DT02 12mm how to hex upgrade at front ?

[mischa72 0]

Hello all,

I want to change wheels on my DT02 and most of the wheels I like are 12mm hex for front and rear. Also just to have a bit more options to choose from I'd like to upgrade to hex at the front. I assume people did this before, so I'm curious what I need for this mod. Guess I also have to put other bearings?

Regards,

Mischa

 

[Badcrumble 4201]

Try here...

 

 

[mischa72 0]

Thanks a lot !!!

[RoGuE_StreaK 3]

A different beast but potentially worth looking at, "commiedoor" converted a Hornet front end using Traxxas bits.  Depending on local availability and price, I think I've tracked down stub axles on aliexpress using the same codes, but significantly cheaper.  Bearings seem to be one of the biggest costs, but perhaps those currently on your wheels may fit the holders? (only just thought of that bit, pretty sure the bearings on my Hornet and Frog are the right size for the Rustler carriers)

 

If you zoom in on this pack you can read the codes for each part and search for them individually

https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-Steering-Caster-Stampede-Rustler/dp/B015JJZZQ0

 

Another hex conversion was discussed here:

 

Think I've seen another one somewhere which used larger carriers which fitted over the... knuckle? instead of within, but can't find that one offhand.  As I'm sure you've figured out by now, it's changing from having a static axle and bearings in the wheels, to having the bearings in the axle carrier so the axle itself revolves.  There are hexes with bearings built-in so they theoretically slip over a static axle, but they are just as expensive (or more-so) as doing a full conversion, and apparently don't work properly.

[mischa72 0]

Awesome man ! Thanks a lot 

[B.RAD 240]

You can also use a bearing to hex adaptor, like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GPM-DT-03-Aluminium-Front-Wheel-Hex-Adapter-With-Bearing-3-of-2-Sets-DT3010F-OR-/353508207916?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

 

[Badcrumble 4201]

1 hour ago, B.RAD said:

You can also use a bearing to hex adaptor, like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GPM-DT-03-Aluminium-Front-Wheel-Hex-Adapter-With-Bearing-3-of-2-Sets-DT3010F-OR-/353508207916?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

 

As previously mentioned in this thread and the ones quoted, they are a bit hit and miss.

[B.RAD 240]

29 minutes ago, Badcrumble said:

As previously mentioned in this thread and the ones quoted, they are a bit hit and miss.

Oh really? I must be lucky and got a "hit" then 😁. Have been working really well on my Mad Bull buggy conversion. 

I guess it depends how much you want to spend and how much work you're willing to do, it's certainly a cheaper option to try. 

[nowinaminute 2815]

The GPM adapters have worked fine for me with a few caveats. 

I find you usually have to drill the centre of the wheel out very slightly to allow it to clear the axle, I'm talking just a tiny amount of material being removed which won't affect the wheel being used on normal hexes again if you choose to. Once you do that, the wheel nut can tighten right up to the end of the thread without binding anything.

I thought the wheel rubbing against the nut might be a problem as the adapter/wheel have nothing locking them onto the shaft laterally but it doesn't seem to be a significant issue at all after using them a lot in various situations such as the beach. It can help to apply a little ptfe tape between the wheel and hex adapter just to remove any play.

Doing the above has given me many happy hours of use BUT if you wanted to totally eliminate the sideways movement and potential for the wheel rubbing on the nut, you could do the following:

1. Glue the wheel to the adapter (maybe use shoe goo or something else which holds very strongly but can still be removed.
2. Use thread lock on the outer races of the bearings to lock them to the inside of the adapter.
3. Use threadlock on the inner races of the bearings to lock them to the axles as far inboard as they can go.

If you did the above 3 things, the wheel and adapter will not budge sideways at all and cannot scuff against the wheel nut.

But saying all that, all I usually do is bore the wheel out a tiny bit and then just throw the whole lot on and I haven't had any excessive rubbing between the wheel and nut so far. You do get a little bit of play between wheel and adapter with some wheels but the ptfe tape can sort that out and put you back to the same amount of play you get stock (budget tamiya buggies don't have the greatest tolerances even with the stock wheels, let's be honest)

Here's an example of the adapters at work. 
 

 

[Badcrumble 4201]

@B.RAD you're not wrong and apologies for my brief reply, they are are a cheap option - I have some myself!

However, they don't solve the fundamental issue as the axle doesn't rotate in this set-up and as @nowinaminute documents, more modding can be required to get them running without issue.