Jump to content
ThunderDragonCy

Iconic Stock TT01E Racer - The slowest car i own

Recommended Posts

Another part of the Super Stock class upgrade puzzle arrived - a Yeah Racing oil filled differential for the rear. In the constant quest to get more planted feel and traction out of the TT01E rear end!

20210525_175237

Came up for a good price NIP in the UK - certainly much cheaper than the Tamiya TT02 oil filled diff which seems to have a bit of a rep for leaking. Hopefully this is better. Its certainly much bigger, with much chunkier and more substantial looking parts and gaskets than I'm used to working on TB03 and TA06 diffs. 

20210525_180024

Crown gear down. Associated Green Slime on the o-rings and outdrives.

20210525_181836

And all done. I built it with Core RC 3000cst oil as the instructions recommend 3000 for low grip and 8000 for high grip. I always err on the side of open with my oil filled diffs and I prefer the feel, and if it's still as wet as recently I'll need all the traction I can get! The parts are all reinforced plastic, the seals seem good, the casing has an o-ring and a gasket seal so hopefully it's good. It also comes with a spool locker block option and a reinforced prop shaft gear to use with it, plus some blades to fit over the end of the steel dogbones. Nice touches. 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Raced on Saturday in blazing sunshine. Not used to hot tracks in the uk! There were a lot of grip, which really made car reel squishy and lazy. Had a bit of a scrappy first race running 32s front and rear, but did ok with a solid 13 lapper. I had one set of schumacher 34 contacts so those went on the front for race 2. That was going better. Fewer mistakes, but halfway through my car went into limp mode as it had dome last week in the rain. One of the lads said it was probably overheating, and i was running the 28/55 gearing which was noticeably quicker on the straight than anyone else. I finished the heat and checked and the esc was burning hot. I had a fan on the motor but not the ESC. I did a quick pinion change back to the 25t i had in my spares, quick shakedown whilst the buggies were racing and all was well. 

Race 3 and away we went, and i was finally sensible. I was off last, but quickly caught people, but i just stayed patient in the infield, waited for mistakes or to get past on the straight. Also the lower top speed was way more manageable and i found the fast uphill sweeper into 90 deg right at the top of the circuit much easier. I didn't get marshalled once, made one mistake which i caught and carried on, and did my second ever 14 lap heat! Only this time it was solid rather than skin of my teeth. 308sec (we race for 300 sec) for 14 laps, which put me right up there on the FTQ in 3rd overall on the day. Super happy and went home well pleased. Sometimes slow is fast..... 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Decided relatively last minute to race this week. It was an evening race to fit in around the national Iconic series round being held at the club this weekend. This meant three things - firstly the track was about as fast, grippy and clean as it will ever be after a full day of practice for the national events cars. One of my clubmates ran 80 laps at least during the day! Secondly, the club had added temporary rubber track limits and kerbing for the event which meant at one corner at least, where normally you can just overshoot onto the concrete apron, last night you would hit a barrier. Given it's one of the hardest corners technically on the track (uphill fast entry from a thread-the-needle slightly kinked straight to double apex 90-90 right) it was well to be cautious. It is the section in the bottom right of the pic closrst to the camera

20210619_203133

 

Finally, due to some of the on site iconic racers joining in, there would only be three rounds due to TEN (!) heats per round. 

A quick shakedown on the Rush32s showed good grip but a lot of steering, but a run on the Contact34 showed considerably less grip and a lot of understeer. It was dry, but overcast and only 14 deg last night, so much cooler than we have been used to in the recent afternoon races, so i stuck with the 32s.

I was in with some of the fastest lads from my club in my heat, which made me nervous, but was actually brilliant, because they are all so good and clean that i could just crack on with my driving rather than have too much traffic trouble. I had a pretty good first heat. I got into a rhythm, wasn't making too many mistakes and didn't need to get marshalled until right near the end when i got sucked down into the bottom of the banked 180 and the exit bump spin me. This highlighted an issue which has been growing since my speed and the heat has increased - the rear of the car feels increasingly unsettled and wayward in the bumps. I had increased the rear damper oil to 400 from 300, but it still lacked confidence through the key fast sweeper, and as my spin showed, it wasno catching me out. Unfortunately the hit and stop put my car into limp mode again which was unbelievably frustrating, because it was cool and not silly geared, yet the esc was still really hot at the end. Given i was so close to the end i ran around to the finish, with the beeper going just before i crossed the line. Felt a bit annoyed as this usually signals a just-missed 14 lapper, but i was fairly happy with my run. At the time i felt i made a lot of mistakes, but apart from the final one none cost much time and it's just in comparison to the guys i was racing with who are just ridiculously consistent. Anyway, i checked my race time and it turns out i did a 14 lap heat in 325 sec, which means i actually just missed out on my first 15 lap heat. GAH! So frustrating! But very encouraging too. 

