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The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures

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Well done:). Pics like these are making the TD4 grow on me. It is astonishing how much nicer the TD4/TD2 is looking, when you paint a roof on the canopy. Less spaceship/fighter jet and more car. 

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On 6/5/2022 at 5:46 AM, BloodClod said:

Hey guys, finally had some time to try some ideas I've been toying around with for the TD4...over the weekend I designed a battery mounting system.

To be honest, the stock system isn't really that bad IMO, after some getting used to it really isn't that hard. That said, I wanted to see if I could work out a system that:
(i) would easily fit a shorty pack
(ii) would be easier to install and remove (hopefully without a hex driver or even snap pins)
(iii) would allow me to still run the driver figure (which I really like)
(iv) would not require any cutting or mods to the chassis itself

One added plus to this mounting system is that the space in front of the chassis next to the steering servo is now empty...Let me know what you think. I have some mods to test out to improve the dust seal of the gearbox too - this is a real pet peeve of mine with offroad cars with gearboxes that don't effectively seal out dirt.

I've been considering doing something similar (especially considering the TD4 kit includes the TD2 parts for that area)...but, since I don't have a 3D printer, I'll have to come up with something different.  Until I do, the idea I already have will work.

As for sealing the gearbox, I've done this with other vehicles in different ways - electrical tape, thin foam tape, creating a (very thin) rubber 'gasket', rubbing a light layer of dielectric grease over the seam - all of which have worked.    In regards to the TD4, as I haven't yet run mine, I don't yet know where dirt might enter, thus don't know which of my 'techniques' might work best.  If you haven't already solved the problem on your vehicle, you might try one (or some) of the methods I use.

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Like a lot of us who've purchased, or considered purchasing, the TD4 Super Avante, the location is the battery tray, and how to insert/remove the battery, isn't exactly "ideal"...which is exactly why a number of TD4 owners have come up with ways of relocating the battery to the position it's in in the TD2 Astute.  The "solution" several have come up with involves designing & 3D printing alternate parts.

Unfortunately, a lot of people (myself, included) don't have 3D printers...so, we have to come up with other ideas.  I'll admit I haven't looked at every alternate battery solution others have come up with...but, one thing I have noticed is that none of them (at least, from those I've seen) have used parts that came with the TD4...especially the side pieces intended for the TD2.  So, I decided to see if using those pieces is even possible.

Obviously, as they come, they can't be used, as they'd cause the buggy body to bow outward approx 1cm on each side.  But...what if they could be modified to work?  So, I decided to give it a shot...and, out came my favorite power tool for RC use - my Dremel.  After removing a little at a time & testing, removing some more & testing again, and so forth, I ended up with what you see below.  In all 4 images, the part on the left is the factory part, while the part on the right is the modded part.  Yes, the body does still bow outward...but, by only 1-2mm.

I realize that, by removing so much from the outer side, it would be exposing the ends of the battery...but, if I glue in a piece of closed-cell foam, it will not only protect the ends of the battery, but will also allow 'shorty' packs to be used without them sliding side-to-side.  No need to constantly 'move' the shock tower, and now there's plenty room to install the ESC & Rx up front...all without having to design/print new parts.

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Just a quick add-on/update to my previous post.

After testing, to see if the above-mentioned mod will truly work, and determining it will, I modded the chassis pan & cross brace, to allow the use of battery posts.  After those had been done, I put everything in place (minus the closed-cell foam blocks, which I still have to cut), including a battery, and this is what it looks like.  At this point, I'm 99.999% certain my idea will work.

20220904_174538.jpg

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Anyone know if the aluminium steering upgrade parts for the TD4 have the same geometry as the stock parts?

And other than removing the stoppers on the front hubs when running universals is there any other way of increasing the steering travel? 

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Rebuilt ready for the first indoor race of the season this coming Sunday. 

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Now running a Muchmore Fleta V2 ESC and a Speed Passion 13.5T motor. Shorty lipo installed up front with some lightweight foam blocks stopping it moving rearward.

It's got DF03 shocks, a Kimbrough servo saver, UJ's, slipper TA06 gear diffs, and alloy servo stays in there too.

Recently fitted the steel bevel gears to the props / gearboxes as well.

Still got rollbars and a set off Schuey/Lunsford titanium turnbuckles with reinforced adjusters to fit.

Not sure what I'll do next to it, it needs to go on a bit of a diet so I think some more alloy and titanium screws are in order, and I'm going to get a carbon brace cut to replace the front shock mount and another for the ESC tray / rear chassis brace. Not sure where else it could easily loose weight from.

I also need to get some alternative slipper pads, as the stock ones don't appear to wear very well

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On 9/19/2022 at 11:43 AM, BuggyGuy said:

Anyone know if the aluminium steering upgrade parts for the TD4 have the same geometry as the stock parts?

And other than removing the stoppers on the front hubs when running universals is there any other way of increasing the steering travel? 

