The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures

[Killajb]

2 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

And

Apologies, didn't want to hijack this thread but I shared info here:  

 

[jonboy1]

thanks @Killajb - that's a great review and well worth having a link to from here for everyone's benefit.

[Busdriver]

5 minutes ago, jonboy1 said:

thanks @Killajb - that's a great review and well worth having a link to from here for everyone's benefit.

 

Here here!!

[Howards]

What is the go-to servo for the TD4 and who has them in stock?

[BuggyGuy]

3 hours ago, Howards said:

What is the go-to servo for the TD4 and who has them in stock?

I went Savox low profile with metal gears for mine as they work great in my other cars:

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/savox-sc-1251mg-low-profile-size-servo-36399

[Killajb]

6 hours ago, BuggyGuy said:

I went Savox low profile with metal gears for mine as they work great in my other cars:

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/savox-sc-1251mg-low-profile-size-servo-36399

Same here, and aside from being a little noisy (if that sort of thing bothers you) it's quite nice.

[Howards]

Nice one, thanks.

[Cynan]

Finished my electric install today. Routed the ESC to receiver wire down and round the steering servo mount, across the bottom of the chassis to the receiver and stuck it down with some tape like you do for the steering receiver.

Popped in a battery and found that the wires just get in the way if they are at the front, so routed them to the back. Will be shortening the ESC battery wire soon.

I also used 3M Dual Lock for the receiver but it’s too thick and the steering catches on the top. I might switch the receiver round to clear it or swap the 3M Dual Lock for tape.

 

Oh and the steering servo still moves even with the hop up mounts. Those 3D printer ones sound the way to go.

[Mtbikewv]

5 hours ago, Cynan said:

Finished my electric install today. Routed the ESC to receiver wire down and round the steering servo mount, across the bottom of the chassis to the receiver and stuck it down with some tape like you do for the steering receiver.

Popped in a battery and found that the wires just get in the way if they are at the front, so routed them to the back. Will be shortening the ESC battery wire soon.

I also used 3M Dual Lock for the receiver but it’s too thick and the steering catches on the top. I might switch the receiver round to clear it or swap the 3M Dual Lock for tape.

 

Oh and the steering servo still moves even with the hop up mounts. Those 3D printer ones sound the way to go.

@Cynan see if these SLT files work for the servo mounts.  They may require some fine sanding to fit depending on your printer.  I used Black ABS plastic.

Servo mount 2.SLDPRT Servo mount.SLDPRT

[toyolien]

Is the servo moving a problem? Does it move under normal use, or just when turning the front wheels by hand?

[rwordenjr]

8 minutes ago, toyolien said:

Is the servo moving a problem? Does it move under normal use, or just when turning the front wheels by hand?

It’s not an issue. I’ve had many cars (more high quality than Tamiyas) and the servo flexing while not moving isn’t a problem.

[toyolien]

Just now, rwordenjr said:

It’s not an issue. I’ve had many cars (more high quality than Tamiyas) and the servo flexing while not moving isn’t a problem.

Thank you. I thought as much. My B6.3 servo does the same when you move the wheels by hand. But driving it, it's incredibly precise. 

[rwordenjr]

Just now, toyolien said:

Thank you. I thought as much. My B6.3 servo does the same when you move the wheels by hand. But driving it, it's incredibly precise. 

Yup. Tamiyas do it, Traxxas does it, Team Associated’s do it. 

[Killajb]

@Cynan I had the same issues attempting to use dual-lock tape, as I have an identical layout with the receiver placement.  Ended up using double-sided tape to clear everything, as well.. I used a shorty lipo in order to route the servo wire in the position advised by the manual.  Can remove/install the shorter battery without issue.

**side note**  the first time I ran with the shorty lipo, there was a lot of understeer. I ended up adding stick-on weights one-by-one and testing until the car seemed balanced again.

[tamiya3speed]

Anybody that ordered the slipper from a US source get any updates yet?  My universals, servo mounts, and diff screws shipped from Tower 12/3 and are almost here (new record, 6 days and counting Illinois to Ohio which for those that don’t know is about six hours one way drive, i could have walked it quicker).  

Nothing on the slipper yet though.

[RichieRich]

Something weird is going on with the slipper. It doesn't even come up as available for purchase at Tamiya USA. The slipper I ordered is still on backorder at Tower too.

