Egress incoming! Help with motor, etc please!

[GeeWings]

So, I'm very excited (possibly too excited for a 40 something year old) as I've purchased a 2013 re re Egress which is currently making it's way to me. I've looked around previous posts here and other websites and would love views on the set-up I have put together. I'm absolutely OK with spending more if there are better options but would really like kit I can readily get hold of.

 

I want it to have some zip but don't need silly speed so LiPos etc are out (for now). I will be using it on gravel, dirt and beach (if I'm brave).

I'm a bit lost on Servos (can't remember how to work out what's needed) and the seller mentioned to me that I should get a program card but no idea if I really need one or what to get (don't think they were a thing in the 80's). But I assume it might be helpful to get one so I can dial down power a bit etc especially as I will probably be trigger happy and my son even more so!

Any advice greatly appreciated...

 

 

 

 

[nel33]

Interesting, would that program card work on the 1060? I got a 1080 for a Manta rather than a 1060 for the extra control.

[GeeWings]

9 minutes ago, nel33 said:

Interesting, would that program card work on the 1060? I got a 1080 for a Manta rather than a 1060 for the extra control.

No idea! So much of this knowledge is new to me or stored in too deep a corner of my brain! I've compiled this list from bits of info I have found around the place!

I thought the 1080 was for crawlers?

[Dakratfink]

7 minutes ago, GeeWings said:

No idea! So much of this knowledge is new to me or stored in too deep a corner of my brain! I've compiled this list from bits of info I have found around the place!

I thought the 1080 was for crawlers?

The 1080 is for crawlers and does use a program card. 
the 1060 does not use any program cards. The only “settings “ on the 1060 are little jumper plugs to select lipo or Nihm battery and forward/ reverse/ brake modes. 
for your purposes I thing the the 1060 would suit you better. IMHO

[Killajb]

Have quite a few Hobbywing 1060's and 1080's.  The 1080 esc I purchased came with it's own program card.  I don't use in a crawler and disabled the drag brake feature. The biggest difference I can note is the brakes.  The 1080 allows more aggressive braking, which for my purpose (TT-01 on-road) is a delight.  

 

For an Egress however, I presume if you're going to enjoy off-road fun then the 1060 is more than good enough.  Plus, it's a bit smaller so you'll have less hassle to mount and tuck wires away neatly.  I'd swap out the bronze bushings for some motor bearings to that Super Stock BZ with the coin you save from not purchasing a program card.

[GeeWings]

@Dakratfink @Killajb @nel33 thanks for the tips so far. What about the servo? I don't remember having so many options way back when and am lost on the endless variables!

[Jonathon Gillham]

Careful with program cards because they are manufacturer specific, and even model specific from the same manufacturer. They are important for racing but otherwise not that important other than if you get a sensored brushless motor they can make it either mild or crazy fast. 

Where are you buying from? I assume thats a shopping cart from a particular shop so it would be useful to know to recommend products from the same place.

Servo - for my non racers that are decent I aim for around .10 - .12 sec speed. For the Egress I would look for this sort of speed as it should be a decent performer.  8kg or more should be plenty. My goto for my offroad racers is the Savox 1258TG and while its expensive for a non racer they aren't crazy expensive for what they are. Probably overkill though. The Trackstar D99X is a decent bang for buck servo too and they seem to last well.

I have some Flysky radios and they all work as advertised and are good value. I also have a Sanwa MT4S and Futaba 3PV and they are so much nicer, but in a subjective kind of way. If you are sticking around in the hobby consider the Sanwa MTS or MT44 (or a seconhand MT4S) or the Futaba 4PV or 4PM. They are expensive compared to the Fkysky but you'll have it for years so its not a long spread over the time you have it. You can also get generic receivers for them now too which are a lot cheaper. In saying that, if you have kids (and neighbours, friends etc) then you'll end up with more than 1 set so get yourself a nicer one later. I have 7 sets I think.

