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alvinlwh

Mudmad

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Another build diary of a less popular model in the forum, a Mudmad. Everyone seem to be building the Lunchbox for the SW-01 instead of this. I, however, do not usually buy my models based on looks but cost so when I came across this set on FOG going for £56.24 delivered, lowest priced SW-01 I had seen anywhere so I just grabbed it. It will tie in nicely with the other Star Unit vehicle, the SU-01 chassis Aero Avante I am currently building.

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/99207-114-aero-avante/

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Contents (full unboxing to come later, still "working" from home at the moment)

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Hop up parts

Tamiya 54898 SW-01 (Mini Lunch Box etc) Upper Arm Connectors for 4WS

Tamiya 54920 Sw-01 A Parts Chassis Light Grey

Tamiya 54930 Sw-01 G Parts (Gears) Yellow

Tamiya 54928 Sw-01 Metal Cross Joiner X 4

Etronix ET2045 Analogue Standard Servo 4.0KG for Steering

Tamiya 54899 (OP1899) SW-01 Spring Set (Soft / Hard)

Tamiya 54980 (OP1980) Ball Caster for SW-01 Wheelie Bar

Either a 370 ST or TT with 18T pinion gear

Either a Mtroniks Viper Autosport20 or some cheap £10 ESC

Will have to get some Carson C608199 for this and the SU-01. The AA battery holder costs over £20.

Edit: full ball bearings as well of course 

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Forgot to add, I am unable to start on this one yet, as for some reason, TTM did not send me Tamiya 54920 (needed for step 1) with the rest of my order (the top 5 items on the list) and Neil is not replying to my emails. I had just ordered another one from ebay instead. If anyone knows or has direct contact with Neil, can you help me give him a shout please as I intend to order the batteries from TTM but need some questions answered.

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I’m following with interest, loved the Lunchbox Mini & got given a MudMad by the kids. Looking forward to seeing the deviations from standard.

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IMG_20210813_113524.thumb.jpg.aaac4127d885fd018e225744f6b6a73c.jpg

The required A parts had arrived! Now I (think I) can start on this build! :)

 

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So Part A bag can go straight into the spares bin.

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So can Part G.

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I also have the reinforced Part B on order and in fact, looking at the parts list, it is possible to build this thing completely from parts without needing to buy the kit at all as Part C is also available as a hop up part. Part D is not included anyway and will cost another £20+.

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Anyhow, I thought I am ready to start building this, well, I am WRONG again as my ball bearings are not home yet! :( 

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Little monsters gone to bed and time to get cracking.

Step 1 - Attaching gears

Another bag to go into the spares, G Parts. Even for the hop ups, only half will be used since I will be using ball bearings.

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Those 630s are tiny!

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Both gears in.

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Step 1 complete.

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Step 2 - Gearbox

This lot is going into that hole and if that bearing falls off, it could be badword to get out. A tip is to put a drop of grease on the metal shaft before trying.

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Both gears in.

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Cover on, step 2 complete.

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Step 3 - Attaching motor

I am using the kit silver can and motor mount for testing. Will be using the clear parts when I get the TT motor and 18t pinion gear. Push on pinion gears, reminds me of my Mini4WD days! :)

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Motor mounted.

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Test run with 4 x AAs.

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And 7.2v.

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So...some bits had arrived, and TBH, I am getting quite bored since the completion of the SU-01.

Now that I got the motor screws, I can install the ST motor into the clear holder with a metal 18T pinion gear as recommended.

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Metal pinion just visible through the clear cover.

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Nice to be able to see the motor through the clear casing.

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Decided to improve on the casing a little bit, not sure how long this paint will last.

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Step 26 - Top deck

Jumping way ahead, wanting to reduce the number of parts on the parts tree and to make the box a little tidier, I built the top deck.

Nothing exciting here except for the clear parts and the black part was supposed to be reinforced.

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Step 39 - Trimming body

Cut out the body shell.

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The factory paint is quite tough, it took quite an effort to scrap through the paint.

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Done. Stickering next.

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Step 16 - Wheelie bar

Technically this should be step 16 but I am using 54980 Ball Caster for SW-01 Wheelie Bar set instead, so I am building that. This makes me realise that when it comes to build my "spares special" Lunchbox Mini, I will have 2 sets of wheelie bars, the original OOB one and the reinforced plastic one.

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Steps 39 & 40 Markings

Hands washed and ready for stickering. Annoyingly, the stickers are not precut.

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Stupid stupid mistake, forgot to remove the film before stickering. Luckily spotted my mistake after only one sticker.

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All stickers done.

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And number plates on.

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Nothing exciting today, the HW1625 arrived. Small ESC for a small motor.

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Swapping the mini Tamiya (who uses that?) for Deans.

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Ok, reinforced C parts had arrived at last and time to go on with the build. This also means that I got all the required parts to build a second chassis which I will do so in a separate thread.

Step 4 - Universal shafts.

This will be built out of the Reinforced C Parts and Metal Cross Joints hop-up parts. Interestingly, OP-1951 does include its own set of metal dog bones and grab screws.

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Reading many stories of the metal dog bones falling out, I used CA glue from the start. Problem is I did not read the instructions properly and thought that the grab screws grab on the flat of the dog bones, which is not the case. I failed to notice the diagram in the top left under a completed set. So I had to rip 3 already done set apart and try to shove the dog bones back into the CA filled holes.

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Complete set, may not be noticeable here, but 2 are of the correct length, 2 are too long (too much of a fight with the harden CA glue). Hopefully they will still be OK as they are at most, 2mm longer than they should be. Either way, the correct ones will go into the front, the longer ones into the rear. If there are serious negative effects, I will look into removing and cleaning off the CA properly. Fingers crossed that I do not need to do that.

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Step 5 - Front uprights

Nothing exciting here, just replaced the plastic bearings with ball bearings.

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Step 6 - Front upper arm

Again, nothing exciting here, just screw the bits together.

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Step 7 - Attaching front uprights

Soft springs from the 54899 set is used here, with the aim to make the car dive under braking, helping with forward roll.

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Step 8 - Differential gear 1 (front)

The diff are the same as the T3-01 and SU-01 ones, therefore the T3-01 reinforced differential joint and pinion set will work. However, they are fairly expensive and two sets are required. So I am going with stock on this. Afterall, I already got the yellow gear set which looks good under the clear case.

The insides will be packed with ceramic grease to slow down the action somewhat.

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Done up with ball bearings instead of plastic bearings.

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Step 9 - Attaching front upper arm

The diff and front steering attachment is installed onto the chassis here. Tip is not to worry about the dog bones and just get the pivot pin in. The dog bones can hang free and will be inserted and secured later, not now.

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Front clear cover on.

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Pressing on to get this sucker alive before the end of the day.

Step 22 to 24 involve the AA batteries holder, which I did not get and cost around £20. Better off with a lipo.

Step 25 - Setting up servo, etc.

There is a clear servo arm with the clear A parts set which I used to look cool. 

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Step 10 - Rear upper arm

As I am using the 4WS connectors on this build, there are some changes to the instructions to take note of. As BA4 screws are there to keep the rear from moving in a FWS situation, I decided to leave them out completely as I do not think they serve any purpose in a 4WS build.

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The completed arm.

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Step 11 - Rear uprights

Go together exactly the same as the front ones.

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Step 12 - Attaching rear uprights

I got the hard springs from the hop up set for the rears.

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