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^Smith^

Tamiya Clodbuster Conversion to Bullhead

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Good Day All

I want to convert an 80's Tamiya Clod into a Bullhead...got the body kit, that was the easy part, fits perfectly

But...the existing electronics are ancient, with the old type crystal ESC... It has a metal box (the heat sink??) mounted and attached to the old ESC

The existing servo has only one rod attached to the ESC, which if I remember correctly DOES provide Front and back steering?? Although I'm not certain.

Just want to upgrade to new receiver and ESC, maybe I don't need to change out the existing steering servo??

Just want to get it running, and make the body change.

Has anyone done this conversion? Or can give me some direction------Thanks

Any help would be so much appreciated

smith

IMG_5939.JPG

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It looks like there's some confusion in how you've described what you have so far, which is totally understandable if you're trying to make sense of all these modern acronyms by reference to your older car.

What you have there is an old crystal-type AM 75MHz receiver and a mechanical speed controller (MSC) operated by a servo.  The metal box is a protective shield over the resistor, which is used by the MSC and can get very hot when in use.  There will also be a steering servo mounted lower in the chassis, which you can't see in that photo.  It's underneath the plastic tray that all those electrics bits are attached to, and will be connected to front and rear axles via long pushrods.

Some people like how the old stuff feels in these vintage trucks, so there's probably no problem in sticking with the MSC and AM radio if you wanted to, but you could get a lot more reliability by upgrading to modern parts, such as 2.4 GHz radio and an electronic speed controller (ESC).

You will need:

  • a 2.4GHz radio set.  You'll need a new transmitter and receiver.  There are lots of budget 2.4GHz radios on the market now, if you prefer a stick over a wheel then they cost a bit more.  FlySky are well-priced and have tonnes of features that your old radio probably doesn't have.
  • An ESC capable of running two motors.  The Hobbywing Quicrun 0880 has become the go-to standard for dual motor installations and gives you the option of running LiPo batteries, faster motors or more volts later if you want to.

You may also need a new steering servo.  I can't tell from the photo if your servo plugs are the older (larger) type.  At some point the plug size changed and the older larger plugs won't fit modern radios.  It might be hard to tell until you've got your new ESC - you can compare the plug sizes.  I would guess the steering servo is of the same type is operating your MSC, if so it will be basic and not provide a lot of torque, which you kind of want for turning those giant wheels.  Power HD are well-priced - a 20Kg servo should be more than up to the job.  Alternatively, if you wanted to upgrade the somewhat wobbly and vague standard steering, you could get two new servos and an axle-mounted servo setup for each end.  With a FlySky radio you can configure dual steering in a variety of ways, or you could just have steering on the front like a conventional truck.  I would say, keep the standard steering arrangement until you've had a chance to drive it around and see if you like it, as it can start getting expensive to put servos on the axles.

When you get all your new parts, you can start taking out the old stuff.  That servo and the MSC that it's connected to can go, along with that metal box and the receiver.  Your new electronics will be much more compact and won't have any moving parts.  Only the heatsink on top of the ESC will get hot but it shouldn't get hot enough to burn your fingers like the resistor does.

Hopefully that all makes sense :)

  • Like 2

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Totally agree with all of that ^^^^ sound advice!

I will just add another vote for ditching the old MSC/resistor setup. When new, they were simply acceptable in a Clod, and the one in this truck looks a bit burnt out, so it's the perfect time to update to an ESC!

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Thanks Guys

 

Yes, after I have removed the top tray, I do see another servo with long steering rods, to the front and rear

I do have a 2.4 2.4 GHz radio (for my other cars)...this is my very first restoration/ conversion

I've ordered the Tamiya TEU-106BK Twin Motor Brushed ESC TAM45054...has leads for the two motors (which is the ESC that is supposed to be used for Clods and Bulls)

I have a spare servo, in stock...Don't know if you guys Spectrum stuff from the States, The servo is a Spectrum S6020 Digital. Will that do? I can buy more servos, as I have a few more builds standing by.

I've attached a photo showing the top tray removed revealing the other steering servo.

So, I can scrap the old MSC and the resister (protective metal box) , add a new receiver, and a new ESC.

Am I missing anything??

Sorry to be a bit dense, I'm used to building right out of the box, just now, adding Hop-Ups and attempting this conversion.

IMG_5940.jpg

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Oh, and sorry again...so I have two servos. One on top of the tray and the one below...they were a connected to that crazy-looking 6-prong power switch that was attached to the MSC

How does that get connected, Maybe I need receiver that will accommodate two servos ???

Sorry, again, there's so much I don't really know!! Duh.

