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Nicadraus

Vintage Wild One to Blockhead conversion

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No.... I meant at the PIVOTS. Front and Rear. Overkill? Probably. I'm like that! 😜

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I think this was done on a Frog or Blackfoot some years ago by a member , probably is overkill though 

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Here's an essential for all ESCs installed inside covered tub chassis. A high RPM fan.

Because ESCs placed in enclosed areas build up more heat as it lacks proper ventilation. One of the reasons why some ESCs overheat or gets fried.

I found a perfect spot to install this one. Mounted on the MSC servo screw slot, facing directly to the ESC.

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2 hours ago, Carmine A said:

No.... I meant at the PIVOTS. Front and Rear. Overkill? Probably. I'm like that! 😜

Definitely overkill in my opinion. Even TRF buggies (and touring cars) don't use bearings on the suspension arms.

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3 hours ago, KEV THE REV said:

I think this was done on a Frog or Blackfoot some years ago by a member , probably is overkill though 

The ORV Chassis NEEDS Bearings on those floppy Arms!! 

..... Unless you're just in it for fun.

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I posted this as reply in the other thread but I thought I'd also post it here.

The WO chassis have some holes under and I placed the fan just on top of the round hole which serves as an inlet for cold air to come in. The other holes such as the switch hole, serves as an outlet too. 

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8 hours ago, Carmine A said:

The ORV Chassis NEEDS Bearings on those floppy Arms!! 

..... Unless you're just in it for fun.

I had a Brat converted to Frog in the 80s and that chassis is simply made for fun. There is no way or point in modifying the trailing arms with a bearing because the chassis wasn't just designed to be a race buggy. Not competitively designed for such upgrade. I had mine modified with full ball bearings, Le Mans 240ST, 480T & Dynatech motors, Futaba MC110 ESC, aluminum racing shocks, gear diff and a few others but it's just too limited to race on the track with the real racers. Unless you re-engineer the chassis to improve the entire suspension, it has to be changed to something else and not use the same suspension.

Something like this...

No photo description available.

Here's another example of a modified one but the rear suspension trailing arms was left the way it was.

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That’s a great fan set up in there @Nicadraus, I have a ReRe with a 13.5 brushless 2s & TBLE 02 ESC it has thermaled a couple of times in longish grass after 20 minutes but has been fine otherwise so your’s should work a treat👍🏻

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Some updates:

My tires have finally arrived.

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I installed a stiffener for the front shock mounts. I found a steel bar perfect for it. It was from a metal bumper bar of a crawler that I had kept. With a few spacers, fit perfectly!

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What Lightbuckets did you use for the rear sqare Taillights?

I would love to install them to my Buggys, but i only find round ones.....

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2 hours ago, whahooo said:

What Lightbuckets did you use for the rear sqare Taillights?

I would love to install them to my Buggys, but i only find round ones.....

It' a set I ordered. Came in four pieces. I installed two in my CFX and two here. I used all for rear lights.

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I changed the rear wheels to match the front. The SA wheels are just to precious to get ruined.

I guess it's finished...

for now.

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I still want to get a new set of body and do my own paint scheme. Hopefully soon.

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Since the Wild One is now again the talk-of-the-town, I'll like to post a late update:

Front shocks replaced to same as the rear but cut off 1.5 turns of springs to make it softer and inserted 5mmspacers in the shaft to decrease length. I used shrink tube (2 layers) as the spacers. Damping is so much better than stock now.

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A real labour of love and looks worth every moment you spent on it.   Love some of the custom touches such as the roof and fin. 

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35 minutes ago, GeeWings said:

A real labour of love and looks worth every moment you spent on it.   Love some of the custom touches such as the roof and fin. 

Thank you!

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That looks great. Have fun driving it. It is hard to beat a wild one on some loose stuff. They just look right. To me they exemplify Tamiya’s original premise i.e. radio control scale models rather than the fantasy buggies etc that they produce now. Just look at the re re’s that everyone is clamouring for, a lot seem to fit that brief.

what wheel tyre combination did you end up with?

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On 3/31/2021 at 7:29 PM, Nicadraus said:

Here's an essential for all ESCs installed inside covered tub chassis. A high RPM fan.

Because ESCs placed in enclosed areas build up more heat as it lacks proper ventilation. One of the reasons why some ESCs overheat or gets fried.

I found a perfect spot to install this one. Mounted on the MSC servo screw slot, facing directly to the ESC.

7BbXez3h.jpg

if ESC overheat, maybe it is rather due to the gear ratio which is probably having a longer development than it should. I paid attention to this when I built my Turbo Scorpion, as the ESC is inside the tub, without any fan neither holes to disperse the heat. So far, and even during the summer, I never got any thermal issue. I do pay attention to 2 things when doing my builds in this area :

  • an ESC able to sustain at least 20% more than the Motor would consume. a brushless 13.5T is around 50A in max consumption, I would go for a 60A ESC at least (you can do more, but not mandatory), with specs that indicates it can runs without the fan with the motor I target
  • a good motor should come with a recommended ratio. I try to get as much as possible close of this.

