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silvertriple

Nichimo Spirit FF - The first of a Kind

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Cool, well lots of acronyms I didn't understand:lol:, but good to hear there are many different materials and printing processes depending on the usage of a part. Cheers:)

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17 minutes ago, Kol__ said:

Cool, well lots of acronyms I didn't understand:lol:, but good to hear there are many different materials and printing processes depending on the usage of a part. Cheers:)

Well, there is a lot of acronyms involved in 3D printing, sorry for that... I'm not even sure what some of them are...

Here are some of the common 3D printing process used

FDM=Fused deposition modeling : the nozzle is going thru the path, layer after layer and will add fused filament on the path (basically my home printer)

MJF=Multi Jet Fusion : the process is based on a material powder which acts as substrat, brought in a chamber at temperature close but below the fusion point, and some liquid is deposed on the path and acted as a catalyser so  the powder locally get fused with the next powder element... The process is allowing to work without support as the powder is the support when not fused.

SLS=Selective Laser Sintering : the same as before, but the powder is agglomerated by a laser going on the path

There is other process, but you have to do your search...

About the material : there is a lot of possibilities. PLA is the most standard filament for FDM. Some of us use as well PETG which is more resistant to impact. There is also ABS, PC (polycarbonate), PA (Nylon) and variants with carbon or glass addition. But those requires printer able to printer at higher temperature than for PETG and PLA, with a more controlled environment.

PA12 is a variety of Polyamide (which is basically Nylon), and all of this does not look much different than the some of the Nylon parts you may find from some manufacturer, excepted it is obtained by  printing process...

Hope it helps to clarify :), but I really suggest you search for those acronyms on Youtube if you are interested into venturing in 3D printing world :)

 

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Ah thanks @silvertriple! I wasn't having a dig about the acronyms, just stating my lack of knowledge, which is now some what improved, thanks:)

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Started the top half chassis on Wednesday... That did not worked out like I wanted... So yesterday, I scrapped it, and restarted differently...

The masses are complex, but I feel like I'm on the right path this time...
PHykVtG.jpg

The right side is even more complex due to the motor placement and some work to do to get room for it...
GBIYPOv.jpg

Later I had this
rmzG716.jpg
RX0Cbhe.jpg

I checked and it seems it fits :)
YhXZO5K.jpg

In my original plan I had no intention to print the top half. That has changed :)

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Again some work this afternoon, as I took my afternoon off today...

I did try my best to do the driver figure body, but it won't work the way I want. I stopped bothering about this and will rely on the body I had in one of the Tamiya box for a driver which only required the head as there was a body already on the chassis... The head will be the Nichimo one...
uhy7qiu.jpg

I'm not sure at all about my measurements, as even the tool doesn't help me much for this one. I decided to build a plate with the holes as per what is in the design right now, and I'll print it for a quick check of accuracy.
9zv9MqA.jpg

Here is what I have right now :
Hi0Ky2j.jpg

I did inspect the key potential touching points and all is sorted out...
5O18x0Q.jpg
S7elMgZ.jpg

Next is the roll cage. This will require a 3D sketchs to do some pipe along a designed path. Another first for me...
ZY7xnGr.jpg

One comforting thing is that most of the key measurement are derived from existing points already in the design. I'll start once measure are validated/corrected...

Started the top half chassis on Wednesday... That did not worked out like I wanted... So yesterday, I scrapped it, and restarted differently...

The masses are complex, but I feel like I'm on the right path this time...
PHykVtG.jpg

The right side is even more complex due to the motor placement and some work to do to get room for it...
GBIYPOv.jpg

Later I had this
rmzG716.jpg
RX0Cbhe.jpg

I checked and it seems it fits :)
YhXZO5K.jpg

In my original plan I had no intention to print the top half. That has changed :)

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After my last post, I had a detail look at the roll cage, and laid out a plan...

First I set all the mounting points. Each one is a different body, but that's not really an issue, as they are going to join together once they are assembled at the end...

