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alvinlwh

SW-01 questions

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Some questions about the SW-01 Madmud I am building now. 

Reinforced C parts - is it 2 sets required for this? Pictures seem to show only 1 tree. 

Yeah Racing hop ups - is there any UK stockist of these? Not buying from ebay US and paying massive shipping + import tax. 

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3 hours ago, BuggyGuy said:

These guys used to have a good selection of Yeah Racing bits: https://speedrc.co.uk/

Not sure they newer bits though

Thanks, will take a better look tomorrow when I am on the laptop but a quick look on the phone did not turn up anything for the SW-01. 

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Yes you need two of the C parts. They are worth it. Much more rigid compared to the stock soft plastic parts. Also would recommend the reinforced spring set and the metal ball joints. SW01 is my favorite car in pair with the Clod Buster. 

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2 hours ago, TDanny said:

Yes you need two of the C parts. They are worth it. Much more rigid compared to the stock soft plastic parts. Also would recommend the reinforced spring set and the metal ball joints. SW01 is my favorite car in pair with the Clod Buster. 

Gosh, that is going to cost quite a bit. I already got the replacement A, B and G parts, the springs set and metal joint parts and a TT motor. So effectively, this car can be built entirely out of hop up parts with nothing original! 

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10 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

Gosh, that is going to cost quite a bit. I already got the replacement A, B and G parts, the springs set and metal joint parts and a TT motor. So effectively, this car can be built entirely out of hop up parts with nothing original! 

Yes, you can even build the whole car from aftermarket metal parts. That would cost a fortune. :D

And you can add some nice Gear Head metal 1.55 rims for another 80 bucks.

I was planing on building two SW01 together and make a 8x8 army truck... maybe one day. ;) 

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2 hours ago, TDanny said:

Yes, you can even build the whole car from aftermarket metal parts. That would cost a fortune. :D

And you can add some nice Gear Head metal 1.55 rims for another 80 bucks.

I was planing on building two SW01 together and make a 8x8 army truck... maybe one day. ;) 

I actually just put together a spreadsheet to see how much I had spent in this and it is 4 times its original cost! Spent £56.24 on the kit which was a bargain, and now the total is £245.13! Thankfully, I cannot get Yeah Racing parts here, if not... 

Now I got all the spare A, B, C, G and P parts, I am going to use them to build a stock Lunchbox if I can get hold of all the screw bags. 

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Further questions:

Since I am building the Mudmad's chassis out of hop up parts except the screws and body, I am left with an entire set of SW-01 chassis parts. I just need another set of screws and a body (LB this time) and I will get a "spares special".

Now, this second SW-01 will be built with cost as the main concern, and the aim is to build a second SW-01 for as low a price as possible. The only hop up part I intend to get for it is a set of ball bearings. (plus servo, Rx and ESC of course!) It will also get some of the hop ups spares left over from the current build.

So, my questions are:

1. I have half a set of metal cross joint (1 pair) left over from building my SU-01 (RWD), will they be better to go into the rear or front of this "spare special"? As I will already have a set of these joints for my current build, I will also have spare reinforced C8 and that can go into the other axel. I am thinking rear, will that be correct?

2. I have the soft and hard spring set and had used a pair in the SU-01. So what will best suit both the current (hopped up) and planned (spares) build? I read somewhere that the OOB rear springs are rather soft so I assume at least a hard  for the rear on the current build? How about the front? Soft? OOB? I am thinking:

Hopped up build - Hard Rear, Soft Front (to help with front roll)

Spares special - OOB Rear, Soft Front (No more hard left, OOB is medium I believe?)

Is that logical/correct?

Wheelie bar for the planned build will be from the reinforced B parts as I already have the ball roller for the current build, not that it will matter much anyway I think. Any reinforced parts not used will also go into the planned build (not that much I think)

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On 8/18/2021 at 4:20 PM, TDanny said:

Yes you need two of the C parts. They are worth it. Much more rigid compared to the stock soft plastic parts. Also would recommend the reinforced spring set and the metal ball joints. SW01 is my favorite car in pair with the Clod Buster. 

Mine arrived yesterday. Since I calibrated the esc and fixed the out of whack steering it’s now a brilliant little machine. 
mine has the optional rear steer links installed but it doesn’t seem to turn in a wheelie. Is there some set up trick to make the rear steer more pronounced? 

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6 hours ago, Dakratfink said:

Mine arrived yesterday. Since I calibrated the esc and fixed the out of whack steering it’s now a brilliant little machine. 
mine has the optional rear steer links installed but it doesn’t seem to turn in a wheelie. Is there some set up trick to make the rear steer more pronounced? 

Look around on the forum, there is a thread on the SW-01 that runs into many pages, in that thread, there are some talk about different toe angles required for use with the RWS system. 

Yours is a second hand purchase? If you have, or can get hold of, the instructions for the steering arms, try checking/restoring it back to stock and work from there.