[tamiya3speed]

20 minutes ago, RichieRich said:

Something weird is going on with the slipper. It doesn't even come up as available for purchase at Tamiya USA. The slipper I ordered is still on backorder at Tower too.

Yeah, it completely disappeared from the site yesterday!  Showed back up today though.  Not going to start anything until I can get that slipper.  But who am I kidding.  I have too many unfinished projects as is so no doubt I won’t start right away anyway.

[BloodClod]

On 12/7/2021 at 11:39 PM, jonboy1 said:

so, has anyone on here actually run theirs yet?

I've given mine a shakedown run. On a dirt track the car feels very balanced and was a nice drive. Like I mentioned before, I think the stock oils give a nice plush feel and is pretty spot on for bashing but may be a tad light if you want a bit more race performance. In stock form I feel the car is a little "floaty" around corners as the chassis rolls quite a bit.

I didn't run it hard on astro as I've had bad experiences with Tamiyas running high-grip without a slipper (my slipper is on the way). But what light running I did the car felt good and seemed like a good base to start tuning on.

One thing I noted is how severely limited the stock steering setup is with all the steering limiters on the front hubs. I took all the spacers off and currently am running just a screw in there as a limiter. I'm inclined to even remove the screw but I think that would potentially cause problems with the driveshaft popping out.

I've run the DF03 before and in my opinion this car is a better base than that. The plastics are superior and out of box performance is better overall. It doesn't seem to have the same setting parameters as a DB01 so in terms of race pedigree it may not be on par with that. But overall the first impression is that the TD4 is a really great mid-tier chassis that is unique, good for mods, durable and capable of decent running at the local club in the right hands. 

... and oh, it has a driver and a futuristic console, so it must drive well!

[Busdriver]

It’s interesting to read some of the comments coming out since people have actually got hold of and built one. Bearing in mind some 24 pages ago this was the devil incarnate it seems to be emerging from the underworld. I’ve even seen phrases as “better than” used. 👹➡️😇

[Howards]

Interesting servo placement here around 20 minuets in. 

 

[Cynan]

8 hours ago, Killajb said:

@Cynan I had the same issues attempting to use dual-lock tape, as I have an identical layout with the receiver placement.  Ended up using double-sided tape to clear everything, as well.. I used a shorty lipo in order to route the servo wire in the position advised by the manual.  Can remove/install the shorter battery without issue.

**side note**  the first time I ran with the shorty lipo, there was a lot of understeer. I ended up adding stick-on weights one-by-one and testing until the car seemed balanced again.

I’ve left the DualLock in but the receiver is now sitting face up. It just fit!

 

1 hour ago, BloodClod said:

.One thing I noted is how severely limited the stock steering setup is with all the steering limiters on the front hubs. I took all the spacers off and currently am running just a screw in there as a limiter. I'm inclined to even remove the screw but I think that would potentially cause problems with the driveshaft popping out.

Yeah I’ve done the same.

[Cynan]

4 minutes ago, Howards said:

Interesting servo placement here around 20 minuets in. 

 

Yeah.. I never really thought about this though their are hopes predrilled. I would have had to make the servo and ESC wires shorter though doing it this way 

I do like how it’s done away with all the linkage that you have to remove when taking the battery in/out. I wonder why Tamiya didn’t do this layout ?

[sosidge]

13 hours ago, toyolien said:

Thank you. I thought as much. My B6.3 servo does the same when you move the wheels by hand. But driving it, it's incredibly precise. 

My B6.3 servo doesn't move at all when you turn the steering by hand.

Flexing servo mounts are not good, it means that some of the energy of the servo is just being wasted on twisting the mounts, but to be honest unless it is the kind of flex that allows the servo to get stuck out of position during a run, you've not going to notice it. And the TD4 has extra linkages that take precision out of the system as well. 

[Howards]

2 hours ago, BloodClod said:

It doesn't seem to have the same setting parameters as a DB02 so in terms of race pedigree it may not be on par with that.

As far as I've heard, the DB02 handled poorly so no loss there! 

What's missing though? 

[Cynan]

It’s not the mounts that flex but the chassis where they are screwed too. I’m using the Alu hop up mounts and turning the wheels by hand I can see the servo move.

Other than using custom made mounts (thanks again for the STLs) the other option I guess is to pad the bottom of the servo so it sits flush on the chassis floor.