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The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures

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23 minutes ago, RichieRich said:

Yes, put the black o-rings in. For the rear, I used the ball end in the shock manual. The td4's instructions are a little fuzzy, but I interpreted it as build the rear shocks per the shock manual's instructions and make no changes.

Yes. On the shock manual, it depends how many black orings you put in on whether you set it up for Df03 (1 oring) or tt02b (3 orings ). Which did you do? 

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34 minutes ago, rwordenjr said:

Yes. On the shock manual, it depends how many black orings you put in on whether you set it up for Df03 (1 oring) or tt02b (3 orings ). Which did you do? 

OH! Sorry, duh. I built the stock shocks first and matched the lengths. I think I put 3 o-rings in the rear and 1 in the front. I may not be remembering correctly but I know I matched or came super close to the same lengths.

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27 minutes ago, RichieRich said:

OH! Sorry, duh. I built the stock shocks first and matched the lengths. I think I put 3 o-rings in the rear and 1 in the front. I may not be remembering correctly but I know I matched or came super close to the same lengths.

Okay thanks. I put no black orings on rear and I’m finding the shocks are real long. I have to adjust the spring tension very low to make the spring tight. If I lift the car up, the rear springs are real loose. I also used the bottom end adjusters on the rear that the manual calls for. The x1 followed by the spacer. 

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1 hour ago, rwordenjr said:

Okay thanks. I put no black orings on rear and I’m finding the shocks are real long. I have to adjust the spring tension very low to make the spring tight. If I lift the car up, the rear springs are real loose. I also used the bottom end adjusters on the rear that the manual calls for. The x1 followed by the spacer. 

Yeah, I think you're going to need to insert the o-rings in the back. 

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5 minutes ago, RichieRich said:

Yeah, I think you're going to need to insert the o-rings in the back. 

Okay thanks. Only question is 1,2, or 3. Per the manual, 3 is for Tt02b. 0 is Df03 so I’ll have to take apart few times and test 

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10 minutes ago, rwordenjr said:

Okay thanks. Only question is 1,2, or 3. Per the manual, 3 is for Tt02b. 0 is Df03 so I’ll have to take apart few times and test 

I just pulled my shocks off to measure. The stock rear shock, when assembled is 101mm long end-to-end. I used three black o-rings to get the 54993s to 100mm. 

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22 minutes ago, RichieRich said:

I just pulled my shocks off to measure. The stock rear shock, when assembled is 101mm long end-to-end. I used three black o-rings to get the 54993s to 100mm. 

Thanks !!!!! And you’re using the stock manual ends ? The x1 with the little spacer part ? On the front, how many o ring did you use?

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47 minutes ago, rwordenjr said:

Thanks !!!!! And you’re using the stock manual ends ? The x1 with the little spacer part ? On the front, how many o ring did you use?

Yes, the X1 with the little spacer part. For the front, the stock plastic shock is 87mm end-to-end. I'm fairly certain I only used one o-ring on the fronts to make them 87mm long. 

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Still $314 and change at Tower but there's a $45 off coupon that can be applied. If you preordered back in July, Tower had a $50 off coupon.

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On 1/2/2022 at 9:54 PM, matisse said:

I watched this and have never wanted to write a comment more. It has issues, all cars do, SOLVE THEM.  Jeez stop whinging, solve the problems or move on. 
 

rant over 

Would thend to agree if the guy would have made building mistakes.

To me it sounds more like another design flaw (build in hop up requirement to sell more stuf). A need to shim a new kit and do trial and error is acceptable? With a 1:1 car I'm sure the manufacturer will fix this under warranty.

Anyway, will sit it out for a while. Would like to build it first time right so will see based on more experience here what solutions to include straight away.

(and have a Lazer ZX5 underway...)

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2 hours ago, Boomerang89 said:

Would thend to agree if the guy would have made building mistakes.

To me it sounds more like another design flaw (build in hop up requirement to sell more stuf). A need to shim a new kit and do trial and error is acceptable? With a 1:1 car I'm sure the manufacturer will fix this under warranty.

Anyway, will sit it out for a while. Would like to build it first time right so will see based on more experience here what solutions to include straight away.

(and have a Lazer ZX5 underway...)

But it’s not a 1:1 car and you can’t compare the two. And even then, are 1:1 cars as precise and accurate as some expect £300 toys to be (and then probs think it’s overpriced)….

extending the metaphor, does every manufacturer or pretty much any product not follow the same pattern of makin a base model, and selling upgrades packages/parts/versions which offer enhanced abilities that are beyond most of the consumers and/or are purely aesthetic? Do we see the same argument on camera/av/car/computer forums? (Legit question tbh)  I know for sure that in the cycling world this whole concept is very common and accepted.

The base model works fine, it really does, and if you want to alter and/or upgrade it go for your life. I will, and I won’t be shy about sharing what I do so others can benefit from it.

 

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24 minutes ago, matisse said:

But it’s not a 1:1 car and you can’t compare  

The base model works fine, it really does, and if you want to alter and/or upgrade it go for your life. I will, and I won’t be shy about sharing what I do so others can benefit from it.

 

Off course you can't compare completely, its just to make a point.

However a 300 euro bicycle from which the chain falls off while accelerating  and not shifting gears is quite comparable with dog bones falling out as the guy describes. Not acceptable for a 300 euro bike. Also not acceptable imho for a 300 euro toy. Both should work.

So hope you are right though. And 1 case isnt a case as for the moment it's only this guy in the video stating them falling out with servo limiter in place and shims in place.

Looking forward to see more experiences.

 

 

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Started a little thread to collect fixes and mods for the TD chassis buggies:

 

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Done(ish):

I used a Rawspeed RC body intended for the TLR 22 5.0. Paint is Tamiya PS 53 -> 59 -> 23, top to back. 
It’s not a perfect fit, but it’s the least ugly of the cab forward shells. It doesn’t extend down the tub walls as far as I’d hoped, and the back of the tub is not covered. I was hoping the nose was curved down more. Maybe a heat gun can fix that.  But it was $18, so I’m not complaining. Next weekend I’ll run it!

C9E45AD3-1838-40B4-A7C9-34EAE78F5487.jpeg

C10C54F9-CBA1-4FF9-B800-38F5DA286F49.jpeg

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If anyone is wondering if the VQS Hi-Cap dampers fit out of the box the answer is yes. For the fronts you either swap the shaft to the kit CVA shaft or fit a longer ball end connector to get the proper eye to eye. The stroke is long enough. 

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11 hours ago, tamiya3speed said:

@BelknapCrater where did you get those wheels?  Love them!

AE dirt oval wheels. Cheap ($10/pair), but flexy. J Concepts sells the 9 Shot in a 2.2 that’s really cool looking.

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Black Pink edition :D

 

IMG_6546.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=

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Pink rims are impossible to find. Black rims on the way from HK. Pink stickers for the main logo on the way from Canada.

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24 minutes ago, joeling said:

Black Pink edition :D

 

IMG_6543.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=

Pink rims are impossible to find. Black rims on the way from HK. Pink stickers for the main logo on the way from Canada.

Looks amazing! 

Have you thought about dying the white rims pink? I dyed my Super Astute rims pink using Rit Super Pink dye and I reckon that could be a good match.

 

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23 minutes ago, jonboy1 said:

Looks amazing! 

Have you thought about dying the white rims pink? I dyed my Super Astute rims pink using Rit Super Pink dye and I reckon that could be a good match.

 

jonboy1,

 

Are you saying this white wheel can be dyed ? Thanks !

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