Then I worked out the rear side of the roll cage. It's all on the same plan, so one single sketch makes for it.
joQW9bE.jpg

Next I worked out the front part, which is on a perpendicular plan as well... Last was the joining part, for which I used an axis between the two extreme points of the parts to be joined...
And voilà...
3B4dqJS.jpg

Then a mirror component
mZhmSXP.jpg

And I added the 3 braces between the roll cage, and that's it...
DjtonZg.jpg
BT70q8K.jpg
iPC8DFM.jpg

And that was easier than what I thought it would be...
And the good news is that I do now have a CAD model for each single part I need to print to revive this Nichimo Spirit FF :-D

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I decided this morning to finish the roll cage and complete with all red plastic parts as I do consider printing them in SLS dyed red, so there is no color mismatch on the car (maybe I'm a bit perfectionist)...
Ou6aKZv.jpg

Then I decided to play around with colours in Fusion 360...
3FNpw2S.jpg

It looks so much better now :). And do you know what, I started to like this ugly car :)
The servo mounts confirm the design is right for the speed servo holes
QPJYY54.jpg

I did all the part fixing the pillow balls on the suspension arms
rPfgqjS.jpg
2706Msy.jpg

I still have a few remaining red parts :
- battery door - 2 components
- Steering joints - 1 component (x4)
- Front Sway bars joint - 1 compoenent (x2)
- Transmission axis - 1 component
- front and rear sway bars attachment - 2 components

Once all of this will be done, would remain in plastic parts to be modeled
- Front Wheel - 3 components
- Rear Wheel - 2 component plus one identical to one of the front components
- Servo Saver - 3 components
- Steering Servo horn - 1 component
- MSC components - not sure I would bother about this...

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Today, I wanted to tackle some additional parts...

I started by using a plugin to model the internal gear (with FMGear, it's really easy).
otjtqQK.jpg

Then I decided to tackle the battery door and the rear sway bar. And yes, I did put some red on an original black part, but I do like it this way. And I did the sway bar, just because it was easy to do...
QlYVQJH.jpg

Then I worked out the Servo Saver (4 components which were originally black, but it will be red :-D)
sRCCP1q.jpg

For the front sway bar links, I decided to model the sway bar first, then to build the pillow balls and then to do the link. Somehow, it's a great pleasure to estimate an angle, to put everything in place and then to measure the distance between the balls and to have it almost identical to the one you have when you look at the caliper :-)
fDLfRno.jpg

I then worked out the steering rods... Same principle : pillow balls first, then identify the center point, use an axis through the two point and build a construction plane at angle...
Unajp7t.jpg

For the last link, I got the servo from a very good friend in the design  (as well as his motor), and positioned them in the chassis.
YeXEnyt.jpg

Next, a servo horn (red because why not :lol:) and again a pillow ball (different from the others) to model before being able to get the link done...
kxw7UGn.jpg

Status as of today for red parts :
- battery door - 2 components - Done
- Steering joints - 1 component (x4) - Done
- Front Sway bars joint - 1 compoenent (x2) - Done
- Transmission axis - 1 component - Done
- front and rear sway bars attachment - 2 components - Done

Added :
- Servo saver (4 components)
- sway bar front and rear attachement (2 components)

When I started the project, there was the box of the car with the components, and I took a small box where I did put the small component which where due to be modeled within the day... At some point, I had another box in which I started to put all the parts modeled. I have now a bucket  (15 cm diameter, 10 cm height) in which there is the remaining parts to be modeled. One thing is I'm quite I can even put the metal component I've not modeled in, it would not be full... That means I'll see the end of this modeling exercise at some point...
 

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I think I lost my evenning trying to sort out the bevel gears... To finish by a suspicion that the mod is different from motor pinion and internal gear: it's far too big to be a .8 it should be 1 or 1.2 on the bevel gears. The good thing is that it is more robust, the bad thing is I spend my evenning doing something ready to go to the bin :)

(and don't ask why I'm doing this while the gears are all ok for this car :lol:)

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Today, I worked to understand the exact elements I should use to set my bevel gear in CAD... Decided to work this way, as obviously I was not making it right last time...

