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Posted

This is my first thread, so a short summery about my RC history.

When I come back to the RC hobby after over 20 year in 2020, there was only a Grasshopper II from 1995 and a Manta Ray from 1998.

Beginning from April 2020, more and more RC cars found their way into my collection. Most/all of them are from the late 80s, respectively the 90s. There are a Porsche Turbo RSR 934 Black Edition (TA02SW), a Dyna Storm, a Avante 2011 and an Egress 2013. I'm a fan of the RC cars/chassis from the 90s like the Top Force, Dyna Storm, TA01, TA02, FF01 or TA03 since I was reading (or more soaking up) the Tamiya guide books when I was a teenager.

This summer it turned out, that @wtcc5 and @Quincy live near to my home town. After a nice on-road race day, they convinced me to add a FF01-chassis to my collection.

After buying, restoring and full upgrading a FF01 (PIAA Honda Accord), the next project should be starting...a TA03F.
Especially the hop-uped TA-03F PRO "David Jun" edition impressed me even as a teenager (guide book from 1998, page 39).

But to find a DJ edition is hard and expensive, so I want to convert a standard TA03F PRO into a "David Jun" edition.

 

Starting point:

dy3ff73i.jpg

r2vkcoss.jpg

 

Hopefully the final status in the future:

flb6sv5a.jpg

 


The standard TA03F PRO version used grey plastic parts, so the challenge will be to find the black ones.
Fortunatelly there is the re-re of the Porsche 911 GT1 Street (TA03R-S), so a lot of parts in black are already available.
Also the aluminum parts (rear hubs, pulleys, motor heat sink,...) will be hard to find, because no longer produced by Tamiya.

So the first step was to disassemble the complete chassis, cleaning all parts and have a look, if any parts can be reused or are broken and have to be replaced.

hgucvd3b.jpg

35i6cypg.jpg

 

After the inspection of the parts, the front and the rear gearboxes have cracks and have definitely being replaced. The front gearbox will be no issue, because it is the same part as the rear gearbox of the TA03R.

More critial is the damaged rear gearbox part. Fortunatelly, the seller of the chassis sent me an additional rear gearbox as a spare part. I will use this one until I find a black one.

 

The gear wheels itself comes in almost new condition and also the ball diffs looks good.

6xs38gq6.jpg

 

The installed low friction dampers are looking good as well, so I will renew only the seals/o-rings.

Now it's time to make the list with additional parts for the David Jun edition:

  • A-Parts (front gearbox/suspension mount - black) (10005657)
  • B-Parts (rear gearbox/suspension mount - black) (50699)
  • C-Parts (steering parts - black) (50700)
  • D-Parts (suspension arms - black) (50701/10005660)
  • E-Parts (front bumper - black) (19006835)
  • J-Parts (battery holder - black) (50703)
  • 53157 - Aluminum King Pins
  • 53172 - 4WD TA02 & FWD TA02 Universal Shaft Set
  • 53226 - 1/10 Touring Car Aluminum Front Hub Carrier
  • 53275 - TA03 Aluminum Motor Heat Sink
  • 53276 - TA03 Fluoriscent Color Stabilizer Set
  • 53278 - TA03 Aramid Fiber Reinforced Drive Belt
  • 53286 - TA03 Aluminum pulley (16T)
  • 53288 - TA03 Aluminum Rear Upright
  • 53302 - TA03F PRO Carbon Chassis Plates
  • 53325 - TA03 Aluminum Knuckle Arm
  • 53157 - Aluminum King Pins
  • ...

(If parts are missing, I will update the list)

 

Once again, I was lucky, because @Quincy  also work/worked on the same chassis and have some parts for me:

2t9iyc3p.jpg

Important parts and also hard to find. Thanks a lot for providing me these parts :)

As I mentioned, most of the black parts are shared with the Porsche 911 GT1 (TA03R-S). I'm currently not sure to buy these parts as spare parts or the complete kit (depending on the price difference)...

