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How to Prepare a Lexan Body?

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Hi there,

I am hoping for a bit of steering in the right direction. Because I wasn't happy with how my lexan body turned out, I ordered a replacement so that I could have another go. I used the score and snap technique to remove the excess, which worked well. As well as sanding down the rough edges. I later keyed the inside with some fine paper so the paint would hold properly and that gave a decent finish for the most part.

What I wasn't happy with was the intricate corners in the shell where the excess was hard to remove. I didn't get a smooth curve and in a couple of places the shell cracked which was really not good. The other point was that I had trouble getting an even spray into the smaller recesses in the shell (like where the horizontal and vertical planes of the rear spoiler join for example). So before I proceed, my questions are twofold:

1) How do I remove the excess shell when it goes into a tight point? I now have a handheld drill (like a Dremell). Would drilling a small hole in the excess then sanding what is left the way to go?

2) How do I get an even coat of paint into the inner recesses? Would a separate pot and a small brush do the job?

Many thanks.

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Never used the score & snap technique, always used proper Lexan curved scissors - Tamiya product naturally.

Wheel arches can be smoothed with abrasive paper wrapped around a suitably sized piece of tube - I generally use an aerosol spray can as these come in different sizes and there are always a few to hand.

Never needed to key the inside surface either - just make sure the body has been washed & allowed to dry properly - I just use shower gel or shampoo and wash it in the bath.

Better to spray several thin coats than a couple of thick coats to avoid paint runs. Recessed areas may need paint sprayed more directly into them.  

Trimming the shell - take your time - Dremel tool is a good idea for tricky areas but go easy as they can remove material very quickly.

   

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I also use the scissor technique and then finish the edges with a fine Dremel sanding drum, cuts come out great.  Nothing worse than a sloppy trim job, the best paint job in the world can't hide that.

As for painting in tight spots, just get in there and put a heavy coat in the tight corners.  Tamiya PS paint is pretty resistant to running, but definitely be aware not to spray too much.  I think the most important thing for good coverage is backing properly/sufficiently.  Always choose a color that enhances or compliments the original color so you don't end up with any oddly colored spots.  I back every single lexan paint job in standard Rustoleum 2X flat black and it gives a great finished look to the underside of the body,  If spraying a light color I'll back in white then black, if doing a metallic color I'll pack in PS41 (Bright Silver), then black.   

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Score and cut all day long 

then clean with a green scouring pad 

then kitchen roll dry 

then light spray for first coat 

then a few more heavier coats

then I back with either silver, black or white

good luck 

 

JJ

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1 hour ago, Problemchild said:

Score and cut all day long

Only tried that once, wasn't really , score and snap, for me, more ,score and slip up part of the body I wanted to keep ,or score and slip then A+E....😳

Some swear by it, i tended to swear at it!! 😂

I've a few bodies just landed ,one for my daughter's KF2se (going for a ,Pac Man theme) my laydown, a Storm truck and one for my Dark Impact, so I'll try again on one of them, and see how I go......🚑

A mate has lent me his full air brush set up (gun, compressor, paints and thinners), so that'll be fun....

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I use a combination of score-snap/peel and scissors - it really depends on the body im working with - and then for wheel arches that are circular or as close to circular as possible, i use a compass cutter.

Typically this results in (if using a touring car body):

  • ALL skirts done with score-snap/peel
  • ALL wheel arches started with compass-cutter; finished with scissors
  • ANY ares were theres a lot of mold variance; e.g. bumper curves under and up or just areas where the lexan as become more solid as a result of a bend or shape, i'll typically use scissors.
  • FINALLY clean up any intricate areas with a blade/hobby-knife and then a light sand along edges

I cant say i usually use any serous rough scouring when washing, just a softer scotch-bright type cleaning sponge, and a good amount of detergent. Mostly use the sponge side, but do use the rougher side for a light rub, but nothing serious.

Then as others have said, a light coat to start, and build up as required or color/scheme dictates.

 

 

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Throw it in the bin and buy a hard body!

Also, 26" forever!

Jenny x

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9 hours ago, Wooders28 said:

Only tried that once, wasn't really , score and snap, for me, more ,score and slip up part of the body I wanted to keep ,or score and slip then A+E....😳

Some swear by it, i tended to swear at it!! 😂

I've a few bodies just landed ,one for my daughter's KF2se (going for a ,Pac Man theme) my laydown, a Storm truck and one for my Dark Impact, so I'll try again on one of them, and see how I go......🚑

A mate has lent me his full air brush set up (gun, compressor, paints and thinners), so that'll be fun....

I use a sharp scalpel - you really don’t have to press very hard and use use the tip

Modelcraft PKN9210# 3 Scalpel Handle & 5#10A Blades, Silver, Set of 6 Pieces https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06ZYLRH6H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_5QNTP1Z63Y975NBGF2E6

just draw like it’s a pen

JJ

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I've done the score and snap method for wheel arches with pretty decent results but have had a few F-ups still. Going to try that Olfa cutter on my next one and see how that pans out. The tracing of the cut line with a fine point sharpie is a very good idea though. I've had meh results with using curved lexan scissors tho. 

YMMV. 

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Compass cutting has been a game changer from my previous attempts and had only ended up with square shaped wheel arches, it was well worth the very small investment to get round arches.

The score and snap works reasonably well for me, and then a trim in the hard to score areas with curved scissors.

I've found they have improved the more I've done and taking a bit more time on them gives a better result.

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21 hours ago, Willsls1 said:

Going to try that Olfa cutter on my next one and see how that pans out.

As said, i found it saved me a lot of pain and grievances  - even with scissors, i always found arches frustrating; end up with 1 good and 3 *******, or 3 good and 1 *******.

The only recommendation with the compass cutters, are a) practice if you can first and b) as with score and snap technique, do multiple runs/scores - after which you can just peel around (or snap).

Oh, and with practice i mean in terms of learning what pressure is needed. The last thing you want is for you to get half way around a score, or after multiple scores, and have the needle slip from the centre point of the arch, and you all of a sudden score all of the shop

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I never rough the inside of a polycarbonate body because it would make cleaning up mistakes harder. It's very very rare on a multi-colour body that I don't have to remove at least a little bit of overspray or a few bleeds.

If you leave the inside smooth, any paint job can be fixed perfectly, at any stage.

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I tried the score and snap method on Jconcepts sandslash. I wasnt confident on using it for the final lines but it served well to remove the unneeded parts of the shell. It made things much easier to remove provided I scored it deep enough. I will still use scissors and Drexel for the final lines but score and snap has it's uses when preparing the body.

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