Advice for First Time RC Car

[alvinlwh 5895]

1 hour ago, museguy said:

 

Hobbywing QuicRun 1060 Brushed ESC $30 with shipping

 

Most will tell you to just get this one and that will be the end of it. You can go off that brand a little, and get any 60A/320A ESC to save a little bit of money. I got a Surpass one which I use with my 23x2t motor and it works fine. The OOB ST motor is quite mild to begin with and even works with a 101 ESC in my LB. Also, Tamiya ESC are not recommended if you plan to go lipo in the future as their LV cutoff is too low (I believe) meaning you will end up with needing an alarm. 

What you will find with most AM ESC is that the switch is too small and cable too short (should be OK with a TT02) to use the Tamiya switch bracket/position. There are few solutions to this:

1. Live with it and have the switch under the body shell. 

2. Cut off the switch and short it to permanently on. 

3. Extend the cables. 

4. Change the switch. 

One word of warning for running the cable around the bathtub and just taping the switch outside; I did that and instantly cut both cables the first time I drove off a kerb and ended up needing to patch and extend the cables anyway. 

[TurnipJF 9192]

16 hours ago, museguy said:

- Can you receommeded wheels and tires ?  One set for offroad and one set for pavement ?  

Tamiya's own "Rally Block" offroad/rally tyres are pretty good, offering decent grip and wear rates. You can also get softer Chinese knock-offs which offer better grip but don't last as long.

On-road tyres are very surface-dependent and can also be restricted/mandated by class rules, so I would strongly recommend checking with your club as to what is allowed/recommended for the racing class you wish to participate in.

In the meantime, you could get a set of generic Chinese cheapies for practice purposes. They only need to last until December, so pretty much any set will do. There are loads of rim styles and tread patterns out there - just pick a set that appeals to you visually.

 

11 hours ago, museguy said:

I am going through your message and double checked the TT-02D does NOT come with an ESC "ESC specifications (sold separately)".

The TT-02D kit does come with the tuned 540 but not an ESC. The cost of the Tamiya ESC is more than a brushless motor and ESC. Suggestions ?

In that case, you can go two different routes - get a basic ESC to work with your brushed motor, or get a brushless ESC/motor setup. The former would probably be my recommendation at this point. The Quicrun 1060 or one of its cheaper clones would get you going with minimal expenditure, until such time as you can confirm with your club as to what motor and ESC combo is most appropriate for your racing class of choice. Motors are typically also restricted/mandated by class rules, and you would choose your ESC to suit your motor.

Don't be concerned about the switch - the TT-02 is designed to have the switch mounted to the inside of the tub with strong double-sided tape rather than screwed to a mounting plate, so standard and non-standard switches work just fine.

In the mean time, please don't be tempted to go for a cheap sensorless brushless motor. These typically don't suit any formal racing class, and aren't all that good for drifting either since they lack the precise throttle control required. For any sort of even vaguely serious racing or drifting, you want a sensored brushless motor and ESC, or an old-school brushed one if appropriate for your class. The throttle control is far superior, especially at lower speeds.

[Pylon80 2629]

I would agree with @TurnipJF JF, until you go to the actual track where you intend to race the car and you talk to the guys, you have no idea what ESC/motor you will need. The 1060 works perfectly and will get you going with the stock brushed motor. This combo will seem slow when "bashing" (if just going aimlessly full throttle in an empty parking lot) but will seem already too fast when you actually try the car on a real track with unforgiving curbs/boards.

Some advice I would offer:

- This is a fascinating and very complete (and complex) hobby, there is much to try and everything is exciting. On-road racing, off-road racing, speed runs, drifting, scale builds etc. But you have to choose a starting point and enjoy that thoroughly first. As others have pointed out, one single car will not race, drift, entertain young kids, do speed runs and then race off road on a second set of tires. It is safer to be realistic and pick one side of the hobby first.

- One item I have not noticed others recommend for the TT-02 are clamp type wheel hexes. The kit ones are one-piece chunks of somewhat soft plastic that will fall off or misalign with the locking pin when you change tires. These are not very usable in my opinion. Ebay has incredibly cheap ones that work just fine. Just search for "RC car 12mm wheel hex" and pick your thickness.