 

Now the list of missing parts got a little bit shorter:

  • B-Parts (rear gearbox/suspension mount - black) (50699) - on the way
  • 53274 - TA03 Aluminum Counter Shaft
  • 53275 - TA03 Aluminum Motor Heat Sink
  • 53276 - TA03 Fluoriscent Color Stabilizer Set
  • 53278 - TA03 Aramid Fiber Reinforced Drive Belt
  • 53286 - TA03 Aluminum pulley (16T)
  • 53288 - TA03 Aluminum Rear Upright
  • ...

 

  • Like 8
Posted
On 8/26/2021 at 4:26 PM, Tizer said:

Cool! Looks like @Quincy has a goldmine of NOS parts stashed somewhere :D 

Better have parts in stock you don't need, than the other way. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 8/28/2021 at 4:06 PM, Quincy said:

Better have parts in stock you don't need, than the other way. 

Absolutely!

Posted

An old coworkwr told me:" Always take it when it's available, not when you need it"

Really nice project. Always hat a soft spot for the TA03. In my parking lot racing days ,all others run TA03.

Posted

Yesterday the postman brought me a lot of missing parts, so the assembly can start in the next days...

The thing with the most needed spare parts for the TA03F...the dispender for the black chassis parts:

ts9bsxw5.jpg

 

And then a lot of small parts...all from major and minor hobby shops, nothing from online auctions portals.

qy2lacn7.jpg

 

Regarding the "torque control unit" I know that this is not for use in the TA03F due to the 14T pulley. I will use in the first step only the 16T aluminum pulley. These are hard to find (and expensive), so for me is is cheaper to buy two of these "torque control units" only for the pulleys :rolleyes:

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hey what really works well is spraying the gray parts black with Tamiya ps5 body paint. Looks exactly the same as the original black parts, and doesn't flake off. Just be sure to wash, degrease and sand (grit 800 e. G.) the parts before painting. Works a treat and looks way better. Cheers

Posted

The last weeks were very busy at work, so the project progress is not so far how I was expected. But good things must have time :)

In this build I don't want to use the Tamiya self-tapping screws, so I ordered various M3 stainless steel screws in different length and head types:

oiueodh3.jpg
 

Armed with thread cutter and screw driver, I started with the front gearbox. I also install the "torque control unit". I haven't run an stock TA03F-chassis until now to have a comparision, but we'll see if my driving style can handle it...

r9c36ls9.jpg

Next step was the build of the dampers:

nityin29.jpg

In the kit of the Porsche 911 GT1 Street (TA03R) was hard damper oil (#900) included, in my Porsche 934 Turbo (TA02SW) soft damper oil (#400), so I will try a compromise with the medium oil (#600).

yr5vm492.jpg

 

And installed on the front gear box:

ikbhbh58.jpg

wzdidk3n.jpg

 

In the manual are also turnbuckles for the upper arms (front and rear) shown as hop-ups. My TA03F PRO David Jun will get this also from the beginning:

zvb2mtzo.jpg

qz62gmbk.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

Nice, Looks great and very authentic, very careful build. There are too many untidy ta03s out there. When once in a while a David Jun appears on ebay it mostly looks "verbastelt" (messed up tuning) Good job in sourcing the 53316 alu c hubs and the universals ! And the alu knuckles are also very rare.. I love these dampers, they're great. I had a set of one of those sitting in my mums cellar for 20 years after some running and a eurocup race, and they still worked like brandnew.. I think the David Jun look with the silver parts and the neon sway bars is so much nicer than the new trf stuff with far too much blue bling. 

Posted

I also love older chassis from the 90's (TA01, TA02, TA03, FF01,...) upgraded with frp or carbon double decks more than a full option competition chassis from (for example) the TRF-series.

