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26 minutes ago, museguy said:

Hi All,

Today I found a RC club and went to their weekend race.  Spent a couple of hours watching the races and spoke to a few of the group leaders.

They race every second Sunday, next race September 26th.  The track is small the size of a basketball court. About 5-6 racers per race.

All of the races I saw were M Chassis cars or three wheeled T3-01 three wheeled. I didn't see any TT-02 cars.

I would say the people were not very friendly, they spent most of the time trying to talk me out of getting involved, "the hobby is very expensive", "this is a passion not a hobby", "you have to build the car yourself", "the cars break all the time and you need to make repairs". 

I asked about hobby shops to purchase cars and all they would tell me is "this is a very expensive sport". 

In the end all they would offer is that I should buy a car (I told them I bought a TT-02) that I should practice on my own, and they told me this was probably not a hobby for me.

Sounds like they didnt want you to join in on the fun

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5 minutes ago, Original Jardasius said:

Those blokes sound like some *******ers IMO... Seems they didnt want you to be in any part of their club

Dear @Original Jardasius

Thank you.  I was trying to be polite in my message about today and I was very polite in meeting the people. 

But, they were not a welcoming group. 

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30 minutes ago, museguy said:

Hi All,

Today I found a RC club and went to their weekend race.  Spent a couple of hours watching the races and spoke to a few of the group leaders.

They race every second Sunday, next race September 26th.  The track is small the size of a basketball court. About 5-6 racers per race.

All of the races I saw were M Chassis cars or three wheeled T3-01 three wheeled. I didn't see any TT-02 cars.

I would say the people were not very friendly, they spent most of the time trying to talk me out of getting involved, "the hobby is very expensive", "this is a passion not a hobby", "you have to build the car yourself", "the cars break all the time and you need to make repairs". 

I asked about hobby shops to purchase cars and all they would tell me is "this is a very expensive sport". 

In the end all they would offer is that I should buy a car (I told them I bought a TT-02) that I should practice on my own, and they told me this was probably not a hobby for me.

Thats a real shame, and the opposite to what I would expect. Even when one club didn't have a great vibe there were always people more than willing to talk and help new people. We get a few people each meet come have a look and everyone seems to encourage them. That club that wasn't great has had a complete change and its now got an awesome atmosphere and has big meets.

Is there another club nearby?  Its surprising how many there are around if you know where to find them. 

Does it have to be Tamiya M chassis? Express make an M sized car that is basically a smaller touring car.

They are right about one thing - this isn't cheap. But then most hobbies aren't cheap, and once you're set up you just have tyres, bodies and repairs.

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Thank you @Jonathon Gillham

It was not what I expected.  Yes, I sent out more messages this afternoon looking for other clubs in Mexico City.

I left the race more excited about getting involved in racing, that just might not be the right club.

Cheers

P.S. I only saw M Chassis and T3-01 three wheelers at the race.  I went into the pits and only saw those cars on the racers benches.  

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5 hours ago, museguy said:

Hi All,

Today I found a RC club and went to their weekend race.  Spent a couple of hours watching the races and spoke to a few of the group leaders.

They race every second Sunday, next race September 26th.  The track is small the size of a basketball court. About 5-6 racers per race.

All of the races I saw were M Chassis cars or three wheeled T3-01 three wheeled. I didn't see any TT-02 cars.

I would say the people were not very friendly, they spent most of the time trying to talk me out of getting involved, "the hobby is very expensive", "this is a passion not a hobby", "you have to build the car yourself", "the cars break all the time and you need to make repairs". 

I asked about hobby shops to purchase cars and all they would tell me is "this is a very expensive sport". 

In the end all they would offer is that I should buy a car (I told them I bought a TT-02) that I should practice on my own, and they told me this was probably not a hobby for me.

That's not cool, I'm sorry you had that experience.

Don't be dissuaded and you don't need a club to have fun when you're starting out, stick in there.

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Sorry to hear that your first club experience was so unwelcoming @museguy. Having never been to Mexico, I can't comment on what cultural, socio-economic or other factors may have been behind it, but having visited and raced at several clubs in other countries, I am confident that such attitudes are in the minority. In my experience, most are very happy indeed to share their knowledge with newcomers and welcome them to the sport/hobby.