- The kit front drive axles, whether on a standard TT-02 or a better R or D, are in 3 parts: (1) diff outdrive, (2) dogbone and (3) drive shaft (on which the hex and wheel go). On a race track the slightest tap with a wall will knock the dogbone and possibly the diff outdrive loose. You will then spend 15min bent over walking on the track (that is if other drivers let you) searching for the parts. So sadly you will need to spend on so-called "universal driveshafts" for track use.

- As you can see each person has his own list of supposedly "mandatory" upgrades, I do too! That speaks volume about what the car in its stock form will be like. Which leads to this: the TT-02 is a fantastic chassis for beginners since it is so versatile and straight forward to build. But beware! If you are detail oriented and in search of adjustability, or a slop-free setup the upgrades will be tempting you. You will easily spend more than the cost of a TRF chassis before you know it. If that last bit made anyone smile then I wish I were exaggerating but I am not. Upgrades expenditures are a slow bleed which can go un-diagnosed until you are left with an expensive (and ever disappointing) car.

- Lastly a general piece of advice that I am sure others will relate to is not to try and chase setup changes or make upgrades (other than reliability and practicality ones discussed above) until you can drive 10 laps in a row at the track without hitting anything and looking smooth as as fast as the car can go in its current state.

Hope these perhaps blunt but honest words will help.

[TurnipJF 9192]

Some good points raised by @Pylon80 - alloy hexes are indeed a good idea. They are tougher than the stock ones, and also better for use in cold conditions where the plastic ones trend to crack.

I suspect that a bit of bad luck occurred at some point which led to the CVD recommendation though. I have been racing TT cars for several years now, as well as other dogbone equipped chassis, and the only one that has ever shed a dogbone in a collision is my FF-01 following an upper turnbuckle failure. CVDs are nice, don't get me wrong, but unless you are really unlucky like @Pylon80 appears to have been, I wouldn't consider them essential for racing.

(But then on the other hand maybe I have been unusually lucky with my crashes. If you do indeed find your dogbones falling out regularly, CVDs would address the issue as @Pylon80 has correctly stated.)

[djmcnz 754]

Here's a cheap esc/motor combo that I can recommend, I use a 55T version of this in my Hi-Lift and it's absolutely fine.

This is a 13T example but there's are 17T and up options also. I mean for US$35 from a reputable brand that will be hard to beat.

https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-tritronic-1-10-waterproof-60a-esc-w-hackmoto-v2-13t-brushed-motor-combo-set-cb0812-00059976

 

[Sir Crashalot 235]

If you want to race you should research what clubs are in your area, and what classes are available. Then check the rules for the class you want to race in. You could visit a club you're interested in during a meet and speak to people there about classes, rules etc.

The rules will define chassis, hop-ups, tires, electrics etc that are allowed. This may alter what you need/want for your car.

Generally first-time participants can show up and run a suitable car not within the rules just to get a feel for racing, have some fun and meet people at the club.

[Jonathon Gillham 4606]

2 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

Some good points raised by @Pylon80 - alloy hexes are indeed a good idea. They are tougher than the stock ones, and also better for use in cold conditions where the plastic ones trend to crack.

I suspect that a bit of bad luck occurred at some point which led to the CVD recommendation though. I have been racing TT cars for many years now, as well as other dogbone equipped chassis, and the only one that has ever shed a dogbone in a collision is my FF-01 following an upper turnbuckle failure. CVDs are nice, don't get me wrong, but unless you are really unlucky like @Pylon80 appears to have been, I wouldn't consider them essential for racing.

(But then on the other hand maybe I have been unusually lucky with my crashes. If you do indeed find your dogbones falling out regularly, CVDs would address the issue as @Pylon80 has correctly stated.)

You are very lucky. My club runs a TT02 class with minimal hop ups allowed and they amended the rules last year to allow universals up front, purely because of all the DNF. This is an entry level class so approx half the racers are new but it was a common complaint from the experienced racers too. And I mean experienced, one raced a Fox when they were new!