Normally the fan is only required when you get the ESC is stress zone which is typically what happens when you have a motor consuming too much for the ESC, or when the gear ratio is too long for the motor...

 

That being said, nice car, and with the Scorpions, probably one of my favourite. Clearly a Wild One is in my wish list.

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On 9/16/2021 at 2:00 AM, silvertriple said:

if ESC overheat, maybe it is rather due to the gear ratio which is probably having a longer development than it should. I paid attention to this when I built my Turbo Scorpion, as the ESC is inside the tub, without any fan neither holes to disperse the heat. So far, and even during the summer, I never got any thermal issue. I do pay attention to 2 things when doing my builds in this area :

  • an ESC able to sustain at least 20% more than the Motor would consume. a brushless 13.5T is around 50A in max consumption, I would go for a 60A ESC at least (you can do more, but not mandatory), with specs that indicates it can runs without the fan with the motor I target
  • a good motor should come with a recommended ratio. I try to get as much as possible close of this.

Normally the fan is only required when you get the ESC is stress zone which is typically what happens when you have a motor consuming too much for the ESC, or when the gear ratio is too long for the motor...

 

That being said, nice car, and with the Scorpions, probably one of my favourite. Clearly a Wild One is in my wish list.

I actually never had over heating issues and no problems with gearing as the WO only has two options in terms of pinion gears. So no over gearing there. I just added the fan because, one, I have them as extras and two, the electronics chamber of the WO is enclosed. I just taught of putting this one to have a better ventilation sucking air in and pushing out. 

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18 hours ago, Busdriver said:

That looks great. Have fun driving it. It is hard to beat a wild one on some loose stuff. They just look right. To me they exemplify Tamiya’s original premise i.e. radio control scale models rather than the fantasy buggies etc that they produce now. Just look at the re re’s that everyone is clamouring for, a lot seem to fit that brief.

what wheel tyre combination did you end up with?

The wheels are from the DT-03. Front tires also from DT-03 while the rear are generic which I found online and have a good traction and compound. Very cheap too. They actually come with wheels too.

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5 minutes ago, Nicadraus said:

I actually never had over heating issues and no problems with gearing as the WO only has two options in terms of pinion gears. So no over gearing there. I just added the fan because, one, I have them as extras and two, the electronics chamber of the WO is enclose. I just taught of putting this one to have a better ventilation sucking air in and pushing out. 

I see. My point was just to mention the fact it might not be required eventually. The Turbo Scorpion bath tub is completely closed - and even the battery is enclosed. I did opened it at some point to touch the ESC : it as not particularly hot. That being said, initially I ran a SkyRC Toro TS120A with the 13.5T motor. That was particularly overkill. I did replace it by a Performa Racing P1 60A ESC, and it does not heat much. It's a fanless design, so it might help. That being said, running a lower turns number motor might be challenging in those environments, really...

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5 hours ago, silvertriple said:

I see. My point was just to mention the fact it might not be required eventually. The Turbo Scorpion bath tub is completely closed - and even the battery is enclosed. I did opened it at some point to touch the ESC : it as not particularly hot. That being said, initially I ran a SkyRC Toro TS120A with the 13.5T motor. That was particularly overkill. I did replace it by a Performa Racing P1 60A ESC, and it does not heat much. It's a fanless design, so it might help. That being said, running a lower turns number motor might be challenging in those environments, really...

I installed a 23t motor in this one. I just want it to be a runner and not a racer as I'm more cautious not to ruin it. But I might change that roll cage once the new re-re parts come out. I like a silver cage instead of the red and will most like get a new set of body to do my own theme or paint scheme.

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On 8/8/2021 at 7:39 PM, Nicadraus said:

Since the Wild One is now again the talk-of-the-town, I'll like to post a late update:

Front shocks replaced to same as the rear but cut off 1.5 turns of springs to make it softer and inserted 5mmspacers in the shaft to decrease length. I used shrink tube (2 layers) as the spacers. Damping is so much better than stock now.

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Can you tell me what shocks you used? I’ve recently picked up a second hand FAV and Wild One. The FAV definitely needs new shocks and these loom perfect.

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Update on my WO rebuild:

Ordered parts and they arrive. Still waiting for the new main chassis and grey roll cage to completely convert this to an almost new kit in black/silver/grey parts eliminating all the red as well. 

Parts: 

Parts: #19006986, #19006987, #19006988, #19115534,

Main chassis: #19335648

Roll cage: #1933857

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I skipped the supplied sticker and I went with minimalist look of the body. Will still add carbon fiber bits and pieces soon. Still in progress...

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