I prepared the files for the 3D-print. It took several hours to arrange and connect all parts to get a good print and save a little money. Now that this is done Shapeways can do its work. The downside on this v3 version are the increased costs. The 3D-printed-parts alone are around 25% more expensive compared to v2...

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I prepared the data for the carbon parts. The v3 is definetly the most complex geometry I created in my R/C "career".
A lot more carbon parts are needed and the droop plates get pits to incorporate the roll damper housings.


Part arrangement:

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Curves for the dxf/dwg export:

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(23-24 november 2019)

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After a little expert discussion with Michael Koos, I felt the need to evaluate my damper body cap mounting. Michael suggested that they will probably leak easily. This would be uncool. Checking on that matter I felt that my actual geometry was suboptimal. I remembered why I did it like that, but don't like it now. Especially the lower cap mount was in question. It angled around the side of the damper body and would only hold the lower rear part well. The lower front would be secured by a step in the droopplate.
I changed the geometry to three mounts, two in the middle, sitting low and high, one in the rear (where the flap creates the most pressure by moving through the oil) and stayed with the lower front, that will be pushed against the step in the droopplate. Unfortunately there is no space for a fourth mount with screw at this location...

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With the new damper body geometry the droopplates got more sections and the arms got closer to the damper body.

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Some days later:

As I didn't get a feedback from Ahltec (carbon fiber production), yet, I rechecked all my designed parts once more (better checking twice than having parts for 200-250€ laying around and not working/driving well). And I found some drawings I didn't like anymore.

The droop plates got another redesign and optimization, a better support for the damperbody and a little less material overall.

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That was the easy part... the kinematics of the steering-spring-connection left me wondering what I had in mind with the (now old) design (maybe I forgot to redesign after a change on another part..).

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With full lock steering angle the outer arm would preload the leaf spring with more than 4mm. Not good. With the oblong hole adjustment of this effect is possible, but 4mm in the middle position is still too much. As this area is so tight, a lot more parts needed a redesign and/or a relocation: suspension arm, damper rod end, steering-spring-connection arm, new shorter ballcups, bearing hub, outer leaf spring mount, ...

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Finding the right location for the bearings (rotation center for the spring preload arm) proved to be a nightmare. I want the preload gain to be mild (0.5mm - 1mm) and the reduction of the preload strong (1mm and more). Therefore the rotation center should be underneath of the outer leaf spring holder. Impossible! The bearing would be the lower than the tires.
I decided for a compromise. Bearing and holder were placed as close as possible and the transverse section of the leaf holder got an asymmetrical transverse section. This way the more important preload gain could be brought into the already mentioned window. The preload reduction is not as strong with around 1.5mm. This will happen in the middle position on the cfk-preload-arm.

 

(27 november - 4 december 2019)

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I found the time to do a trainings day last saturday :)

The version 2 again showed its pace. Compared to the full pro chassis with high downforce bodies and much stronger 17.5t motors, I was three tenth slower. 9.5s was my fastest laptime. Because of the new carpet and new layout I cannot benefit from my track experience of the last years, so I think there is more pace to find in future runs. The car still misses the explosive rotation in the middle of a corner. This will be my setup target for the next training.

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Some days later:

Last saturday the KRv2 was unleashed again. After the rear balance wasn't good last time out, I removed spacers and lowered the rear arm mounts. 1.4mm arb-wires went on the car (front and rear) and I reduced the rear toe. In Senden the car was instantly 1.5 tenth faster. I also brought my three GT-bodies (Bittydesign Venom, Exotek R8 and Zooracing Zodiac) for extensive comparison runs.

