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silvertriple

Marui Hunter(s) and a Galaxy RS too

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Body shells status
aNjpSvS.jpg

Bath lasted 72 hours. I got an awful work day yesterday, and did not had the time to take care of it earlier, and it was almost the same on Thursday.
I did not have too much hope initially for the red one which was painted from outside. It will have to be painted from outside apparently.
The blue one is in much better shape, but there is still some blue traces here and there... And the stickers suffered from the long bath. It's in better shape than expected, but I'm not sure what I do with those. On the body itself, i will try to remove the remaining blue traces with paint killer and with a knife...

Let's see where it goes...

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AeMfSCM.jpg

Paint killer did the job and helped me to finish it. The bottom of the body will require recut, but it was cut lower than the cut line. Not sure what I do with the stickers, some are quite damaged.

The detail examination of the second body shell shows traces of repair, it must be painted from outside anyway and in any case, wing and body can't be attached together without some inventive solution... I will find a way.

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that's a shame about the stickers. For the rear wing, maybe using a polycarbonate compatible glue to permanently bond the wing to the body? Tamiya make a PC cement I think or there is weld-on number 3. you could make a bridge piece between the two supports of the rear wing and use that as bigger bonding surface to the wing for added strength.

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2 minutes ago, yogi-bear said:

that's a shame about the stickers. For the rear wing, maybe using a polycarbonate compatible glue to permanently bond the wing to the body? Tamiya make a PC cement I think or there is weld-on number 3. you could make a bridge piece between the two supports of the rear wing and use that as bigger bonding surface to the wing for added strength.

For the stickers, they looked fine. But you get your finger on and ink goes... The black and blue ink seemed to be slightly better, but I don't know if this will stabilize... I'll have a look tomorrow. For the wing on the other body, I'm thinking about a small 3d parts to help in the process...

On the side, I've started to play with the caliper and fusion 360 to design shock tower reinforcement for the working chassis. Have half of it at this stage, I just need to find how to do a symmetry in Fusion 360 to get a full part. Target is to build a stl, to print it and to check if my measurements and extrapolations are right...

 

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Designed a part that should do it if my measurements are correct. Exporting the STL and looking forward for a test print. It it works as expected, I'll add some details on it to make it fitting even better (I believe we need to have something entering in the recess, but I prefer to have this tested for measurement first.

F5pAKfZ.jpg

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After the test print, I checked with the chassis...

dBLJF32.jpg

YfksBI3.jpg

Status:

  • The gearbox cover is not symmetrical, I need to review the recess on the left side, while it is useless on the right side
  • holes for the links fixation are not very far off

Modified my work in Fusion360 to take those elements into account...

8D4rrCZ.jpg

Print is in progress, results later...

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Slight modification still required to do adjustments... Holes are now in the good place, the additional material is slightly too large... Next print should be good to go...

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Final version, after the previous adjustments...
xZM25Zh.jpg
dwwIkhA.jpg

Fit is perfect... I'll just have to print this in something else than boring grey PLA (likely PETG, ABS or Nylon, not sure yet).

And would need to look into a Galaxy rear ends to see how it is mounted to verify than can apply as well for a Galaxy...

 

Edit :

  • There is possibilities of reinforcing further, i'm not sure it is required... 
  • Looking at pictures of a Galaxy, that should work as well for a Galaxy, with no issue for the roll cage fitting...
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agreed, well done. Yeah, that should be an easy install too for the Galaxy.

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Went a bit further on the shock tower reinforcement to build a prototype for an repair attempt for broken shock tower.

It will help me to define the solution, as I need to check multiple things. I have a idea in mind, but will have to verify it is feasible. In the meantime, this part can be use to reinforce non broken shock towers. It was tested yesterday night, and did not have the time to post about this earlier...

S9NlBmX.jpg

aa7jQly.jpg

I tested it on the 3 proper chassis I have and it fits in all the case...

Material is currently PLA. But I intend to print this either in PETG or ABS (PETG is probably easier to print).