Between the heats i swapped in my spare ESC and swapped places with the Rx to the outside of the tub, and moved the wiring bundle to the middle to give clear air to the heat sink. Race 2 was a bit scrappy and crashy, but most annoyingly after a hit of the kerb the throttle stopped working. My car was pulled, i ran down to it and unplugged the battery, switched it on/off, plugged back in and switched on and it was running again, so i put it down and finished, but i am getting a bit annoyed with the lack of reliability in these 1060 ESCs. Is there a fan you can fit to them? 

For the final round, and to be honest feeling a bit over the TT01, I finally decided to give my FF01 a run. The guys I was racing with were super good, so i didn't have to worry about anything but my driving, and i wanted to mix it up a bit. Gave it a quick shakedown on Sweep32 and the steering felt great, but the fronts switched on really fast which left the rear floundering a bit. Given my only softer rear option was 24s, i decided to up the fronts to the contact34 which were definitely way less grip, but much more evenly balanced. And what a balance! Compared to the TT01 it felt so planted and just a joy to drive. Sure its slower through the fast sweeper section due to the gearing, but it's so planted and confidence inspiring through it that i was almost full throttle through the whole section, whereas the TT01 needs a fairly significant roll back on throttle to stop it from jouncing off the track through there. Clearly a stiffer TT01 setup might be in order, but for now, I popped the transponder in the FF01 and had so much fun. I was cautious in traffic as i didn't want to get in anyones way, but the pace was pretty good. My fastest lap was about 0.8 slower than the TT01, and i threw the car off the track at one point which was a shame as i was having a lot of fun running with a clubmate in his FF02. A solid 13 lap heat was the result, and it really feels like it had gone the other way with tyres with a 32/24 setup, or maybe to tweaked the rear shocks for more grip there will be some more time there. Unfortunately for my spares budget i am very keen to run the FF01 again! Here it is ready to race, with my mate Tom's (very fast) FF02 just parked up in front

20210619_205015

Not racing again until july, but by then i should hopefully have some caster c hubs for the FF01, and i need to work on the setup on the TT01. 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did the Iconic meeting there at the weekend, my first visit, stock class with my TT01e so only a couple of mods allowed, great track, jump hilarious and loved the banked 180. Some of the curbs a bit evil though.

My car was great in Saturday PM practise and then rounds 1 and 2 of qualifying. I stupidly then messed with the diffs and it was a disaster for Q3 and only vaguely ok for Q4. Got TQ on count back, 15 laps on a 306 I think. The final it was still having some random issues at the back and one grip roll which cost me the win. Came down to the last corner, I tried but the gap wasn't quite big enough. Fun race, wish there had been 2 finals though.

 

The 1060 in my TT01 has been ok but I put one in my M05 at the same time a couple of months ago and that with a Tamiya Torque Tuned kept tripping the low voltage and going into limp mode. A common issue with them it seems. I have since put both into nimh jumper setting despite running lipos (I charge after every run) and so far been ok. Not had any cutting out or excessive temperature that I've noticed other than from my V3 motor at Iconic round 1 but it was a blisteringly hot day!

204914419_10157837918376373_8048625219152731752_n.jpg

204127923_10157837916851373_5873373229253580204_n.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Next evolution - new tub so i can replace the stripped out holes with tapped machine screws and TT01D B parts for better lower arms. 

20210630_172055

Will still be Super Stock spec rather than full GT. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Next evolution - new tub so i can replace the stripped out holes with tapped machine screws and TT01D B parts for better lower arms. 

20210630_172055

Will still be Super Stock spec rather than full GT. 

What differences are there in the lower arms?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Toad16v said:

What differences are there in the lower arms?

