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The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures

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13 minutes ago, BloodClod said:

I found that on a high grip surface that really tests a transmission, the bevel gears that transmit power to the center shaft started to skip, which resulted in a clicking sound. I inspected the gears after and found some of the teeth a bit deformed because of this. This was with the slipper at a loose setting.

 

IIRC the DB02 metal bevel gears are a direct replacement. 

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23 hours ago, Howards said:

IIRC the DB02 metal bevel gears are a direct replacement. 

That's brilliant! Unfortunately it appears these gears are pretty hard to track down now. 

If I'm desperate I may strip them out from my Leonis while I hunt for a set. But thanks for the helpful info! :)

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If anyone else is having issues with the plastic kit diff nut, after experimenting with DN01 N parts plastic nut and Durga DB01 K parts plastic / metal nut, both work, the later needs the tabs thinning down before it will fit the outdrive.  

EF01EFDB-9990-4646-9249-DA1A0CF70CAA.png

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my new built td4 arrived and i was inspecting it.. there is like a 2mm hole in the center of the K5 part. It's not a perfectly cut out hole, it's like chipped away. trying to see what options are to plug it 

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16 hours ago, BloodClod said:

That's brilliant! Unfortunately it appears these gears are pretty hard to track down now. 

If I'm desperate I may strip them out from my Leonis while I hunt for a set. But thanks for the helpful info! :)

There are TA06 steel bevel gear and cross pin upgrades easily available. 54311 for cross pins (which will probably be enough strength on its own) and 54428 for steel bevel gears. The TA06 gear diff upgrade 54471 comes with steel internals as standard. Not sure why that isn't the TD4 offer. 

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7 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

There are TA06 steel bevel gear and cross pin upgrades easily available. 54311 for cross pins (which will probably be enough strength on its own) and 54428 for steel bevel gears. The TA06 gear diff upgrade 54471 comes with steel internals as standard. Not sure why that isn't the TD4 offer. 

Thanks for this. The bevel gear I'm referring to is the one used to transfer power to the center shaft and not the ones in the diffs. It's these bevels that are hard to track down. :)

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41 minutes ago, Boomerang89 said:

Makes me wonder whether to start building mine or wait for all issues to be indentified and solved.

That's what I'm doing. Got the kit and several hop ups but not happy with a few things. Debating whether to hold on to it and see, or move it on and build something else. Hopefully the td2 will be better...

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The td2 will be the same mostly- just have less access issues with the battery and servo mounting less flex.

my TD4 has been running great on 10.5 brushless. No issues with the drive shafts and have removed the limiters. Universals to go in when they finally arrive. Diffs and slipper fine and used shims throughout the build. Have not yet the metal diff nuts, fine for now but will replace them later.

was tricky to install electrics!

 

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2 hours ago, Boomerang89 said:

ZX5 and TD4 running the same track. TD4 seems more stable.

God my fave 4wd buggy ever, should never have sold it….

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3 hours ago, Boomerang89 said:

makes me wonder whether to start building mine or wait for all issues to be indentified and solved.

Nice rims on the car.

I watched this and have never wanted to write a comment more. It has issues, all cars do, SOLVE THEM.  Jeez stop whinging, solve the problems or move on. 
 

rant over 

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43 minutes ago, Alangt4 said:

The td2 will be the same mostly- just have less access issues with the battery and servo mounting less flex.

my TD4 has been running great on 10.5 brushless. No issues with the drive shafts and have removed the limiters. Universals to go in when they finally arrive. Diffs and slipper fine and used shims throughout the build. Have not yet the metal diff nuts, fine for now but will replace them later.

was tricky to install electrics!

 

How much did you shim the diffs?

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12 minutes ago, matisse said:

I watched this and have never wanted to write a comment more. It has issues, all cars do, SOLVE THEM.  Jeez stop whinging, solve the problems of move on. 
 

rant over 

Honestly, same. I didn't like the battery placement and removal process, so I changed it. I didn't like the steering linkage, so I changed it. I didn't like the shell, so I changed it. Didn't like the front dogbones, so I changed them. I'm not crazy about the flexy rear shock tower, so I'll change that next.

