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silvertriple

Marui Hunter(s) and a Galaxy RS too

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On 5/6/2021 at 1:06 PM, yogi-bear said:

my printer got installed this afternoon. It too about 3 hours to get it out of the box and being able to be turned on. Tomorrow the techs come back and finish it off, so I should have some sample Hunter decals by the afternoon. I'm keen to see how the white ink prints.

Saw your printer in another thread. It looks nice! Curious to see the results of your tests...

I have found an Marui-024 pinion Gear set in a shop in California, and luckily, they ship as well. They are looking to find the other part I've ordered at the same time which seems to be lost at the moment. I've ordered on last Monday on that site randomly appearing on a FB group i'm registered in unrelated to Marui. The guy contacted me yesterday to ask for a few more days to allow time to find it as it is not where they expected... Time will tell.

I've also ordered part on Shapeways, to be able to complete two Hunters. I included in the order a radio box cover. At least this should allow me to take some measurements and rebuild one specially if I can't find an original one.

Also started to look at options for shock tower reinforcement or reparation.

  • For a non broken chassis, I discussed with someone who added a metal sheet linking both shock towers. He is running his buggy time to time and did not break it yet (he did the modification more than 5 years ago and it is still there). The metal sheet is on the front of the shock towers and is cut to sit against the gearbox cover. The purpose is to allow to part some of the up forces when doing jump receptions.
  • for a broken chassis, I believe the best way is to cut the existing shock towers, and combine them with the gear box cover. The tricky this is how to find a way to fix this to the chassis, as I don't think the threads for the gearbox cover are enough to old against the up forces of jump reception: I will need to find a way to fix this at least on the side from under the chassis to have a chance to hold this against jump reception. If you have any idea to propose, please tell me :-)

 

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yeah, fixing those rear shock towers will be tricky. I think removing the existing ones and then using some sort of angled metal bar to give support would be the easiest. Maybe two pieces of angle that sit either side of a shock tower piece that spans the rear, all bolted together. And instead of screwing into the exiting holes, enlarge slightly and bolt through for additional support. You could do that relatively easy in aluminium. The rear screw holes match up with two of the screws that hole the base of the gear cover underneath, so extra long bolts there. Or a slight variation, since I have a milling machine, I wouldn't mind trying one day to machine a complete gear cover and shock tower in one piece out of an aluminium block.

Monday now for white print samples. Went in this this morning for a quick print job, and then to do some test s and ended up getting more work pushed my way.

 

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10 hours ago, yogi-bear said:

yeah, fixing those rear shock towers will be tricky. I think removing the existing ones and then using some sort of angled metal bar to give support would be the easiest. Maybe two pieces of angle that sit either side of a shock tower piece that spans the rear, all bolted together. And instead of screwing into the exiting holes, enlarge slightly and bolt through for additional support. You could do that relatively easy in aluminium. The rear screw holes match up with two of the screws that hole the base of the gear cover underneath, so extra long bolts there. Or a slight variation, since I have a milling machine, I wouldn't mind trying one day to machine a complete gear cover and shock tower in one piece out of an aluminium block.

Monday now for white print samples. Went in this this morning for a quick print job, and then to do some test s and ended up getting more work pushed my way.

 

For today afternoon, I was expecting to have some products to be able to remove paint from the Hunter bodies. Unfortunately, it seems they messed up the delivery, and it may have been lost. 

Small unexpected delay, which gave me the time to think to your great remark on the traversing holes also used for the underside gearbox cover with the broken chassis in hands. I checked on the chassis and it really look like it is a very good option.

py5Ed5c.jpg

  • build a gearbox cover including the shock towers would be quite efficient as we can build it with enough matter in order to reinforce, and further, since it is also linked to the other side, it is also good for effort partitions.
  • traversing screws with nut with nylon to brake them should be strong enough for the efforts. those should be used both on the front and rear gearbox cover. A washer should be used as well on both side to reduce the effort on both top and bottom gearbox covers.
  • at the end, beside cutting the shock towers,  no modification  is required to the chassis

I will need to learn how to use Fusion360 or other similar tool (I would be able to do this on paper easily, but paper doesn't help to do 3D printing :-D).  Give me some time (a few weeks, or months :-D), and I'll have some files to share!

On side note, went to a track with my son this morning, and looking forward to have a Hunter running on the same track at some point!