Two shock mounting options for lower ride height, inner hinges are steel pins which are smoother with less slop. They aren't reinforced material or anything, but nice hop up because i am racing. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice write up, makes me want to race again :-)

Have you tried or indeed are you allowed the low friction suspension balls for the TT-01/02 part# “Tamiya 54559 TT-02 Low Friction Suspension balls x 4”

They made a huge difference to my TT02, it makes the suspension work so much smoother.

I also have the bottom drift arms and they come with down stop adjusters, these should also help you with the jump allowing the car to settle quicker. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another Saturday another race. This week I swapped to a new tub which allowed me to start fresh with some tapped holes for machine screws where self tapped threads in the original tub had stripped or got damaged, mainly around the top deck attachments. These screws get a lot of use on a TT01E if you're racing it as you have to pull it off every time you want to access the drivetrain to changed gearing or adjust the diffs.

 

I also added the upgrade arms from the TT01D which are stiffer and have an extra outboard shock mounting position. I set the car up using these positions to stiffen it up, but with my short M-Chassis 50mm dampers it did also much reduce the droop. I'm still running the TRF reinforced V-Parts long eyelets on the front to get 52mm eye to eye and this seemed OK, but with 50mm setup on the rear there was almost no droop. As I have used my other set of long eyelets elsewhere I took to unscrewing the bottom eyelet 4 turns each. I set it up with 6.5mm ride height rear, 7mm front. What I also did was move to the medium gold springs from the TRF Short Spring Set 2 that I got for the short dampers. The hard white fronts were already installed.

 

My theory here is that since I have added toe in rear uprights with a bit of camber and lower roll centre, plus the oil filled rear diff, the rear of the car has calmed right down compared to the stock setup. I went from needing 300 oil and the soft red M Chassis rear springs, with softer rear tyres than fronts early on in the year to same tyres all round, 400 oil (still 500 front), and the soft black springs from the Short Spring Set 2 – which is two steps softer than the front. Whilst this has given me a generally great race car for Broxtowe's tight and twisty infield, the fast sweeper to uphill “jump” after the home straight to 90 deg right has had me being really cautious as my speeds have increased with the installation of the cup motor. It's very bumpy, and due to the long front overhang of the 911 body I have to run quite a high front end other the shell catches the tarmac on the transition up the hill and has been known to pitch me off. However, it's mainly the soft rear end that slows me down. It's noticeably bouncy and unsettled over the bumpy run and 'corkscrews' under the high speed cornering load. I figured with the improved rear setup, and the wider front shock stance which further increased the effective stiffness of the front (wider shock mounts give less leverage over the shock, so for a given spring rate the wider mount is effectively stiff at the tyre), if I could get away with the medium rear spring it would calm the rear down through the high speed section without compromising the rest of the lap too much. My current record at BMCC is 14 laps in 308 seconds. If my ESC hadn't failed the other week I was on for a 15 lap heat, and plenty of guys are running 15s in TT01s now, but when I watch those fast cares on track when marshalling they look sooooo planted through the fast section. I'm definitely bleeding time there, but it is only one section of the track I suppose?

 

Anyway, yesterday we turn up and all this is out the window because the track is wet, but it's warm and drying. I stuck with my new outer hole shock position on my new arms, but went back to the soft rear spring for safety, and tried out my Sweep 24s, 32 front/24 rear, but by the time our heat came around there were definite dry patches so I rolled the dice and ran 32s front and rear. Turned out to be the right decision as the guys running wets really struggled, but whilst I found it a little slippery in places, I just dialled back the throttle and pace (I think I used full throttle about 3 times all race!) and kept it tidy. I came out with the win, which was very satisfying, but our championship positions are based on race times and 13 laps in 308 seconds is nothing to write home about, although it's nice to see the progression as I would have been over the moon with this time and a clean run 2 months ago!

 

It stayed dry and the track was getting better so I stuck with the setup. I improved by a couple of seconds (13 in 306) but I crashed quite a bit pushing harder, so was a little disappointed.

 

It was now really hot and the track was completely dry. I decided to put the medium rear springs back on. I gave it a quick run, and it seemed better through the fast stuff, but it randomly flipped as I turned in at speed and broke the rear wing. I figured I caught a stone, and needed to fix my shell, so didn't think anything of it......

