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burakol

Dynahead

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Looks fabulous with those beadlocks. I would seriously consider getting some regular tamiya cva mini shocks. They have about twice the stroke of those alloy shocks. Those looks like rear shocks with a tonne of spacers in. Not ideal IMO. If you a set of 53619 and 50519 you will get exactly 6 shocks and you can use the kit springs on the 53619 shocks. You can use regular Tamiya ball screws and nuts to mount them for minimal slop. I had some on my briefly owned konghead and they felt great. 

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2 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

. If you a set of 53619 and 50519 you will get exactly 6 shocks and you can use the kit springs on the 53619 shocks. You can use regular Tamiya ball screws and nuts to mount them for minimal slop. I had some on my briefly owned konghead and they felt great. 

Not quite, for the centre upper ball connectors you need tamiya hex head type for fitment, for all the lowers I'd recommend upgrading to long 8mm type so they don't pull out of the arms.

All item numbers in my showroom entry

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Took the Dyna out for a test run... as always, it wasnt a trouble free experience... i think i got carried away and got ambitious... anyhow the rear servo horn came loose when I was trying to climb up the curb... so inside I go to remedy this... i know i read somehwere here in the forum that the rear servo was placed too high so thats what i tried to address... 

i didnt have any spacers in the bin but luckily, the leftover parts tree have an abundance of plastic that I was able to use...

as you can see here, the round plastic spacer is actually E11. I used two of those in conjunction with the spacer and used a longer tapping screw.. at first i was thinking of using a threaded rod all the way through the servo mount and secured by nuts on both ends... unfortunately, i did not have the supplies I need so I resolved with the parts below... i would say that the simple mod was a success and the new servo location gave more turning clearance for the rear steer... 

QBPIeO2.jpg
2NoatIc.jpg

zy694v2.jpg

next, i took the liberty of cutting the shell... ive always used an xacto knife for scoring the lines, but this time, i decided to use some lexan scissors... i think i need some more time in getting used to the scissor method... 

B4t2RDd.jpg
H0ame5t.jpg

Gr9nx9c.jpg

Do you guys notice the line on the front cab? O wonder if others have this line on their body shell??? It is not a crease or any damage, it just came like that and both sides have it... it probably from the molding... Hoepfully this line will not show once I paint the body... 

8R6YNkA.jpg

 

 

 

 

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21 hours ago, burakol said:

Took the Dyna out for a test run... as always, it wasnt a trouble free experience... i think i got carried away and got ambitious... anyhow the rear servo horn came loose when I was trying to climb up the curb... so inside I go to remedy this... i know i read somehwere here in the forum that the rear servo was placed too high so thats what i tried to address... 

i didnt have any spacers in the bin but luckily, the leftover parts tree have an abundance of plastic that I was able to use...

as you can see here, the round plastic spacer is actually E11. I used two of those in conjunction with the spacer and used a longer tapping screw.. at first i was thinking of using a threaded rod all the way through the servo mount and secured by nuts on both ends... unfortunately, i did not have the supplies I need so I resolved with the parts below... i would say that the simple mod was a success and the new servo location gave more turning clearance for the rear steer... 

QBPIeO2.jpg
2NoatIc.jpg

zy694v2.jpg

next, i took the liberty of cutting the shell... ive always used an xacto knife for scoring the lines, but this time, i decided to use some lexan scissors... i think i need some more time in getting used to the scissor method... 

B4t2RDd.jpg
H0ame5t.jpg

Gr9nx9c.jpg

Do you guys notice the line on the front cab? O wonder if others have this line on their body shell??? It is not a crease or any damage, it just came like that and both sides have it... it probably from the molding... Hoepfully this line will not show once I paint the body... 

8R6YNkA.jpg

 

 

 

 

Sadly it will. It’s the mould release line. Having said that some colours seem to show this kind of line better than others. 

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Good thing the shell did not require a lot os masking. It was also a plus that the window masks are already included so it saved me some time from making my own. One thing I would have wished for is a precut set of stickers... anyhow, after masking the cab windows, I started painting the shell... for this build, I just wanted to keep it simple and close to box art... 

because i am cheap and tend to use what I already have, I decided to use some Krylon spray paint. I know there has been failure/success stories when using non-conventional lexan/pc paint, but in my own experience, I haven’t had any problems with using rattle can paints from bigbox stores, or plasti dip spray paints... for this particular one, i had a matte gray in the tool box... once the protective outer film is removed, for sure the matte finish will eventually become glossy....

AVKYmXz.jpg
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i4mOlNK.jpg
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VI0LTim.jpg
 

Before the paint fully cured, I carefully remived the window mask. Notice that there are some paint bleeding... im hoping those will be covered once i put on the stickers, or I may have to do a black outline using a black sharpie marker to hide it...

LD7HWVe.jpg
also, if you will notice, i decided not to mask the areas where it should be sprayed with black paint... what I will do in the end is to again, just use a black permanent marker on the outside to save time... 

next will be stickers, and some lighting (hopefully)...

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Tested my new classroom SLA printer today... I found a roof rack from thingiverse that I remixed to size the roof cab of the Dynahead. I may to tweak it some more but my wife said it doesnt look off-scale so it might do for now... also, one light bucket needs to be reprinted.. took about 7hrs to print. I had to break it into halves in order to fit in the print bed... next, i have to design a mount for it...

JA2tmtB.jpgAbFBFoH.jpg
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IT1bQFb.jpg

also printed some tools and stuff that i found... it is supposed to be 1/10 scale but it looks a bit bigger... i may have to redo it next week...