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The Tamiya ESC is fine for brushed motors and Ni-mh batteries or Ni-cad..

It's not suitable for use with Lipo batteries as the cut off is set lower for Li-fe batteries.. 

Also the Tamiya ESC is expensive compared to the Hobbywing ESC's which have more programmability..

 

Looks like it's too late if you already bought the Tamiya ESC..

 

But you'll soon want more power and have to upgrade it anyway.. lol

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That'll be the Power/ economy switch..

I think it provides full power to both axles (7.2volts) on power mode..

And half to each on economy mode..

 

You can program a modern ESC to do much more.. 

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Also, it's worth mentioning that if you still have the original Clodbuster body?. The front grill with the "Chevy" badge and the tailgate with Chevy branding is worth money to collectors..

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I didn't mind the stock steering on the Clodbuster with one servo.. the turning circle was fine, but you have to have the servo saver adjusted quite tight to get it to work properly.. 

 

It was the bump steer that causes the wandering...

The servo on axle kit sorts that out as well..

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Wolf

 

Thanks for your input...the Old Clod does have a "power and economy" setting.

I do like Hobbywing, use their Brushed ESCs always...but I'm afraid I just didn't know which one to use...I can cancel my order for the Tamiya ESC. Which Hobby wing ESC should I install...

and they are cheaper

Thanks again!!!.....BTW- Would you know how I can install an avatar or profile pic...can't find any good info on the site or maybe I'm not looking in the right place?

QuicRun
Brushed
WP1625
BRUSHED
All purpose
WP1060
BRUSHED
All purpose
WP0880
BRUSHED
Dual mode
WP1080 
BRUSHED
RockCrawler
p/n 30120000 30120201 30120301 30120300
  QR-1625_compact.jpg?2982 QR-1060_compact.jpg?2983 qr-860_compact.jpg?3663
 
QR1080Hor_compact.jpg?v=1476747817
Waterproof Yes Yes Yes Yes
Dual Mode No No Yes No
Fwd Cont. / Peak
Rev Cont. / Peak
25A / 100A
25A / 100A
60A / 360A
30A / 180A
80A /400A
30A / 180A
80A / 400A
40A / 200A
Fwd / Rev
Resistance
0.003Ω / 0.003Ω 0.001Ω / 0.002Ω 0.001Ω / 0.002Ω 0.001Ω / 0.002Ω
Car Applicable

1/18 &1/16
Touring Car, Buggy, Monster, Truggy

1/10
Touring Car, Buggy, Short Course Truck, Monster, Truggy, Rock Crawler and Tank

1/8 - 1/10
Touring Car, Buggy, Short Course Truck, Monster, Truggy, Rock Crawler and Tank or Boat
1/8 - 1/10
Rock Crawler and Tank or Boat
Motor Limit

Brushed motors
(280/370/380 Size)

2S Lipo or 6 NiMH
Motor
RPM<30000 @7.2V

3S Lipo or 9 NiMH
 Motor
RPM<20000 @7.2V

Brushed motors
(540/550 Size)

2S Lipo or 6 NiMH
 Motor: ≥12T
Or RPM<30000 @7.2V


3S Lipo or 9 NiMH
 Motor: ≥18T
Or RPM< 20000 @7.2V

Brushed Motor (540, 550, 775 Size Motor)

Brushed Motor Limit with 2S LiPo /6S NiMH: ≥ 12T or RPM<30000@7.4V (540, 550 Size Motors)
3S LiPo /9S NiMH: ≥ 18T or RPM<20000@7.4V (540, 550 Size Motors)

4S LiPo /12S NiMH: ≥ 24T or RPM<15000@7.4V (540, 550 Size Motors)

 

Brushed Motors (540/550/775 size)

Limit with 2S LiPo/6S NiMH: T≥12 or RPM

Limit with 3S LiPo/9S NiMH: T ≥18 or RPM< 20000 @7.2V (540/550 size motor)

Battery

2-3S Lipo or 5-9 NiMH

2-3S Lipo or 5-9 NiMH

2-4S Lipo or 5-12 NiMH 2-3S LiPo/5-9S NiMH
BEC Output 1A/6V (Linear Mode) 2A/5V (Switch Mode) 6V/4A (Switch Mode) 6V/7.4V @ 3A
(switch mode)
PWM Frequency 1KHz 1KHz
 
 Adjustable
1K/2K/4K/8K/16K
 Adjustable
1K/2K/4K/8K/16K
Size/ Weight 34(L)*24(W)*14(H) 36.5(L)*32(W)*18(H) 45.9*34.7*26.5mm 36.5(L)* 32(W)*18(H) (without fan)
External Program Port External Program Port
Not Available
External Program Port
Available
LED Program Box
(purchase separately)