My sons TT02 started as D, it has front universals and I used shock pistons are washers to stop the kingpins pulling through on the front. Its now reliable for racing. Others run all available hop ups including alloy driveshaft and motor mount but I don't see the point.

@Sir Crashalot makes some very good points too. A TT02 will be allowed to race in an all comers class but may not fit the other classes. Tamiya don't really make a good entry level kit as the TA cars need hop ups to compete. The Express XQ2S or similar will compete with the best with minimal additional spending, I think they just need swaybars, otherwise the kit is great out of the box.

Treat the TT02 as the start point and enjoy it for what it is. Then look at dedicated cars for specific purposes like race, offroad, drift etc

[alvinlwh 5895]

9 hours ago, djmcnz said:

Here's a cheap esc/motor combo that I can recommend, I use a 55T version of this in my Hi-Lift and it's absolutely fine.

This is a 13T example but there's are 17T and up options also. I mean for US$35 from a reputable brand that will be hard to beat.

https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-tritronic-1-10-waterproof-60a-esc-w-hackmoto-v2-13t-brushed-motor-combo-set-cb0812-00059976

 

Don't the kit OP bought already comes with a ST motor? All he needs is an ESC to run that motor. I think a 13T, or even a 17T is overkill for a first timer, IMO, and that is before even getting into gearing. I mean we can all suggest the best or fastest everything, but if the car crashed straight into a wall and became a pile of parts will kill the hobby dead straight away. IMHO. My TT-01 is completely self destructive even on a 23T.

[djmcnz 754]

56 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

Don't the kit OP bought already comes with a ST motor?

I have no idea, didn't look.

56 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

I think a 13T, or even a 17T is overkill for a first timer, IMO, and that is before even getting into gearing. I mean we can all suggest the best or fastest everything, but if the car crashed straight into a wall and became a pile of parts will kill the hobby dead straight away. IMHO. My TT-01 is completely self destructive even on a 23T.

I wasn't suggesting a 13T, indeed I mentioned that there were many options, just that it was a combo that I had experience with (mine was a 55T combo!).

The point of my post was to highlight that you can get a good, matched, ESC and motor for not much money and it doesn't need to be a complex proposition. If I were just starting out a lot of the information in this thread, whilst provided with the best of intentions, would do my head in.

[museguy 39]

Hi All,

Thank you all for your guidance and support !

Well...learning that the Nismo R34 GT-R TT-02D Chassis does not include the ESC, I decided to cancel the order and instead ordered the Subaru Impreza Monte Carlo `99 TT-02 Chassis.

Subaru Impreza Monte Carlo `99 TT-02 Chassis $179 with shipping from Hobby Search

Next I will order road tires and wheels, bearings and paint.

@alvinlwh @TurnipJF @Willy iine You have been great ! Very much appreciate you sharing your knowledge and your patience with my questions. Thank you !

Cheers

[Willy iine 18806]

@museguy Nice choice, I love that rally car.  GL with the build.   

[alvinlwh 5895]

5 minutes ago, museguy said:

Hi All,

Thank you all for your guidance and support !

Well...learning that the Nismo R34 GT-R TT-02D Chassis does not include the ESC, I decided to cancel the order and instead ordered the Subaru Impreza Monte Carlo `99 TT-02 Chassis.

Subaru Impreza Monte Carlo `99 TT-02 Chassis $179 with shipping from Hobby Search

Next I will order road tires and wheels, bearings and paint.

@alvinlwh @TurnipJF @Willy iine You have been great ! Very much appreciate you sharing your knowledge and your patience with my questions. Thank you !

Cheers

Do be aware that the base kit does not come with ANY of the recommend upgrades and you will probably want to factor in the cost of CVAs, etc... Also, be aware that the standard Tamiya ESC can only support down to a 25T TT motor.

[museguy 39]

2 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

@museguy Nice choice, I love that rally car.  GL with the build.   

Thank you @Willy iine !

