StanFam 3 Posted August 24, 2021 Is there any difference between these two transmitters? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B2SVQ3M/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=razorrc-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07B2SVQ3M&linkId=38acb03d92d469726b101ab73d7ff3a0 https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-gt5-6ch-2-4ghz-afhds-2a-surface-radio-w-gt5-receiver.html?queryID=76f717333f869c99899de1fb4a942e1a&objectID=78322&indexName=hbk_live_products_analytics Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StanFam 3 Posted August 24, 2021 Also, if anyone has any other suggestions for trans/receiver combos in this $60-$80 price range in the US, that would be great! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 3476 Posted August 24, 2021 Branding excepted, it is the same transmitter/receiver combo. And the Absima CR6P is also the same. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GooneyBird 938 Posted August 24, 2021 Welcome to the rabbit hole of the Chinese rebranding stuff. I'm actually convinced there's, like, maybe three factories actually producing stuff, and the rest just sticks labels on things and prints boxes. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mad Ax 9149 Posted August 24, 2021 Yep, should be the same under the skin. These are a pretty good transmitter for the money, you can also use the cheaper iA6 / iA6B receivers with them (although you lose the gyro functionality). The gyro is a neat addition although I had trouble with mine and switched to a conventional inline gyro for my drift car. I have had some problems with my GT5, and I know I'm not alone. Here are the problems so far: To begin with, the gyro would not calibrate properly and would often say "not available" when scrolling to the gyro option on the Tx. I usually had to switch the Rx off before I could change gyro settings on the Tx, which voids the point of having gyro controls on the Tx. I later noticed that every time I accelerated, the wheels would turn (as if the gyro was picking up vibrations or something), but applying a tiny bit of steering would cause the wheels to snap back to the centre again, destabilising the drift. In the end I discovered that pulling the throttle lever was squashing some cables inside the case and causing an unwanted steering input. A bit of re-routing fixed it. A couple of years later (actually earlier this year) I noticed the trim was way out on the throttle, and I could get the car to move by wiggling the throttle from side to side. The throttle pot must be under lateral load and therefore wears out fairly quickly. Mine certainly got a lot less use than my much older Spektrum DX3C in the same time, and that's never had a problem. To make matters worse, the actual pot is a very unusual part not commonly available (and naturally doesn't have a part number on it), although I have been told I can get them from banggood. Replacement should be a 20 minute job with a screwdriver and soldering iron, I just need to get on and order the parts from China and wait a fortnight for them to arrive. This does seem to be a common problem. If you can live with the potential for little issues like this and don't mind replacing components from time to time then it's a well-spec'd transmitter, but if you want trouble-free life you might want to increase the budget and look for Spektrum or Sanwa. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silvertriple 3476 Posted August 24, 2021 5 hours ago, Mad Ax said: To begin with, the gyro would not calibrate properly and would often say "not available" when scrolling to the gyro option on the Tx. I usually had to switch the Rx off before I could change gyro settings on the Tx, which voids the point of having gyro controls on the Tx. I later noticed that every time I accelerated, the wheels would turn (as if the gyro was picking up vibrations or something), but applying a tiny bit of steering would cause the wheels to snap back to the centre again, destabilising the drift. In the end I discovered that pulling the throttle lever was squashing some cables inside the case and causing an unwanted steering input. A bit of re-routing fixed it. You actually need to start the car flat, and the car should not move for 2 seconds for the Gyro to calibrate, otherwise it will report the function as not available. Once you get this, it calibrate without issue. Further, you can set the gyro action precisely with gain on both direction and gaz. I only have the Turbo Scorpion and a Slash running with the Gyro, and it looks quite better from the later one compared to Traxxas TSM as you can manage it much more precisely. Issue wise, I had one FS-BS6 RX died prematurely (5 mins of use). I did not have any other issue after that (it got replaced, and I do not necessarily use the FS-BS6 RX on all the cars. Most got a simple FS-A3 RX which is cheaper). 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mad Ax 9149 Posted August 24, 2021 Thanks for clarifying @silvertriple the problem I had with mine was that the steering trim was being pushed out due to the trapped cables, so the gyro was never calibrating properly. When the gyro system works properly it's very good - being able to adjust the gain and the override from the steering input is a really neat feature. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites