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matisse

Astutely Forward!!! - TD4 & TD2 builds

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43 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

I did very similar cut lines to you( but by mistake) I cut the black panels out but left the bit over the screws. I think it looks much better. A more formula 1/ jet fighter look. I also painted in the transparent sections. Did a very simple paint scheme of BRG and Yellow in a 1960’s lotus homage.

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Nice! Agreed on the cut lines, suits the body shell better imo

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For a new model I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many non box art models from members. Not just the colour schemes but the painting in of the transparencies!!

I think the end result is gorgeous, in fact I think is the best looking one for ages from any manufacturer. Well done Mr T. Having said that don’t fancy changing the battery on a cold winters day with numb fingers. People complained about the XV01’s battery compartment but that’s a doddle!!

Cant wait for TD2!!

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Big post day, huge.

327785D2-CA60-4082-AF08-4F602704F553.md.
 

all that I needed to complete the build, and some tyres. :) 

tyres first, Schumacher Mezzo rear and Fusion 2 fronts. These are the Astro turf set.

8E6572A4-1B59-4EB6-98DE-335A0A276BCF.md.

F9723136-690D-482A-90F5-D01ECF03E094.md.

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As mentioned earlier, replacing the std ball studs with Hard Hex Head studs in key places for strength reasons, but also for ease of removal. Vaguely remembered Paisen saying something about adding a spacer on one of the Tamiya RC Live streams and turns out they are 1mm shorter than the stock studs. To start with the same geometry as the stock build I’m dropping a 1mm spacer under each stud as I fit them.

56D97863-1B3C-4F0E-A42C-EB28FAD25100.md.
Stock 
 

AFB8667D-F49E-4FAE-A2DC-797798EC8C2E.md.Hard Hex Head

So the Suspension links are now complete and the rear inner camber link has a stronger ball stud .

F56DD6DC-2581-47AB-9A26-D581062EE64F.md.

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8649A0F6-6494-4473-99EF-A1F95DFE461D.md.
 

to be fair these are probably more useful if you don’t have the hop-up hinge pin mount, seeing as you now only need 2, but it’s a hop-up so may as well eh? 
 

D4FED491-DDBB-44BE-ADD0-BE34F8993CB7.md.

 

 

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Another good post day, TRF stickers, 501X F+R spring sets and some potential rubber plugs to replace the plastic slipper nut cover. Off of eBay obvs:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Snap-on-Silicone-Rubber-Blanking-End-Caps-Tube-Inserts-Plug-Bung-2-5mm-50-6mm-/154717164395?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Measured the diameter needed to be 9mm, with an inner diameter of apx 6mm, which handily they supply.

24974599-516A-46D4-95B7-B9F83A5EBF59.md.
 

The great shame is that it’s both too deep and the lip is too wide, but trim that off and it appears to fit fine.

E6F5BC24-1A05-4116-B118-4E050449358D.md.
 

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51ECB7BB-9609-463A-AF76-1746DEDCB89B.md.
 

Time will tell if it works. But it seems more secure than the stock plastic part, and the body shell presses against it which may help.

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Finally, shocks.

Aeration buggy shocks this time, I didn’t have the heart to go through making the DF03 ones I did before nor the money for the Big Bores. 

1AEB01E9-C1B7-4E61-B020-01BC972D25B5.md.

PJ came through as usual, as well as 501x spring sets and VG orings (which I got by mistake instead of Xrings)

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Mmmmmm green slime…..

1122FBB7-9762-403F-8570-BCD66C1C12D4.md.
 

A parts from the TD4 kit as per the instructions.

My Tamiya Blue aversion continues, stripped the collars, letting them tarnish and then polishing with 1200/3000 grit and Autosol.

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BOOM!! Much better.

Front: AE 35wt with 501x Blue springs

Rear: AE 30wt with 501x Yellow Springs


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Proper photoshoot soon.

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On 1/19/2022 at 2:57 PM, matisse said:

Another good post day, TRF stickers, 501X F+R spring sets and some potential rubber plugs to replace the plastic slipper nut cover. Off of eBay obvs:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Snap-on-Silicone-Rubber-Blanking-End-Caps-Tube-Inserts-Plug-Bung-2-5mm-50-6mm-/154717164395?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Measured the diameter needed to be 9mm, with an inner diameter of apx 6mm, which handily they supply.

24974599-516A-46D4-95B7-B9F83A5EBF59.md.
 

The great shame is that it’s both too deep and the lip is too wide, but trim that off and it appears to fit fine.

E6F5BC24-1A05-4116-B118-4E050449358D.md.
 

4F270B20-04A8-471D-8664-94BC39F2094E.md.
 

51ECB7BB-9609-463A-AF76-1746DEDCB89B.md.
 

Time will tell if it works. But it seems more secure than the stock plastic part, and the body shell presses against it which may help.