You have been great. The last few days have been a RC Graduate School for me, bit of a steep learning curve, but starting to get it.

Cheers 

[Willy iine 18806]

@museguy Our hobby and RC industry is ALWAYS looking for new enthusiasts like you, so I am glad you are willing to give it a shot.

 

[museguy 39]

2 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

Do be aware that the base kit does not come with ANY of the recommend upgrades and you will probably want to factor in the cost of CVAs, etc... Also, be aware that the standard Tamiya ESC can only support down to a 25T TT motor.

Thank you @alvinlwh

A bit silly, yesterday I went for a run in the park and I could not see myself playing with Nismo R34 GT-R TT-02D Chassis in the park. The park has dirt paths and lots of roots and stones, just seemed that the Subaru Impreza Monte Carlo `99 TT-02 Chassis would be more fitting for use on the terrain.

Thank you for your support, you have been great !

Cheers

[alvinlwh 5895]

4 minutes ago, museguy said:

Thank you @alvinlwh

A bit silly, yesterday I went for a run in the park and I could not see myself playing with Nismo R34 GT-R TT-02D Chassis in the park. The park has dirt paths and lots of roots and stones, just seemed that the Subaru Impreza Monte Carlo `99 TT-02 Chassis would be more fitting for use on the terrain.

Thank you for your support, you have been great !

Cheers

I think you got the difference between chassis (base where the motor and wheels goes" and body shell (a plastic cover mainly for cosmetic) mixed up. Since the TT-02D and TT-02 are effectively the same, your issue is with the outside looks (body shell), which can be changed at will for not a lot of money. I got a 2001 (IIRC) Subaru Impreza body and a 2020 Ford Fiesta body for my rally hacked TT01. 

[museguy 39]

Hi All,

Updated my lists below.

Ordered:

1. Subaru Impreza Monte Carlo `99 TT-02 Chassis $179 with shipping from Hobby Search
2. Flysky FS-GT5 6CH RC Transmitter with FS BS6 Receiver $90 with shipping
3. ANNIMOS 20KG Digital Servo High Torque Full Metal Gear $23 with shipping
4. Dynamite Prophet Sport Mini 50W Multichemistry Charger $37 with shipping
5. AWANFI 7.2V 3600mAh NiMH Batteries with Tamiya Connector (2 Pack) $32 with shipping
6. TRB RC Ball Bearing Kit (16) Rubber Seals Blue for Tamiya TT-02 $24 with shipping
7. Quicrun 1060 ESC $29 with shipping 
8. Part #54753 Oil Shocks $24 with shipping
9. TOTAL To Date $438

To be Ordered - Please tell me if I am missing anything or making any mistakes 

1. Tires (1) set pavement
2. 2S Battery for Transmitter
3. Paint, Blue, Silver, Black, Gold and Clear
4. Order FS BS6 for second car
5. Future try Futaba 55g Metal Gear Torque Digital Servo Motor ?
6. Cones
7. 2nd Car Buggy for bashing
8. GPS for speed and racing ?
9. Future Brushless Motor ?

Went over my $300 budget, but I have already learned a lot !

I need to go back and review the earlier message for more information and feedback. Thank you !

Cheers

[TurnipJF 9192]

5 hours ago, museguy said:

Hi All,

Thank you all for your guidance and support !

Well...learning that the Nismo R34 GT-R TT-02D Chassis does not include the ESC, I decided to cancel the order and instead ordered the Subaru Impreza Monte Carlo `99 TT-02 Chassis.

Subaru Impreza Monte Carlo `99 TT-02 Chassis $179 with shipping from Hobby Search

Next I will order road tires and wheels, bearings and paint.

I can certainly understand not wanting to run a drift car around a rally course, and it sounds like your terrain is far better suited to a rally car. However you might want to reconsider your order changes, or at least do another cost analysis. 

Reason being is that the Subaru kit you linked to says that it requires the "Fine Spec 2.4G Electric RC Drive Set" which includes an ESC. This in turn suggests that the Subaru kit doesn't come with an ESC either. It might thus be more cost effective to stick with your original TT-02D order and get a rally bodyshell for park trail use?