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Other parts joined the pool of parts I have for the hunterS those last days:

OWuMgU8.jpg

  • 2 chassis. The one with the switch plate damaged is beside this in quite good shape. The other one have two holes in the rear of the gear box and as well one the thread dedicated to the motor mount is damaged (will need to see how I can work those out). And yes, those are black, which means they were Galaxy's chassis rather than hunter (but that is fine as beside the color, there is now difference between a Hunter iteration 2 chassis and a Galaxy chassis). I even like it in black. The first of the two chassis may become a runner..
  • gearbox covers in proper state, again from a galaxy (color is not identical to the Hunter, but that is again ok. We do with what we have).
  • motor mount, idle gear in proper state with very little signs of wear on the smaller gear, idle shaft, and idle shaft lock
  • driver figure (yeah!)

I'm still searching the radio box cover to have one complete Hunter. I saw there is one on ebay, likely damaged, and in any case, no shipping here and too expensive for the state it is...

Few printed parts from Shapeways (gearbox covers, idle gear with ball bearing buckets (for test, not sure how much they are solid), body mounts, idle shaft lock, body mount). The intent is to use those on a runner, not on a shelve one (except for the radio box cover if I can't find one).
Beside this, I also succeed to source few additional NIP parts:

  • Front arm set
  • Rear axle set
  • Front wheels
  • Suspension links

I decided to take those before I was able to unbuilt completely the second (broken) chassis. Taking into consideration of what I have at hands, I'm not very far to be able to build 2 Hunters, And few extra parts would be missing to be able to build a third one
dUlGiGC.jpg

Few learnings: when someone propose multiple NIP parts separately on a site, propose to take the whole is a very good option to get good prices... Specially when this is the last Marui parts the guy has to sell...

EDIT: Funny  and interesting thing, the Front Arm Set - Marui-019 is labelled "For Hunter" and not "For Hunter; Galaxy". The triangles have no damper mounts, like my original buggy... This bag production may have been anterior to the production of the Galaxy (perhaps the reason I got my hands on it now, by the way).

Now that I have brand new front wheels for the shelf queen, I will need to add new rear wheels to the list (I'm not sure I can get old tires that shiny with a resto, but on the other side, I may not be able to find NIP rear wheels)...

I got organized to get a box to do some body cleaning experiments and two bottles of Glanzer, as it could apparently do the job pretty well. If it doesn't work, that will be another story...

I'm still expecting few things to come, but the project could start, but I'll finish the in progress Super Hotshot build first...

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I received today the gears I was expecting to be potential replacement, but the mod is smaller than expected (it was not precised): Ricoh AB01-0174 is not an option. It's too small.

The Super Hotshot build is now finished, which means I the Hunter project is entering it its next phase: my work area is ready for the next build, which means active phase for the Hunter (I also need the room on the shelve where the Hunter is currently sitting to put the Super Hotshot. For next week-end, the plan is unbuild the first Hunter I received. I will be able to sort out parts based on their state and quality and decide what goes with each chassis and estimate how many Hunters I can actually build (if I want to do a third one, I'm already sure I'll be missing a motor mount and universal joints).

Further updates once the project starts...

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Hello everyone!

Operations started today.

I unbuilt the first chassis I found late April. The detail inspection is surprising : most of the screws are just like new. A very few of them are a slightly corroded. It confirms as well the assumption this buggy was very lightly used... That being said, it was probably stored on a shelve in a cave. Plastic parts will need a bit of cleaning, and as well I will need to find a way to remove the remains of the MSC structure...

 

I took a pic today after the end of the unbuilt. I intend to do another one with all the cleaned (or new parts) and the additional parts (the one which were missing at the time I started this thread). 

mmy5yK9.jpg

I won't start the cleaning now. That's the plan for next week-end, unless I find some time this week during an evening to get this started.

A+

Marc

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New day, new problem... Well, only the start of it, as I would be only able to sense how much it is a problem once I will have opened all the NIB parts (and there is still some on the way). It is about screws, nuts, spacers and washers

qawy5Wi.jpg

  • First they are all of a specific color (basically not what you would find on a Tamiya kit). Surprisingly the instruction manual mentions Philips screw driver - if it is really the case, that might be easier.
  • Second, while I know where to search for the washers, screws and nut in M2 and M3 (that is easy, although it might be difficult for the color), I'm not sur where to find the tapping screws: I can easily find tapping screws for wood, but is it the same as the one designed for plastic or ABS?

