Help needed to tame a M-05

[alvinlwh 5895]

12 minutes ago, InsaneJim69 said:

Try taking the o ring out of the side that binds. A wee bit of AW grease on that universal end should limit any wear. In some of the higher end Tamiya kits don't have o rings in the drive cups but small foam inserts instead. 

James.

Sorry, just a thought before I tear the thing apart; the act of tightening the wheel caused it to bind. Wouldn't tightening the wheels pull the shaft outwards instead of push it inwards towards the diff cups and the rings? 

[InsaneJim69 1584]

That's a fair point. Could be the Universal binding itself with the wheel hex then at that end, as someone else suggested. In that case least if the original dog bones are working then maybe just stick with them for now? 

James.

[alvinlwh 5895]

First hot lap. Got the watch on running setting but 3m50s/km works out to be 15.7kmh. That is the same speed as before when it was binding. 🤔

Also, the kit dog bones are so noisy! I will try removing the o rings but I also got the heat sink coming in so will do a full strip again and perhaps a better grease of the gears before I try again and with a 2S, which should be here next week. 

[Juggular 4965]

Hmmm...dog bones don't usually make noises... unless it's rattling back and forth between cups (or when one side of the dog bone is at the edge of the cup. Sometimes aftermarket parts might be just a mm long or short and that could create a problem).  The distance of dog bones between two cups can be tricky to judge sometimes.  

You could take out the spring, and make the two cups line up directly. That's where the two cups are closest. So it's easier to judge where the dog bone is located between two cups.  

I often use one o-ring where it goes in too deep.  Since the wheel-side cup is lower, it tends to be that cup that gets the o-ring, and the gearbox often does not get it. But sometimes it bounces into the gearbox side too deep and make noises. So install o-rings on both, but end up making the dog bone bind in the middle of the suspension stroke.  (I even tried to cut o-ring in half, like one side of a bagel. If you want to do that, the pink sponge is easier.)

As a side note, the discussion of 'phasing' came up several years ago. Since then, I've been weary of universals.  I have a hard time telling which axles of cross of the universal corresponds with the dog bone's single axle. You can't go wrong with phasing if it's just a pair of dog bones. 

 

[alvinlwh 5895]

2 hours ago, Juggular said:

Hmmm...dog bones don't usually make noises... unless it's rattling back and forth between cups (or when one side of the dog bone is at the edge of the cup. Sometimes aftermarket parts might be just a mm long or short and that could create a problem).  The distance of dog bones between two cups can be tricky to judge sometimes.  

According to this guide, they do make a chatter. Bearing in mind, I started with universals, it could just be a sound I am not used to. 

https://www.thercracer.com/2017/07/tamiya-m05-v2-guide-mods-tuning-and.html?m=0

I am going to try reinstalling the universals when I take the thing apart (again) when I received the heat sink (which may not be required as the motor seem to run cooler now anyway with a free drive train). 

[hIghQ 149]

Personally, I would only use dog bones if there were no universals available for a particular car. For the front I go even further and prefer DCJs, when available.

[alvinlwh 5895]

2 hours ago, hIghQ said:

Personally, I would only use dog bones if there were no universals available for a particular car. For the front I go even further and prefer DCJs, when available.

In my case, the universals seem to be the one causing the problem, but it could be the o rings as IJ69 suggested, something that I will explore and report back when I next year the thing apart. 

[alvinlwh 5895]

Update, tore it apart (again) to install an alu motor mount + heatsink and installed alu rear axles. Took the opportunity to take out the drive cup O rings and reinstalled the universals. Also AW greased up the diff and cera greased up the rest of the gears as I originally lightly sprayed silicone oil on them only. Should be getting some 2S this week and will take it out for another hot lap. Bench test seem to show no binding. Fingers crossed.

[Willy iine 18806]

27 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

Update, tore it apart (again) to install an alu motor mount + heatsink and installed alu rear axles. Took the opportunity to take out the drive cup O rings and reinstalled the universals. Also AW greased up the diff and cera greased up the rest of the gears as I originally lightly sprayed silicone oil on them only. Should be getting some 2S this week and will take it out for another hot lap. Bench test seem to show no binding. Fingers crossed.

Good job.   The M05 is a very straight forward chassis so should be fixed by now, hopefully.  Any chance you would go into 4WD m-chassis?   They are so cool.

[alvinlwh 5895]

18 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

 Any chance you would go into 4WD m-chassis?

If you remembered my next kit thread, Thunder Dragon first, followed by 911 GT1, then maybe the M-06 before maybe a Jimny. 

[Willy iine 18806]

19 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

If you remembered my next kit thread, Thunder Dragon first, followed by 911 GT1, then maybe the M-06 before maybe a Jimny. 

Ahh, looks like you have your RC journey ready to go.  Good luck with the builds.