I decided to put the gears profiles in the gearbox to understand the exact elements about the gears...
mj2SXue.jpg

Next step was to include the cone angle from a bevel gear calculator (which is not depending upon the mod or the gear face width, but just of the number of tooth of the pinion and the gear).
A2MiIKh.jpg

I do have now the few key numbers I need to use to design my bevel gears
- Pinion teeth (14)
- Gears teeth (34)
- cone angle 22.38°

(for reference : the bevel gear calculator is here : http://otvinta.com/bevel.html)

The bevel gears are mandatory to finish the modeling of the few remaining plastic parts (especially considering I'd like to get them printed). Next step if for tomorrow.

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after some work done, some work undone, done again, undone again and done again, I finally had bevel gears having the right mod and the right dimensions...
WBXtZy5.jpg

The mod is indeed 1.
Dcox68Z.jpg

I did check quickly by positioning those they would fit in the gearbox before doing the adjustments...
hpLdt84.jpg
V5srEAm.jpg

I stooped there last night, and restart this morning with the firm intention to get the gears and the diff case done this morning...

After some confusion (360), few mistakes, user issues, I finally have both pinion and gears correct, with their proper dims and seat...
d14FHaM.jpg
fBYmy8G.jpg

And I did the differential casing after this
dYkr3ut.jpg
B6IJC2A.jpg
yQ5hFW3.jpg

Next are the bevel gears inside the differential...
js7Ie6N.jpg
14 and 10 teeth... But why :blink::blink::blink::blink::blink:???
:lol:

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Woah, this is getting more complex by the day! Amazing work SilverT!B)

I know this is a personal endeavour, but now you appear to be modeling the car in it's entirety and with regard to future use, I suppose the design is copyrighted by the original manufacturer? Or are you able to start producing these once complete?

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2 hours ago, Kol__ said:

Woah, this is getting more complex by the day! Amazing work SilverT!B)

I know this is a personal endeavour, but now you appear to be modeling the car in it's entirety and with regard to future use, I suppose the design is copyrighted by the original manufacturer? Or are you able to start producing these once complete?

First, it's a personal endeavour, clearly...

Secondly, this car as now more than 30 years without any commercial exploitation, and parts became very difficult to find. I won't produce anything (except for my own use). But I would be tempted to put some of the parts into Thingiverse : not all the parts are printable easily anyway. I believe the only way to rebuild a car would be to find a donor (although it could be in pretty bad shape)...

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A bit of work later... I have the differential bevel gears, which are in .8 mod...
wA8xD2w.jpg

And it sits perfectly in the diff case...
PrIpdvf.jpg

Last thing was to repatriate the work done in the Nichimo overal project, position them correctly and...
DAglNQ4.jpg

It's still missing bearings, spacers, and axle, but the transmission parts are in (red because why not :lol:)...
demBWn0.jpg
 

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This project found the perfect home! I've never seen one of these buggies before, but it's a cool design regardless of how well it actually worked back then. Really enjoying the progress so far with your modeling and printing capabilities.   

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After the complex things, time to complete the transmission...

First out diffs, bearings, axles and dogbones...
bjlpruW.jpg
3LOcFah.jpg

This morning I added the missing bearings and spacers in the differential and the gearbox.
7nQU7ys.jpg

That allowed me to identify a demi millimeter issue in my diff case (it was too big), and the fact that the bevel gears needed a half millimeter offset in the diff...

And yes, my dogbones are having a design issue, but it's not going to get printed so I don't really care...
zw8xCZw.jpg

I modified the battery holders to allow the usage of 138mm battery packs...