Next step is to design the lower parts... I still need to think about this, and it may require a modification of the part you see on the pictures, as I may need to complete the inside of the shock towers, at least partially. That said, measures are proper, so I believe i'm in the good direction...

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Another NIP part arrived today

VFXlp9x.jpg


I had some hope that TGB was back in business on June 1st, but they are not yet back on ebay. Next date is 30th of June. I know they do reproduction of the Marui Hunter body, and I would need a least 2 or 3, and a wing....

In the meantime, it smells well for a chassis rebuild within one of the next evenings/week-end, except I still need to clean the parts.

I also have other things to do. I plan to print 3 of the single sided shock tower brace in black PETG (got the filament today), and 1 set of rear tires... For the front tires, they are not on Thingiverse, I'll have to model them myself...

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Finally printed the shock tower braces  in PETG. The finish is nice, and the final product seems good in terms of properties (flexion like ABS, but strong in the long direction). I have printed an extended version as there is one of the chassis where the screw was torqued too much apparently, so this is to be on the safe side.
cVEy4pg.jpg

Also launched a print for 2 tire set and sleeves as found on thingiverse in TPU. Interest one: it will save the nice and new tires for the shelve, and the second interest is it will allow me to check how much this is a good solution for running a Hunter. I will need to model front tires (as the guy who published it on Thingiverse did not). The print will be fairly long : more than 24 hours, so results will be visible only within next days.

Next step for the afternoon :

  • cleaning reinforced nylon parts and metallic parts
  • group the parts per build to be able to take a full stock take of what is remaining missing
  • model roll bar and rear bumper


Let's see if I can put some pictures later on today...
 

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State of the stock after reinforced nylon cleaning. I do have whatever is required to rebuilt 3 Hunters (minus some exceptions).

  • Grey chassis. Will be completed with all new parts, and the only exception to the original will be the color of the gear covers and radio box which are coming from a Galaxy cluster. It is complete, including pilot, roll bar and bumper.
  • Black chassis. Will be complete with some new parts (coming from the remains of the clusters) and parts in very good shape. Black gear box covers are having a white fog due to a reaction with the cleaning agent :(. Radio box is coming from Shapeways. Missing : pilot, roll bar and bumper.
  • Black chassis with holes at the rear end, probably to mount an alternative bumper. We'll use the rest of the parts, but for reinforced nylon parts I'm now sure I have what is needed. Gear box covers are coming from Shapeways. missing pilot, radio box, roll bar and bumper. I will have to improvise a motor mount, probably using PETG print.

on the metal part side, I'll be probably missing 2 spacers for one of the lower wishbones of the front train on the third one, and one headless screw used to fix the shafts in the transmission. I've not cleaned them yet, but will have to do this. I

Next steps is likely to be in some time as next week-end is full of activities already.

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I'm looking forward to seeing the pics of the builds, and those braces look like they will do the job.

For runners, if you aren't fussed on authenticity, you can fit hex or even the hornet/hotshot wheel adapters, opening up a lot of choice.

Its a shame that TBG aren't online and I wonder if its just a delay in getting more materials or something else. I recall looking them up about mid last year and it was the same back then, so surely they would have some supply by now.

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13 minutes ago, yogi-bear said:

For runners, if you aren't fussed on authenticity, you can fit hex or even the hornet/hotshot wheel adapters, opening up a lot of choice.

Its a shame that TBG aren't online and I wonder if its just a delay in getting more materials or something else. I recall looking them up about mid last year and it was the same back then, so surely they would have some supply by now.

There is a lot of options for the wheels... The Hornet tires are not very far from fitting for the rear (same inner diameter) and the front (inner diameter is 1mm less than the Hunter/Galaxy tires). And worst case scenario, using 3D printing, I would build 2.2 inches rims with a design close to the original (it's should be pretty simple to model, as the design is quite simple): this would open quite a wide range of possibilities in terms of tires. And for the wheel adapters, the only difference with what we can see elsewhere is the format on the wheel side, so anything can do. So yes, plenty of options. But still I'd like to see it as close as possible from the original.