If you had to order those plugs again, is there a size you think would fit with no trimming needed ?

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1 hour ago, rwordenjr said:

If you had to order those plugs again, is there a size you think would fit with no trimming needed ?

They look to be 3-4mm deep once the end is cut off

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On 1/24/2022 at 8:43 AM, rwordenjr said:

And less than 9mm right ?

9mm OD

6mm ID

5mm depth

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2 hours ago, rwordenjr said:

okay thanks. how cap holding up on yours?

I’ll let you know when I’ve run it! :)

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Real issues getting this thing up and running, esc not responding and kept being stuck in sensorless mode. Cue a good hour or so of wrenching on the motor to check on the hall sensors, and me realising that the TD4 is a pig to work on once it’s built….sigh.

anyway, turns out the receive cable was fraying at the exit from the esc case, which is great as it’s brand new…..double sigh.

came this close to just selling the whole thing last night….very frustrating.

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On 1/28/2022 at 11:16 PM, matisse said:

Real issues getting this thing up and running, esc not responding and kept being stuck in sensorless mode. Cue a good hour or so of wrenching on the motor to check on the hall sensors, and me realising that the TD4 is a pig to work on once it’s built….sigh.

anyway, turns out the receive cable was fraying at the exit from the esc case, which is great as it’s brand new…..double sigh.

came this close to just selling the whole thing last night….very frustrating.

Yep, 10+ screws every time you want to work on anything.

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Looks like I have a chance of a warranty return on the esc, so that’s good news.

Also switching from the stock 2 hole pistons to 3 hole tapered, see if I can revise the pack a little on the dampers.

Covid Iso means I have another 12 days before the next race meeting so should be enough time. 🙏 

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On 1/29/2022 at 7:16 AM, matisse said:

Real issues getting this thing up and running, esc not responding and kept being stuck in sensorless mode. Cue a good hour or so of wrenching on the motor to check on the hall sensors, and me realising that the TD4 is a pig to work on once it’s built….sigh.

anyway, turns out the receive cable was fraying at the exit from the esc case, which is great as it’s brand new…..double sigh.

came this close to just selling the whole thing last night….very frustrating.

Yes… hard to beat the top force for ease of working on them!

at least if it’s built and sorted realistically you should not need to do much.

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13 hours ago, matisse said:

Looks like I have a chance of a warranty return on the esc, so that’s good news.

Also switching from the stock 2 hole pistons to 3 hole tapered, see if I can revise the pack a little on the dampers.

Covid Iso means I have another 12 days before the next race meeting so should be enough time. 🙏 

Fingers crossed for you!

What track / surface will you be racing on?

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On 1/31/2022 at 11:28 PM, BuggyGuy said:

Fingers crossed for you!

What track / surface will you be racing on?

Mixed surface indoor ( carpet and polished wooden floor) and Astro outdoor

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Finally some progress!

esc has been sent back to the manufacturer and a warranty replacement is on the way, result!

PJ package finally arrived, so swapped out the stock pistons for 3 hole tapered ones. Needed extra spacing shims as they are thinner as expectedc but the pack seems less already. Interestingly, the angle of the front shocks seems to change how they work. They are not as smooth as the rears, I’m assuming it’s because the air pocket is now near the seals and not the cap. 

1265517E-984E-4487-92FE-97A03ABCA762.md.

anywho, re built everything as the Tuninghaus brand shock grease was a disaster, dissolved into a goo almost instantly. Trying 1up grease this time, seems a better consistency and the seals feel a lot smoother.

740CAB75-DC2D-4224-980E-1924B7F990A3.md.

Pre esc installation.

1CAB73AB-F07B-4B22-8B50-EA1164E4FF7B.md.
arty shot….

0DA48F4A-0D09-4CA1-8520-3DE98AC0E1F3.md.

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I really need to find the time to start racing this, maybe I’ll stop upgrading it…..

to whit: found the HL shock bodies on FB so they are on the way.

Also switching to bladders instead of aeration, mostly as I find h the fronts a little weird. The angle makes the air rise to the seals, making the shock feel significantly less smooth on the bench test (and way noisier). Probably  makes little difference to handling, but it was an excuse to buy TRF Bladders and Urethane foams.  
 

I need to stop spending money on this…..

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Completely forgot that I ordered the front UJs. 

Got the email from modelsport saying they are in the post today. 

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2 hours ago, Howards said:

Completely forgot that I ordered the front UJs. 

Got the email from modelsport saying they are in the post today. 

Haha, I think that’s happening to a lot of us at the moment with all the shipping delays.

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In the time it’s taken to get this sorted (iM busy okay…..) the club I go to has dropped off-road racing….

then a new club opened even closer! For on road only…….

starting to think that racing this isn’t going to happen. Sigh

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