Near as I can tell, they’re identical. It looks like you can do a little creative material removal on the knuckles and caster blocks to get a little more angle, and DB01 knuckles look like they’d have correct geometry. Maybe.

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7 hours ago, BuggyGuy said:

Not sure where else it could easily loose weight from.

Dremel out those chunky A-arms, or find some TRF arms that will/can be made to fit. Dremel back that air hood thing that is part of the gearbox cover/shock tower mount. Omit the exhaust pipe parts. Hack off the transverse battery box mount points if they're never going to be used. Carbon shock tower?

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12 hours ago, BelknapCrater said:

Dremel out those chunky A-arms, or find some TRF arms that will/can be made to fit. Dremel back that air hood thing that is part of the gearbox cover/shock tower mount. Omit the exhaust pipe parts. Hack off the transverse battery box mount points if they're never going to be used. Carbon shock tower?

The TRF201 front arms would be viable to fit I think, but the push rod for the front suspension would need extending about 5mm. Shame they are as rare as hen's teeth!

DB01/TRF501/201 rear arms look like they might be an option at the back, but they have a bit of a gull wing near the rear hub, while the TD4 arms are flat so would need to test how that would impact the rear geometry (might require the XV01 rear hubs with an alternative drive shaft) - but the arms are quite easy to get so probably worth a go.

Carbon shock tower is deffo on list - but the Tamiya version is on back order or not listed at all the European retailers I've checked yet :-(

Exhaust pipes, driver, wheel arch mounts and the rollover bar are already ommited, but not sure I'm ready to take the Dremel to the chassis yet!

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55 minutes ago, BuggyGuy said:

the push rod for the front suspension would need extending about 5mm

Somebody here mentioned using TC upper control turnbuckles- would simultaneously lengthen them and make for adjustments.

 

55 minutes ago, BuggyGuy said:

not sure I'm ready to take the Dremel to the chassis yet!

I took those battery tray ears off without fear, simply because the chassis is new and spares are going to be plentiful for some time.

Also, you could go further and dremel the mounting points for the fender brackets v off of the hubs, because spares are cheap and available.

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Anyone looking for turnbuckles for a TD4 - I'd highly recommend these, about half the cost of Tamiya items, and exceptional quality (Lunsford have been doing this a long time, I had their turnbuckles on an RC10B2)

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Also the TRF tool for fitting reinforced adjusters makes fitting ballcups super easy:

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A notch is present on one side of the turnbuckles so you can orientate them all in the same way more easily:

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Done:

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If you can't source Lunsford items in the right length (try DMS racing or MBModels) then Schumacher is also worth a try - I'm 99% sure they are made by Lunsford anyway and sometimes have a lower RRP and easier availability in the UK at least

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21 hours ago, BuggyGuy said:

Anyone looking for turnbuckles for a TD4 - I'd highly recommend these, about half the cost of Tamiya items, and exceptional quality (Lunsford have been doing this a long time, I had their turnbuckles on an RC10B2)

 

Also the TRF tool for fitting reinforced adjusters makes fitting ballcups super easy:

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Thanks for that. Was considering some Lunsford Ti turnbuckles for my modded Supershot build as well as maybe for my son's TD4 down the line. You've sold me. Gotta order some now. Heh. 

That TRF Reinforced Adjuster tool...is it part # 42186? Am gonna be getting the reinforced adjusters as well for my Supershot, so it only makes sense to have the right tool for them...

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20 minutes ago, EsotericRC said:

Thanks for that. Was considering some Lunsford Ti turnbuckles for my modded Supershot build as well as maybe for my son's TD4 down the line. You've sold me. Gotta order some now. Heh. 

That TRF Reinforced Adjuster tool...is it part # 42186? Am gonna be getting the reinforced adjusters as well for my Supershot, so it only makes sense to have the right tool for them...

Yep #42186 is the one, I wish I'd got one years ago!

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Halfway through first club night with the TD4, so far have broken the rear anti rollbar mount / rear bumper support after getting a gentle tap from another driver. This part will need replacing with something cut from sheet CF I think.

Also have broken a rear hub, I had a spare with me so I'm not out of the running yet, but had 1 DNF of 2 qualifying rounds.

The amount of slop in the car has gone up hugely after about 15 mins of total track time so far :-(

It handles nice on a carpet track and hasn't disgraced itself - it's performance is mainly limited by my lack of talent behind the wheel, limited steering, and I've definitely not fitted a hot enough motor!

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2 hours ago, BuggyGuy said:

Halfway through first club night with the TD4, so far have broken the rear anti rollbar mount / rear bumper support after getting a gentle tap from another driver. This part will need replacing with something cut from sheet CF I think.

Also have broken a rear hub, I had a spare with me so I'm not out of the running yet, but had 1 DNF of 2 qualifying rounds.

The amount of slop in the car has gone up hugely after about 15 mins of total track time so far :-(

It handles nice on a carpet track and hasn't disgraced itself - it's performance is mainly limited by my lack of talent behind the wheel, limited steering, and I've definitely not fitted a hot enough motor!

