Superluminal 3750 Posted March 18, 2022 badword!!! Youve not had the best of luck in the TD4 venture so far. Have you had chance to give it a half decent run so far? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7885 Posted March 18, 2022 Really sorry to hear that. Sucks when clubs close. If its any consolation I have really enjoyed following this build. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1581 Posted March 19, 2022 Thanks guys, I’m a little bummed out by it and now face the choice of finding a club further away or deciding to move on to another project. I do like the builds, but kinda thought this might be the car I actually race…sigh Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7885 Posted March 19, 2022 I have to say I started out purely as a buggy guy, but racing has really got me into the on road stuff. I find indoor racing frustrating (although I haven't tried any of the m-chassis/12th scale classes that seem better suited to it) but I love racing on the asphalt outdoors. If your club has a class for Iconic Tamiya that's also usually pretty relaxed and you can get something to tinker with. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1581 Posted March 19, 2022 2 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said: I have to say I started out purely as a buggy guy, but racing has really got me into the on road stuff. I find indoor racing frustrating (although I haven't tried any of the m-chassis/12th scale classes that seem better suited to it) but I love racing on the asphalt outdoors. If your club has a class for Iconic Tamiya that's also usually pretty relaxed and you can get something to tinker with. Agreed. And let’s not get started on additive……. thankfully we do have a stock euro truck class, which is perfect. No messing around, just stick it down and drive. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1581 Posted March 26, 2022 looks like the club might actually close!, which is a shocker, so def no way i'll be racing this. So after a final photoshoot it will be up for sale. but....that does mean the sale will fund a new project.....which means i can start a new build thread! rejoice! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BruiseWayn 37 Posted March 26, 2022 On 1/16/2022 at 10:30 PM, Busdriver said: I did very similar cut lines to you( but by mistake) I cut the black panels out but left the bit over the screws. I think it looks much better. A more formula 1/ jet fighter look. I also painted in the transparent sections. Did a very simple paint scheme of BRG and Yellow in a 1960’s lotus homage. reminds me of Harrod's Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toyolien 4681 Posted March 26, 2022 1 hour ago, matisse said: looks like the club might actually close!, which is a shocker, so def no way i'll be racing this. So after a final photoshoot it will be up for sale. but....that does mean the sale will fund a new project.....which means i can start a new build thread! rejoice! Can you share what your new project will be? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1581 Posted March 27, 2022 9 hours ago, toyolien said: Can you share what your new project will be? It will be a DT02, that I might go a little far with. Should be fun though. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Busdriver 6209 Posted March 27, 2022 11 hours ago, BruiseWayn said: reminds me of Harrod's Yes , though there’s was more gold. I was going for 1960’s lotus. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redlinegw 59 Posted May 4, 2022 On 9/7/2021 at 1:20 PM, matisse said: So once again I took a wild leap at something that would have been amazing (imo) but it didn’t pay off. My plan was to create the shocks I wanted for the TD4 seeing as Tamiya don’t make them. Having had the Aeration shocks and not really getting on with them I hoped to combine the DF03 with the CC01 to create something that had the looks I wanted. Problem is that the top caps on the CC01 are smaller than the DF03. shame, as I think the gold caps with the black adjuster looks pretty great on the DF03 shock body. ahh well, I’ll have to settle for building them with TRF seals, Xrings and Low Friction V parts. I just installed the aeration shocks and they work great! Smooth as butter however at correct ride height and full droop the springs are ultra loose on the body’s ☹️ Not sure how to fix it. Have you run into this issue? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1581 Posted May 4, 2022 12 hours ago, redlinegw said: I just installed the aeration shocks and they work great! Smooth as butter however at correct ride height and full droop the springs are ultra loose on the body’s ☹️ Not sure how to fix it. Have you run into this issue? I used the TRF501X spring set, not the kit springs as you are, so that’s probably a big difference. from the looks of it you may need to use a longer spring up front to solve this. