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silvertriple

SilverTriple's Tamiya Super Hotshot - 58517

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Hello,

My first build thread here! I tried to make it mine, somehow.

It started with a box...
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Obviously, I did not wait long to open it and check what is inside
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The box then spent some time under my desk until I decided to start the build. Although it is not indicated as first step in the manual, I started to assemble the wheels to gain a little bit of space in the box (always useful when you need to free up space on the table). Those are gold... It clearly generated some deco ideas...
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Then you start to build the rear gearbox. The out diff are maintained by e-clip, and ball bearings are supplied in the kit (and it is really nice to have full ball bearing within a kit. I'm not sure it is the case for it's sibling the Hotshot).
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I had some difficulties to find the way to close the gearbox. I had to do multiple tris before finding the proper way. and the axe going thru the out diffs was maintained by two pieces of urethan bushings... which was difficult to maintain in place if you don't keep the gearbox leveled. Long story short, I had finally a gearbox, on which I added a motor (the GT Tuned 25T supplied in the box).
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Later on I did exactly the same for the front gearbox.With 2 differences : no urethan bushings in the out diff, and no motor :-).
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That was the end of parts bag A.

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I had then a look at the manual and understood that if I want to do bag B smoothly, I had to do the driver paint before. So it was time to stop for the day. I planed to do paint of the driver within the following days, as it implies multiple days of small activities (even with an hair dryer to reduce the time between layers of paint)...
I Did some activities between meetings or at the end of the day, when I had 5 to 10 minutes to do some paint job. Really small paint activities, actually, but that is what takes the more time. At the end of the week, I had a decent driver figure, I tried to assort with the gold wheels (let's be clear, I'm not that good at this, but I do progress each time).
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Having this done, it was then time to open parts bag B. I started to sort the components on the side of my plate (yes, I always work in a plate: my wife bought a lot of these for when the kids play lego. I just stole one of them :-) , as it makes easier to free the table and avoid loosing parts).
Assembly here is starting by the front uprights
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(when doing this you notice there is unused uprights on the cluster and the copyright dates are different (1985 vs 1987 -
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asking myself what the hotshot is using).
Then the assembly continues with the front suspension arms...
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... and they find themselves joining the front gearbox at the next step
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For the rear it is slightly different as you start by assembling the upper wishbones...
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... before the lower ones separately...
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...and to join them together
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Then comes the pilot on the main part of the chassis, as well as the battery retainers. On the left side, only one screw is put in place (by the way a funny inconsistency on each and every single left representation of the assembly : there is always 2 screws presented on the drawing but this step).
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At the next step the rear gearbox meet the chassis. The sway bar is also mounted, but it seems useless at that step...
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Then comes the front gearbox and the shaft, for which you are adding urethane bushing only at the front gear box side..
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It is to be noted that starting here, this build really differentiate from a hotshot, as you mount front shock stays while mounting the front gear box in the chassis
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At this stage, it start to shape. And parts bag B is finished. It will be time to open bag C soon...

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Few days later, I finally opened parts bag C and started to mount the dampers
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I found a very practical use case for the Tamiya toolkit case while mounting the dampers
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The rear shocks have an aeration hole...
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A wrench is supplied and seems only be used at this stage
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And you finally have 4 dampers ready to be attached to the chassis...
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Front are mounted quickly. You may note the loctite I used a lot for this build on the top of the picture...
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Within next steps I mounted the servo saver, installed it in place, as well as the RX and the ESC (I change the switch of this one by one exactly the same size of the switch of the Tamiya TBLE-02S)
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Once this is done, box joins the chassis and the steering adjustments are made
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And this is the end of parts bag C.

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I opened the parts bag D. It will be definitely difficult to get this built until June :)
First cumbersome step is to cut the grid that will go on the side to protect the driver...
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Adn then install those while mounting the roll cage
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Once you got the roof installed, it goes on the chassis. The rear shock stay is added as well
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Then you add the battery under door (yes it is a door, with clips) under the chassis
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And go back on top of the chassis to add the rear dampers
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And the wheels joins the chassis
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Next is the skid plate and the front bumper, both fixed with tapping screws (making the clips mounted on the battery door totally useless)
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The chassis is almost finished.
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I then trimmed the body and the wing to get ready for the paint
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And next will be my final steps...

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It took me about 3 half days of work to get thru the paint. It started by masks and decals preparation within Silhouette studio. There was things I was not sure I'll be able to do, and things which I can't do easily of with too much risk, so I decided for plain white vinyls.

Anycase, as usual, I cleaned the body, and dried it, then I applied the masks
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At this stage I was still hesitant on the color. I did some tries, and it resulted into translucent red, gold and black.
I applied the red first and unmask what was targeted to be gold
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Then applied the gold, and removed the remaining masks
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On the next day, I applied black
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And removed the film
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And this is the final result after application of white vinyls:
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Spectacular work on the shell! I had no idea all that non-white text was all paint :o

I can confirm that the Hotshot only features partial ball bearings, mostly for the gearbox; the hubs and some of the smaller gears use metal or plastic bearings. It is nice to see how the Super Hotshot has built up on the original concept, and I hope that translates into an excellent runner for you :D

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7 minutes ago, Grastens said:

Spectacular work on the shell! I had no idea all that non-white text was all paint :o

I can confirm that the Hotshot only features partial ball bearings, mostly for the gearbox; the hubs and some of the smaller gears use metal or plastic bearings. It is nice to see how the Super Hotshot has built up on the original concept, and I hope that translates into an excellent runner for you :D

Thanks!