I can't help it, I'm a tinkerer. This is not a limited edition thing, so I'll start hacking and go until I'm happy.

BUT- not everybody is. Some just want it to drive as-is, so I try to appreciate their criticisms. They may have to wait for a later release to solve those criticisms.

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3 minutes ago, BelknapCrater said:

Honestly, same. I didn't like the battery placement and removal process, so I changed it. I didn't like the steering linkage, so I changed it. I didn't like the shell, so I changed it. Didn't like the front dogbones, so I changed them. I'm not crazy about the flexy rear shock tower, so I'll change that next.

I can't help it, I'm a tinkerer. This is not a limited edition thing, so I'll start hacking and go until I'm happy.

BUT- not everybody is. Some just want it to drive as-is, so I try to appreciate their criticisms. They may have to wait for a later release to solve those criticisms.

Agree, it’s where the need to create content collides with the different parts of the hobby.

But, Tamiya knows what’s it’s doing, the test drivers and engineers will be amongst the best, so they do these things for a reason do they not?But even the best still miss things and pretty  much every car ever had had a design issue or flaw that is exposed by the public. Separating and identifying what is a flaw and what is be design is another issue.

intersted to know which body your using?

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28 minutes ago, matisse said:

How much did you shim the diffs?

Not sure sorry… I just had a mixed set of various shims and used them throughout so all felt ok to me,

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8 minutes ago, Alangt4 said:

Not sure sorry… I just had a mixed set of various shims and used them throughout so all felt ok to me,

Ah well, thanks bud

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3 hours ago, matisse said:

How much did you shim the diffs?

I used 0.3mm shims both sides of the diff on top of the shims in the manual for both F/R. Bought a pack of Tamiya shims & it comes with multiple pieces of 0.1mm, 0.2mm & 0.3mm shims.

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I wonder what is wrong that is making the front dog bones pop under acceleration. That really shouldn’t happen with a correctly assembled kit. 
 

I looked at using DB01/TRF buggy UJs. They are close. Haven’t tried fitting them, when I do I’ll report back. 
 

They will go in but it might mean using rear pin drive or the slimline TRF hex drives.

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4 hours ago, Howards said:

I wonder what is wrong that is making the front dog bones pop under acceleration. That really shouldn’t happen with a correctly assembled kit. 
 

I looked at using DB01/TRF buggy UJs. They are close. Haven’t tried fitting them, when I do I’ll report back. 
 

They will go in but it might mean using rear pin drive or the slimline TRF hex drives.

Yeah I’m not sure- I shimmed the hinge pins and checked the wheels were balanced reasonably well. I reckon some extra vibration from that combination when that is not done would be enough to throw the dog ones out a little. Mine seem still well in the cups as I move suspension and steering lock.

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2 hours ago, rwordenjr said:

Anyone put the tt02b/Df03 shocks on the td4 yet ? How did you set the shocks up internally ? 

I built mine with the three hole white piston in the rear and the two hole white piston in the front. I also used the green damper oil that came with the set. Who knows, it may need adjusting but I figured this was a good starting point.

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9 minutes ago, RichieRich said:

I built mine with the three hole white piston in the rear and the two hole white piston in the front. I also used the green damper oil that came with the set. Who knows, it may need adjusting but I figured this was a good starting point.

Okay, so far that’s how I did it. Did you put the black orings in the shock cylinders? And what ends did you use for rear ? The front is v6 per td4 back of manual but the rear isn’t stated 

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6 minutes ago, rwordenjr said:

Okay, so far that’s how I did it. Did you put the black orings in the shock cylinders? And what ends did you use for rear ? The front is v6 per td4 back of manual but the rear isn’t stated 

Yes, put the black o-rings in. For the rear, I used the ball end in the shock manual. The td4's instructions are a little fuzzy, but I interpreted it as build the rear shocks per the shock manual's instructions and make no changes.

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