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TurboTimmy

Looking For Rear Wheel Drive On Road Chassis-1/10 Scale

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I've been looking around for a decent rear wheel drive r/c on road platform for a new project. I see that RJSpeed still makes several, but their lack of real suspension  limits the real performance of the car. I have one of their Diggers and it's a fun car, but it's more suited to indoor tracks. Is there anything out there that I can purchase and use for parking lot bashing with some kind of separate Poly body? I'm not really interested in a 4wd touring car chassis.Thanks for any info.

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Tamiya M-06 or M-08 chassis are inexpensive and fun on-road bashers.  

Many are sold with bodies and some without.  I only have M06.  But it can be shortened or stretched to the wheelbase of (210mm/225mm/239mm).  Because of that, they can fit many bodies.  I think M-08 can also have different spacers to have the exact same 3 wheelbases.  (Below is my M06 built years ago)

SO3APYu.jpg

M-08 is newer, but I've heard that it's much more spinnable, or donutable (are they even words?).  I thought it would be less so because the motor is in front of the rear wheels.  (M06 has the motor behind the rear wheels, M08 has the motor in front of the rear wheels in more of a midship configuration.)

Anyway, M06 and M08 are two excellent starting points for on-road RWD chassis.  

aziofrw.jpg

 

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Aside from the M-Chassis and pan-cars, drift cars are the only rear wheel drive 1/10 cars I’ve seen.  It may be worth your efforts to acquire a touring car and remove the front drivetrain to achieve the rwd you’re looking for.

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Maybe this doesn't answer your question directly, however Masami Hirosaka and his dad have a vlog on their youtube channel about this.   It is in Japanese with English subtitles.

 

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It isn't an off-the-shelf solution but you could look at an old M04.

You would need to fabricate spacers to get the wheelbase you require.

TL01 / TL01LA arms for the correct track width.

One of these for the front dampers

https://www.shapeways.com/product/YJHU2GNJY/tamiya-m04-wide-front-shocktower

If you want to go a bit 911 you can buy a spacer that flips the rear drivetrain and gives you the correct wheelbase

https://www.shapeways.com/product/3QSDJUYSW/tamiya-m04rr-xl-conversion-spacer?optionId=42906733&li=shops

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Pretty much all current drift chassis are RWD. Any of them will convert well to a touringcar style suspension.

Or check out the MST TC-R chassis. Super basic and can be converted from FWD to mid-motor or rear-motor RWD and actually handles really well.

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Thanks for all the replies. I am, however, curious as to how many folks out there have used the RJSpeed 3.2 Pan Car as a basher. I realize that I did say that I wasn't really interested in one, but I have read other forums and some people have liked them for that purpose. There are some areas of very smooth pavement near my home that might accommodate it. But I will also look into drift chassis and the others that were mentioned.

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There is the possibility of using a RWD buggy and converting it to on-road using shorter shocks and TC wheels/tyres.

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5 hours ago, TurboTimmy said:

Thanks for all the replies. I am, however, curious as to how many folks out there have used the RJSpeed 3.2 Pan Car as a basher. I realize that I did say that I wasn't really interested in one, but I have read other forums and some people have liked them for that purpose. There are some areas of very smooth pavement near my home that might accommodate it. But I will also look into drift chassis and the others that were mentioned.

Yes!  I have built a few RJ Speed Sport 3.2 over the years and was never really happy with the kit foam tires in the street.  However, I finished another one some time ago with a 962-style shell and used F104 soft rubber tires on it instead.  I found it very enjoyable to drive with a silver can and 3:1 gearing; it wiggled just a little under hard braking but was otherwise planted.

I 3D-printed the wheels designed from the original foam wheels and F104 wheels, so that gave me some latitude on offset and mixing metric and imperial parts together. But if you want to avoid that, maybe a set of World GTR rubber tires/wheels from CRC would make a good substitute.  I didn't buy or test them because they are a bit pricey, and they didn't fit the scheme on the 962 shell.  I've also heard of people using sections of bicycle tubes to wrap the foam tires.

I'm only guessing the soft compound of the F104 tires, combined with the ~1mm air gap between the tire and the inner foam, gave it the grip/contact patch/compliance needed to stick and handle some small bumps in the asphalt.  I did take my time polishing the front kingpins and drilling the knuckles ever so slightly to get smooth, but slop-free front suspension movement.  I also run the rear suspension with as little preload as possible.

Out of the box, the Sport 3.2 likely won't bring you much joy bashing it in the street or parking lot.  But if you put some extra care into the build and put some soft rubber tires on it, it seems to work pretty well.  Keep in mind it's a 254/260/266 mm wheelbase, 200 mm width chassis, so that will affect your body choices a little bit.

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Try a Yokomo YD-2E. It's about as close to a RC10 DS as you'll find today, and a nice high quality kit at a reasonable price.

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7 hours ago, TurboTimmy said:

Thanks for all the replies. I am, however, curious as to how many folks out there have used the RJSpeed 3.2 Pan Car as a basher. I realize that I did say that I wasn't really interested in one, but I have read other forums and some people have liked them for that purpose. There are some areas of very smooth pavement near my home that might accommodate it. But I will also look into drift chassis and the others that were mentioned.

How about taking virtually any TC chassis and removing the prop shaft (or front belt), front diff and axles? This will make an awesome rwd car that will fit any 1/10 body with zero r&d work and will fit the bill, especially for simple parking lot fun.