LED Program Box
(purchase separately)

Cooling Fan Without cooling fan Without cooling fan - Without cooling fan 
Weight* 23.5g 39g 75g 39g
 

$18.49
Select_1_small.png?2302

Available for pickup
Check authorized dealer

$20.99
Select_1_small.png?2302

Available for pickup
Check authorized dealer

$33.99
Select_bc1aacff-3245-40d7-853d-031c4d35c1cf.png?2984

Available for pickup
Check authorized dealer 

 

$41.99
Select_bc1aacff-3245-40d7-853d-031c4d35c1cf.png?2984

Available for pickup
Check authorized dealer 

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13 minutes ago, ^Smith^ said:

Wolf

 

Thanks for your input...the Old Clod does have a "power and economy" setting.

I do like Hobbywing, use their Brushed ESCs always...but I'm afraid I just didn't know which one to use...I can cancel my order for the Tamiya ESC. Which Hobby wing ESC should I install...

and they are cheaper

Thanks again!!!.....BTW- Would you know how I can install an avatar or profile pic...can't find any good info on the site or maybe I'm not looking in the right place?

QuicRun
Brushed
WP1625
BRUSHED
All purpose
WP1060
BRUSHED
All purpose
WP0880
BRUSHED
Dual mode
WP1080 
BRUSHED
RockCrawler
p/n 30120000 30120201 30120301 30120300
  QR-1625_compact.jpg?2982 QR-1060_compact.jpg?2983 qr-860_compact.jpg?3663
 
QR1080Hor_compact.jpg?v=1476747817
Waterproof Yes Yes Yes Yes
Dual Mode No No Yes No
Fwd Cont. / Peak
Rev Cont. / Peak
25A / 100A
25A / 100A
60A / 360A
30A / 180A
80A /400A
30A / 180A
80A / 400A
40A / 200A
Fwd / Rev
Resistance
0.003Ω / 0.003Ω 0.001Ω / 0.002Ω 0.001Ω / 0.002Ω 0.001Ω / 0.002Ω
Car Applicable

1/18 &1/16
Touring Car, Buggy, Monster, Truggy

1/10
Touring Car, Buggy, Short Course Truck, Monster, Truggy, Rock Crawler and Tank

1/8 - 1/10
Touring Car, Buggy, Short Course Truck, Monster, Truggy, Rock Crawler and Tank or Boat
1/8 - 1/10
Rock Crawler and Tank or Boat
Motor Limit

Brushed motors
(280/370/380 Size)

2S Lipo or 6 NiMH
Motor
RPM<30000 @7.2V

3S Lipo or 9 NiMH
 Motor
RPM<20000 @7.2V

Brushed motors
(540/550 Size)

2S Lipo or 6 NiMH
 Motor: ≥12T
Or RPM<30000 @7.2V


3S Lipo or 9 NiMH
 Motor: ≥18T
Or RPM< 20000 @7.2V

Brushed Motor (540, 550, 775 Size Motor)

Brushed Motor Limit with 2S LiPo /6S NiMH: ≥ 12T or RPM<30000@7.4V (540, 550 Size Motors)
3S LiPo /9S NiMH: ≥ 18T or RPM<20000@7.4V (540, 550 Size Motors)

4S LiPo /12S NiMH: ≥ 24T or RPM<15000@7.4V (540, 550 Size Motors)

 

Brushed Motors (540/550/775 size)

Limit with 2S LiPo/6S NiMH: T≥12 or RPM

Limit with 3S LiPo/9S NiMH: T ≥18 or RPM< 20000 @7.2V (540/550 size motor)

Battery

2-3S Lipo or 5-9 NiMH

2-3S Lipo or 5-9 NiMH

2-4S Lipo or 5-12 NiMH 2-3S LiPo/5-9S NiMH
BEC Output 1A/6V (Linear Mode) 2A/5V (Switch Mode) 6V/4A (Switch Mode) 6V/7.4V @ 3A
(switch mode)
PWM Frequency 1KHz 1KHz
 
 Adjustable
1K/2K/4K/8K/16K
 Adjustable
1K/2K/4K/8K/16K
Size/ Weight 34(L)*24(W)*14(H) 36.5(L)*32(W)*18(H) 45.9*34.7*26.5mm 36.5(L)* 32(W)*18(H) (without fan)
External Program Port External Program Port
Not Available
External Program Port
Available
LED Program Box
(purchase separately)

LED Program Box
(purchase separately)

Cooling Fan Without cooling fan Without cooling fan - Without cooling fan 
Weight* 23.5g 39g 75g 39g
 

$18.49
Select_1_small.png?2302

Available for pickup
Check authorized dealer

$20.99
Select_1_small.png?2302

Available for pickup
Check authorized dealer

$33.99
Select_bc1aacff-3245-40d7-853d-031c4d35c1cf.png?2984

Available for pickup
Check authorized dealer 

 

$41.99
Select_bc1aacff-3245-40d7-853d-031c4d35c1cf.png?2984

Available for pickup
Check authorized dealer   
 

 

If you decide To cancel the Tamiya ESC you ordered and get the Hobbywing, It should be the 880 Dual Brushed model you are looking for 

 

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Tried to add this link to mine earlier but couldn't do it.. 