Alternatively you could stick with your order as it stands, and add a set of 54753 oil shocks?

(And a speed controller of course, if my suspicions about its exclusion are correct.)

 

[alvinlwh 5895]

6 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

I can certainly understand not wanting to run a drift car around a rally course, and it sounds like your terrain is far better suited to a rally car. However you might want to reconsider your order changes, or at least do another cost analysis. 

Reason being is that the Subaru kit you linked to says that it requires the "Fine Spec 2.4G Electric RC Drive Set" which includes an ESC. This in turn suggests that the Subaru kit doesn't come with an ESC either. It might thus be more cost effective to stick with your original TT-02D order and get a rally bodyshell for park trail use?

Alternatively you could stick with your order as it stands, and add a set of 54753 oil shocks?

 

 

You are right! According to the product code, on Tamiya page:

Specifications
●Length: 442mm, Width: 186mm, Height: 140mm ●Wheelbase: 257mm　●Tire Width/Diameter: 27/69mm (Front & Rear) ●Bathtub-type Frame ●Shaft-Driven 4WD ●Front/Rear 4-Bevel Resin Differentials ●3-Piece Steering Tie-Rod ●4-Wheel Double Wishbone Suspension ●Front/Rear Friction Dampers ●Gear Ratio = 9.58:1 (9 further ratios from 11.38:1 to 7.28:1 possible with use of separately-sold pinions) ●Type 540 Motor ●Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) is sold separately.

https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/58631/index.htm

Also on the box. 

[Pylon80 2629]

Interesting, I just bought the Subaru kit and it came with the ESC. I quickly sold that ESC as it was the size of a washing machine and the low voltage cutoff did not support lipo's (enough of an annoyance to me at least).

[Willy iine 18806]

@museguy I think alvinlwh addressed this already, but on your 'To Be Ordered', are you needing the 2S LiPo for your transmitter?  Looking at the battery compartment of the transmitter you chose (I clicked your link) it appears to show it takes AA batteries?   

I run Spektrum DX5Pro-2021 for my off-road cars and I only use AA Eneloops in mine.    nothing fancy, yet very effective.

[alvinlwh 5895]

4 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

@museguy I think alvinlwh addressed this already, but on your 'To Be Ordered', are you needing the 2S LiPo for your transmitter?  Looking at the battery compartment of the transmitter you chose (I clicked your link) it appears to show it takes AA batteries?   

I run Spektrum DX5Pro-2021 for my off-road cars and I only use AA Eneloops in mine.    nothing fancy, yet very effective.

Eneloops? You posh #######! I just use the Poundland Kodak "Heavy" Duties in mine! 

[TurnipJF 9192]

As I understand it, the kits intended for the JDM don't have ESCs included, and those for the export market do. So if buying a kit from abroad and importing it yourself, it may or may not have an ESC included depending on whether it was pulled from domestic or export stock. 

[alvinlwh 5895]

Just now, TurnipJF said:

As I understand it, the kits intended for the JDM don't have ESCs included, and those for the export market do. So if buying a kit from abroad and importing it yourself, it may or may not have an ESC included depending on whether it was pulled from domestic or export stock. 

You are absolutely right. Which is why the ESC "included" kits always have the yellow sticker advertising the fact (which contradicts the box picture). 

[Pylon80 2629]

5 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

@museguy I think alvinlwh addressed this already, but on your 'To Be Ordered', are you needing the 2S LiPo for your transmitter?  Looking at the battery compartment of the transmitter you chose (I clicked your link) it appears to show it takes AA batteries?   

I run Spektrum DX5Pro-2021 for my off-road cars and I only use AA Eneloops in mine.    nothing fancy, yet very effective.

Yep, the transmitter is one place where you don't need lipo's I use NiMh soldered packs but that's because the same transmitter is used for aircraft and helicopters and you don't normally use AA batteries for non surface use. This is just a reliability thing, the consequences of a small glitch in flying machines are instantaneous, costly and can be dangerous.