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wtcc5

wtcc5's Thunder Shot buggy family

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10 minutes ago, ruebiracer said:

Sounds great! You can use any real chrome piston rod from other models. I think I used Wild one rods in my Monster beetle, if I remember correctly.

You can measure the length, and type this length in the Modellbau seidel search function, which is really good. Then there should popp off some piston rods in the desired length! 

Found it! It is 19805917: Wild Dagger piston rod 47mm

Modellbau Seidel seems to be not motivated anymore. Many parts and/or parts numbers are not shown anymore. Tamico is better at the moment. It would be a shame if Seidel will shut down, because this shop was/is a blessing for us enthusiasts.

This number for example didn’t show up with the „47mm“ search...

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1 hour ago, wtcc5 said:

Modellbau Seidel seems to be not motivated anymore. Many parts and/or parts numbers are not shown anymore. Tamico is better at the moment. It would be a shame if Seidel will shut down, because this shop was/is a blessing for us enthusiasts.

I noticed that as well and I am asking myself what is going on there. Even parts that are clearly available from Tamiya (even simple things like colors, e.g. PS-30, XF-56) are not even listed anymore. Not just marked as "out of stock" but they do not show up in the search at all anymore. I hope this is a temporary thing. Their item descriptions and search is great and the amount of things they have (or had) in stock was also great, particularly for older items. :-|

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Yes Kevin, strange what Seidel does at the moment! They also take out things they don´t trade anymore. So VQS will lead to nearly nothing in their shop. Somehow dumb, to sell the kits but no spare parts afterwards. 

I say this, because they had a note on the VQS to not stock any parts on them. Strange!:ph34r: My favorite shops in Germany were always and still are Tamico and Seidel.

But I heard and can see, that Tamico owners are more wholeheartedly Tamiya enthusiasts...

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ed74b292-2b42-46ce-a49jbc.jpeg

 

I finished the body ^_^ Buggy bodies are so much faster and easier to do than touring cars.

 

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The body itself sits a bit high in front. I really would like a second one, to place it lower in front and do a custom color, but they are not available... This will also be a problem if I want run it. I got a second Terra Scorcher body, should I run it instead of the fire dragon body?

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A 1150 ball bearing works perfectly fine instead of splashing out on thrust ball bearings as an option.

The notchy gears on these rere's I just ploughed through by running and eventually they smooth out by themselves which does present another issue. The initial increased vibration loosens shock flange nuts and wheel nuts so a dab of threadlock will keep them from coming off, mine all good now after I did this.

A good tip is to replace all the screw pins with steel shafts, the four top arm ones are the most important, one 22mm shaft needs to be shortened though to work (in my showroom).

Looking forward to the thunder dragon coming!

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1 hour ago, taffer said:

A 1150 ball bearing works perfectly fine instead of splashing out on thrust ball bearings as an option.

The notchy gears on these rere's I just ploughed through by running and eventually they smooth out by themselves which does present another issue. The initial increased vibration loosens shock flange nuts and wheel nuts so a dab of threadlock will keep them from coming off, mine all good now after I did this.

A good tip is to replace all the screw pins with steel shafts, the four top arm ones are the most important, one 22mm shaft needs to be shortened though to work (in my showroom).

Looking forward to the thunder dragon coming!

Thank you!

What were the 52mm shafts for, you mentioned in the showroom? 4x48.5mm for the arms and 4x22mm shafts for the camber links are enough, right?

 

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Tamiya 53301 (needed for 48.5mm shaft)

Installed at lower inner left position

1x 1mm spacer required

The tamiya plastic molding is shorter on inner left so just one shaft here

 

2x Tamiya 54695 (needed for 3x 52mm shafts), these are for the other three lower inner arms 

4x 1mm spacers required for front

2x 1mm spacer and 1x 2mm spacer for rear

 

After hundreds of hours runtime on my original thundershot runner you only need to do the upper inner arm mounts which helps the stress on the gearbox mouldings

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@taffer: Thanks for the clarification! Please allow one more question from my side:

I just measured the four inner lower armmounts and came to the conclusion that 3x48,5mm shafts fit perfect without shims on three corners. Only the right rear needs the 52mm shaft.  I guess you chose the longer shafts, because of the A5-strengthening-part in front?

 

48,5mm shaft on the front left side:

0e9942a7-8756-40c7-a4ak00.jpeg

 

Thanks for the input :)

 

Edit: I visited RCmart and found some nice tuning parts. As they already come with the shafts it makes this topic easier ^_^

bildschirmfoto2021-04dbkj4.png

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2 hours ago, wtcc5 said:

@taffer: Thanks for the clarification! Please allow one more question from my side:

I just measured the four inner lower armmounts and came to the conclusion that 3x48,5mm shafts fit perfect without shims on three corners. Only the right rear needs the 52mm shaft.  I guess you chose the longer shafts, because of the A5-strengthening-part in front?