For TBG, I hope they are back soon online (ebay indicates July 1st).

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Print results before removing all support
OuTw4B7.jpg

First, this is encouraging, there is a lot of wrong things in my first print of tires (stl found on Thingiverse):
- wall were not setup right, I believe this did not helped to get it right. I will make the walls thicker.
- temperature probably too high, as there is a lot of oozing on the print, which did not help to make it right
- layer was too thick. Need to do it thinner.

That being said, the tire is flexible. It won't be as sticky as a rubber tire, but that should do it for some type of surfaces... As matter of fact, as there is not enough layer, it does not keep well together, and it was not possible to remove the inside support. That being said, I can mount them on wheels this way... I did not tried to run, as there is too many imperfections on this tire set. I'll need to work out in the slicer for different and better parameters... 

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Tapping screws topic again
I had a doubt, so I order what was needed to measure the step of the screws...

Marui tapping screws are :
- diameter 4, step 1.5 mm. For information the Plastite screws I could find on Bricovis have a step of 1.75 mm for the diameter 4
- diameter 3, step 1.25 mm. The Plastite screws from Bricovis have the same step for a diameter of 3 (this is perfect match).

For the machined thread screws, they are all Metric, with the proper step for the diameter, as per the norm (M3 - 0.5, M2 - 0.45).

I measured as well the body mount, as I will need at least 2, because I have only one. A friend propose to turn them, so I had to measure the step. It's a diameter of 4 but with a step of 0.8 (basically what you would find on a metric screw of 5 in terms of step, 4 si supposed to be 0.7)

For the tapping screws in diameter 4, I have 2 options
- Find the good screws
- fill in with resin, drill and use Plastite screws

In short, if you know where to find tapping screws of 4*12 with a step of 1.5mm, please tell me :-D

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21 hours ago, yogi-bear said:

that looks pretty well designed

Yes, exactly, this is well integrated with the original Marui design... I believe we may see other interesting parts from him, as he started to digitally reproduce a lot of the emblematic eighties buggies like the Marui Samurai and some others... His digital reproductions are all great work...

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While in vacations at the beach, while my envy currently is for a Wild One, I just notice that the wheels of the Wild One have similarities in design with the Marui Hunter wheels, but in bigger diameter and with tires easy to source... That could make a good option for the runner, in the case my next attempts to print tires don't work (yeah, I'm still far from my parts and hope and still thinking about my in progress projects)... 

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Wild One wheels would look good. Just about any from the Frog/Hornet/Fox range will fit though, I've tried a few in the past and any of them are certainly easier to get!

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Another broken chassis with parts arrived today. I had a quick look:

  • complete transmission in proper state at the exception of the motor pinion
  • motor support
  • front gearbox cover in proper state
  • screws
  • front suspension in perfect state
  • front wheels with a bit of cleaning required, but tries are in good state
  • steering rods and part of the servo saver is there
  • front bumper is in good state
  • the chassis itself is broken on the rear side. There was an adaptation of a two dampers with a metallic bridge, and it was fixed within the remains of the shock towers but the remains did not survived nothing remains there, the chassis is almost flat within this area. Almost all the tubes holding the threads are highly damaged.That being said, the part where the idle shaft goes is in perfect state. May need to think, because this chassis front looks in perfect state. Maybe something to do...
  • rear axles seems longer than original ones. I suspect it is linked with the shocks which were added on the rear train, as they take much more room than the original links
  • I have one additional Hunter wheels and what appears to be Super Hornet or GH2 wheels. The rim diameter is bigger than the Hunter/Galaxy ones, but the width is lower (I did not have hands on Wild One wheels yet, are they similar to those? If so, it may not fit - need to check further)

Anycase, I'm now sure I will have soon whatever needed to rebuild three chassis. For missing roll bars and rear bumpers, I'm getting those 3D printed...

Only  remaining thing to be able to start the project is to wait for body shell availability from TBG. I could build one already, but I don't want to start until I'm able to take one single picture of the 3 sets of parts together (I may need to find a big table to do that by the way)...

 

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