 

Race 3 was a nightmare! The stiffer car was now super sensitive on the steering, and just felt edgy and not very confidence inspiring. I also started grip rolling, which I have never done before. I did a couple of times in exactly the same place that I broke my shell.....Seems that edginess and extra front end bite just took the car over it's limit. Far from being planted at speed I was now flipping myself randomly. It was blessed relief with the car failed about 10 laps in.

 

After a bit of investigation in the pit it turned out my battery lead solder had failed, so I was back in the game for Race 4. I didn't have time to change the springs, but I bolted on some 34 fronts to try and calm things down. Unfortunately it didn't help! Crashed a lot again, including my ESC coming loose. Managed to finish due to a helpful marshall, but I was very over it now and needed to get home so I left the lads to have their round 5 (they extended the rounds due to a low turn out).

 

So now I'm a bit flummoxed. I've asked a couple of the faster lads for some advice, but seeing how neat I can be when I dial it back a bit in the earlier races I'm almost tempted to throw in the towel and put the old arms and my torque tuned back in it! Almost.....

 

Having slept on it, I think I have a couple of options. Firstly, switch the rear back to the inboard shock hole, but try keeping the medium spring. This will be effectively softer than I was running yesterday, whilst still being a little stiffer than the bouncy setup from a couple of weeks ago. It will also give me some more droop at the rear. My other though is swiping the 55mm TRF dampers off my TB03R and seeing how they set up in the outer shock holes front and rear. The extra length might bring back some droop into the setup (which I seem to like), whilst still allowing me to run a stiffer setup.

 

One final thing that definitely wasn't helping. My car was veering off right under hard acceleration. It really knocked my confidence and definitely made me crash a few times in the thread the needle section of the track. I can't figure out what it is though. Both rear uprights are running smooth. It rolls straight off throttle. Any ideas? Maybe the gear diff isn't all that? I could put the old kit diff back in I suppose.

 

Any thoughts or tips gratefully received!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Way too high, I was running around 5.5 f+r when there. Yes there are a couple of bumps but it's not a rough/bumpy surface like some other places. Having it high will make grip roll more likely. I had it a bit but was running too soft I think as it was late in the corner. Superglue the sidewalls not ideal but a fix. Most are running the lighter lower Mondeo shell whereas my Tamiya Impreza one is heavier and higher so not ideal but I don't want to change now, will just put up with it.

That first sweeper is tricky, I could take it flat or just a slight partial lift but the rear was getting a bit frisky. Could try wider hexes on the back to calm it a bit.

Veering off right sounds odd, if nothing is binding in the suspension (check with shocks off) then does point to the diff, yes try the kit ones again to narrow it down.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/4/2021 at 9:18 AM, ThunderDragonCy said:

...This week I swapped to a new tub which allowed me to start fresh with some tapped holes for machine screws where self tapped threads in the original tub had stripped or got damaged, mainly around the top deck attachments. These screws get a lot of use on a TT01E if you're racing it as you have to pull it off every time you want to access the drivetrain to changed gearing or adjust the diffs....

Please ignore these tips if you already know them.

When re-screwing a self tapper into plastic put the tip of the screw into the screw hole, apply very light pressure and screw out (anti clockwise) very slowly, when you feel the screw drop slightly, it is now in the exact right place to screw back down the exact path it came up out of so now screw in as normal. Its getting the seating right that is important when re-screwing into plastic

Now I know from experience in the heat of racing its not always easy to be calm and some times you just have to rush, but if you have time then you wont strip another thread from re-screwing self tappers.

Not a perma fix, but if you have a stripped thread then use thin - very thin - slices of the exact same or very similar plastic. Dropping them down the screw hole prior to re-screwing will give your screw something to bite into and provide a good fix at the track.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
40 minutes ago, dlruk said:

Way too high, I was running around 5.5 f+r when there. Yes there are a couple of bumps but it's not a rough/bumpy surface like some other places. Having it high will make grip roll more likely. I had it a bit but was running too soft I think as it was late in the corner. Superglue the sidewalls not ideal but a fix. Most are running the lighter lower Mondeo shell whereas my Tamiya Impreza one is heavier and higher so not ideal but I don't want to change now, will just put up with it.