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Yeah, I got it second hand. In fact, on my first run there was a lot of rear toe-in and it wasn’t symmetrical. It was very unstable. I adjusted both to neutral toe . I also had t adjust the front steering rods to take a little left pull out. It is stable now but doesn’t wheelie steer. I think I have to further adjust the rear toe. 

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45 minutes ago, Dakratfink said:

Yeah, I got it second hand. In fact, on my first run there was a lot of rear toe-in and it wasn’t symmetrical. It was very unstable. I adjusted both to neutral toe . I also had t adjust the front steering rods to take a little left pull out. It is stable now but doesn’t wheelie steer. I think I have to further adjust the rear toe. 

Hopefully some experienced SW-01 owner will step in to help out with you. The info in that thread is a little hard to find. 

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18 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

Hopefully some experienced SW-01 owner will step in to help out with you. The info in that thread is a little hard to find. 

Yes. I have found that thread but I hope so too . Otherwise I’ll just have to adjust by trial and error I guess 

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6 minutes ago, Dakratfink said:

Yes. I have found that thread but I hope so too . Otherwise I’ll just have to adjust by trial and error I guess 

Wouldn't mind if you will share your experience. 👍

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4 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

Wouldn't mind if you will share your experience. 👍

Likewise. Once you install your roller caster wheelie bar let us know if you can do those sweet round and round wheelies 

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Just a bump as I have not received any answers. Hopefully someone can help? 

So, my questions are:

1. I have half a set of metal cross joint (1 pair) left over from building my SU-01 (RWD), will they be better to go into the rear or front of this "spare special"? As I will already have a set of these joints for my current build, I will also have spare reinforced C8 and that can go into the other axel. I am thinking rear, will that be correct?

2. I have the soft and hard spring set and had used a pair in the SU-01. So what will best suit both the current (hopped up) and planned (spares) build? I read somewhere that the OOB rear springs are rather soft so I assume at least a hard  for the rear on the current build? How about the front? Soft? OOB? I am thinking:

Hopped up build - Hard Rear, Soft Front (to help with front roll)

Spares special - OOB Rear, Soft Front (No more hard left, OOB is medium I believe?)

Is that logical/correct?

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12 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

Just a bump as I have not received any answers. Hopefully someone can help? 

So, my questions are:

1. I have half a set of metal cross joint (1 pair) left over from building my SU-01 (RWD), will they be better to go into the rear or front of this "spare special"? As I will already have a set of these joints for my current build, I will also have spare reinforced C8 and that can go into the other axel. I am thinking rear, will that be correct?

2. I have the soft and hard spring set and had used a pair in the SU-01. So what will best suit both the current (hopped up) and planned (spares) build? I read somewhere that the OOB rear springs are rather soft so I assume at least a hard  for the rear on the current build? How about the front? Soft? OOB? I am thinking:

Hopped up build - Hard Rear, Soft Front (to help with front roll)

Spares special - OOB Rear, Soft Front (No more hard left, OOB is medium I believe?)

Is that logical/correct?

Re: the metal cross joints . I would probably put them in the rear it it were my build . I’d probably use the harder springs in the rear too, but I guess that would require more experimentation

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On 8/19/2021 at 11:22 AM, TDanny said:

Yes, you can even build the whole car from aftermarket metal parts. That would cost a fortune. :D

I worked out that if I had planned this out at the start, it will cost around £115 building it out of purely hopup Tamiya parts (not metal though), excluding ESC and RX. 

A, B, 2 x C, G, bearings, ball caster, metal cross joint, springs from PJ - £72.43 Inc postage (no steering arms as they are out of stock) 

Screw bags - £16.49

Body - £15.44

Tyres - £10

Throw in ESC + RX for appx £40, total just over £150. That's the average cost of my 2 SW-01s, however one of mine is hopups and the other is stock from spares from the first one. 

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On 9/2/2021 at 1:41 PM, Dakratfink said:

Likewise. Once you install your roller caster wheelie bar let us know if you can do those sweet round and round wheelies 

On first few tries, I had a ST in the hopped up one with the ball caster and it is undrivable. It does flippies instead of wheelies. After a few tries, I swap in a TT motor instead. It is more drivable but still does not do steerable wheelies. Need to revisit that thread but digging out info from a 10 page thread is not easy and currently, that car is in bits as I find the screws not bitting correctly and I stole the C16 part to replace a broken B16 part in a SU-01.

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11 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

On first few tries, I had a ST in the hopped up one with the ball caster and it is undrivable. It does flippies instead of wheelies.

I find with the brushless Quicrun in mine I have the best time driving it with my dual rate on the throttle turned down to 75%

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17 minutes ago, Dakratfink said:

I find with the brushless Quicrun in mine I have the best time driving it with my dual rate on the throttle turned down to 75%

While DRing it down is possible, I just do not want to waste the St's power, which is why I swap in a TT instead. At least I can use its power to its fullest. 

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2 hours ago, Dakratfink said:

I have a TrAxxas 7575x 370 in my T3-01 trike . Plenty of power and easy to control.

That's where I will stick my ST in when and if I get a T3-01.

This time, I may just build it out of hop ups, spares and AM parts, may work out cheaper. 😁

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