The Venom feels very good balanced and smooth to drive. Considering feeling alone, this is the best body. The R8 feels slightly less smooth, but rotates faster. It also has the least amount of downforce. Timewise both bodies lapped pretty much the same. The Zodiac, while beeing the ugliest of these three GT-bodies, does feel edgy to drive and needs an alert driver; it wants to be controlled much more as the Venom. Overall it is by over a thenth the faster body in Senden. For the next run I combined the rear wing of the R8 with the Zodiac body. The car rotated a little better and my actual personal best laptime appeared in this run also (9.340s with near dead Sorex 28, black insert). To compare that, Gregor Koenig drove with his T4'20 with ETS 17.5t configuration a pb of 9.0s. In the last run I tried 0.5 degrees more camber in front. The car gained a lot of steering. The laptimes didn't show because now the fabric showed on several areas on the front tires... I am happy with that improvement. My next goal needs to be to smooth up the car for a tight rhythym and find another 1.5 tenth.


While the fun in the hobby slowly returns for me, I am also slowly getting fed up with the development of the v3. Most of all because I already thought twice, that I finished all work -_- Well today is the third time that I think the car is ready for production. In between again a lot happened:

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Many parts received small updates, some only for the look, other with an actual benefit on usability. For example the leaf spring mounts. The inner mount was just a tiny plastic mandrel up to now. A design I didn't favor, but had no alternative idea up to now. With the new design the spring will be "attached" by the tip of a small screw. This way the leaf spring can move and still won't leave its place. Another benefit will be, that the leaf spring can be de-/installed by just loosing the screw.
The outer mounts got a little claw added to prevent the spring from leaving the mount in case of a crash.

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In the rear, the active preload system was implemented. As the v3 already has active toe, I can use the small movement of the hub to generate preload change. Arms and mounts were drawn. I also introduced my own hub design to get more design freedom and to make sure the ballstuds attach strong to the hub. For the rear this also brings another welcome possibility to adjust the amount toe- and preload-change independently.

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In front, the steering hubs got a different design to have more possibilities with bump steer and to accomodate the steering angle, that would be limited by the small movement angle of the ballcup (like it was in my old design):

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I used a Volante tire as model to check with build space as it has the smallest rim.



Now I need to let this matter rest some more. Then everything needs to be prepared for production again (I want an assistant for that :lol:).

(8 december 2019)

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I felt, I had to work on one more topic: With the introduction of the heave damper I lost the support of the bumper of the upper brace in case of a crash. While in v2 it would have just broke the droopplate, this time the droopplate and the heave damper mechanism would suffer; and cause a unhappy driver within a short amount of time.
So these two bridges run over the damper (and leave some room for movement). They lock in behind the bumper brace and guide the forces to the topdeck plate and the chassis.

(13 december 2019)

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A new body to try for my v2. Chris (the actual dominator of the GT-Sport class) really likes this Exotek body and also uses it indoors. After my great body test last time out, it came to my mind, that Chris only had good words for it and that I never drove it. This will change now.
For the livery, I decided for a Brumos Racing look with a asymmetric colour scheme.

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It was an interesting day. After the 1/12th race on friday, the track felt different and was definitely slower. After the first runs, I tried which body is the fastest. The times were very close. The Zodiac turns faster, but has a strange feeling, feedback and a nervous rear. Especially the latter made it difficult to drive, as the carpet gained steering. The Exotek is much nicer to drive with strong steering and a calm rear. I could push and control my rhythm better which reflected in consistent laptimes. With the J-Zero GT I drove my new pb with a 9.267s lap on old tires.
The first run on new tires showed how much greater the grip on new tires is. I had grip roll :rolleyes: Right now I am confident to get into the 9.1s B)

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(15 december 2019)

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Today I continued to work on the bumper support. The arcs are angled now to allow the access to different screws. After a movement simulation of arms and heave damper, I could also lower the arcs by 2mm. The droopplate was extended to push the bumper 8mm forward to make space for the heave damper:

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I hope I find the time to prepare all parts for the manufacturing process between christmas and new years.

The time of CAD is finally over.
It took more than two full days to again prepare the data for Shapeways (3D print) and Ahltec (milling service).
Nearly every part received an updated design since the first time I wanted to build the car. This time I am sure everything will work. So even if the car should be slow at least it will be reliable.
With this in mind I uploaded the .stl files to the Shapeways shop. I get the feeling, these guys get more expensive everytime :o

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The second task was to explain via email and by pictures how I wanted the carbon fiber to be milled in the desired shapes. My loyal customers Eric and Michael already seized the opportunity and ordered their v3. Let the waiting for the ordered parts begin.