That first sweeper is tricky, I could take it flat or just a slight partial lift but the rear was getting a bit frisky. Could try wider hexes on the back to calm it a bit.

Veering off right sounds odd, if nothing is binding in the suspension (check with shocks off) then does point to the diff, yes try the kit ones again to narrow it down.

Interesting. I have some new body posts with the TT01D parts so I'll put those on and raise the shell one notch and lower the height. I've been limited by trimmed posts on the original car which put the body very low once your'e at racing heights.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you are messing around too much with the car which is not giving you a consistent base to focus on your driving.

Since your club is running "open" TT-01 rules rather than Iconic ones you've been able to fit the rear toe in uprights which are the best way to fix the inconsistent rear grip on a TT-01

The rest should just be a case of settling on a tyre (and also tyre prep) and just focus on driving it.

Pulling randomly to the left is the kind of thing that starts happening if you mess about with the car all the time and re-assemble the car incorrectly without realising it.

I wouldn't run short shocks around Broxtowe, you need plenty of down travel for the jumps. I wouldn't even mess around with the shock positions. Standard geometry, standard length shocks and springs, toe in rear uprights, open rear diff (I have no idea what that Yeah racing diff is like but sometimes these third party diffs are not as smooth as you would expect), putty in the front diff should get you around the track.

Don't go mixing brands of tyres, they'll behave completely differently to one another. Try and find a set that gives enough rear end grip, and just get your lines right. You've already said you over-drive when you think you should be faster. So just drive neater. You will be surprised how much quicker you can go around the track if you just keep it tidy.

To be honest TT-01s are not very good cars and the people that make them go fast at Iconic Cup meetings are all very experienced and very talented. You would probably make more progress with a better platform, which needs less of the dark arts to get a good setup.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Despite trying a few things and going back to base setup i still couldn't get the car to stop pulling under power so instead of fighting it more i raced my TB03 and FF01 this week. I posted in the build threads for those. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you put the kit diffs back in though as it sounds like that or something binding, axle or bearing? Stafford for me this weekend just gone for the Iconic Cup round, car was great, TQ. Final was good but not as successful, over 4 mins I had 2nd place under a metre off me, eventually went a foot wide and he was past, great race and he deserved the win.

He said he was running same compound front and rear, if that's true then no idea how as I have to run softer on the rear else it is all over the place! Running that split compound etc meant it was nice and consistent ie laps 9-14 here :) http://rc-results.com/viewer/Main/DriverResult?raceId=38840&driverId=40155

 

PS: Just realised who you are as well, commented on a recent FB post of yours, off out on my bike tonight ;)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did and it was way more free spinning, but it still pulls a little. I haven't run it again because i enjoyed my other cars so much last week! 

Good work at Stafford. Paul McKeag posted on the club about the racing plus a video. You top TT01E guys are so fast!

Hope you a good ride 😉

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So now this chapter comes to an end. The TT01 has been sold to a club mate for the indoor season. It was fun while it lasted and very instructive, but the club let me race my tb03, and i have my ff01 and now a ta02 as options and they are just a little nicer to drive. I did find why it was being so random though. I put the servo in the ff01 and it started misbehaving. Turns out the servo saver was shot. I'm kind of glad, because i have happier feelings towards it again. 

This is our track

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/16/2021 at 8:36 PM, ThunderDragonCy said:

Following @Mad Ax example, i liked the idea of recording what i do with this car, but it's not really a build thread. For a start, i didn't build it! I bought it used off FB marketplace as i wanted to have a go at my clubs Iconic class. I am still new to racing, and up to now have raced in my clubs top 17.5 touring class with hopped tamiya tub chassis - not very good eith a TA06, much better with my current TB03R. If i am honest i am a bit out of my depth and it's been as much frustrating as fun.

Our iconic class is fairly flexible, catering for most Iconic categories in a single heat at various points. However, recently a few of the really experienced guys started racing a sort of Spec Stock Class. The basis is the Iconic Stock rules allowing TL01, TT01 AND TT01E, running bearings, alloy prop, alloy wheel hexes, steering turnbuckles, tamiya speed tuned gears, metal motor mount, and proper shocks. Tyres are open, bodies must be scale touring car. This class uses the Team Powers 17t brushed motor at the national events. The sub-class they came up with was this car, but TT01E only, Torque Tuned motor, 25/58 gearing. 