 

Did I mention, that you might want to add an axle as an upgrade?. 

Or maybe 3x brushless motors?

YouTube won't let me share any of the old short videos..

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Wolf

You got some crazy power there pulling the kiddie around.. WOW

I suppose I'll have to change out the existing connecters from the motors so I can connect to the new Hobbywing ESC??,

I was able to cancel the Tamiya order

 

Thanks for your input

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28 minutes ago, ^Smith^ said:

Wolf

You got some crazy power there pulling the kiddie around.. WOW

I suppose I'll have to change out the existing connecters from the motors so I can connect to the new Hobbywing ESC??,

I was able to cancel the Tamiya order

 

Thanks for your input

The motors should plug right up 

The Hobbywing will probably have either a Tamiya connector or. Deans (T Plug) for the battery 

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the connectors on the existing motors are wrong

they plugged into the power saver switch with spade type connectors

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If your motors have spade-type connectors then they'll need changing to bullet types to fit the new ESC (both the Tamiya and the Hobbywing will have bullet connectors).  You might be able to get the right connectors from an automotive spares shop - if you take in the ESC and the motors they might even fit the connectors for you.  Alternatively your hobby shop should be able to sell some connectors that you can crimp or solder on at home.  Personally I prefer solder but there's nothing wrong with crimps if done properly - after all they come from the factory with crimped connectors and I've never had one fall off.

As mentioned above, the battery connector on the Hobbywing will either be Tamiya or Deans - if all your current cars and batteries are still on Tamiya connectors then it makes sense to get this one with Tamiya connectors too, although Deans or XT60 can flow more current if you upgrade the motors and batteries later.  If the ESC arrives and it has a Deans connector, you can buy an adapter lead to fit your existing batteries.

Also as mentioned above, that switch with all the crazy wires won't be needed any more, you will just have a single switch on the ESC to turn the whole thing in and off.  No need for economy mode with modern batteries (even NiMH batteries) and if you did want longer runtimes at the cost of lower speed, you can program the ESC to deliver half power to the motors.

Your Spektrum servo should be OK.  According to the specs it's (mostly) metal geared and provides around 10Kg of torque at the voltage provided by the 0880 ESC, so it should be adequate.  It's possible the servo horn installed right now won't fit the Spektrum but I don't know for sure, but hopefully the Spektrum came with some servo horns that you can fit.

Your receiver doesn't need space for 2 servos unless you plan to go for a servo-on-axle installation with a servo at each end (even then, you could get away with using a Y-lead from receiver to both servos to get around this).  But I don't think that's what you're asking.  Basically your receiver needs at least 2 channels - one for the steering servo, one for the ESC.  Even a 2-channel receiver will probably have a 3rd port labelled BIND, which is used to bind the receiver to the transmitter and can be used as a battery port to power the receiver (for MSC and older ESCs that didn't have built in BEC for powering the receiver) or as a power outlet to run things like LEDs or a race transponder.  Basically the finished setup in your Clod should look mostly identical to that in your other cars - one receiver with one lead going to the steering servo and one going to the ESC.  The only key differences are: the steering servo is connected to both axles, and the ESC is connected to two motors.

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Hey Ax

Sorry I missed your reply , from the other day, my apologies.

Agreed....you posted: Basically the finished setup in your Clod should look mostly identical to that in your other cars - one receiver with one lead going to the steering servo and one going to the ESC.

Would I be correct, in saying that the only difference from my other cars...all buggies at this point, is that the "New" Bullhead has two motors. So, I've ordered the Hobbywing 880, recommended by Dakratfink which will accommodate the two motor system

The steering servo below the upper tray will be MY steering servo. What I thought was an additional servo on top of the Upper tray, (that had a short rod to the old MSC), will be removed, Correct?

On and different note; on this forum, seems like there are many members from Europe, many from the UK. So, I checked out Bath. Looks like a very cool place! has Mary Shelly's home, Frankenstein. Awesome. ...on my "bucket-list" to visit

Thank you Ax.

 

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