TurnipJF 10597 Posted September 11, 2021 3 minutes ago, alvinlwh said: One question about that CV joint, it came with AW grease, but most will say it is stupid to put that thick grease on the exposed drive train. Should I not grease it up then? CVs definitely need lubrication, but personally I prefer a dry lube such as that sold for bicycle chains, as this doesn't attract dust and dirt which turn into grinding paste if you use a sticky grease. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Willy iine 18842 Posted September 11, 2021 7 minutes ago, alvinlwh said: One question about that CV joint, it came with AW grease, but most will say it is stupid to put that thick grease on the exposed drive train. Should I not grease it up then? I most definitely use the AW grease on ALL my CV joints. No issue on my cars. Honestly that level of binding is quite significant. I would stop running the car and just rebuild it before potentially causing further damage. Dry lube mentioned by @TurnipJF is also a good suggestion. I use AW grease (to keep the lube in place), but it just needs to be lubed. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Original Jardasius 97 Posted September 11, 2021 5 minutes ago, alvinlwh said: Thanks. Should I stick with AW or use something else then? Personally I use a graphite grease for all exposed joints especially CV's It is farless sticky and does not gumup hardly at all 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Original Jardasius 97 Posted September 12, 2021 The back side of the plastic hex key the side with the pin cutout on it shave a smidge off the back of it with a piece of sandpaper or an emery board place it backon and try it again... if said does not work add a small diff shim over the axle then slide the pin thru the axle then add hex and tighten it and see what happens Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
El Gecko 1569 Posted September 12, 2021 1 hour ago, alvinlwh said: Finally, I found the problem, it is something to do with tightening the wheel nut, when I tighten the nut down correctly, it binds. If I do not tighten it, just left it slightly loose, it is fine. But for obvious reasons, it cannot be left loose. So any suggestions on what really is binding? I have to stop here as it is nearly 3am and I need to go to sleep now. Tomorrow I will be swapping in the stock dogbones and axles for a try but any suggestions will be very much appreciated. Ah, now we're getting somewhere! - make sure the bearings are fully seated in the axle carrier - check for a bent axle pin - it's possible that one of the wheel hexes has a deeper cutout for the axle pin than the others on the car. Try changing wheel hexes around or try a spare, and also play around with spacers until the axle spins freely in the carrier with the wheel on tight (how it's supposed to be) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djmcnz 755 Posted September 12, 2021 A sound process of elimination typically bears fruit, good work. Since the 7mmm hex didn't fix it then it's not the wheel, or wheel/hex interface, it's most likely to be the hex to hub interface or something contributing to that interface. If you have some clamp type hexes, perhaps on a different vehicle, you can do them up tight with no wheels and retest with a clear line of sight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djmcnz 755 Posted September 12, 2021 9 minutes ago, alvinlwh said: These are the clamp type hex and they actually are part of sets that are half used on other vehicles. Your last suggestion however... I could perhaps cut away a wheel to leave only the centre axle hex area and mount it? 🤔 I will try the stock items first before hacking anything up... Yes, don't cut up any wheels! I should have noticed they were clamp type, sorry, forget my idea. I'm starting to think that not screwing the chassis together properly has allowed one of the internal (1150) bearings or even the diff to dislodge causing an internal misalignment, possibly exacerbated by tightening up the wheel (which draws the UK out further)... otherwise pretty stumped. When I'm stumped I normally tear it down. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SupraChrgd82 1434 Posted September 12, 2021 Interesting….the problem was caused by faulty design of aftermarket parts. I shall add this to the mental troubleshooting checklist. Hope to see pics your completed car running hot laps soon! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
InsaneJim69 1587 Posted September 13, 2021 On the diff outputs are there rubber o rings inside the cups? If so try taking them out and use the Universal's. It should give 1-2mm or so more room to play with. If not, then they won't be compatable by the sounds of things. Good that you have found the issue though. James. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
InsaneJim69 1587 Posted September 13, 2021 Try taking the o ring out of the side that binds. A wee bit of AW grease on that universal end should limit any wear. In some of the higher end Tamiya kits don't have o rings in the drive cups but small foam inserts instead. James. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites