Mudmad

[alvinlwh 5895]

On 9/16/2021 at 6:02 AM, Drifft Do^Urban said:

Ahh.. thanks for the callout on wheel screws stripping. That's definitely a concern with the hop up motors. The silver can works fine but would stall out whenever in wheelie.

I just swapped out the ST for a TT and it is far more manageable now. With the ST, it does flippie instead of wheelie. I think TT is the max this chassis can take, unless you restriction the speed with finger control or DR, which makes it pointless then, IMHO. 

[Drifft Do^Urban 10]

Finally finished my hopped up SW-01 Lunch Box. If you're going clear chassis with yellow body/gears/wheels, then I'd recommend picking up the yellow 5mm Adjusters (Part# 9803262 & 9803263) from the MudMad. You just need one of each of those part numbers, since there are 8 pieces per bag.

For the stock kit, I would've preferred to pay extra for it to include the better quality reinforced parts. Everything still feels wobbly, but steering is fine when going. Would have greatly preferred normal wheel attachment instead of screws. Also, since wheelies are it's selling point, the upper arm connectors really should have been included. I need to re-find the post or video that explained how to properly set the tie-rods for steered wheelies, as 2.2mm gap for the back and 4mm front per the hop-up manual do not seem correct regardless of surface.

The MudMad's rally tires drive and grip better on all surfaces. Possibly less weight, too? Bearing kit is a must and worth the extra cost (for every kit). I'll put the reinforced leftovers for joints and wheelie roller on then call it good.

Overall, incredibly happy with the SW-01! Perfect speed for an enclosed space and a tumble of fun.

[alvinlwh 5895]

10 hours ago, Drifft Do^Urban said:

Finally finished my hopped up SW-01 Lunch Box. If you're going clear chassis with yellow body/gears/wheels, then I'd recommend picking up the yellow 5mm Adjusters (Part# 9803262 & 9803263) from the MudMad. You just need one of each of those part numbers, since there are 8 pieces per bag.

The LB is a "spares special" which will not be getting any hop ups except bearings as the MM is already the "hopped up special" that got every possible hop up parts except the reinforced diff. Even the wheels came from a TT-01 kit from 12 years ago. The goal with the LB build is to spend as little as possible on it as I had already spent as much as possible on the MM. The motto for building the LB is "Not a penny more on things is already here!".

TBH, I am somewhat disappointed with the clear chassis as it is less clear than I like. Either way, the LB is getting the standard black chassis and gold wheels, all spare I got around. I got the clear body to be painted in the color of my choice, so color coordination is not an issue here so no need to go yellow on the adjusters.

Not sure where you are based, but Yeah Racing makes a lot of metal parts for the SW-01, which may fix the wobble problem. They are pretty much impossible to get in the UK without paying big postage cost though, so I can only live with the plastic parts.

One thing though, did you notice that all the screws seems loose in this kit, be it stock or aftermarket parts? They seem to not even hold on properly virgin plastic, I am not sure if the screws called for are too small and/or short or the holes are too big. I can clearly see from the clear parts they are not holding properly. In due course, I may strip the whole thing and super glue the holes but I had been thinking if poor screws and holes mating is the reason for it feeling loose.

[Drifft Do^Urban 10]

RCMart will ship YR to US (here) but isn't cheap from HK. I'm fine with Tamiya parts for now till they break. For the screws, I used a ratcheting screwdriver to only get them finger tight. Most seem to hold properly on the reinforced parts, but there are a few that spin freely regardless. More are "loose" on the standard kit.

[alvinlwh 5895]

2 hours ago, Drifft Do^Urban said:

RCMart will ship YR to US (here) but isn't cheap from HK. I'm fine with Tamiya parts for now till they break. For the screws, I used a ratcheting screwdriver to only get them finger tight. Most seem to hold properly on the reinforced parts, but there are a few that spin freely regardless. More are "loose" on the standard kit.

Yes, I know they do, but the shipping cost... Just makes it hard to swallow. 

I too use a ratcheting screwdriver. Glad that you are finding the same, means I am not screwing them wrong. I just superglued the 4 main chassis screw holes today and they feel so much better.