Here is my entry

Iconic Stock Class Tamiya TT01E

Now strictly speaking this body isn't class legal (its a GT class shell), but as its scale and we are just having fun the club have ok'd it. I amvery glad because my initial plan to buy all new would have involved a lovely L and L models JACCS Accord body, which i would have loved, but cringed at smashing up at the track! The car came to me for £100 with this slightly pre-bashed 911 which is perfect track fodder. It was a bonus too, as although not mentioned in the advert, it came with bearings, said metal motor mount and alloy prop, and ball adjusters on the steering. I added an RW Racing 25t alloy pinion, 53665 Spur gear set for the 58t, a spare Trackstar 99x servo, spare TBLE02S ESC due to the low spec motor (i'll run a lipo alarm), my Core RC stick pack lipos, and my little treat from RCMart, the beautiful 54000 M Chassis 50mm long aluminium damper set built with 3 hole pistons and 400 oil, and 42168 Short Spring Set for tuning. 

Built up on saturday and set up with the hard blue front and yellow medium springs from the M-chassis damper set and worn Ride ETS tyres from my FF03. Few things i noticed

- the 50mm shocks get you to 5-6mm ride height, but with almost no droop.

- The body scraped on the floor until i trimmed it flat and flush all the way around. Clearly the regular setup is a fair bit higher! Some o rings on the body posts stopped it rattling and bought an extra couple of mm. 

- The 911 runs the short 251wheelbase a d wider rear track. I have 7mm wide hexes for the front and 11 for the rear with race wheels

First impression is it's fairly slow and a right handful! Lots of power oversteer if nailing the throttle with a lot of steering. Also the steering is super sensitive. I have a spare (fairly long) servo arm on and i have the dual rate turned right down. 

I switch springs to fully hardest 42168 front and softest red m chassis rear. It's better, but not right. Time to tinker.... 

Read up a bit and a stiffer front diff helps. I got the diffs out and they were full of goey grease. Cleaned most of that up, left the rear open, front got 3 blobs of 2 million oil. Still some diff action, but much slower. Not sure if it's within the rules, but i am sourcing some TT02 diffs as the plastic internals are much lighter, and that counts in a spec class. 

I wasn't happy with the lack of droop. I recently got the new TRF v parts for my other race dampers and spare on the new parts are longer eyelets - 2mm longer to be accurate. I put these on and they are now perfect. 5-6mm ride height is now nicely in the middle of the damper stroke and i have more scope to change the ride height with preload. And there is a good 4-5mm of droop front and rear. 

Finally tyres. The guys at the club mentioned they were running staggered tyres - harder at the front than back. Makes sense given the inherent balance. I dug out some very well used Sorex 32 front, 28 rear. 

This afternoon with some sunshine drying the road a gave it a run and it's so much better. Much less wayward, takes full throttle well. The springs were immediately wrong with decently balanced tyre grip and more shock movement. Working through i ended up with medium front and soft rear from the 42168 and it seems good. Still some roll through so i could see it needing to be harder at the track with more grip. 

Steering is still super sensitive. I ended up with the dual rate down to 40 and expo at - 40 and it still had plenty of lock and was still very sensitive off the straight ahead. I have ordered a short Kimbrough servo saver to reduce the throw (and add some crashability!) and i think some thicker 500 oil in the front shocks should help too. 

To be continued..... 

Sorry what do you mean by left the diff open?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Wetman said:

Sorry what do you mean by left the diff open?

As in I didn't put any grease in it to slow it down. Open as in completely free diff action. I didn't leave the lid off it - it was still fully assembled.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

As in I didn't put any grease in it to slow it down. Open as in completely free diff action. I didn't leave the lid off it - it was still fully assembled.

Thanks. I`ve seen others say it and that what I couldnt figure out. I was thinking if you leave it open the guts would fall out. So, I`ve actually done it right on mine then with just a light lubrication on the rear diff bevels and the 300000 silicone in the front diff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Wetman said:

Thanks. I`ve seen others say it and that what I couldnt figure out. I was thinking if you leave it open the guts would fall out. So, I`ve actually done it right on mine then with just a light lubrication on the rear diff bevels and the 300000 silicone in the front diff

Yup. Spot on. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...