TRF cars are competitions cars with max. weight reduction (open gearboxes/spur gears, carbon decks, alloy/titanium parts,...), which are for my use cases (driving on the street before my house or on parking lots) oversized.

Or maybe, because the older chassis (rallye/touring cars and/or also buggies) and their bodies have a character, which modern racing/competition cars (without "realistic" bodywork) in my opinion not have.

  • Like 1
Posted

This week I continued the build with the carbon deck as long as I haven't all parts of the rear gear case in black.

With the J-parts and carbon deck from @Quincy and the steering linkage of the Porsche 911 GT1, the result after half an hour was this:

utsrbket.jpg
 

My TA03F PRO included also the "53238 M-Chassis Quick Release Battery Holder". After some polishing, the battery holder looks like new out of the box:

z4fqs69d.jpg

z4fqs69d.jpg


After finishing the carbon deck and the steering linkage, I decided not to wait until having all parts in black (perhaps this can lasting months or even years).
The dampers and the differential gear were already finished, so the assembly of the gear housing was done quickly.

7892rsii.jpg

uu8g4juc.jpg

mjkalpqc.jpg

kdk72b8b.jpg

idtaa73a.jpg
 

Looks not so pretty as completely in black, but better a finished black/grey chassis than to have an unfinished black chassis standing around for months.

 

What I'm was not aware, that the front damper stay of the Porsche 911 GT1 Street (which I want to use in the rear) isn't the same as the rear one (which I'm using in the front).
The mounting holes for the dampers are lower, which would mean that the ground clearance at the rear would be greater, if I'm using the same damper config as in the front.

Maybe this issue will also be solved when I find black B-parts (rear gear housing), because there is also the correct damper stay included.
An alternative would be to use spacer inside the rear dampers or buy additional A-parts from the Porsche 911 GT1.

Next steps will be the mounting of the front and rear gear hounsings with the chassis...

  • Like 2
Posted

This weekend I had time to work on my TA03F and complete the chassis by mounting the front and rear gearbox with the chassis plates.

k94qx45g.jpg
 

Eight screws from the bottom and and two from the top side hold the front gearbox with the lower chassis deck together.

txfnzafd.jpg

After that the drive belt has to be installed. By the way, it was the first drive belt installation in my RC life :)

i8hqt9t4.jpg

lpfcfdyg.jpg
 

The rear gearbox is fixed by six screws with the lower chassis deck. View from the bottom...

mskj9b2e.jpg

 

...and from the top.

yd8eewao.jpg

g2kgvota.jpg

8ciadrj3.jpg

 

Finally I assembled the upper chassis deck.

5y6idul9.jpg

nko8mpqw.jpg

xdwrr6cx.jpg

 

And this week arrived a period correct motor for a TA03F, a Dyna Run Super Touring Motor. Not in MINT condition, but definitely sufficient for my requirements :)

97oxdp5p.jpg

xam5karx.jpg

ruxhzln5.jpg

 

And this week I'm expecting another package, which means one less part on my missing parts list :)

 

  • Like 7
Posted
16 hours ago, M 800STD said:

Got such a soft spot for this car.

Cost me a small fortune building mine.

There's a lot people who can relate to that! 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Only a short update for today à la „the postman brought me“:

spacer.png

I hope to have time at the weekend to build in these parts.

The list of missing parts becomes shorter… :)

 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Posted

As @wtcc5 mentioned I also worked on my custom anti roll bar at the weekend.

I bought spring steel wires in different diameters (1.2mm, 1.5mm and 1.8mm) and tested what works similar to the original Tamiya anti roll bar from my TA03F Pro.

Then I bent a pair each from 1.5mm (LHS) and 1.8mm wire (in the middle). For comparision with the original one (RHS):

s8yiahlk.jpg


After applying the primer...