(17 december 2019 - 3 january 2020)

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I went to practice last sunday in Senden for the upcoming RCKleinkram series. It will be my first race since june last year. Senden bought a new ETS carpet this season and also made a new layout for the track. I find it quite challenging to do a near perfect lap with a proper line through all corners. So it is a long-term motivation to learn the right rhythm.
My aim was to focus on constant and low laptimes while doing little setup changes to find a good balance and prepare the car for the high grip conditions that occur. With a tight and strict time management I went out every 20 minutes for a 10 minute stint. Throughout the day I fell more and more in love with the design of the v2. Every setup change could be felt instantly, when I hit the boards hard I always could continue because the car is so strong. The only spares I have ever used for the v2 are for the powertrain. That is a very welcome surprise.

I couldn’t beat my fastest lap from last time, but stayed close to these times and managed a setup, that is easy to drive, has a lot rotation and allows to take a little bit of curb without grip rolling off the track. In the middle of the day I made a video. The track is full with other stock class cars (mostly non RCKleinserie) and one FF car:

https://youtu.be/4SVGTfmThCw


The realization of the v3 also made some steps forward. Ahltec confirmed that they could produce the carbon parts :)
And I took the decision that the v2 will stay with me for the rest of its life (my life). So I will build the v3 as a new car and not leave its prototype parts in a bag, like I do with the v1 :unsure: Well that decision didn‘t please my wallet...

I visited the indoor track in Senden with my v2 again. The new carpet surprises everytime with a different behaving car. Last time I was very happy with the balance. This time not. The car had too much steering. I increased the rear toe-in and tried different springs and sway bars. The car is now a pleasure to drive and I can now do consistent laptimes within two tenth for the first 7 minutes of the run.

I am also looking at the new Yokomo BD10‘2020 shocks. Not only the black colour attracts my eyes, but the new double-o-ring seal. I wonder if I can convince myself to buy a set, now that the v3 is near :sweat:


I am refreshing the Shapeways website regularly to see the progress of the printing:

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...and it looks good. With a little luck all parts will arrive at the end of next week, when I will have no time to build. Next weekend is a race for the RCKleinkram series in Senden. My first race since june and maybe the last one with the v2...

(6 - 12 january 2020)

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Parts, parts, parts :blush:

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What is taking Ahltec so long for the cfk parts...

 

(16 january 2020)

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Time for the KRv2:

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It‘s raceweekend! Saturday is for practice. Nine starters registered for the GT-Sport class including Chris, my favorite competitor. This guy did an awesome job learning the track in Senden. With his third run already, he could match my speed and drive around track near flawless! My car ran great also. No problems with chrashing or technical difficulties. Tomorrow will include super close racing. I just need to stay calm and focus on the ideal line. Wish me luck, guys!


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(18 january 2020)

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Thanks :lol: Your wishes worked :D

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I cannot remember if I ever had a perfect race like this before. Yesterday it looked like Chris could match my speed. Today it showed, that he had to push his and his cars limits to stay with me. But there is no perfect race without luck. For the qualifiers I was assinged to the smaller group. And these guys did an awesome job and never hold me up when I lapped them. Chris who ran in the second group with one more driver, wasn‘t as lucky and sometimes lost time. As he also had problems with this subject in the finals, I wonder if it also could be the difference between our driving styles and/or that his car livery is orange like some other drivers... Well, I won all qualifiers without any trouble or mistakes by myself.

Then the finals waited after lunchbreak. I ate only half a portion of spaghetti to keep some blood in my head. On the driver stand my typical nervousness tried to invade my hands, but it came to late to give me shaky hands. The start went well and Chris couldn’t push me as I thought he would. I could open a small gap and keep him out of reach for an attack, when in the second lap he touched a lid in a corner and lost some tenth. The new gap really calmed me down and let me develop a strong focus. The rhythm was awesome and backmarkers couldn’t disturb it. Chris had problems with lapping other drivers and so I could close in after 8 minutes to manifest a 1 lap lead. The shaky came after the race as well as a nice feeling, that I still have the upper hand with my v2 conversion.

