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nel33

looking for good soldering iron tool under $100

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i purchased a HW1080 ESC and some Xt60 connectors to use on 1 kit. i have an old manual (not digital) soldering iron somewhere thats the cheap version but i cant rely on that one much. im looking for a digital and adjustable one that will work to solder some XT60 connectors for the purpose of charging and connecting to standard tamiya battery (NIMH) plugs. i dont really like the idea of soldering new connectors on the battery as im sure id ruin the battery without good heat control. i see some small portable soldering stands on amazon for under $70, they are a bit overkill in size but the price is ok. what soldering iron is a good purchase to consider? something a bit more portable than a mini station preferably so it doesnt take too much space. its not a rush as im going to run the manta on a 1060 for the time being but the 1080 will help control it even better.

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I am using this over 5 years. I order new tips every now and then.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/372863765883

you can adjust temperature from 200-450C

I solder also directly on battery with it and nothing happend. Just needs to be quick to not overheat the battery.

 

for soldering some battery connectors more then good.

really that is some basic soldering and not herd at all. I dont think you need a expensive iron for that kinda work.

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1 hour ago, Fabia130vRS said:

I am using this over 5 years. I order new tips every now and then.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/372863765883

you can adjust temperature from 200-450C

I solder also directly on battery with it and nothing happend. Just needs to be quick to not overheat the battery.

 

for soldering some battery connectors more then good.

really that is some basic soldering and not herd at all. I dont think you need a expensive iron for that kinda work.

Thank you for the reply, usually cheaply priced tools might not always work too well. IMO it's hit and miss. If that model is as reliable then I have no qualms about it. I think it might need a larger resting base but otherwise I don't see any issues in buying that model. What sort of temps are good to get a good quick connection? I would need to add solder to the wire then join it to the xt60 plugs without singing the plastic too much.

I might need to buy some helping hands but that's an easy thing to get. Which sort of wire should I get to make the adapters?

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local hardware store might have something like weller iron 60watts and get 60/40 solder. right now i use a duratrax tk950 station works amazing got from amainhobbies with discounts  under 100.

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2 hours ago, nel33 said:

Thank you for the reply, usually cheaply priced tools might not always work too well. IMO it's hit and miss. If that model is as reliable then I have no qualms about it. I think it might need a larger resting base but otherwise I don't see any issues in buying that model. What sort of temps are good to get a good quick connection? I would need to add solder to the wire then join it to the xt60 plugs without singing the plastic too much.

I might need to buy some helping hands but that's an easy thing to get. Which sort of wire should I get to make the adapters?

I usually solder around 300-350C 

this small iron gets to temperature really quick, I keep it on 200 when I turn it on, the after 10seconds I turn it to the temp I want. 300C. I always check with the iron tip if the grease does melt. 

I never leave it on for longer period, and always when I am finished I turn it back to 200C and then plug it out.

I left it plugged in by accident for an hour while working on the table, on 200C. Nothing happend. Still working.

As for wires, 12 or 14 AWG wire.

 

also I bought some helping arms with a resting place on them. Like this, I had a magnifier but it was always in the way and not practical. To ensure good stability I glued it with double sides tape to the table.

61u63ZLOPaL._SX342_.jpg

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I had a cheap Banggood 60w iron and solder and always struggled with it.  I upgraded to the Hakko FX 888D and some decent solder (the solder cost me NZ$50 for a roll) and it was life changing.  The heating element in the cheaper irons will struggle to maintain temperature, the Hakko iron keeps the temperature nice and consistent.  I assume you're talking US$100 and the Hakko station is probably around that, then maybe a bit more for a few different tips for different jobs.  No regrets on the purchase as it should last me forever given how little I use it.

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Thank you for the replies, I will see what there is for under 100CAD. The brand names are not well known to me so getting the good brand names to choose from is very useful.

the local hardware store has a 40w weller soldering station for $80, its digital but doesnt have a specific temp reading. 

this one is is usually $60 but is going for  $35 though it doesnt seem to have a sleep mode...

soldering.png

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8 hours ago, nel33 said:

Thank you for the replies, I will see what there is for under 100CAD. The brand names are not well known to me so getting the good brand names to choose from is very useful.

the local hardware store has a 40w weller soldering station for $80, its digital but doesnt have a specific temp reading. 

this one is is usually $60 but is going for  $35 though it doesnt seem to have a sleep mode...

soldering.png

I bought a similar model from hobbyking on sale for 5$ and it is good. I use it for fine technology since it comes with the very narrow tip.