In any case, I should have a much better view once the first chassis will be mounted. I should have all the required screws to mount at least one. It will become more difficult for the second one (missing some tapping screws in 4x12 and likely some in 3)... For the third one, let's be clear, most of the tapping screws will be missing, a few spacers and probably some M2 and M3 screws, washers and nut (and a damper that I still need to source). What may save me is that all the NIB parts are coming with the required screws, nut, spacers and washers, saving me quite a few elements to search/source.

My approach :

  • Shelf chassis will be genuine Marui screws
  • Runner: I don't really care of the colors, I'll do with what I find.
  • Third one: let's check the state of the parts first after the cleaning. I may miss some spacers and other elements. but color screws is not that critical for this one as well

Key questions: is tapping screw a generic term for something else more precise in the screw specialists terms? Is a tapping screw for wood ok for plastic application (I believe it may not), but what should I look into for the specification? Any good option for Sourcing (Europe)?

Thanks

Images of 4x12 and 3x12 tapping screws for reference

E3gawNg.jpg

w4tefpT.jpg

x6h3rar.jpg

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New series of deliveries this week

bWIFyt9.jpg

Some NIPs:

  • Rear wheels
  • Pinion gear set (and an Idle gear). May be I should have ordered 2
  • Universal Join
  • Differential

Other parts in cluster brand new radio box cover an gear box covers

Another Motor Mount and some screws.

Still on the way : other screws and a NIP damper.

I should have everything to rebuild 3 Hunters, at the exception of the roll bar, rear bumper, and radio box cover, pilot and body shells and missing servo saver for one. I'll order some parts on Shapeways to complete the third Hunter, and will rely on a Tamiya servo saver for the third Hunter.

On the body shell side, I did not start the cleaning. Attempt is for this week-end, as well as the cleaning of the chassis. That may take a bit of time, especially considering I may be tempted to play with the 3D printer when it arrives tomorrow.

 

PS there is 3 groups with Marui RC cars on Facebook, and they are great place to find parts!

 

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1 hour ago, silvertriple said:

especially considering I may be tempted to play with the 3D printer when it arrives tomorrow

You know you will :)

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33 minutes ago, KEV THE REV said:

You know you will :)

:-)

The real question is not if I will be tempted or not (I will be, no doubts :-)), but at which time the temptation will begins. Usually, deliveries are at the end of the morning, early afternoon... 

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22 hours ago, silvertriple said:

:-)

The real question is not if I will be tempted or not (I will be, no doubts :-)), but at which time the temptation will begins. Usually, deliveries are at the end of the morning, early afternoon... 

Well... 24 hours later, I failed to work on the Hunter. Printer arrived, mounted it, and experienced some issues. It took me quite a few hours to sort the issue. This is done and it works. Preparing a test for tomorrow, and while the printing will be in progress, I'll work on the Hunter. Sounds like a plan!

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Did play a bit with the printer (ok, that was more than a bit). Got some prints done, but that was a journey. Got back to Hunter activities later today.

Bodies went to green badword around 16:30.

6RGiTJg.jpg

Glanzer is a very good product for this. Less than 2 hours after, here is the white/blue body

ywgpLxw.jpg

It will be longer for the red body, but it is promising...

4qg3vLT.jpg

The one who gave the trick said 24 hours to 48 hours. It looks in good path, even on the red one. I'm not sure I'll be able to do something with the red one as the wing holes are too big, but with the 3D printer, I should be able to solve this... :-D

 

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Patience is the key with paint stripping . Dfferent paints take different lengths of time to remove , but it all looks good

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29 minutes ago, KEV THE REV said:

Patience is the key with paint stripping . Dfferent paints take different lengths of time to remove , but it all looks good

Well... I did not have enough product, so I took the approach to frequently move the body, and so results which looks promising much earlier than expected... It works quite well, and although I was quite confident on the blue/white body, I did assume the red one would not be the same, as I thought the previous owner did already tried that... Which I know now to be wrong :-D

Let's see, may be the stickers will remain intact on the white/blue body...

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you are making great progress! Those stickers on the blue one look like they survived the process very well too.