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Superluminal 3750 Posted May 20, 2023 Arrrrrriiiiiiiiiiiiiiisssssssee 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1581 Posted May 20, 2023 So the wheel spins and we are back with a TD chassis, but this time a TD2. Already has a slipper and a YR gear diff so thats the really essential upgrades taken care of and I still have the TRF dampers that didnt go on the TT-02BR build. outline plan id two fold: 1) attempt a TD2T b) Madcap 3.0 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1581 Posted May 28, 2023 Whilst I’m still trying to figure out wether the aqroshot shell will fit, i thought id do a few little bits. Had a few parts kept from the TT-02BR build, specifically the Aeration Buggy Dampers and the alloy hexes. The concensus seems to be that the ABD dont work too well in the TD2 due to being emulsion style and having all the air up by the seals. Now, i cant see this as an issue, but even if it was i build them bladder style anyway. The Big Bore shock fitting kit is great, it should be standard tbh and i’d recommend it to anyone using the ABD on any build. The low friction hex head ball stud for the bottom fitment is so choice. Then fitted the Alloy Hexes, some ABEC5 bearings in the hubs and a couple of the ball stud fixes I’d done on my TD4, replacing the inner ball studs with bolt through versions for extra strength. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuggyDad 4476 Posted May 28, 2023 47 minutes ago, matisse said: ... i build them bladder style anyway. The Big Bore shock fitting kit is great, it should be standard tbh and i’d recommend it to anyone using the ABD on any build. The low friction hex head ball stud for the bottom fitment is so choice. Is the fitting kit a specific part number? Also, interested to know how you build them bladder style and what you need to do so? I have a set of Aeration Buggy Dampers and a few different things they might go on (inc a TD4) so I'm interested in understanding these options. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1581 Posted May 28, 2023 20 minutes ago, BuggyDad said: Is the fitting kit a specific part number? Also, interested to know how you build them bladder style and what you need to do so? I have a set of Aeration Buggy Dampers and a few different things they might go on (inc a TD4) so I'm interested in understanding these options. The fitting kit is 22060, its for the Big Bore apparently but it fits the ABD perfectly. To build them bladder style, you simply need the TRF Oil Seal Hop-Up, 53576. I still drill out the cap hole as this gives the option to run them vented if the track needs it. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuggyDad 4476 Posted May 28, 2023 29 minutes ago, matisse said: The fitting kit is 22060, its for the Big Bore apparently but it fits the ABD perfectly. To build them bladder style, you simply need the TRF Oil Seal Hop-Up, 53576. I still drill out the cap hole as this gives the option to run them vented if the track needs it. Ah. Thanks. So I guess you'd go for 2x the fitting kit, for front and rear? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toyolien 4681 Posted May 28, 2023 17 minutes ago, BuggyDad said: Ah. Thanks. So I guess you'd go for 2x the fitting kit, for front and rear? No, #22060 is just for the front of the Astute. The rears fit without any extra parts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1581 Posted May 28, 2023 21 minutes ago, toyolien said: No, #22060 is just for the front of the Astute. The rears fit without any extra parts. I actually would, and I may do just for the bottom hex head ball end, its much better than either the stick plastic or the hop-up aluminium pillow ball. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuggyGuy 1106 Posted May 29, 2023 For the fitting of the rear aeration dampers, I found the best solution was to wind a long set screw into the arm and then secure the shock to it with an M3 lock nut. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nick-W 1494 Posted May 29, 2023 22 hours ago, matisse said: To build them bladder style, you simply need the TRF Oil Seal Hop-Up, 53576. I still drill out the cap hole as this gives the option to run them vented if the track needs it. That’s really handy to know. Thanks. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matisse 1581 Posted June 3, 2023 Been playing with fitting the Madcap shell to the TD2, with lines inspired by Mifco RC on insta ( who is probably on here) and their Super Madcap on the TD4 Happy with the front, plenty of clearance for the rocker arms, still deciding on the side pods, whether to trim it Madcap style or to keep the sides square as mifco did. what is VERY interesting is that the Madcap shell mount holes match up perfectly with the front mount and the two extra mounts at the rear, its almost as if it was designed that way……… 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