Of course if one of the m chassis bodies is of interest to you then the M02, 04 (if you can find them), 06 & 08 are perfect as others have suggested already.

I did not quite understood  which body you had in mind?

Also the F103GT is currently the only RWD purpose built on road chassis in Tamiya’s linup and the ride height can be set high enough for parking lot use. It might have body width limitations.

 Then there are other cool projects that are actually on my bucket list:

- F104 with custom lower deck to achieve the wheelbase of your choice
- Xpress FT1S which is fwd front motor but I’m pretty sure can be flipped to become rwd rear motor with minimal effort and drilling etc.

- TL01 which can also be flipped to become rwd using knuckles in place of the rear uprights (it’s been done)

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Thanks for all the responses....I might just try both a pan car (since I've been dying to build one with a 962 body) and a converted 4wd tc chassis with an NSU TT body (although a tc chassis wheelbase will determine what body I use).........I will keep y'all posted!!!

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18 hours ago, Big Jon said:

Try a Yokomo YD-2E. It's about as close to a RC10 DS as you'll find today, and a nice high quality kit at a reasonable price.

yup, I wanted to say the same. seems like the only decent brand rwd.

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We run a RWD class at a local club. The best chassis to make 2WD is the TL-01. Its got its own rear gearbox. You just remove the prop an the front gearbox. Its much more efficient than the TT01/TT02 cars with no prop. Add more weight on the rear bumper and it's a brilliant car to drive around. 

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My friends and I race (unprofessionally) RJ Speed Legends cars.  They are not good bashers, nor do they grip well on asphalt.  The front A-arm assembly is delicate. Callandra rubber slicks yield improved traction, but not much to make it corner well.  The slicks also dry and crack if not cared for.  The chassis is comparable to pan-car handling on asphalt; the slightest change in throttle/brake will make the tail spin out.  It will not keep up with anything that has oil-filled independent suspension.
The RJ Speed will however make you a much better driver. You’ll be forced to learn to brake smoothly prior to turning and to control throttle in the curves.  It will be a frustrating process to learn that the throttle control is not a on/off switch, but as a driver you will improve drastically.

I would not regard it as a “fun car”, but more as a fantastic tool to hone your driving skill.

96BB874D-73DE-4204-9D02-1AD0371B9BB0.jpeg

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Here's my RJSpeed Digger-today I decided to replace the fragile front steering rods with ones from a Traxxas....I also put a stock 540 back in it because the Sport Tuned motor was just beating the heck out of it......A Tamiya servo mount was necessary after realizing that the steering input forces were now much higher, making the servo dance on its two sided tape mount......That's what the screw is on the front "suspension" that you see just above the linkage.....

100_0312.JPG

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Does your Digger have the original solid non-diff axle, or have you changed it out for a Legends or Sport 3.2 ball diff axle?  I put a Sport 3.2 ball diff axle assembly in a Digger, and it made turning that much better.

Also, I saw this video some time ago and enjoyed the craziness of it.  Castle 5700kV motor on 2S LiPo in a Digger:

 

  • Haha 3

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2 hours ago, speedy_w_beans said:

Does your Digger have the original solid non-diff axle, or have you changed it out for a Legends or Sport 3.2 ball diff axle?  I put a Sport 3.2 ball diff axle assembly in a Digger, and it made turning that much better.

Also, I saw this video some time ago and enjoyed the craziness of it.  Castle 5700kV motor on 2S LiPo in a Digger:

 

I actually just got 2 bolink diggers from one of my high school teachers, and I ordered a brushless system for one. Looks like I'll have a fun time with it based on that video. 

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I actually did try the differential-but I'm not quite sure how to set it up. Any input will be greatly appreciated.

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I set my ball diff as loose as possible without having it slip. You know when it slips because of the ugly sound it makes under hard acceleration. The trick is that once it slips it's probably damaged so it takes some experimentations.

One way of knowing how tight it is is to make a pen mark on one rim then quickly flip that wheel while holding the opposite wheel. Aim for one full turn out whatever seems to be the sweet spot. This technique merely helps achieve repeatability.

Bottom line is perhaps not to think of them as a tuning aid. They're either properly adjusted or they're not. Hope it helps, different people will have different inputs on this.

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On 6/26/2021 at 7:44 PM, speedy_w_beans said:

Does your Digger have the original solid non-diff axle, or have you changed it out for a Legends or Sport 3.2 ball diff axle?  I put a Sport 3.2 ball diff axle assembly in a Digger, and it made turning that much better.

Also, I saw this video some time ago and enjoyed the craziness of it.  Castle 5700kV motor on 2S LiPo in a Digger:

 

lol... That was one of the best sound editing I've ever seen!  Just awesome. 

 

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Well, I found the diff axle in my parts inventory and re-installed it. I turned the 11mm nut counter-clockwise and it seemed to loosen up the diff. It's not so loose that I can spin one wheel while holding the other without some resistance-but it made a noticeable change in the Digger's ability to turn corners. I hope I did it correctly......

I also think that returning to a stock 540 silver can helped some as well. The kit was designed for that motor and lots of folks likely have one or two unused stock 540 motors because we always upgrade our Tamiya kits and never use the standard 540 in the kit. So I'm showing the Silver Can some love.......

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