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Teddy Ruckspin

Top force gear allternatives

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Hi, does anyone know of and alternative spur gears to run in a top force or any where in the UK where I can get in machined in steel, i don't want to keep buying whole gear sets, thanks :).

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Do you mean the kit standard aluminium idler and spur part that fixes to the larger plastic bevel gear or are you having issues with the plastic gears?

If its the former, then the best upgrade is to get rid of the aluminium gear and replace it with the one piece plastic gears from the MantaRay / Ta02 (Tamiya 300050529 part number)

If its the plastic gears themselves that you are wanting to replace then its very unlikely steel replacements for these exist without you having to draw them up and getting a custom set of gears machined as they need couterbores for the bearing races etc and as these would be a one of i imagine very very expensive.

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28 minutes ago, Superluminal said:

Do you mean the kit standard aluminium idler and spur part that fixes to the larger plastic bevel gear or are you having issues with the plastic gears?

If its the former, then the best upgrade is to get rid of the aluminium gear and replace it with the one piece plastic gears from the MantaRay / Ta02 (Tamiya 300050529 part number)

If its the plastic gears themselves that you are wanting to replace then its very unlikely steel replacements for these exist without you having to draw them up and getting a custom set of gears machined as they need couterbores for the bearing races etc and as these would be a one of i imagine very very expensive.

I've already got the plastic gears, gonna have to get some custom made :unsure:

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1 hour ago, Teddy Ruckspin said:

I've broken the 50529 gears twice, somehow with just a sport tuned motor

Then there MUST be something wrong with the setup. The Top Force can handle a lot more than a Sport Tuned. Getting a steel gearset made without first identifying what's breaking the plastic gears will just transfer the force somewhere else causing breakage there instead. Check your pinion mesh, and check that the rear gearbox cover is not loose and jamming the gears together on acceleration/deceleration.

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The rear gearbox cover can lift if too much torque is applied, causing the gears to slip.  You can reinforce it by removing the self-tapping screws from the rear gearbox cover, drilling out the screw hole in the gear casing, and adding a longer machine screws with nuts on the end.

I'm surprised you have this issue with a Sport Tuned, I've been running brushless in a racing Top Force and not broken a gear set in a while.  Are you doing a lot of jumps or driving it like you would a Traxxas?  Tamiyas prefer a bit of mechanical sympathy ;) 

What motor mount are you using?  The standard plastic mount is prone to cracking, this will make your pinion slip on the spur.  There are various alloy options out there but compare the parts closely before swapping over, as the alloy ones often don't have the markings telling you which way around it should be fitted and they are not as symmetrical as they initially look ;) 

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I have a top force with a 3.5t team wave brushless motor in it, I've broken eveything on it except the gears...

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On 4/11/2021 at 6:53 AM, Teddy Ruckspin said:

I've broken the 50529 gears twice, somehow with just a sport tuned motor

What exactly gets broken? The teeth on the spur? The teeth on the counter gear? Something else?

I used to race my top force with an 11 turn brushed motor and no gearbox reinforcement, on tracks with jumps, and never had any problems with the gears, let alone any broken ones. I broke an aluminium prop shaft once, and bent some titanium rear damper mount screws, but never gears. 

Like the other members have suggested, it sounds like you've got an issue somewhere else causing your breakages. Are you using an aftermarket aluminium motor mount? Have you made sure you are using the correct mounting holes for the chosen pinion? Are you using the 'modified' motor mount, which allows the use of larger pinions to the original/standard version? (in this case, the mounting hole positions are not the same as the standard one)  

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Good idea to check the motor Mount... as likewise not sure what the nature of the issue is exactly. I have a quite a few top force, manta rays etc and run range of mild to hot motors. The plastic gear set and steel pinion with some of the gear box mods really sorts out any issues. The only issue I’d see is using a rear ball diff- some of the metal quality on the splines isn’t so good and they strip even with a little locktite. I have some older ones on top force evo and they have been fine tho!

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I'm using a yeah racing motor mount TA01-013BU, its the teeth of the spur gear that gets damaged, its also got the manta ray diffs as they are supposed to be more reliable.

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3 hours ago, Teddy Ruckspin said:

I'm using a yeah racing motor mount TA01-013BU, its the teeth of the spur gear that gets damaged, its also got the manta ray diffs as they are supposed to be more reliable.

If you're stripping the teeth of the spur gear with a sport tuned (and not driving full speed into solid walls, or landing huge jumps with the throttle on full) then I suggest there's either something wrong with the motor mount, or you've mounted the motor in the wrong holes for the chosen pinion size, or you've got the wrong pitch pinion gear. 

Which pinion are you using, what pitch, how many teeth and in which holes are you mounting the motor?

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I'm using a Carisma M40DT slipper pinion 20t , the pitch looks identical to the Tamiya pinion its in the 20t mounting whole. next to each other they look identical

Picture1.png

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OK, I'm struggling to find any specific data for the M40DT pinion, but if I browse on Modelsport (who conveniently sort their pinions by pitch), the Carisma SCA1E pinions are listed as 48dp.  So it's entirely possible the M40DT pinion is also 48dp.  The top force uses mod 0.6 (metric) gears, although the size is very close to 48dp it's not a perfect match.  You can often persuade a 48dp pinion to work with a mod 0.6 spur, but you need to set the mesh a little closer.  That's fine on a car with an adjustable motor mount but no good on a Top Force which has fixed positions.  It's possible your slipper is actually doing more harm than good.  It's hard to tell from the photo as it's too small to get any detail on the tooth shape.

RW Racing make plenty of pinions on mod 0.6 size ( https://www.modelsport.co.uk/pinion-gears/rc-car-categories/9920/992050&MSAttributeID[41]=647 )

Also double-check the Yeah Racing motor mount is installed the right way around.  It doesn't have the little triangle tab to show you which way to install it.  If you pop out the motor mount, you should find one of the threaded tubes is slightly longer than the other.  If you've got it the wrong way round, the mesh may not be quite right, the pinion won't be fully engaged over the spur gear and also the mount itself could twist in the plastic, making the mesh uneven.  I can't remember which way is the right way to install it, so check the length of the tubes on your YR mount to the length of the tubes on your standard motor mount, if you still have it.

:)

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