The second final resembled the first. Chris changed his setup and body to get more steering. This time he could push harder in the beginning. It shook my rhythm a little bit and made me miss some apexes by 20 to 30 cm, but still I was able to pull away with an ease that was a new experience. The car was just awesome in all categories of racing. Chris then touched the lids two times and I was safely out in front, aced through the traffic and again came up behind him...

At first I didn’t want to start in the last final, but a friend said I had to. Now with the win in the bag I could only throw the car away, was my thought. But no, it became the perfect run, avoiding not only curbs, but chrashed cars. Chris was double unlucky with rolling his car and getting tangled up with backmarkers so much that I was half a lap in front after lap two and lapped him also. For this last run, I switched front and rear tires and the car still was great. While writing this, I still cannot believe how good the whole day was and how great the car behaved. The version 2 is just awesome!

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And pictures of the winners:

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(19 january 2020)

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The KR v2 is still attracting (potential) customers. I used my rare off time to create some important documents. A setupsheet and and a parts list:

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The real quality is (of course) flawless vector ;)

(24 january 2020)

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I continue to upgrade the KRv2. Last summer the use of the dust caps was impossible with aftermarket diffs, like for example the 3Racing TT-02 diff, because in all directions it was 1mm larger than the original Tamiya diff. This was a bummer. My customers and I had to use the (in the past) leaking TT-02RR diff or renounce the dust caps. After june I had no time and desire to do a redesign. Well, the KRv3 has an updated design, that offers more space and today my lazy *** finally did an update. My customers can now decide to go for larger dust caps or upgrade completly with larger caps and redesigned mounts (underneath the top plates). The latter allow to remove the motor without having to remove the rear top plate with mount.

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... and then the carbon parts finally arrived :D
Ahltec did a very nice job again! The droopplates look razorsharp and even the smallest parts are nearly flawless. I will spent the sunday in the mancave :lol:
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3D-Puzzle part one: Preparing the plastic parts

Lasersintered parts need attention for a perfect build. To save money I attach the parts to each other with small branches. So in the first step, I remove the parts off the branch and then make sure that nothing of the branch is left on the part. Because I buy the parts in black, but the powder for the print is white, there will be a white point left after the branch remove. That would look bad, so a little paint of a touch up pen hides these marks.

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The second step is to prepare the holes for the thread/screws, the seats for the ballbearings and the fitment in the cfk-parts. I drill all holes to the right size and take away material if necessary. Then all needed threads will be pressed in by a steelscrew before assembly.

(25 january 2020)

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And so it begins: I made a photo (love) story of the buildsteps. So far I made no mistakes, but need more blue screws in different sizes. The build so far isn't easy. I needed my laptop to check the positions and direction of the parts a lot. I hope with these pictures it becomes easier to follow my steps. What I can say after the first day, is, that I have never build a complex suspension like that :rolleyes:
Enough rant! Enjoy the pictures:


I started with the rear body posts.

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Anti roll bars:

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Droop plates and arm mounts:

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Arms:

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Rear suspension: Active preload mounts and arms

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Droop screw inserts and heave damper arms:

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Roll damper - arm connection:

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Anti-roll-bar-end retainer:


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(26 january 2020)

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Second part:


Heave damper mounts:

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Marriage with the droopplate:

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Leaf spring adjuster:

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Droop screw:

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Axles and hubs:

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Active preload links:

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The rear unit without damper:

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The build will go on soon. Next week, all the parts I forgot to order will allow me to continue. I forgot so much :(

(26 january 2020)

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As we are speaking of forgetting things:

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I am stupid :mellow:

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Well, show must go on. I disassembled my TT-02S for the Tamiya Euro Cup Gentleman Class to get blue screws and other parts, to continue the build.