2 finals down now and 1 to go - rear gearbox sounds like an absolute dog, so will to take it to bits over the next couple of days and see what's broken, I'm guessing the idler gear, but we'll see!

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3 hours ago, BuggyGuy said:

2 finals down now and 1 to go - rear gearbox sounds like an absolute dog, so will to take it to bits over the next couple of days and see what's broken, I'm guessing the idler gear, but we'll see!

Some other notes:

- Though the battery is easy enough to remove, it's not quick enough to do between coming off your race and getting out to marshal. So that's a pain.

- If you have rear stabilizer bars fitted, you can't easily adjust rear camber.

- The stock TD4 wing kinks way to easily, definitely use the lower mounts, and TRF201 or racing wing kit

- This chassis is very hard to work on at an event compared to a proper competition car.

- The front stabilizer mount is not particularly good

 

Things that I'll need to work on before I'll take this back to a track:

- Part B7 is too weak, slight tap from behind broke this (probably need to get one of these in sheet CF)

- Rear hubs are too weak, XV01 carbon reinforced or TRF201 alloy hubs could work here, but will require investigation.

- Slop developed over the event that made it impossible to accurately set camber or toe

- Mounting the servo on the right hand side of the chassis would help reduce steering slop.

- Better mounting spot for an ESC needed in my car, I'm running a shorty lipo in a forward position, so removing the top deck and mounting the ESC on the chassis plate behind the battery could be a good alternative.

- Not enough steering

- Drivetrain has become super rough, suspect the idler gear in the rear gearbox, or wear on the metal bevel gears that will need to be shimmed out.

Not giving up on the TD4, but will definitely be on the bench for a while so I can sort it out. Will move onto a TRF 2WD for racing until then.

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BuggyGuy, some problems was discovered also in TD2 topic. Good information for you i think.

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8 hours ago, BuggyGuy said:

Some other notes:

- Though the battery is easy enough to remove, it's not quick enough to do between coming off your race and getting out to marshal. So that's a pain.

- If you have rear stabilizer bars fitted, you can't easily adjust rear camber.

- The stock TD4 wing kinks way to easily, definitely use the lower mounts, and TRF201 or racing wing kit

- This chassis is very hard to work on at an event compared to a proper competition car.

- The front stabilizer mount is not particularly good

 

Things that I'll need to work on before I'll take this back to a track:

- Part B7 is too weak, slight tap from behind broke this (probably need to get one of these in sheet CF)

- Rear hubs are too weak, XV01 carbon reinforced or TRF201 alloy hubs could work here, but will require investigation.

- Slop developed over the event that made it impossible to accurately set camber or toe

- Mounting the servo on the right hand side of the chassis would help reduce steering slop.

- Better mounting spot for an ESC needed in my car, I'm running a shorty lipo in a forward position, so removing the top deck and mounting the ESC on the chassis plate behind the battery could be a good alternative.

- Not enough steering

- Drivetrain has become super rough, suspect the idler gear in the rear gearbox, or wear on the metal bevel gears that will need to be shimmed out.

Not giving up on the TD4, but will definitely be on the bench for a while so I can sort it out. Will move onto a TRF 2WD for racing until then.

Love the race update. Please keep them coming. Are you using the updated metal bevel gears in the transmission or the sick plastic? In my experience the plastic certainly wouldn't handle hard running on a high grip astroturf track.

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1 hour ago, BloodClod said:

Love the race update. Please keep them coming. Are you using the updated metal bevel gears in the transmission or the sick plastic? In my experience the plastic certainly wouldn't handle hard running on a high grip astroturf track.

I'm using the upgraded metal bevel gears.

Also using the TA06 gear diffs (with steel internals) and the slipper clutch.

Track was high grip carpet

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Posted (edited)

Just rebuilt my TD4 but wanted to have a bit of fun with it!!!! So we have TD4 chassis with Blitzer wheels( rears) with my last set of Dirt hawgs and my version of the Revive body. I had two plans for this. 1 was a P51D Mustang style with nose art or  2 to open up the cockpit and do something unusual. No 2 won. D5CAD995-D1E0-43D0-AED6-E12E737759DF.jpg
6DF0ACAC-BFED-4F5D-934A-1CED738256B9.jpg
BDDF9DA4-8174-40EA-9436-7257D321212E.jpg
Made F1 style side panels for the rear wing and tried to do a fade from yellow to BRG. Happy ish with it. Not sure whether what stickers, if any it needs??? Any suggestions welcome. I will re paint the wheels the same colour.

Update: 21A624B3-5047-4095-B9DB-362D8111F443.jpg
CCF0E6DE-E9BE-4AFC-BE2D-E710C2C559D8.jpg
0729795E-4F0A-4DA5-8D46-885844F340C5.jpg
68958581-8F40-4CBD-A8A8-C7FDEB11F847.jpg

Edited by Busdriver
Missed a bit
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