4mj3j46z.jpg

 

...and the finish with fluorescent yellow paint:

9hxxb6qw.jpg

 

Unfortunately, the camera can't reproduce the color properly, in real life the color is much nicer :)

  • Like 3
Posted

Hi, nice to see it coming together. Where did you get the 53288? Great idea with the paint on the stabilizers. I have bent stabilizers but never painted them as I thought it doesn't last... I mean, even the original ones' paint doesn't hold on.... But it looks promising and I want to do the same. Which type of paint did you use? Thanx, regards

Posted

The NIB 53288 was offered in a auction in the UK. Not cheap, but still within budget. Regarding the painted anti roll bar I used a standard paint for metall/stone/... from a local do-it-yourself store.

Beside the DIY anti roll bar I've got now all missing parts to complete the DJ Edition (some already received, some are still on a longer journey from the USA). I think there will even be another car made from the remaining parts :)

 

 

Posted
16 hours ago, Sgt.Speirs said:

As @wtcc5 mentioned I also worked on my custom anti roll bar at the weekend.

I bought spring steel wires in different diameters (1.2mm, 1.5mm and 1.8mm) and tested what works similar to the original Tamiya anti roll bar from my TA03F Pro.

Then I bent a pair each from 1.5mm (LHS) and 1.8mm wire (in the middle). For comparision with the original one (RHS):

spacer.png

 

After applying the primer...

spacer.png

 

...and the finish with fluorescent yellow paint:

spacer.png

 

Unfortunately, the camera can't reproduce the color properly, in real life the color is much nicer :)

A decent colour match👍

16352828132682902163767798736809.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Last weekend I found also time to install the aluminum rear uprights.

vv3ccr8a.jpg

ybclilfy.jpg


After disassembly of the rear plastic uprights:

komb7vck.jpg

qlr7fvuo.jpg


Finished installation:

4sqm3sle.jpg

tvefwifa.jpg

8yjaqbzg.jpg

ozcyocyg.jpg


At the weekend I also made two successful bids on auction platform, where the first parcel already arrived yesterday:

i59jacu4.jpg

 

Besides the immediately apparent "TA03 Aluminum Motor Heat Sink" (53275), the car is also equipped with the "TA03 Carbon Steering Bar", "Hollow Carbon Gear Shaft TA03" (53260), "Aluminum Servo Stays (Short)" (56596) and two aluminum pulleys (16T) (53286) which I've already had.

These parts will also find their way into my DJ edition and the new chassis will be used as a runner.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

As written on Friday, all missing parts arrived. First I had to deassembly the rear gearbox to replace the grey gearbox house by the black one.
I had to replace also the rear damper stay which was until now the low profile type of the TA03R in the front.

n6stzouf.jpg

Then I followed the manual starting from step 10 again...

3aydvgoc.jpg

8xgylo2z.jpg

i4w7qi8b.jpg

wixqq6c8.jpg

vb6966ts.jpg

 

In this step, I replaced also the steering bar by the Carbon one...

a63mpbad.jpg

...and the washer by the Carbon Stabilizer Support.

dtbzm99b.jpg

The TA03 Aluminum Motor Plate (53357) is no standard part of the David Jun Edition, but in later TA03F Pro kits (e.g. Drift Spec) mentioned. So I will use this plate, too.

ht8wssy3.jpg  pds4hzzv.jpg

 

Current intermediate state...

2f4mgl3g.jpg

26mfo9l7.jpg

elfksads.jpg

5dkn29b2.jpg

eoiav7qd.jpg

hyi8mokf.jpg


For the wheels I have decided to use the "Reinforced One-Piece Spoke Wheels" (53335).

lsbsvumb.jpg


Finished...and now the final chassis:

np85o6vu.jpg

acv5is8r.jpg

8uyjm67d.jpg

8quiwxwk.jpg

r4ebgpib.jpg

227qyuyj.jpg

gtdfepq5.jpg  mggbxcll.jpg

 

 

And to close the circle to the first post...

jnmnoixv.jpg

 

  • Like 8

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