I finally managed to re-print some stickers. I put these onto a better vinyl too that what the initial ones where printed on. So I'll send some off to you in the next day or two and you can see how they compare.

recent-purchases-2021_05_24-7.jpeg

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17 minutes ago, yogi-bear said:

you are making great progress! Those stickers on the blue one look like they survived the process very well too.

I finally managed to re-print some stickers. I put these onto a better vinyl too that what the initial ones where printed on. So I'll send some off to you in the next day or two and you can see how they compare.

recent-purchases-2021_05_24-7.jpeg

Well the process is not finished, but I had to stop it. I will restart this tomorrow with new product : it seems it is worth to filter the Glanzer time to time, as the flakes stick on the body.

Here is the result at 6 hours bath.

3O9AU0F.jpg

I have filtered what is left. lost 1/3 of the 2 liters I had initially. Tomorrow, new delivery of Glanzer, I'll get the filtered and additional ones to work together. I'll also add the driver figure I forgot to include in this bath. Starting with clean products may help...

Nice set of stickers. Looking forward for this :-). In the meantime, thinking that maybe if the stickers survive the process they are worth to consider as "Keep" on the original body, unpaint on the shelve Hunter: I never even thought about painting a body while decals are already on the body...May not be the best option... But somehow, those stickers look to be of very good quality. It is really bad that the Hunters on the wing was sticked on the paint rather than on Lexan. It's gone, unfortunately...

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those remaining stickers, I'd be keeping myself. Just cover with painters tape when you re-paint the bodies and they should be fine. You'll need to mask the car anyway to prevent overspray.

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1 minute ago, yogi-bear said:

those remaining stickers, I'd be keeping myself. Just cover with painters tape when you re-paint the bodies and they should be fine. You'll need to mask the car anyway to prevent overspray.

Time will tell. Let's see if they survive the second bath tomorrow... I'm really surprised they survived this one. Apparently, Tamiya's one don't survive this type of bath in most of the cases...

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8 minutes ago, silvertriple said:

Time will tell. Let's see if they survive the second bath tomorrow... I'm really surprised they survived this one. Apparently, Tamiya's one don't survive this type of bath in most of the cases...

I have ruined a couple of bodies trying to get paint off, but the same method and other bodies were fine. I suspect there is also an interaction between some paints and the shell that may predispose it having issues.

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It also depends some parameters of the paint application too. The paint maybe more difficult to remove if it was applied why it temperature was higher: with higher temperature the paint tend to fusion with the superficial material. If ideal conditions were meet for the paint application, it will be very difficult to remove the paint, specially if it was applied long time ago... That being said, when I saw the white blue body, I had a clear assumption the paint would be easy to remove: some part of the paint was removing itself juts by using a brush over it...

Let's see tomorrow if we can get this better...

 

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Got more Glanzer delivered today in the afternoon while I was in meetings (why it is always happening this way?). Decided to launch another bath (full bath this time) for the two bodies and the driver figure.  Put the filtered glanzer and additional ones in the bin.

While doing this, I was thinking to the end of this exercise as the filtering was quite diffficult. Searched on thingiverse to find a funnel with integrated filtration to print, and launched the 3D print, and ordered tea infusion buckets (English men won't like it, but hey, I'm french, and I don't take much tea, and this will have a practical use).

In the meantime, the driver head is already clean...
S3nhiEi.jpg

Will let the bath goes till later tonight, when I'll decide if I make it longer or stop it. in any case, I will have to wait the print ending and as well the delivery of the tea buckets I'll de-assemble to make the filtering... Sounds like a plan!

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Some time later, the driver body is clean

VcCVp1m.jpg

 

Body shells are kept in the bath for the night. Next update tomorrow...

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that Glanzer looks like magical stuff, unfortunately we can't seem to get anything like here in Australia.

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Not much being done yesterday and today, as the work is huge on the office side until the end of the week. I had a look at the bodies, it's better, but will have to rub the remaining paint (mainly on the bottom of the bodies). I'll do this tomorrow. I'll also filter the Glanzer before using some to clean the chassis.

I'm still asking what to do with the reinforced Nylon in terms of cleaning. Possibly white spirit. I'll see tomorrow on Saturday morning. By end of the week-end I should have a better visibility on where I am with this project...

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