 

as said. You will not regret the first iron I have posted. In my opinion it is important that you can adjust the temperature and change tips. Nothing more.

 

for this hobby.

 

but since you want to spend around 100$, I think this hanmatek would be perfect.

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I have a Hakko that I bought for a bit over $100, but a friend of mine uses an Ebay special soldering station.

He is a professor of electrical engineering and computer science. If it works for him, it ought to be sufficient for anyone.

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I will buy that slim stick one regardless, i dont have a soldering iron in my tool box at work, can't go wrong for that price. If i got any heat retention issues then Hannatek or Weller it is. I'm trying to keep my RC purchases to a minimum where possible.

the slim stick one should arrive in 2-3 days now, at the very least i can have one where the temp control is better than the old one (should i ever locate it again...).

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Everybody is different. But my philosophy on soldering iron is similar to @Fabia130vRS.  They are like tires. They wear out.  You toss it and get another one. 

The green one served me well for 3 year 9 months.  It heated up fast, cooled down fast, worked well even on thick 12 gauge wires. I didn't know the temp, if melted solder fast. That's all I cared.  I soldered a dozen transmitter battery connectors, a dozen ESCs, a dozen batteries over the years.  And then suddenly it stopped working.  I didn't care.  

BH65VEc.jpg

Because it was so cheap, I just ordered another one.  The heating element or the temp control would burn out.  Amazon sells these for $13. (More than double the price Fabia paid on ebay -- the next one will be from ebay!)  Even if I buy it 2 more times, it'll only be $52 for 15 years.  

Oh, yes, I soldered some motors with the old solder too.  

9XkNatx.jpg

Oh, I like using "tip tinner."  Because of it, I never had to replace the tip.  It only costs $3-$4.  

aYtKh8V.jpg

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Yup it in deed is like tires… As said I have mine for 5 years and still going.

I did also solder motors, esc’s and d battery connectors not to mention led light and quad drones etc…

a friend of mine uses it also somewhat around 5 years also. He bought it before me.

 

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thank you for the replies, a coworker's friend has a black colored soldering station which looks very similar to the Weller WE1010NA model not sure if it the same model but apparently is was purchased for $80 back in the day. not sure how long ago that was but it was a good one. im going to stick the slightly cheaper model for now, i dont think i will need to solder too much but its a useful tool to have around.

just ordered some tip thinner now to save the tip a bit more.

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I have used this about 7 years. last year the handle ceramic bit broke. So ordered a new station again.

Love it. get thicker tips for it thought if you buy one.  -I like to use the small included bit for plastic welding and cutting.

Different outlet styles available, if eu plug is not correct.

 

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/soldering-station-with-adjustable-heat-range-eu-plug.html?wrh_pdp=3

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19 hours ago, Silverado said:

I have used this about 7 years. last year the handle ceramic bit broke. So ordered a new station again.

Love it. get thicker tips for it thought if you buy one.  -I like to use the small included bit for plastic welding and cutting.

Different outlet styles available, if eu plug is not correct.

 

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/soldering-station-with-adjustable-heat-range-eu-plug.html?wrh_pdp=3

thank you for the reply, i found the US/CAD plug version. $26 is a good price for that.

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1 hour ago, nel33 said:

thank you for the reply, i found the US/CAD plug version. $26 is a good price for that.

It´s a really good station for the price... 

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got this in today, gotta source some 12-14 wires locally if possible and wait for the connectors, battery, 1080 to arrive somewhere around the 19th. still havent gotten to the tub of the manta and have things to do to busy myself with the lunchie. might end up starting with the 1080 in the manta once the connectors are ready to charge it

 

EDIT: it looks like I won't need to purchase a soldering station after all. My father has an old Weller EC2001 soldering station that was given to him sometime in the past when his employer then was put basing newer soldering station. The station hit 255f pretty fast but we didn't do a proper test with it. He didn't even remember having it until today much like how you forget a few under used tools kept as spares. I'm going g to try my pen soldering iron and test it out to practice on 12 gauge wire I bought today.