I hope you find just such a welcoming club soon. Until then, please join us in the postal races right here on this forum. All are very welcome indeed!

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If nothing else if you want to get some racing experience there’s our own racing by post series. Not my bag but I often dip into the results.

sorry @TurnipJF just read your bit at the end of previous post!!

Edited by Busdriver
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Hi All,

Tonight I found the Seattle RC Racers website and Specs & Rules Page a very helpful overview of the classes and rules.

USGT: 1/10th scale electric chassis. 5mm minimum ride height. Motors: Tamiya 540 silver can; outdoors at Seatac R/C Raceway–ROAR-approved 21.5 brushless, OEM rotors only ; indoors at Hangar 30–Maclan 25.5 brushless. ROAR-approved non-timing ESC for brushless motors. Tires for all venues: Gravity RC USGT pre-mount. Current allowed bodies here: USGT rules ROAR-approved 7.4V 2S lithium technology batteries. 4WD: 1350g minimum weight. FWD: No minimum weight; hatchback bodies only. Scale livery for all cars is encouraged. Racers are encouraged to operate both within the letter and spirit of the rules.

21.5 Stock Touring: 1/10th scale 4WD touring chassis. 1320g minimum weight. 5mm minimum ride height. ROAR-approved 21.5t brushless motors. ROAR-approved non-timing ESC. Magnuson Park spec tires: Jaco Blue pre-mount. ROAR-approved touring car bodies. ROAR-approved 7.4V 2S lithium technology batteries.

17.5 Super Stock Touring: 1/10th scale 4WD touring chassis. 1320g minimum weight. 5mm minimum ride height. ROAR-approved 17.5t brushless motors. ROAR-approved non-timing ESC. Magnuson Park spec tires: Jaco Blue pre-mount. ROAR-approved touring car bodies. ROAR-approved 7.4V 2S lithium technology batteries.

Modified Touring: 1/10th scale 4WD touring chassis. 1320g minimum weight. 5mm minimum ride height. Any 540-size brushless modified motor. Magnuson Park spec tires: Jaco Blue pre-mount. ROAR-approved touring car bodies. ROAR-approved 7.4V 2s lithium technology batteries. This class for advanced onroad racers only.

Stock 1/12th: 1/12th scale pan car chassis. 730g minimum weight. 3mm minimum ride height. ROAR-approved 17.5t brushless motors. ROAR-approved non-timing ESC. Purple stripe (CRC/BSR/Jaco) or blue stripe (JFT) spec tires. GTP and LMP style bodies. 3.7V 1S low-profile, short, ROAR-approved lithium technology batteries.

Modified 1/12th: 1/12th scale pan car chassis. 730g minimum weight. 3mm minimum ride height. ROAR-approved non-timing ESC. GTP and LMP style bodies. 3.7V 1S or 7.4V 2S low-profile, short, ROAR-approved lithium technology batteries. 1S: any 540-size brushless modified motor. 2S: ROAR-approved 13.5t brushless motor. This class for advanced onroad racers only.

Formula One: Any 1/10th scale rear wheel drive electric chassis. 190mm maximum width. 1050g minimum weight. 4mm minimum ride height. Tamiya 540 silver can or ROAR-approved 21.5t brushless motor. ROAR-approved non-timing ESC for brushless motors. Rubber tires to scale and correct with body. Front and rear wings to scale and correct with body. 7.4V 2S ROAR-approved lithium technology batteries.

Novice: Any 1/10th or 1/12th scale electric chassis. Tamiya 540 silver can; ROAR-approved 25.5t brushless motor recommended. ROAR-approved non-timing ESC required for brushless motors. Maximum 6-cell NiMH or NiCd batteries or maximum 7.4V 2S lithium technology batteries. Lithium technology batteries must be in hard case.

The Specs & Rules Page page also includes a link to the ROAR Rule Book, the USGT rules and the USVTA F1 rules. I assume every country has similar guidelines for racing, I am not sure if Mexico follows ROAR.

Good news, my on order TT-02 fits in the Novice category.