CV2WC1L.jpg
 

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Got to do some tinkering today... 

Trying to do some DIY light bar... The light bucket was printed using an SLA printer. Design was taken from Thingiverse and was rescaled. I used some wrapping foil as light reflectors which was glued inside. Due to the round shape, I had to cut some slits on foil so it will curve once I press it in the light bucket. 

D1VTCPbm.jpg7Z3XAUMm.jpgRK4Wmlbm.jpg

For the lens cover, I was originally planning on using my FDM printer to print some clear lens but I remembered I have a stack of transparent book covers I used when I 3d printed face shields... Traced the shape of the light bucket and was cut to just about the size of the edge... 

y2sEFdhm.jpg

After completing all four lights, it was test mounted... 

8RWP1ebm.jpgksrPhDCm.jpg

The four LEDs are nothing but a generic 5mm LEDs. In order for it not to burn out, I used 2 82ohm resistors wired in parallel given me a final value of 41ohm. The LEDs are then wired in parallel and the resistor on one end given me a voltage of about 2.8-3v across each light. 

dPLVeSAm.jpg

Once my FDM printer is back in action, I will probably print a rear bed cage next and design a front bumper/skid plate... then create more light buckets for the front and rear set of lights... 

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So I got bored with the dull, primer like looking paint and decided to strip it off... Not really ideal and took me one weekend to complete... I did use some nitro fuel and it worked wonders paired with a lot of manual labor... I just ordered some Tamiya PS-63 (box art color)... I've also come up with some ideas on how to mount the LEDs that I plan on installing... in the process of cutting the light holes, I inadvertently damaged the front of the shell, so I need to be reinforcing that as well as I progress... 

GUuqHAB.jpg

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I also tried to design a simple rear bed cage... the idea is to mount a spare tire to add a little more rear weight... hopefully it will not be too top heavy and end up toppling over when I run out... but we'll see... 

YRsF5Oy.jpg

Since incurring damage on the front shell when I cut a hole, I decided not to cut out the plastic in the rears and maybe just use it as the "lens" for the rear LED lights... I modified the front light bucket a bit so the idea is to just glue this in place on the inside shell... 

OGEI5T1.jpg

As of the moment, I am trying to figure out how to wire the LEDs and how to program the light controller that I got from LaneBoys RC. Next, once the paint comes in, I will go ahead and spray the body with the new color and affix the light buckets and do the lights... then I can probably put on the stickers and call it done... 

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Sorry, I have not been able to update this thread... after a week or so, I am still building the Dynahead. I re-sprayed a new paint using the PS-63 gunmetal color. Re-did the rear bed cage and roof rack. I also started installing LED lights... 

So here is the new roof rack and bed cage. I thought the first printed part was a little big, so I scaled it down a bit. 

u0EsM2Ym.jpg

Since I thought paying $25 for the Tamiya Hop-up front skid plate, I wanted to see if I can design my own. For this design, I simply used the front bumper mounting hole. Not sure if I should have shortened the length but I have to see if the skid guard will interfere when used as a light crawler. 
pFIot5nm.jpgCi5Z305m.jpg

Here are some of the LED lights I've been working on for the past 3 days... 

I would say that the light buckets I made were spot on...The problem is in my cutting skills... 

I've only wired the left side so far... 

Here's a photo of the low-beam as well as the park lights underneath... the idea is to actually light up the lower section with 6 LED bulbs acting as the park lights, and the outermost bulb will also be used as the turn signals... 
iyRsJrlm.jpg

Here we have the hi-beams on one side... 
2KYlNIXm.jpg


And for the rear, I opted not to cut the plastic like what I did on the front... I didn't want to weaken the plastic shell like what happened to the front... I did punch 4 holes in the middle so I can put a third brake/rear fog lights and reverse lights. 

lHWDgZ4m.jpgCUEBZuvm.jpg

I tried my best to make the wiring neat and tidy, but obviously there's a lot more room for improvement. I'm not really proud on the outcome of how I routed the wires, but hey, this is my first time doing this... as you can see, I tried to reinforce the front shell with some Drywall tape and silicone. It does seem to work ok, but the problem is, the hotglue I used to attache the light bucket/box won't stick as well compared to the areas without the silicone... 
KPqPLPjm.jpglmsi8Umm.jpg

And here is the brain for all these light functions... Yes, I could have opted to buy those ready made LED kits to avoid the need for wiring my own bulbs, but their functionality is limited. For almost the same cost (less the cost of the LED bulbs and wires), using the light controller developed by Lane Boys RC (the same guy who found the LiPo mod for the TBLE-02S), is way better and more realistic. If you have not seen how his light controller works, you should watch the video below. What's best is that he also shared all that is needed in case you wanted to create your own light controller from scratch... although I am not as skilled in programming and creating microchips, etc. as others here, it is fortunate that Werner (Lane Boys RC) has some pre-made light controllers that he was able to send me for about $20USD shipped from his home in Singapore... 
B40aYz5m.jpg 

 

I'm hoping that by this weekend, I have completed wiring all the lights, including the light bar on the roof rack so I can spray the inside shell with some Black Plastidip to at least hide the hideous wiring and cover the light bleed... then after, I have to attached the bed cage and put decals on... 

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I think I am done with the LEDs. Here’s a test video on the light functions. Really pleased on the features of this light controller from Laneboys RC. 
 

Hoepfully on my next lighting project, it will be a much cleaner work. 

Next up, decals. 

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It's been fun reading through this. One of these days I'll start my King Yellow. I might need to get one of those light controllers, they look great.

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