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Posted
6 minutes ago, Saito2 said:

No, no, I wasn't complaining or calling you out. I don't feel you've done anything wrong. I was honest when I started my question by saying "out of sheer curiosity". I wanted to understand/hear how others pronounce it out of personal interest. I meant no offence. 

Cool. Thanks for the examples.

None taken,  if we can’t admit mistakes and learn from them the we can’t grow. 

Posted
47 minutes ago, nowinaminute said:

How are there unboxing videos and we can't even see the manual yet, dammit?

You get a good look at the manual in the CompetitionX unboxing video.

  • Like 1
Posted
18 hours ago, Saito2 said:

Out of sheer curiosity, what's odd with how he pronounces, Avante, chassis and Tamiya?

And just to conclude this side conversation about pronunciation, the word 'chassis' is of French origin, and in the UK, and possibly elsewhere, it is pronounced the French way, with the 'ch' as a 'sh' sound, so - 'shassy' rather than 'chassy'. 

  • Like 2
Posted
12 minutes ago, TwistedxSlayer said:

Haters gonna hate but....

 

I really don't like that body and don't understand the whole Avante thing.

I think we covered this over the first 3/4 pages……

  • Thanks 2
Posted
6 hours ago, rich_f said:

And just to conclude this side conversation about pronunciation, the word 'chassis' is of French origin, and in the UK, and possibly elsewhere, it is pronounced the French way, with the 'ch' as a 'sh' sound, so - 'shassy' rather than 'chassy'. 

It makes me chuckle when the USA have SHevrolet and SHampagne, but their vehicles all have CHassis

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted
58 minutes ago, TWINSET said:

It makes me chuckle when the USA have SHevrolet and SHampagne, but their vehicles all have CHassis

You know, that's a very good point ;).

Posted
On 8/14/2021 at 12:46 PM, Sir Crashalot said:

Looks like there are captive nuts in the chassis for attaching the front damper mount.

It appears to be a three-part system: a small screw holds in the plastic retainer which looks like part #A28 (A parts sprue), which in turn retains the threaded nut that looks like part #MA10 (metal parts bag A). 

Screenshot 2021-08-14 at 3.45.47 PM.png

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, TwistedxSlayer said:

Haters gonna hate but....

 

I really don't like that body and don't understand the whole Avante thing.

I'll probably just call it the "Psuedo Avante" after I buy one. It just hits all the buttons for me: moderate price, unassembled kit, newer design, and parts support.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 8/5/2021 at 2:39 PM, toyolien said:

I just wanna see if there's a proper way to remove the battery before I order one.

After studying the manual in the unboxing video, I've got my plan figured out:

Eschew the chassis brace/ESC tray and driver figure mount in order to drop in a 2S shorty.

Mount RX as far under the front shocks as possible, with ESC in between RX and 2S shorty.

Secure all with aggressive hook-and-loop fastener.

If all goes to plan, I'll never need to unthread the shock brace.

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, TWINSET said:

It makes me chuckle when the USA have SHevrolet and SHampagne, but their vehicles all have CHassis

We did the same thing to "champion." Those first two examples are proper nouns, so we at least respected those. I worked in bike shops for twenty-five years, and not once heard anyone properly pronounce MAVIC. Yes it's an acronym, but a French one, so French pronunciation still applies. 

Posted
13 minutes ago, BelknapCrater said:

After studying the manual in the unboxing video, I've got my plan figured out:

Eschew the chassis brace/ESC tray and driver figure mount in order to drop in a 2S shorty.

Mount RX as far under the front shocks as possible, with ESC in between RX and 2S shorty.

Secure all with aggressive hook-and-loop fastener.

If all goes to plan, I'll never need to unthread the shock brace.

Exactly what I was thinking/hoping to do. 

  • Like 1
Posted
46 minutes ago, BelknapCrater said:

It appears to be a three-part system: a small screw holds in the plastic retainer which looks like part #A28 (A parts sprue), which in turn retains the threaded nut that looks like part #MA10 (metal parts bag A). 

Screenshot 2021-08-14 at 3.45.47 PM.png

Yeah and looks like the rear brace is not structural too, which could also help access

Posted
36 minutes ago, BelknapCrater said:

After studying the manual in the unboxing video, I've got my plan figured out:

Eschew the chassis brace/ESC tray and driver figure mount in order to drop in a 2S shorty.

Mount RX as far under the front shocks as possible, with ESC in between RX and 2S shorty.

Secure all with aggressive hook-and-loop fastener.

If all goes to plan, I'll never need to unthread the shock brace.

Pretty much my plan from the first moment I saw it, never intended to use the driver figure

Posted
43 minutes ago, BelknapCrater said:

Eschew the chassis brace/ESC tray and driver figure mount in order to drop in a 2S shorty.

I was hoping to fit a 2s shorty ,sideways since seeing the first video, the box opening makes me more convinced.

I'm  thinking of a m2/3 or 4 allen stud, screwed into the side pod, slide up through (superglue the spacer in place) and use a knurled thumb nut on the top, like some race cars (both my laydown and yz2-t) 😁

  • Like 1
Posted

Once you relocate the battery, I wonder if you can move the steering servo to the RHS of the car.   That would eliminate the bellcrank and one of the steering links.

Posted
2 minutes ago, Wheel_Nut said:

Once you relocate the battery, I wonder if you can move the steering servo to the RHS of the car.   That would eliminate the bellcrank and one of the steering links.

If the battery could be relocated - the servo would probably be better going under the front shocks to keep it lower and more central (probably wouldn't need a low profile servo then either)

Posted
4 minutes ago, BuggyGuy said:

If the battery could be relocated - the servo would probably be better going under the front shocks to keep it lower and more central (probably wouldn't need a low profile servo then either)

A lot of cutting might be involved to relocate the servo under the shocks. The upper gear box cover is bolted over the main steering linkage. Assuming that the servo is no taller than a NIMH battery, room for the servo horn has to be found under the shocks for full range of motion. 

Posted
Just now, BelknapCrater said:

A lot of cutting might be involved to relocate the servo under the shocks. The upper gear box cover is bolted over the main steering linkage. Assuming that the servo is no taller than a NIMH battery, room for the servo horn has to be found under the shocks for full range of motion. 

I was imagining the servo would be mounted like this if it were possible, or be rotated another 90 Deg clockwise from this and use the current bellcrank (forgive the terrible pic - best I could do on me mobile!)

Untitled1_20210815233104.png.2bcd34e1258f8b3050207d93316c1960.png

  • Like 2
Posted
22 minutes ago, BuggyGuy said:

I was imagining the servo would be mounted like this if it were possible, or be rotated another 90 Deg clockwise from this and use the current bellcrank (forgive the terrible pic - best I could do on me mobile!)

Untitled1_20210815233104.png.2bcd34e1258f8b3050207d93316c1960.png

That totally clarified your concept. Eliminate the bellcrank, and there might be enough room for the ESC and a full driver.

Posted
11 hours ago, BuggyGuy said:

(probably wouldn't need a low profile servo then either)

You need a low profile otherwise!?! 

Low profile and off road, don't normally go well together.

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