Cheers.  

 

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Hi All,

Today was the first day bashing with the WLToys 144001. I have to say I am glad that I am not learning with the TT-02. I would be heartbroken bashing a newly painted kit.

Tomorrow I pick up the TT-02 at the post office, excited to start building. 

NooB question (embarrassed to ask). Is there a "trick" steering left and right with the car going away from you versus coming towards you ? 

Is it just practice or is there a method ?

I went to a local park with a row of trees and used the trees as a slalom, lots of fun, but find myself doing a lot of counter reacting.

Or in other words, going away from me, right is forward (turning steering wheel forward), coming towards me right in backwards (turning steering wheel towards me)

Thank you !      

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No trick. Just keep practicing.

And get a Runner body for your TT02.  Something you won’t mind getting messed up.  

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2 minutes ago, Frog Jumper said:

No trick. Just keep practicing.

And get a Runner body for your TT02.  Something you won’t mind getting messed up.  

Thank you @Frog Jumper

I will order a cheap body for the TT-02.

Cheers

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Driving an RC car well is like learning to play a musical instrument.  There is a lot of practice needed to get to where you can control the car naturally.  Practice practice practice and practice some more!  :lol:

Have fun, @museguy!

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We have a joke in the US:  if you buy a Jaguar, buy a second for the spare parts…

Do you UK guys have the same joke about US cars???

Terry

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8 hours ago, museguy said:

NooB question (embarrassed to ask). Is there a "trick" steering left and right with the car going away from you versus coming towards you ? 

Is it just practice or is there a method ?

 

No, trick, no. As a kid, I tried a "trick", I reminded myself to steer opposite when the car came toward me. Worked, but not really a good method.

Learn to drive thinking on the cars perspective (IMO that comes more naturally with a wheel radio than with a stick one.) Think of left and right of the car, not from your point of view. That way, it will soon not matter at all, which direction the car is going, relative to your position. This is actually more easily learned on a proper track than on a street or parking lot, as people tend to only drive back and forth an those.

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On 9/21/2021 at 7:31 AM, hIghQ said:

Learn to drive thinking on the cars perspective (IMO that comes more naturally with a wheel radio than with a stick one.) Think of left and right of the car, not from your point of view. That way, it will soon not matter at all, which direction the car is going, relative to your position. This is actually more easily learned on a proper track than on a street or parking lot, as people tend to only drive back and forth an those.

Thank you @hIghQ, helpful advice, 

I am trying to practice driving every day.

It does help to drive from the car's perspective.

Cheers

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Please tell me if you have any feedback, thank you !

DRAFT Beginners Guide to Radio Control (RC) Cars 

I. Introduction:

Radio control (RC) cars are a great way to learn problem solving, engineering, electronics, physics and have fun racing your friends.

I started off this journey knowing next to nothing about radio control (RC) cars.

I had gone to a local park and there was a race of Suzuki Swift RC cars on the basketball court. When I got home I looked up "Suzuki RC Car" and found that Tamiya makes the (M-03, M-05 and M-07 chassis, front wheel drive) car that was being raced. The research led me to the Tamiya website, RC cars are categorized by scale 1:8, 1:10, 1:12, 1:14 are the most common scales, although there are larger and there are smaller scale cars.

RC cars are specialized by use, on-road racing, off-road racing, bashing (having fun), and speed runs. Powering the cars are either electric batteries or nitro fuel.  There are car chassis differences of front wheel drive, rear wheel drive and 4WD. Within the chassis differences there is shaft drive and belt drive, distinguishing how the power is transferred from the motor (electric batteries or nitro fuel) to the wheels. RC cars also come either Ready to Run (RTR) or kit built.

There are many manufacturers of RC cars including Tamiya, Associated, Xray, Xpress, Yokomo, Kyosho, Losi, etc., brands tend to concentrate in a category, racing off road, or nitro bashing, etc.. 

Next we will cover the parts of the RC car. 

II. Resources to Get Started (Websites, Hobby Stores)

III. Parts of the RC Car

IV. Driving

V. Building

VI. Racing Associations

VII. Racing Classes

 

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