Yeah, I got the Silhouette Cameo 4 while I was building my Turbo Scorpion. It really opens a world of possibilities for painting and decoration. You may have a look at the Turbo Scorpion in the Kyosho area of this forum. All neon orange decors are painted, and the same process applied, although I worked by zone rather than for the full body... Ultimately, it is about trying some new techniques, built up over ideas, and makes your build separating from any other of the same buggy. And I can't imagine what would be a track with all the buggy with the same box-art scheme :-D!

And for the run, this buggy will run for sure. That's the intention, but most likely less than my Kyosho Turbo Scorpion or the Javelin (for when I will have it built, although I'm quite sure I will find very frustrating the fact there is no paint on the body as there is no body - need to find a way to solve that :-D). 

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Very nice indeed, clever stuff with the masking 👍🏻

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Looks sweet ! You should get these gmade shocks and I think it would make the body pop even more. The shocks are pretty cheap. 

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I like when my car has leds (sometimes I'm running them at night). This is something my Super Hotshot doesn't have yet...

Therefore I started to work out something from a part I found on Thingiverse. The idea is to add lights fixed on the front bulkhead, on top of the bumper. I did not considered the placement on the body shell like it is done on the Hotshot (I would eventually do if I want to add a second pair of leds, but to me, it doesn't really make sense: In the real life, who would add llights there as they would only light the front shocks ;-D)

41uDra6.jpg

Next is to do a print test. If if works as expected, I'll post the stl on thingiverse...

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Lights look really good. They fit in with the design like they were part of the kit. And Kudos for putting the parts on Thingiverse. If only I had a 3D printer...

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8 hours ago, cambragol said:

Lights look really good. They fit in with the design like they were part of the kit. And Kudos for putting the parts on Thingiverse. If only I had a 3D printer...

Thanks!

And for the 3D printer, today, it doesn't cost much to have a decent 3D printer, specially if you only intend to print small parts (less than a Tamiya kit, in fact, and it could be used to print a lot of things... You may even print a full RC car, with files adapted to small bed printer)... It's a few years I was thinking about a 3D printer, and the fact is that once you have one you will rethink the way you source tools as well: sometimes it is easier to print something than to find something unfindable (and generally, since we are not alone to have the problem, you can find all sort of files on Thingiverse): with those elements in mind earlier, I would have invested much earlier in the 3D printer...

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I have looked into just getting pieces individually printed by professional services, like 3dhubs. You can choose many different materials, and finishes, that would not be available in home printing. 

Of course, there is the cost. Band together with 20-30 friends, make a bulk order, and you can get pieces like this CNCd for 30-40 dollars. Still not cheap. 

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Yeah... This is always a possibility... That being said, it's fine when you are sure about your design being final... Sometimes it doesn't work as expected... For prototyping, having a printer is a must: you can validate your design easily. For the Hunter parts, each version needed adjustments : up to 3 prints before getting the final version. On the Super Hotshot, it was good at first try, but that was easier...

So yes, for a final version, you can use online services, even cnc ones. But printer is handy when validating the design, and that would help to reduce the cost... And taking into consideration the cost of the material itself, with 3/4 tries, you just offset the cost of the online service for the tries with a cheap 3D printer... 

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Finally had the time to wire the leds. and 2 of them did not work, so I had to find other leds to replace them, and that weird, it seems one of them is not the same as the other. I will have to replace it. In the meantime it has lights...

lcobz9V.jpg
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On 8/23/2021 at 1:53 AM, cambragol said:

Very nice. I need to print those pieces for my own car. They really work well. 

I started this way about 3DPrinter by contemplating what others could do with it... At some point, you will pull the trigger on one :-)

 

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Updated the front holder to reinforce it as I broke the one from the Javelin during a crash...

gwzpSAd.jpg

This one should be more robust with a 100% infill print...

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As I was due to print some stuff and launched the printer, took benefit to change the led support of the Super Hotshot...
3nRNipn.jpg

The front as been made more robust. And for the rear, robustness was not really the target, as it is not really exposed... But a small detail makes a lot of difference in realism :-D
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I mounted the Star dish wheels for a reason. I wanted to do some crash test. (My cars shelf queens are not :-D)
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Spoiler on the test results : the front led holder resisted, but I did assist to a front hub detaching itself from the car...No part lost, the do bone was still there, and I just had to put the things back in place and do tighten it... I may have some pictures to extract from the camera to proof my saying :-)

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Proofs of the testing efforts :-)
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As mentioned earlier, no parts broken or lost during the test, and Super Hotshot is back to work after I put the things back in place...

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