Remains to do :
- front knuckles pivot balls
- radiator
- shocks
- hub and wheels
- bodyshell and wing

At this stage, I did not include any joints neither did considered motion... But considering I'm close, that could be interesting :-)
 

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Started my afternoon with the radiator on my desk... I simplified it a bit.
0vI9WkX.jpg

For the small story, there was a radiator bag in the box of the Nichimo Spirit FF and Vantage FF...
It included 3 parts. The radiator, the plate going between the chassis and the skid plate where the bumper is seated, and the motor plate. "Radiator" this is supposed to ease the motor heat transfer... Let's have a look.
q3zPZ7r.jpg

Knowing that heat convections makes hot going up and cold going down, I'm not sure how it worked :-). I guess I will have to take an infrared thermometer to find out if it has this function as well, as my own knowledge tells me this is more weight to get the FF architecture work :lol:

As i was in mood to do more today, I decided to tackle the wheels...
5haJxkc.jpg

Front first and then rear...
YRm57EY.jpg

The original rims are in two parts. I made them in one single part, kept the holes for decoration, but adapted them to 3mm screws as the original 2.6mm are difficult to find, and adapted the wheel hubs as well... The size of the rims should be fine with Tamiya oval blocks  or supper gripper, or Kyosho Turbo Optima re-release tires (I just have to make it slighty narrow front and rear - about 4mm each).

Remains to do :
- shocks
- front knuckles pivot balls
- bodyshell
- wing
- tires

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Decided to add some red again... Red contrasts well with black and that makes it more punchy...
eKVRqmY.jpg

Next was time to add some gum on this thing... Profile over a prokected intersection of the rim and a revolve later here is what I had...
6tugx1E.jpg

Then played a bit with a tangent plane, some figures (too much to my taste), some extrusions, a profile to recut what was too much addition and tada, I had a front tire...
sCipilZ.jpg

And the next one was much more easy... 
mxVlX1p.jpg

I'll apply the same principle for the rear ones, but tomorrow...

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As planned, I applied the same method for the rear tyres...

DpC53Ic.jpg
6OOw9QX.jpg
BoXrQZd.jpg

There is still a lot of things missing:
- few pivot balls
- shocks
- Air scoop, bodyshell, roof and wing

And I will need to have a look at the rigid groups, pivots and motion as the front suspension is not ins a normal attitude. I need to correct this (the only question I ask myself is why am I doing all of this? :lol: )

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I'm not sure where I do things wrong... But it's weird...
uoZWPbz.png

Later on, still not perfect but slightly better
nASBtQ2.jpg

i'm not really sure how to deal with this. I should have probably used joints much earlier in the process...

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After few days of confusion (360), with a lot of model explosions, and a few crashes of the application...
oZZzTpX.jpg

I'm very happy to say I finally succeed to have some progress today :-)

First I got one shock. 
K3AFW0u.jpg

The design is quite similar between the rear and front, everything is the same between the front and rear except the diameter. Copy, paste new, modify sktechs, done. All the shocks done, including the joints, in a separate file and linked...

Next was to get everything linked together.... Multiple crashes, a corrupted save, some hiccups in the middle, some explosions again and I now have my car with working suspensions, shocks, and steering working...
bY6Rg1J.jpg
5KsCZjT.jpg
TajnCWK.jpg
yqYcCnm.jpg

That was difficult, but I got it. I note for next time that joints used earlier in the process would have definitely helped...

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Took the driver set stls from mininguy71 on thingiverse and reworked it to add a driver to my Nichimo. It took a bit of time to understand how to integrate the Mesh in, but I finally have a driver in my car...
XbXYzDQ.jpg
6zNNwaX.jpg
q0nkeEd.jpg

Need to work out the airscoop, bodyshell, roof and wing next, and then only things missing will be screws and nuts...

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Since I had the driver in, I decided to tackle roof and wing in the afternoon.
I decided to do the roof with Metal Sheet, as I prefer the one from the Exceed than the one from the Spirit FF...
ndS9FSf.jpg

Then I did the wing with too much extrusion, bodies and combining them to finish by add fillets 
LbRmnzB.jpg

I did play crop and resize to 80% on vertical to see if it can look like the box art...
rvUvvrQ.jpg

I still have to get the bodyshell in...

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Today is an important day for this project...

The 3D printed MJF Nylon PA12 chassis arrived... I was quite impatient to see it arriving, and be able to do some fitting test
KKDK3rK.jpg
iSTFXed.jpg

I also took the gearbox in, and it fits perfectly... As said, it is an important step for the project.

Have to decide if I print all plastic parts or just the one that I need to replace, but I tend to think the first option is better, as then it will be really my own car :)

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