Have you considered brushless? The Super Stock motors are great performers but they need maintenace like cutting comms and new brushes. A cheap brushless system doesn't require any maintenance. The Trackstar 80a Turbo ESC and 13.5T combo from Hobbyking is a great bang for buck setup. Get the program card to add in some additional timing and it becomes a rocket.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/trackstar-roar-approved-1-10th-stock-class-brushless-esc-and-motor-combo-13-5t.html

[Sir Crashalot]

If you can get a servo, motor and ESC in the same colour it will look better on the chassis.

[GeeWings]

@Jonathon Gillham thanks, super helpful. 

My shopping cart was at RCMart but overnight they have sold out of super stock. I can still source one but will be very expensive. 
 

Like your recommendation so may well go for that. Thanks again!

[djmcnz]

Dynatech 01R!!

[Snappy1]

I would suggest a 10.5 sensored brushless, set and forget, effortless smooth power, dynatechs are awesome but very expensive to maintain, go lipo now.  Lol

 

[GeeWings]

17 minutes ago, Snappy1 said:

I would suggest a 10.5 sensored brushless, set and forget, effortless smooth power, dynatechs are awesome but very expensive to maintain, go lipo now.  Lol

 

If I were to go that route are there specific motor and ESC you would recommend? Anything else I need to buy if I go Lipo?

[Jonathon Gillham]

1 minute ago, GeeWings said:

If I were to go that route are there specific motor and ESC you would recommend? Anything else I need to buy if I go Lipo?

Lipo helps when you start playing with a programmable ESC, NiMH can't supply the power that the motor is wanting.

To change to lipo you just need one that fits the chassis, and make sure its hard case. No idea what fits the Egress chassis though.

That same Trackstar combo comes in 10.5T.

There are a lot of options depending on budget. That Trackstar combo is about the cheapest sensored combo. Hobbywing make good stuff and are many people's go to. I run SkyRC ESC and Surpass Rocket V4S or V5R motors in my racers.

For ESC either the TS120 or TS160, and get a program card

Muchmore, Orca, Orion, Tekin etc are all good and worth looking at if budget allows

[DeadMeat666]

Congratulations on your purchase! I have an Egress re-re in my build que and I understand your enthusiasm.

If you're looking for something compact and cost effective as far as power, I'd urge you to check out the SkyRC cheetah combo, specifically the 13.5T motor and esc. It comes with a program card in the box, and is more or less plug and play. I have nothing but good things to say about this set. The motor is relatively free of gaping holes, so it would work well in an off-road application. If you'd prefer your Egress to really fly, then select the 10.5T combo.

[GeeWings]

14 minutes ago, DeadMeat666 said:

Congratulations on your purchase! I have an Egress re-re in my build que and I understand your enthusiasm.

If you're looking for something compact and cost effective as far as power, I'd urge you to check out the SkyRC cheetah combo, specifically the 13.5T motor and esc. It comes with a program card in the box, and is more or less plug and play. I have nothing but good things to say about this set. The motor is relatively free of gaping holes, so it would work well in an off-road application. If you'd prefer your Egress to really fly, then select the 10.5T combo.

 

Thanks, another great recommendation. Would you run this Nimh or Lipo?

[DeadMeat666]

5 minutes ago, GeeWings said:

 

Thanks, another great recommendation. Would you run this Nimh or Lipo?

Lipo for sure. If you manage to find a Lipo with a dean's plug (a.k.a. T-plug), then you will have zero soldering to do; the esc comes with a dean's plug already attached.

[GeeWings]

21 minutes ago, DeadMeat666 said:

Lipo for sure. If you manage to find a Lipo with a dean's plug (a.k.a. T-plug), then you will have zero soldering to do; the esc comes with a dean's plug already attached.

Thanks. RCing was certainly simpler in the old days  Now checking out the minefield that is Lipo!

[djmcnz]

Look, just don't buy NiMH batteries these days, they silly old tech only relevant to those that already own a bunch.

Get a proper charger and don't look back, any 'noise' about LiPo/NiMH is just that, noise, ignore it. LiPo's are far superior in every single important metric. I've had LiPo packs at full discharge, and others at full charge, for years on my shelf and they still charge and discharge like new.

