Hobbywing 1060 Limiting speed of Superstock RZ

[rwordenjr 1890]

1 hour ago, Wooster said:

Any tips for removing said machine screws? The two in question just spin in their stripped holes now! I suppose I could try pulling them out with force (if possible) but fear that will result in needing a new chassis and mechanism box...

Can you get the screws out enough to get pliers around the head? You need to unscrew and pull up at same time. 

[Wooster 30]

6 hours ago, Silver-Can said:

Daft question, but I note from your OP that it is a steel aftermarket pinion - are sure it's the correct pitch? My HS was my first car when I got back into the hobby about 10 years ago. I ordered a number of alternative pinions only to discover they were the wrong pitch. They were 48dp instead of the 0.8mod or 32dp required. Just a thought.

Its a Carson 500013403 13T Steel Pinion Gear (0.8/08 Module) - so should be the perfect fit...

[Silver-Can 402]

3 hours ago, Wooster said:

Its a Carson 500013403 13T Steel Pinion Gear (0.8/08 Module) - so should be the perfect fit...

Yeah sorry mate - after re reading all of your OP I realised you had at least 1 other car so figured you would have sussed that. Does it sound 'rough' eg noticeably louder/crunchier/whiner etc when you drive it,  compared to your blitzer? 

[Falcon#5 594]

15 hours ago, Wooster said:

Any tips for removing said machine screws? The two in question just spin in their stripped holes now! I suppose I could try pulling them out with force (if possible) but fear that will result in needing a new chassis and mechanism box...

Try getting a fine flat blade screwdriver under the head of the screw to apply some upward pressure by twisting/levering while simultaneously unscrewing it.

Move up to a larger screwdriver or pointy nose pliers if you need another bite.

[jonboy1 2943]

when I've got really desperate trying to get a screw like this out I have been known to resorting to superglueing an old screwdriver to the head of the screw and that got it out quite easily.

[Wooster 30]

9 hours ago, Silver-Can said:

Yeah sorry mate - after re reading all of your OP I realised you had at least 1 other car so figured you would have sussed that. Does it sound 'rough' eg noticeably louder/crunchier/whiner etc when you drive it,  compared to your blitzer? 

No need to apologise ☺ - tbh I think I've bought pinions in the past not even realising they could have different pitches. Turns out I was just lucky! I think the noise the Hotshot makes is what I would expect considering all the moving parts. One thing that is on my mind is that I followed some advice to use Anti Wear grease on the diff gears, rather than the suggested molybdenum, to purposely limit them. Could this have got where it wasn't intended and bound up the other gears? Surely its not that sticky..is it? I always hesitate before unscrewing and rescrewing all the metal into plastic on my Tamiyas but I think I am gonna have to strip it down and build it back up...

[Silver-Can 402]

15 hours ago, Wooster said:

No need to apologise ☺ - tbh I think I've bought pinions in the past not even realising they could have different pitches. Turns out I was just lucky! I think the noise the Hotshot makes is what I would expect considering all the moving parts. One thing that is on my mind is that I followed some advice to use Anti Wear grease on the diff gears, rather than the suggested molybdenum, to purposely limit them. Could this have got where it wasn't intended and bound up the other gears? Surely its not that sticky..is it? I always hesitate before unscrewing and rescrewing all the metal into plastic on my Tamiyas but I think I am gonna have to strip it down and build it back up...

I'd be surprised if it were that tbh. I've used the diff putty in a number of different diffs (bearhawk, dt01, tl01b, df01 etc) without issue - although they are 'closed' as opposed to open so who knows; it could have got somewhere it shouldn't 🤷‍♂️. I guess the only other option is swap all your electronics from your blitzer with your HS and see if that makes any difference. Bit of a faff, but if it does the job...Good luck 👍 

Edit - I meant to say swap your esc, not all the electronics 😁😳🤞

[Wooster 30]

Had a chance to try out the Hotshot with the pinion backed away from the spur by one metal plate and it does seem to have improved things. The motor and ESC still get a bit hot after a while - but not as hot as before. Hope it won’t result in eventually stripping the spur gear...

It is worth noting that the weather here in the U.K isn’t as sunny and hot as it was a week ago so that must have had an effect too.

I did try turning the car off and on, after a while, and it did still have an initial burst of speed that the ESC then reigned in after a bit. I think I can live with it though. If I do manage to get those front screws on the chassis off, to release the mechanism box, I’ll try a different ESC...

[Wooster 30]

Just to update this thread - I managed to remove those two 3 x 27mm screws at the front of the chassis so I could get the mechanism box off. Thanks for the tips @rwordenjr, @Falcon#5 and @jonboy1 - in the end, I undid the skid plate so I could pull down on the mechanism box as I unscrewed the screws and they eventually let go! I removed the Quicrun 1060 and put in an Etronix ET0103. This ESC isn’t without its quirks - it seems to be wired back to front so that I need to put the jumper tab in the ‘Throttle Reverse’ Position rather than the ‘Throttle Normal’ in order for it to respond - irrespective of how I have the throttle set on the Tx - and then wire it up to the motor in reverse (i.e Yellow to Black and Blue to Red)! However - once all this was done - the Hotshot is now the car it should be! With a brand new 5300mah Ni-mh battery in it, it tears around on hard ground and flings bark clippings up in the air. Not so great on longer grass but that’s a Superstock RZ as opposed to a TZ for you. I put the Quicrun 1060 in a Lunchbox, running a Sport Tuned motor on Nimh and it was soon up to its old tricks. An initial burst of speed which was soon replaced by ‘limp mode’. I think I’ll have a go at the soldering on a capacitor fix, at some point, but for now it’s case closed. I won’t be buying a 1060 again...

[Cynan 520]

Shame on the 1060 after all the rave reviews it has got 

But glad you got it sorted.

[Wooster 30]

2 minutes ago, Cynan said:

Shame on the 1060 after all the rave reviews it has got 

But glad you got it sorted.

It does seem like a bit of a lucky dip - the people that love theirs got lucky and those like us didn’t... Mine’s deffo not a cheap copy (it’s got the hologram on the box, free Hobbywing stickers, the little bag of heat shrink etc.). Thinking about it, pretty much every ESC I have owned, from Tamiya, Mtroniks, Tridents and Hobbywing have all had some odd quirk about them but the 1060 is the biggest fun sapper. 

[Falcon#5 594]

Glad you got it sorted, but shame about the ESC.

I've never owned a 1060, but have had well over a dozen Hobbywing Brushless ESCs of various Amps in both sensored & sensorless without a problem.

Hoping you were just unlucky & in the minority.