IMG_4607.JPG

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HOW INFURITAING!!!

i managed to muster up some patience to solder 12 AWG wire the proper way. it took a bit of time for the pen soldering iron to do the trick but 350F did the trick. i soldered up the wire ends and they are nice but they are a very tight fit of the actual places the wires are supposed to solder/clamp into. didnt have wire cutter handy at all! which made things rather annoying to say the least. i also found some older but good slimmer wire, think it 14AWG. got those tips soldered but trying to older it to the tamiya connectors is difficult.  i got some helping hands but the added thickness with the solder win going to take up all the width to fit on the tamiya connector. i crimped one onto the 12guage wire but cant separate it from the pack of 20 as i dont have wire cutters handy, only needle nose/side cutters... got to raid my tool box for cutters and crimpers.

how can i solder the wire to the tamiya connectors? adding some flux before crimping the wire makes it too hard to fit. i can only see fluxing the connector surfaces and holding it in the helping hands and heating up the bottom of the tamiya connector then letting the solder melt into the side walls. holding the wire and connector on a flat surface doesnt work to keep the wire there.

i havent even tried/tested the XT60 sides yet.

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Soldering is an art that takes time, patience, and lots of practice.  Find some old wire and plugs and butcher them. Once you get good, do your real connectors.

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I think I’d do what was suggested in the other thread. Crimp and then add solder if you wanted it. However I bet as the solder makes the wire solid that it would make weak point?

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7 hours ago, Cynan said:

I think I’d do what was suggested in the other thread. Crimp and then add solder if you wanted it. However I bet as the solder makes the wire solid that it would make weak point?

Yeah solder for xt60 and cold crimp for tamiya side, got to buy proper crimping tool now.

10 hours ago, Frog Jumper said:

Soldering is an art that takes time, patience, and lots of practice.  Find some old wire and plugs and butcher them. Once you get good, do your real connectors.

What is patience??? I don't think I have that much. I did figure out how to solder 12 AWG to xt60 connectors but waiting for the iron to heat up isnt my forte... I ended up making a connector that can be used without butchering it much. Waiting for the wire and can to heat and suck in the solder was a learning session in patience.

In the past I didn't wait for the wire to suck in the solder and the result was less than ideal and not very secure. Knowing I'm plugging this into a battery or charger is why I took the time for it to be done properly.

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So when you wick the wire end, the solder should run like water, ie super hot. You only need a touch of solder and you should still be able to see the individual wire threads.  Basically, you are filling in the gaps between the threads making the end “solid”.

Place a bead of solder on you iron tip and drop in the plug cup, ie scrape it off into the cup.  This is your glue.

Place the iron on the back of the cup and hold wire on the bead. Bead will melt and wire will sink. Push into position and remove iron.  Foo-foo to cool.

Prep takes the longest. Let the iron get very hot. Patience Padawan, patience…

My biggest problem when I solder is getting the connections backwards. Cut and solder one at a time (if you can) to avoid this problem…

Also, if you plug your connection into its opposite which has been soldered to a length of wire, that connection will conduct heat away from your solder point. It will take longer to melt your solder but it will help prevent the plastic from melting…

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So “patience” is learning to distract yourself for an appropriate time. I usually plug in my iron then go have a smoke. By the time I get back everything is good to go. If you don’t smoke, maybe you can go harass your Wife/GF for a quickie???

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Yeah I waited until the wire got hot enough to melt and suck in the solder. Used solder on the tip to help heat the can up better. Getting perfect solder on wire before putting it in the can is iffy as I don't have much extra clearance. Flux served well enough to transfer heat to wire then gobbled on enough solder once it sucked it in to fill all the gaps. I do need to plan better on which wire and connector needs which wire.

Probably will listen to a heavy metal song to let the iron get hot.

EDIT: IT AINT PRETTY, but i got 2 sets of connectors done they look good to decent but im not happy with =how i got there. it doesnt help that i continued on when my concentrations wasnt all there... the first one i did today before work started was good. these last 7 were so annoying. i didnt have the temp control good and the plug itself got all loose in the female connectors and when i realized it, the pins were crocked grrrr. i cut my loss there and tried again and again but the socket got overheated. 5 female connectors left in stock and it crocked again. try again! crocked but i just with great frustration heated the socket to adjust it after 2 attempts as the stuff i needed to correct the angle were there within those few seconds you need to adjust. 3rd attempt to correct it was good though the pins are slightly uneven depth but they work to connect to the battery. im done for the morning ie 3am. lost 2.5hrs on this headache. 4 female connectors are cut/junk.

i just need to get a mollem/molex crimp tool to complete the thing. not cleaning the tip of burnt solder likely didnt help at all... no useful cleaning item to remove that stuff.

if only i went with 14AWG... next time i know better. 

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