Brushed/brushless is more marginal (but still obvious IMHO).

 

[GeeWings]

@djmcnz I’m onboard! Despite being adamant at the start of the day I was going NiMH! 
 

Just now trying to find out what will and won’t fit. So many variables.

[El Gecko]

4 hours ago, GeeWings said:

Despite being adamant at the start of the day I was going NiMH!

As a counterpoint, I'd stick to your guns and keep it simple since you're just starting out again. A brushed motor and 1060 ESC will give you plenty of pep, and 5000mAh NiMH sticks are pretty cheap these days.

Lipo and brushless motors introduce another level of complexity (and cost), and are not as easy to repair--the motors in particular are headed straight to the landfill if they fail. Plus you have the extra danger of Lipo exploding while charging, while running, even while being stored away not being used.

Many of us are still having tons of fun with NiMH batteries and brushed motors. After all, that's what these cars were designed for. (technically NiCd but same form factor)

[Bwaaatch]

A note that you can dial down the power for kids using most modern transmitters, including a flysky gt3c. So no need for programme card for that. It’s an easy setting to switch on the fly. It’s called ‘end point adjustment’. Stick it down to 30% and your investment is pretty safe!

[DeadMeat666]

Just a side note: The servo you had selected is pretty decent, but I'd spring for the one that says "23" on the side. It's also made by PowerHD, and is also waterproof, but is a little quicker at 0.12s compared to this 20kg that is rated at 0.16s.

[topforcein]

as has been said go for a brushless set up you won't regret it  look at it this way the egress is a rc that is meant to go fast so why not start with something you will eventually end up at buy a motor/speed controller set like speed passion but don't go down the cheap o route with chinese combos

dont forget your charger also for the lipo

[BuggyGuy]

What's your budget?

You could get a Tamiya TBLE-04S ESC (part 45069) super cheap, you can use this with any battery type and brushed or brushless motors.

If you want a brushed Tamiya motor the Super Stock motors are great, or if brushless then a 21.5 TBLM maybe (54895)

Savox metal geared servos are good - I use the SC-1251MG in a couple of buggies and it been good for the price. CoreRC also have some well priced and tough servos (you can get them through the Schumacher website here: https://www.racing-cars.com/)

Battery wise, something like this and charger from the same brand might be a good fit: https://www.racing-cars.com/electrics/brand-brand=core-rc/core-rc-4000mahr-7-4v-30-60c-2s-lipo-cr293?returnurl=%2felectrics%2fbrand-brand%3dcore-rc%2f

I've got a Spektrum DX5C transmitter, but I've heard good things about this one: https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/328620/

If you do get a Spektrum system with the smart features you can get telemetry and battery voltage back to your transmitter if you use their LIPOs and other bits

[A-Baum]

3 hours ago, El Gecko said:

As a counterpoint, I'd stick to your guns and keep it simple since you're just starting out again. A brushed motor and 1060 ESC will give you plenty of pep, and 5000mAh NiMH sticks are pretty cheap these days.

Lipo and brushless motors introduce another level of complexity (and cost), and are not as easy to repair--the motors in particular are headed straight to the landfill if they fail. Plus you have the extra danger of Lipo exploding while charging, while running, even while being stored away not being used.

Many of us are still having tons of fun with NiMH batteries and brushed motors. After all, that's what these cars were designed for. (technically NiCd but same form factor)

I agree with this. Maybe it's because that's what I'm comfortable with but I get 45 minutes of runtime on my Blackfoot with a 3600mAh battery and silver can.  I get about 35-40 minutes on my Top Force with same battery and a 17t brushed motor.  But I'm not a speed freak, in fact excessive speed freaks me out because I have an aversion to breaking my kits.  I just bash on the road and into my front yard which is very low grass and some dirt spots.  But for me it's just fun to get out, if you have higher asperations then by all means get better stuff. 

That said, why are you getting a 6ch transmitter?  I would get a good 3ch with memory settings.  I now have 12 cars and regret not buying just one or two controllers I can use for all of them.  I will likely be doing that soon.