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Fabia130vRS

Nikko Hydroboat Toy conversion to Brushless

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So I had this idea for some while now. 
my buddy bought a Genesis 1132 and that made me want a boat too.

 

so started the Toy grade boat to convert to a full brushless lipo 2.4GHz speed boat.

zCTnGqY.jpg
 

took out all the electronics and started with solving the spring loaded servo with a standards servo. Anyhow this boat had two spring sistems in order to center the steering. One was on the servo saver I could not ise with a normal servo. Made a direct servo horn with a traxxas servo that was previously used in a F104, so having the arms cut off came in handy.

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lubed the propeller shaft, its a 23mm 3 blade propeller. Now I need a motor and esc.

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its a 9T 0.8 Pinion and 17T 0.8 Spur. FDR 1.88.

on 2s thats with a 7200kv motor, 53.280 rpm, after gear reduction 28.340 rpm, would it be better to mount the motor directly to the propeller shaft? Or does it benefit from this ratio?? I have absolutely no knowledge about rc boats so excuse the question.

I am thinking to buy this brushless combo.

hPLAvFM.jpg

 Any thoughts or ideas?

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And are there any bearings in this size...

10mm/8mm outside diameter, 6mm inner diameter and 3,5mm thick.

rarLUal.jpg

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Having tried to upgrade a boat with both high powered brushed and brushless setups there is an Achilles heel. Heat. Inside a closed hull there is no airflow so both ESC and Motor can thermal or in the case of my first attempt emitted evil black smoke and burned out my favourite Black speed 400. Water cooling is the way to go. I think the motor is more important and water cooling coils are available for all sort of motor sizes. All you need is a pick up point close to the rear and and exit point usually at the side. You connect each to opposite ands of the coil and off you go.

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Have thought of that, and found this. 
 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/173943405709

I want to try it with the electric water pump. As I dont think this will be fast enought to pick up water on its own.

I might have a esc heat sink from a friend, and can make my own motor heat sink of copper tubing. Pick up water from the rear and push it out at the back.

 

took the pinion off als. I thought its a long motor shaft, but the pinion it self has a shaft sticking out, will make it a lot easier to install the motor.

TvnWSPa.jpg

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Just have put in a order for these items.

two nozzles for water in-outlet.

one water pump that should be powerd by the aux channel on the reciever.

a 2430 Race star 8200kv motor

a 30A esc

it should work on 2s and 3s.

4VRxmMu.jpg
ewtnpBr.jpg

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Be surprised if you need the pump. I have boats that have a speed 400 brushed motor in that pick up water without any problem. Also as the motor heats up it seems to suck water through. Don’t understand the physics?

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I’ll take some pictures  later today for you

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28 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

Be surprised if you need the pump. I have boats that have a speed 400 brushed motor in that pick up water without any problem. Also as the motor heats up it seems to suck water through. Don’t understand the physics?

I have no idea how its supposed to work.

 

from my understanding... I have read on 1:10-1:8 speed boats the pick up need to be placed on the edge of the propeller blades about 2cm away thats where the strongest water pressure is. 
 

the pump is quite small and I think it will get better water flow throught the esc towards the motor. Wanted it to have “just in case”

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Don’t know if any of this will help but here are some pictures of an 18 inch boat powered by a speed 400 motor. The water pickup is a bit of copper/brass tube angled forwards through the bottom of the hull. The silicone tubing loops up and over to the cooling coil then back to one of the exhaust outlets. This uses a direct drive motor and a 2 blade prop. It’s fast!!  Not scale at all. I used to run it on 8.4 Nicads which on a 7.2 volt motor used to run real hot but with cooling it’s touchable after 15/20 minutes of running. No pumps but the water comes out of the rear in a jet.D896F5C7-6875-4E66-B191-65B72CCADB34.jpeg.5a41020dfbdfff9dafed740f8e85ae04.jpegBD4F0102-0530-4481-9763-0F478D7E6468.jpeg.7d80e542456ab6b959776b1630f56d6f.jpeg40798906-83E3-4738-B345-D25FD2DA27DC.jpeg.c53199999330165b7ca1a936815bcded.jpegF572D853-7103-449A-BE71-68A29DC108B0.jpeg.fe987b45a9b0fde365854e62398fecc9.jpeg4FE4B89E-460E-4CD2-9BB3-E0BEA63ACC00.jpeg.466f67e05f622c23a0422a94ff827e7b.jpeg

if you can keep it simple if you can.

