Jump to content
hIghQ

Subaru Brat - worth it?

Recommended Posts

Hi everybody!

Like many people, I caught the RC bug in my early teens, when getting my first Tamiya kit (the 1/12th scale Toyota Celica Group B Rally Car). Fast forward some ten years (and a couple other Tamiya kits), I got back into the hobby as a grown up, finding my way into on-road racing, leaving Tamiya behind for other manufacturers. Another fifteen years later, after a little more than 10 years break, I got back into RC for a third time (well, second return, third time in it over all), this time in Off-Road racing as well. So, today I'm still basically 99% a semi-serious racing (or at least race-track) guy. By now, I own two Tamiya cars again, my M-07R and my TT-02 Type SR.

But when you reach a certain age (mid-forties in my case), one starts to remember his childhood heroes... in my case the Avante (always wanted wanted that as a teenager, but couldn't afford it - today I could, but it's still more that I want to pay for such a fragile - and compared to the real modern racing cars/buggies/trucks - not even all that capable car) and... the Subaru Brat. (Yeah, I know, I took my sweet time getting there).

So now I'm wondering, if it's worth getting one. I know it's not very capable at all, compared to what I'm used to drive (i.e. Yokomo YZ-2, Xray XT-2, etc. - all in modified classes, so up to 5.5T brushless, etc.), and I don't expect it to be. But since it's not even half the price of an Avante (always talking about the re-re kits here, not interested in the real vintage stuff), I was wondering if this might be a fun vehicle for the yard, or even our track (without the large jumps).

So... how fragile is the re-re Brat? I'm a fairly capable driver, but that doesn't keep my cars from having an accident, once in a while.

Can it take square LiPos or only rounded batteries?

Can it take mild(!) brushless power (like 13.5T or weaker)?

Oh and it's actually the blue version that caught my eye (found it in stock as well) - not for the blue body, mind - I might even get rid of (=sell) that and get a standard white one to paint myself), but I like the black wheels and plastics that come with it.

So any advice? Seems like there are no real tuning parts available for it, which is a little downer for me, as I really like putting stuff like that in.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I love the Subaru Brat.  That was my first real RC car.  I've not purchased a re-re, but I'd definitely get one if you're interested in that shape.

I had the original Brat which came with a 380 and no diff; later I installed a Frog diff and 540 motor.  It was fine initially, but I drove that car all the time and  after a while the diff started skipping and axles started to slip.  That was about when I bought a 2nd hand HotShot from my best friend's dad at a super-kid friendly price.   Not sure how durable the Brat rere's are but if original, something to look out for. GL 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As for hop-ups, most of the Brat hop-ups will be vintage Frog and/or Blackfoot 3rd party jobs.  CRP made a few as did Parma.  There were others but those two were the biggest and most common.

Terry

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The way I see it, even if you are a jet pilot, you can enjoy slow Piper cub.  You wouldn't want a 500hp engine on a fabric covered plane, though.  

I forget if my vintage Blackfoot has sticky grease in the diff or not.  But it didn't have the diff problem with Sport Tuned. (I ran it on a very rough surface. Even the tires would shake loose from the wheels from time to time.)  Below is my Brat chassis which definitely has sticky diff grease.  (Below photo shows it wearing a vintage Blackfoot body. It's not mounted. Mounting points are different.)  

9I2C14g.jpg

Ceramic grease has microscopic glass beads that's designed to be slippery.  This 3Racing diff grease is designed to do the opposite; it does not slip. (USD $8.44 is like 8 times cheaper than a ball diff.)  It's like melted caramel pulling on your teeth (don't chew this stuff, kids, it's probably toxic). 

Assuming that there isn't a large play in the gearbox, this may help preventing diff gears from jumping a tooth.  But not on a strong motor. I didn't go beyond Sport Tuned. 13.5t might work, if you don't go too big on the pinion. (It has much greater torque. Normally, you would want to use bigger pinion. But I'm not sure on the stock diff, even with sticky diff grease.)  

hT2wVwS.jpg

As for batteries, 138x45x25mm 2S Lipo didn't quite fit.  The battery door shuts fine.  It even has a couple of mms to put on beads of hot glue. I didn't want the aluminum pieces rubbing on the battery case.  

KFIGcNg.jpg

But the side brackets had to be widened temporarily.  You only need about 3mm from each side. You could use longer screws and some spacers.  

FEZx5Rj.jpg

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just my opinion, but if this is your first foray into the ORV chassis, I have to recommend the Blackfoot or Monster Beetle.  Absolutely iconic bodies and it does better off road due to the larger tires.  You also get far better suspension, especially in the Monster Beetle. I despise the frog/brat front suspension design and the rear shocks are pretty bad.  Nice thing is with the purchase of one parts tree and a brat body, you could have the best of both worlds.  But that's just me and a guy who's first Tamiya car was a Blackfoot so not biased at all.... 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for your input, but I never liked any of the huge-wheeled monster trucks (neither Blackfoot, nor Beetle or Pumpkin, Lunchbox, etc.) so that is not really an option for me, I'm afraid.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, hIghQ said:

Thanks for your input, but I never liked any of the huge-wheeled monster trucks (neither Blackfoot, nor Beetle or Pumpkin, Lunchbox, etc.) so that is not really an option for me, I'm afraid.