 

48,5mm shaft on the front left side:

0e9942a7-8756-40c7-a4ak00.jpeg

 

Thanks for the input :)

 

Edit: I visited RCmart and found some nice tuning parts. As they already come with the shafts it makes this topic easier ^_^

bildschirmfoto2021-04dbkj4.png

Those 3 items from RCMart, I ordered the top 2,  I got 4 shafts with the A5, are those extra parts or for the othe arms? I'm also wondering if I need the 3x22mm 4pc shaft for the TD.

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If you don't install the four 22mm shafts (one needs to be cut down to fit) then after a period of time the upper mounts (gearboxes) will start to split, it's no a huge disaster because mine split years ago and are still running ok.

In the same situation when you add some jumps into the mix it may accelerate these areas breaking......at a minimum it should enable these parts to last longer.

Regarding why I chose the slightly longer shafts is when I installed the 48.5mm ones I felt most were too tight and the eclip might just ping off under flex and stress so I felt it was better to attach with as least stress as possible....

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@taffer: Thanks again for your insights on this topic :)
 

My two cars of this buggy series:
 

d3f004c7-693c-4eaa-9o1k0z.jpeg

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1 hour ago, taffer said:

If you don't install the four 22mm shafts (one needs to be cut down to fit) then after a period of time the upper mounts (gearboxes) will start to split, it's no a huge disaster because mine split years ago and are still running ok.

In the same situation when you add some jumps into the mix it may accelerate these areas breaking......at a minimum it should enable these parts to last longer.

Regarding why I chose the slightly longer shafts is when I installed the 48.5mm ones I felt most were too tight and the eclip might just ping off under flex and stress so I felt it was better to attach with as least stress as possible....

Thank you for the reply, looks like I got 50mm (total length) long 4x shafts with the A5. Will these still be tight? Its around 47mm from between the c clip grooves. B8 shafts are 48.5mmtotal length.

so the 52mm shafts are "Tamiya Stainless Steel Shaft w/ Aluminum Support Bridge For GF01 WR02" 2x?

Looks like the 22mm shafts are on my to buy list now. is it safe to presume the 1mm spacers are M3 washers?

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You'll have to try and see, it's been a while since messing with lower shafts, I only do upper shafts now...

Yes the 52mm are from the wr-02 bridge kit.

Yes you could use multiple 3mm washers as spacers, I have done so recently, prices keep creeping up on everything so 3mm washers are a much cheaper alternative

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1 hour ago, taffer said:

You'll have to try and see, it's been a while since messing with lower shafts, I only do upper shafts now...

Yes the 52mm are from the wr-02 bridge kit.

Yes you could use multiple 3mm washers as spacers, I have done so recently, prices keep creeping up on everything so 3mm washers are a much cheaper alternative

thank you for the reply. so 1mm play should be enough in the shafts and still keep the pins in? i cant say if its too tight yet as the kit isnt in yet to see the actual fit.

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9 hours ago, wtcc5 said:

@taffer: Thanks again for your insights on this topic :)
 

My two cars of this buggy series:
 

d3f004c7-693c-4eaa-9o1k0z.jpeg

Call me old fashioned guys,

but I think the Fire dragon needs a driver now!:lol: Would really set it up a bit more. As I already said in another thread, the TS in the lighter blue looks superb!:)

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6 hours ago, nel33 said:

thank you for the reply. so 1mm play should be enough in the shafts and still keep the pins in? i cant say if its too tight yet as the kit isnt in yet to see the actual fit.

Yes, if you have ever built a df-03 the play in the shaft pins there were huge by tamiya!😁

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1 hour ago, ruebiracer said:

Call me old fashioned guys,

but I think the Fire dragon needs a driver now!:lol: Would really set it up a bit more. As I already said in another thread, the TS in the lighter blue looks superb!:)

I haven’t forgotten the driver ;)

Maybe I can finish the driver figure today. Unfortunately Tamiya just added the flat dust cover without arms and steering wheel forms... Ok Tamiya, I will do it myself then -_-

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7 hours ago, taffer said:

Yes, if you have ever built a df-03 the play in the shaft pins there were huge by tamiya!😁

A DF03 isn't among my collection so the TD, TA02 will be my first installation of suspension pins. 

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10 minutes ago, Frog Jumper said:

Ooo!  Where did you find those???

Terry

Found it on Ebay France a week ago. Was surprised and happy :)

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34 minutes ago, wtcc5 said:

Found it on Ebay France a week ago. Was surprised and happy :)

Dang Frenchies...

Terry

 

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Sobb'n Stevy has taken over the seat in my Fire Dragon. I hope he doesn't crash it right away :D

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I now understand why the cockpit is not the same as in the Terra Scorcher: The Fire Dragon has a (ultramodern :lol:) cap forward design. This would make the driver invisible/sit too far behind. As I didn't want to make a hole in the roof, I sanded the driver body down (to make the driver sit lower) and glued it to the front of the dust cover. The steering wheel is a mold rest (what is the word for the "mold-frame"). And then I painted both.

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Sobb'n Stevy better not crash his car otherwise he will be crying, he looks like he's already going 100MPH already.

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