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Thanks, Very promising that this boat above is fast.  Compared to how a Nikko

toy boat is slow... this makes it very promising to me.

 

I played a little bit with copper tubes and made this.

k3xWJ1K.jpg
 

just a copper tube to go around the factory heat sink. In order to cool it just a little bit.

my idea is to get water from the rear next to the prop and then into the esc > motor > out to the side.

I will try it out without the pump first, as the have informed me there is a delay in restocking the pump.

but the esc and motor will ship immediately.

I am a big fan of putting the water inlet in front as a jet.... but I dont really want to drill the old toy plastics.

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And did some more today.

redid the battery wires as they needed to be laying down flat in order to close the compartment. A XT60 connector found its place where the original Tamiya connector was.

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the battery ends in a T connector to suit the ESCs T connector. This basically will make it easier to take off and disconnect the top of the boat. Having to disconnect 3 wires in total to seperate the top and the bottom. Servo, esc, battery.

also my buddy gave me a heat sink that is used for escs... to work with my motor heat sink. The copper tube wasnt a great idea as it adds much more wieght as if the tube was aluminium.

BsMOxWE.jpg

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Fitted reciever and antenna tube. Pink-ish color and rubber cap on top is a must!

xlJSGjo.jpg

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While waiting for the esc and motor I started making a tray where I could mount the esc without fearing water could get to it.

 

I ended up using screen protectors from an iphone 5. I think they are some kind of thin glass.

with hot glue fixed and sealed. No chance water can enter through the shaft into he hull anymore. Also the esc will be double adhesive tape fixed in the center sitting nice low.

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Nit the nicest solution but I like it being see through so I can monitor if any water builds up

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Put a shrink tube over the prop shaft to motor connector. Its a plastic drive shaft and plastic cup connected to the motor.

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there was a brushed 280 motor inside before, now we are going brushless 2430 size 8200kV. 
I am expecting the plastic parts to brake if high rpm applied. Can upgrade later to be more robust. But dont want to spend anymore as I put a new order in this morning. Found stuff cheaper then I paid before and order again the same but like 5$ cheaper each.

Now I will seperate the motor cooling from the esc cooling and have two individual lines running for each. 
 

YIyZ7EQ.jpg
 

and the other parts with cost overview so far.

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I had luck to buy the battery I am using a year ago from T2shop for 10€. A saddle pack 7.4V 3900mAh 55c with a cheap 2ch radio.

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While waiting for the parts of this Nikko boat.

 

I came to a silly idea.

will start a 1/43 ?? Runaway boat.

 

powered by a 3s 180mAh 45C and a samll can motor. 180?? 
just a on off switch will be a good esc, transmitter will be a fishing line tied to the boat.

:D 

sWYBJFD.jpg

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Progress so far.

 

one water pick up installed and drilled holes for the other pick up. Also two holes where the tubing will go inside.

1brsGpi.jpg
kc73bdy.jpg

LwL4IIj.jpg
 

pretty much still waiting on everything. Esc, motor, 1 more water pick up and two outlets. With silicone tubing. Confident about it.

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So electrics arrived. 30A esc and 8200kv 2430 motor.

perfect fit into the standard motor cass, just with little modifications like opening a hole for the wires to come out at the end as the location of wires is different. Also had to make the wires longer to take of the stress from them as the wires originally were a tiny bit too short.

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Using some old silicone tubing to test fit the water cooling line position. This is the end result so far. 
DDwWqOf.jpg

just waiting now on the resto bits for water pick up and new silicone tubing.

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