After the rear was assembled, I continued with the front, beginning with the droop inserts and screws:

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Roll-Damper-End Retainer:

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Anti-Roll-Bar-End Retainer, the direction of the plastic spacer is important:

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Heaver damper arms:

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Active preload arms:

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Marriage of arms and droop plate:

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Overview of the front:

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Front steering hub assembly:

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(28 january 2020)

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In todays news: I am running out of parts :lol: This conversion consumes more blue screws than I can pay. Thank god its february soon ;) And the worst of all: I had to order a pair of Tamiyas dcj. I thought, I had two pairs in my TT-02S, but did not. As well as blue turnbuckles and nuts...


I continued the build in the evening. The hubs got completed and attached to the front suspension:

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Front top plate:

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Battery mount:

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Leaf spring build and integration:

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Unfortunately in the front you need to remove the outer spring holder. In the rear you can just slide the spring in. I am very happy with the inner spring mount. The spring can move free on its sphere shaped bottom, but cannot leave the place, because of the screwtip holding it:

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Right now it looks as if I made no mistake with the location and preload adjustments. Just the inner preloadscrew has very little space underneath the anti-roll-bar wire. My guess is, that I need to shorten it between 0.5-1.0mm to achieve a wide preload window and to prevent collision.

 

(29 january 2020)

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This afternoon the turnbuckles and the djc arrived. I added the axles to the front suspension and attached the ballends to all turnbuckles. The Awesomatix P02 ballends got optimized. I cut off a slice of the upper flat part to prevent it from rubbing on the Volate wheels and also drilled a hole in it to get access to the ballstud from above with a screwdriver.


Just look at the number of ballends and turnbuckles :lol: (with 4 turnbuckles and 8 ballends already installed):

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After dismantling my "Gentleman" class TT-02, I saw a long crack in the tub on one of the diff cap screw holes, so I will build the car around a new tub. I also have some minor tasks still open, like removing a little material from the droop plates (normal) and also a little off of the front arms to clear the lower diff wall screw holes. That wasn't planned, but is not hurting.

As it seems right now, I will finish the assembly this weekend (with the most complicated task still to master).

(30 january 2020)

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I made a good step towards the awaited completion. Well, not without detours.

It is damper time and with it one big milestone for this conversion. Here comes the theory:

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Then just screw the endplate on and be fine, right? No... (time for: "I told you!") unfortunately my trust in the material was too strong and it didn't work. The the o-ring seal pushed the cap open and the oil leaked around the bearing location at the cap side. I grinded the whole area to get smooth surfaces and a deeper sitting o-ring, used green slime, but still without success. As this is the only weak spot of the damper (up to now), I guess, a end cap made of aluminium would solve this problem.

For the time until then, my work around is to assemble the damper from the open side, then glue the end cap to the body. I fill the damper from the rod side with a syringe and then put on the other o-ring, spacer and bearing. Fortunately this method worked surprisingly well, so that I ended up with an airless and sealed damper.

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Damper installation:

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(1 february 2020)

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Heave Damper:

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Fortunately no problems here ^_^


The suspension units are ready to be installed! I am preparing the tub and all other components, so stay tuned for pictures of the assembled (not race ready) car ;)


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(1 february 2020)

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Are you prepared? Here it comes, my interpretation of a Tamiya TT-02 (except for the upper bumper brace :( ):

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I wanted to write some nice words, but cannot articulate my happiness in a proper way. The car is a beauty and the links, arms and joints work better than expected. I feel like talking to a girl the first time :P

(1 february 2020)

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I stopped doing likes, it simply does not diginfy your design. Its so much rc tech porn. :wub:

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After the amazing assembly phase, the uncool adjustment phase follows.
Today I gave the chassis a starting setup, adjusted the springs, preload arms and heave damper length, removed the slop from the anti-roll-bar and damper retainers in front. Compared to the KRv2 spring rate, the Awesomatix leaf spring feels soft. I wonder were I end up after the first shakedown runs.

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(2 february 2020)

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