Jump to content
wtcc5

wtcc5's TT-02 race development and race reports

Recommended Posts

I have to apologize for letting you guys hanging without new infos for so long. I had to finish another urgent project first. Since then I used most of my free time for the v5.1. Never underestimate the time it takes to make all the little details perfect, to draw all the setup arms and prepare the parts for production. Today, I finished the parts list and made the new setup sheet. I still owe you pictures of the rear design.

Overview:

Bildschirmfoto-2023-12-24-um-22-30-09.pn

Bildschirmfoto-2023-12-24-um-22-30-30.pn

Most recognizable is the new shape of the droop plate. Mostly influenced by the changed anti-roll-bar layout. I am very happy how close the lower damper end sits to the arm centerline and that the damper slips in between arm and the active-toe-link. The anti-roll-bar-mount is attached by one screw and is guided by the slot in the droop plate. To avoid possible collisions the arm has 0,5mm layer removed just above the rod stopper:

Bildschirmfoto-2023-12-24-um-22-32-04.pn

Bildschirmfoto-2023-12-24-um-22-31-20.pn

With the upper shock mounts moved closer to the center of the chassis, I had to come up with new rear body post mounts. The plastic was replaced by carbon and I added several height adjustments (as requested by my patron and friend Michael Koos):

Bildschirmfoto-2023-12-24-um-22-30-55.pn

Bildschirmfoto-2023-12-24-um-22-32-46.pn

Also attached with one screw, it will interlock with the rear of the top plate.

So this is the new version. What cannot be seen here are changes I made to the droop plates and top plates to make live easier and the build more enjoyable. Up to now you had to glue 0.5mm plates underneath the top plates to fill the space between the central drive shaft ball bearings. Now these are integrated. Also the chamfering by hand of the droop plates to avoid a collision the lower diff housing of the tub won't be necessary anymore.

In the last step, I contacted my part producers and now wait for the invoices for the prices.

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got an answer from my manufacturers: I can offer the set of carbon and 3d-print parts for 189€ (plus shipping) if anyone is interested ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Made more updates I don’t want to keep a secret:

Bildschirmfoto-2024-01-21-um-10-52-05.pn

Most significant is the updated bumper design. It got a bit slimmer and strengthens towards the bumper posts:

Bildschirmfoto-2024-01-21-um-10-52-33.pn

And then I made adapter plates for the RCmaker pro mount. This way my customers and I can skip making holes in the body for the horizontal body posts, use shorter and lower body posts and have a better force load from wing to chassis. You can also set the body height in finer steps:
 
Bildschirmfoto-2024-01-21-um-10-53-30.pn


Bildschirmfoto-2024-01-21-um-10-54-10.pn

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My manufacturer is busy:

IMG-1608.jpg


I am too. A good friend is king of the bumper game and I asked him to print the new v5.1 design. It became perfect:

IMG-1612.jpg


Since I am doing practice runs today, I immediately installed it:

IMG-1614.jpg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The practice yesterday was for the upcoming RCK-Challenge race. I will join the GT-Challenge class, like I did mid November last year. 
Changing back to the much weaker RCK-17.5t motor was a mild shock. At first I didn't hit one apex and later on I thought I had bearing failure, because it doesn't accelerate much after the chicane leading on the straight :lol: Compared to the Hobbywing G4 this RCK motor is a "bicycle tyre inflator". After checking, the car was alright and I could adapt. In the early afternoon I had the car in the sweet spot. Very easy to drive and predictable, while not scrubbing speed (everything I tried later was slower). 

IMG-1620.jpg

My times in the last race felt not bad: fastest lap 9.852s, fastest qualifyer 30L 5:02.214, fastest final 42L 7:05.111
With the track development throughout the last months and my setup improvements, I could easily beat all these times: fastest lap 9.578s, fastest five-minute-run 31L 5:07.820, fastest seven-minute-run 43L 7:07.841

IMG-1618.jpg

IMG-1619.jpg


Saved all changes in a Setup Sheet:

tt02-krv5-setup-sheet-rck-challenge.png


 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Early this week the carbon parts arrived:
IMG-1686.jpg
IMG-1685.jpg

With the next race this Sunday, I thought about if I should build the v5.1 (taking a risk) or use the v5 and build the v5.1 later... Well, I think I am pretty much easy to fathom: I started the build!

