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After wanting the super clodbuster since the early 2000's I finally got one. I haven't built it yet. I would like some advice on upgrades.  I want to keep it stock, but would like some suggestions on small upgrades to make it run smother.  Someone said sealed bearings and moving the servo. This is all new to me can someone explain and offer other suggestions.

Thanks. 

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The Super Clod is a super fun truck to build, and run. It really only needs a few hop-ups out of the box. 1st, a ball bearing kit is a must have. The kit comes with power robbing bushings that will wear out the shafts, and just do not rotate as smoothly as ball bearings. 2nd, steel pinion gears. The stock ones are ok at first, but since they are made from a soft aluminum, they will start to wear quickly. Steel pinion gears such as Robinson Racing Absolute 13t, 32 pitch gears are what I use. 3rd, metal anti-rotation brackets are recommended since the stock plastic braces can snap. These are easily found on eBay, most are made from either stainless steel, or aluminum. As for the servo, I have a high torque digital Savox servo in the stock location. It works ok for light duty running for what I do, but if you push the truck hard, or just want better overall steering, moving the servo to the axle is a good idea. Personally, I would build the kit first, and see what you think about its performance, and hop it up as needed. The sky is the limit with the clod, so many parts, and good upgrades out there. Just depends on what you want to do with it.

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Thanks for the info. I  took your advice and ordered the parts suggested.

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I have more questions... I'm looking over the instruction booklet about the dampers, step #28. I see the damper parts, but there's a drawing four shaded blocks measured at 19mm each. I don't understand what this is supposed to represent.  I don't know of I'm overthinking it or its just old age but I don't see what its saying. Help.

Also what is the size of the damper if I needed to replace it?  I have read they are 100mm and 110mm.

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3 hours ago, BILL1 said:

I have more questions... I'm looking over the instruction booklet about the dampers, step #28. I see the damper parts, but there's a drawing four shaded blocks measured at 19mm each. I don't understand what this is supposed to represent.  I don't know of I'm overthinking it or its just old age but I don't see what its saying. Help.

Also what is the size of the damper if I needed to replace it?  I have read they are 100mm and 110mm.

They are "bump stops" for the shocks, you cut the rubber to length to stop the shocks from bottoming out which would destroy the shock.

Without the bump stops, the shock shaft would push the top of the shock off on full compression..

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I read a lot on here that people say to change the pinions to steel ones.
While on some of the facebook groups I am in people advise to keep them stock and change them every once in a while as the steel ones will destroy the other gears which take much more time to replace.
What would be the correct route?

If you are going to run LiPo I would also get a better ESC, I got the QuicRun 880 which has a built-in LiPo cut-off.

After a few runs I really disliked the stock steering setup so I moved the servo to the front with an Arch Fabrication Servo mount bumper and locked the rear.
Even with the locked rear it steers better this way than with the stock setup

 

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17 hours ago, Yonzariq said:

I read a lot on here that people say to change the pinions to steel ones.
While on some of the facebook groups I am in people advise to keep them stock and change them every once in a while as the steel ones will destroy the other gears which take much more time to replace.
What would be the correct route?

Is this due to everyone using 32dp instead of 0.8mod pinions? They are very close but I suspect there’s a difference in the tooth profile which over time will wear which is what the extra noise is when 32dp pinions are used to replace the original. 
Probably more powerful motors will make the situation worse leading to the gears needing replaced sooner.
It’s a theory I’ve been mulling over for a while but can’t find a 0.8mod 13t pinion to see if I’m on the right track?

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if wanting to replace shocks traxxas ultra shocks long fit and work well. 

found this online recently some say the newer style axle braces need to be bended.

metal brace bend.jpg

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2 hours ago, DaveBuildsRC said:

if wanting to replace shocks traxxas ultra shocks long fit and work well. 

found this online recently some say the newer style axle braces need to be bended.

metal brace bend.jpg

I wonder how recent this is. I just checked a NIB Bull Head I purchased last summer and I don't see this sheet in there. Do you know if this was an insert/addition to the instructions?

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On 5/20/2021 at 5:52 PM, tamiya_1971 said:

I wonder how recent this is. I just checked a NIB Bull Head I purchased last summer and I don't see this sheet in there. Do you know if this was an insert/addition to the instructions?

new insert from the super clodbuster black edition. 

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On 5/20/2021 at 9:29 PM, DaveBuildsRC said:

if wanting to replace shocks traxxas ultra shocks long fit and work well. 

found this online recently some say the newer style axle braces need to be bended.

metal brace bend.jpg

Wish they added this sheet in my Super Clod box, had a hard time mounting those things...

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