I think he is suggesting that if you buy a BF, you will have a better version of the same chassis, ie better suspension, etc.  

You can always change the BF into a Brat by changing the wheels/tires and body.

Terry

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I understand. And I admit, having 4 oil filled shocks is tempting...

But I have no use for that body, for those tires, and I dislike the red plastics on these chassis...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I'm biased because I like all the ORV chassis, so I think it's totally worth it :ph34r:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This was put together on a budget.  The gearbox has the brace on, its running old hex drive shafts and hasn’t broken or slipped yet with a 3s battery and 3930kv motor.  I did however use a 10 tooth pinion to slow it down enough to keep it in a straight line.   Still a handful but fun if that makes sense

BB66FCC5-5CBE-46D0-B67C-37AAD9552908.jpeg

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just got my first Brat. Wanted one since the 80s. Its a blast to drive. Agreed the monster tires on these chassis's are much more forgivable but overall this thing handles pretty good. Also added the transmission brace. The stock motor and NiMh battery still goes pretty good. Fast enough to be fun. And it comes with 2 bodies!

 

 

Screenshot_20211002-205745_Lightroom.jpg

Screenshot_20211004-115255_Gallery.jpg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Juggular nice Brat tires, I'm looking a more "on-road" stance. Did I need to switch the axle to fit Brat rims ? Or is it the same ones ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, Goudar said:

Did I need to switch the axle to fit Brat rims ? Or is it the same ones ?

Do you want to fit Brat rims on other chassis?  If so, it looks like you might need brat axle (MD14).  These axles are longer in the mid 80s kits because they use C11 adapters.  I haven't tried it myself, so I wouldn't know how it would fit on other chassis.  

ADjZ8eb.jpg

9yFZfSd.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 minutes ago, Juggular said:

Do you want to fit Brat rims on other chassis?  If so, it looks like you might need brat axle (MD14).  These axles are longer in the mid 80s kits because they use C11 adapters.  I haven't tried it myself, so I wouldn't know how it would fit on other chassis.  

ADjZ8eb.jpg

9yFZfSd.jpg

Good info. I had to source a set of these to use aluminum wheels from a Blackfoot to use on a Super Blackfoot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Juggular said:

Do you want to fit Brat rims on other chassis?  If so, it looks like you might need brat axle (MD14).  These axles are longer in the mid 80s kits because they use C11 adapters.  I haven't tried it myself, so I wouldn't know how it would fit on other chassis. 

I want to fit Brat rims under my Blackfoot, just to get a lower stance for a more "rally" style.

Axles seems different. Yeks...

 

Blackfoot manual :

image.thumb.png.d61ecb71ce70185cf2bf1f2c2cb3dd54.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think Brat tires would fit.  Blackfoot uses the same kind of wheel adapter.  

The gear ratio is different. 

You might have to get a regular pinion gear.  Blackfoot uses a motor adapter, you need to remove that and use the 16t pinion.  (I think you need a 16t pinion, but not 100% sure)

7wASBBl.jpg

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Brat wheels will directly fit the BF rear axles.  For the front. The BF axles will be too long.  You’ll have to replace them with short axles.  There is a part number, but you can get the GH front knuckles and press the axles out of those.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Juggular said:

I think Brat tires would fit.  Blackfoot uses the same kind of wheel adapter.  

The gear ratio is different. 

You might have to get a regular pinion gear.  Blackfoot uses a motor adapter, you need to remove that and use the 16t pinion.  (I think you need a 16t pinion, but not 100% sure)

7wASBBl.jpg

Yep 16 tooth with no motor adapter 👍

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for answers, it may not an easy switch.

The idea is to set Brat tires then go back on original tires for a quick run sometimes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you get the short axles, and replace the long axles in the BF front knuckles with them, you can add CRP1565 extension nuts and add the BF tires to the short axle.

I use the CRP1565s on my Frog to add BF tires.  I can easily remove them to go back to Frog tires.

Terry

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Like all the above have said the gearbox is the orv chassis Achilles heel but the chassis itself is practically bullet proof the monster beetle in the photo has the mip diff and because of that it certainly doesn't look like it does in the photo anymore! But it's quite expensive but I've ran 3s brushless in it and it took all the power that was available to it ( but the body was a different story it was practically destroyed) the mud blaster I got from a car boot sale years ago for £20 and re-built it!

IMG_20160102_111459.jpg

IMG_20151220_112142.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Help! My thread got hi-jacked! :lol:

Just kidding, keep on going - my question was answered already. :)

  • Haha 1
  • Confused 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

lol... we are pretty tolerant about what goes on (as long as it's family-friendly and respectful).    

I've learned a lot of stuff from many side-tracked threads over the years.  

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...