As always, preparing the 3d-printed parts. Removing them from the frame:
IMG-1688.jpg

Painting the white spots black:
IMG-1689.jpg

Drilling the bore holes. First with a 2.5mm drill, then drilling the 3mm holes:
IMG-1693.jpg

Then making the M3-threads:
IMG-1694.jpg

I moved all ballstuds from the v5 upper brace to the v5.1 brace:
IMG-1696.jpg

New anti roll bars are needed. I made a drawing and then bend the front bar:
IMG-1697.jpg

IMG-1698.jpg

The front arb is integrated in the bumper:
IMG-1699.jpg

IMG-1700.jpg

IMG-1701.jpg

The next steps were a bit tougher. To make a very compact arb-arm-mount happen, I use Tamiyas 54869 Open Face Adjusters and optimize them. In the first step, I took the 2.5mm drill and completly drill through the shaft until it comes out in the ball opening. Then I make the M3 thread. In a last step, these need to be cut down to 10mm length:
IMG-1702.jpg

I also shortened the thread of the 5mm ballstud from 5 to 3mm. This then results in this assembly:
IMG-1703.jpg

IMG-1706.jpg

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Unfortunately, the weekend race has to happen without me. I got ill :cry: At least I could finish the build before getting knocked out by influenza.


Still at the front of the car, the droop plate received the arm mounts. I raised the bar of the v5.1 build by having all chamfers made by my manufacturer now. So no extra work needed:
IMG-1707.jpg

IMG-1708.jpg

Front arm installation:
IMG-1709.jpg

IMG-1710.jpg


Installing the droop plate to the tub:
IMG-1711.jpg

IMG-1712.jpg

And then one of my build highlights, installing the shocks:
IMG-1713.jpg

The last steps for the front.

Front bumper assembly:
IMG-1714.jpg

Before the bumper can be installed, the droop plate support comes first:
IMG-1715.jpg

With the new arb-mount design, it is now much easier to install the bumper plate:
IMG-1716.jpg

IMG-1717.jpg

Only upper arms and hubs left. For now I stayed with the Xray steering arms (because I thought I would race this car this weekend...):
IMG-1720.jpg

IMG-1721.jpg





 

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now to the changes in the middle. With my new weights layout, I moved the battery close to the prop shaft. This made a relocation of the upper mounts necessary . I also added claws to the ends, so I don’t need to glue a piece of foam to the chassis wall:
IMG-1735.jpg

IMG-1736.jpg

And while at it I exchanged the aluminum prop shaft as well, as it was ligthly bend.

For the rear upper plate it was pretty much the same work as in front. Exchanging the ballstuds, checking the proper shimming of the ball bearings, adding the thumbscrews for the shocks:
IMG-1738.jpg

New is the mounting concept of the rear body post plates via one screw and a pin from the topplate. Unfortunately this pin didn’t fit in the hole as planned. I removed a bit of material from the upper side until it fit:
IMG-1737.jpg

The rear droopplate has compared to the front, two different features. One are the split arb mounts:
IMG-1740.jpg

...and two are the active-toe-link ballnuts:
IMG-1741.jpg

In this picture I have already added the arm mounts and droop screws.

Putting in the arms is generally no problem. It can occur though, that they sit tight on new ball cups. If so take a round file and remove a whee bit of material step by step until it is perfect. On my old and worn ballcups I experienced both tight and loose situations. For the latter you can put on a film of crazy glue into the ring, let it fully dry and then check again ;)

IMG-1742.jpg

In the picture the distance for the toe-links for 2.5 degree toe-in.

It was time to complete the arm assembly with the arb-damper-mounts. Again preparing four ballcups as described above and shorten two ballstud-threads to 3mm:
IMG-1744.jpg

Then put the parts together like shown and attach the ballstud to the mount:
IMG-1745.jpg

IMG-1746.jpg

IMG-1747.jpg

Rear anti-roll-bar bend and added:

IMG-1748.jpg

IMG-1750.jpg


The whole unit attached to the tub and dampers installed:
IMG-1752.jpg

IMG-1751.jpg


And then I realized, that I cannot install the droop plate support with the arb installed :lol: Luckily it is just two screws to remove the arb-mount:
IMG-1753.jpg

... to be continued.





 

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Crazy cool Kevin, it look´s so compact now with the short dampers behind an d in front of the wishbones. Cool, that you still found the place for steering links etc.. Really stunning, and countless ideas still in your head! Hats off!:)

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Last step’s before completion.
The rear hubs got the new toe-plates:

IMG-1754.jpg

These are generously chamfered for more suspension angle.


Only the upper arms left to add:

IMG-1755.jpg


And that’s it. The new v5.1:

IMG-1757.jpg

IMG-1756.jpg

IMG-1758.jpg

IMG-1755.jpg

IMG-1760.jpg

IMG-1759.jpg

IMG-1761.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...