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alvinlwh

Thunder Dragon 2021

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Just received today! I am happy as it only took 3 weeks from preorder to delivery, wife was not so happy.

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And here are the bits that will go into the kit.

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For once, I have (I hope) all the bits required for the build so there shouldn't be and hold ups waiting for parts to arrive.And because of that, I can have the cost of this build worked out now.

Kit £147.60
Bearings £12.95
17T Pinion £6.99
ESC £15.00
Servo £4.75
Servo saver £4.00
RX £25.00

ESC is some el'cheap'o Amazon "special", servo is part of a budget 4 pack and RX is a Carson Reflex Wheel Pro 3 5CH w/BEC (this may change).

Missing from the list at this time is the 53791 universals and those are expensive as 2 packs are required. They will be added at a later date as they are easy enough to install, I am not too worried.

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Congrats on the purchase!

Truth be told, universals are usually only needed for the front, since it's expected to drive, bounce and steer, turning the dogbones in strange directions sometimes that makes them likely to pop out. That would reduce the amount of funds needed by 50% for the time being.

Good luck with the build.

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18 minutes ago, DeadMeat666 said:

Truth be told, universals are usually only needed for the front, since it's expected to drive, bounce and steer, turning the dogbones in strange directions sometimes that makes them likely to pop out. That would reduce the amount of funds needed by 50% for the time being.

Thanks for the info, I remember seeing somewhere that only a pair is required and thanks for telling me why. They still have to wait for my next Japan order as they missed the most recent one. 

Speaking of which, do you know if the 1150 bearing is required in step 3? It seems like the gear don't actually rotate and the bearing is just supporting it on BA18. I got a feeling that the 1150 isn't needed as a bearing at all. 

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2 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

Speaking of which, do you know if the 1150 bearing is required in step 3? It seems like the gear don't actually rotate and the bearing is just supporting it on BA18. I got a feeling that the 1150 isn't needed as a bearing at all. 

I don't get it either. It looks like you're right; the bearing can't spin since the countergear shaft has a keyed slot, so they'd always rotate together. I put a bearing there anyway, but I do recall wondering what the point of it would be. Big T are committed enough to even give you a bearing for that spot on the Terra Scorcher! But they skimped out on giving you the 2 thrust bearings for the bevel gears LOL

SMH....

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12 minutes ago, DeadMeat666 said:

I don't get it either. It looks like you're right; the bearing can't spin since the countergear shaft has a keyed slot, so they'd always rotate together. I put a bearing there anyway, but I do recall wondering what the point of it would be. Big T are committed enough to even give you a bearing for that spot on the Terra Scorcher! But they skimped out on giving you the 2 thrust bearings for the bevel gears LOL

SMH....

I actually figured it out, counting the bearings in the instructions will come up with a total of 21. But officially, in the same manual, hopups only 20. Looking through the instructions closely shows that this is the one that do not actually need a bearing, so 20. I used a brass bushing on it and saved the 1150 for another day. 

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Step 2 - Differential gears

Set of 2, I greased them up differently front and back. Moly grease in the front and AW in the back.

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And screwed up.

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Step 3 - Attaching counter gear

The 1150 shown on the instructions does not do anything as the counter gear is keyed to shaft, so it turns with the shaft instead of on the shaft, a bearing is not actually needed here.

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So I used a 1150 sized metal bushing I have in the spares box instead and kept the 1150 for another day. 4 other bearings are inserted into the gearbox case as they actually do something.

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Gears in place and ready for greasing up and shutting up.

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Nice @alvinlwhB)

Looks like a great kit to build! Shall await the next update!

What's the universal, something to do with the drive train? What upgrade are you considering in that area?

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1 hour ago, Kol__ said:

Nice @alvinlwhB)

Looks like a great kit to build! Shall await the next update!

What's the universal, something to do with the drive train? What upgrade are you considering in that area?

They prevent the dogbones from falling out in a bad crash and reduce transmission lost and noise. They will be upgraded eventually, just have to wait till my next order from PJ. Cost for them (and most hop ups) in the UK are over twice as expensive. Not that I do not support local, just that at twice the cost, it is hard to swallow. So what I tend to do is buy the kit locally and hop ups from Japan, if possible. They can wait as they are at an easily accessible location, unlike, say, inside the gearbox. If you had seen one of my earlier post, I have a phobia of screw holes stripping and always try to get the internal upgrades done from the get go. 

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Going to finish screw bag A tonight so onwards.

Step 4 - Rear gearbox

A splash of color on the all black piece. Not sure how well they will stand up to bashing. At least it will look good for the completion photos.

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Step 5 - Propeller joints

Tip for builders, BA13 Thrust washer is in the bushing bag not in screw bag A. Took me 10 minutes to find it.

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Step 6 - Attaching propeller joint (rear)

Counter gear and propeller installed.

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And cover on.

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Step 7 - Attaching propeller joint (front)

Propeller inserted in case.

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And screwed together.

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Step 8 - Attaching differential gear (front)

Step 9 - Front gear box

Somehow I seem to have lost the photos for these, but they are nothing special, just as per instructions.

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Step 10 - Attaching pinion gear

This is exciting for me, first time deployment of a shinny TZ motor on a car. No easy cap or set pinion at the same length as the drive shaft here, 14.48mm, should be close enough for the 14.5mm called for. That is a 17T steel pinion. If heat becomes a problem, I will swap it for a 13T or 14T one.

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Step 11 - Attaching motor

Motor attached to rear gearbox, connected up and tested to make sure everything turn correctly.

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It is not tightly fitted to the gearbox yet as I am trying to see if this heatsink will fit. However that's the end of screw bag A and next steps will have to wait. Bedtime first.

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Seem to just fit but will need other parts to be sure.

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Doubtful that the HS will fit since the motor tucks into the chassis.  I went through several before I found one I liked (and I'm still not a fan of it)...

Terry

 

 

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28 minutes ago, Frog Jumper said:

Doubtful that the HS will fit since the motor tucks into the chassis. 

That's why my motor is not tightly screwed and treadlocked into the gearbox yet. Which ones will fit may I ask? 

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You have about 20mm of motor exposed when installed.

I’ll snap some pix shortly when I get home…

Terry

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Here you can see how the motor tucks into the chassis.

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From the side. You can see the motor is close to the sway bar too 

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Top view

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Here is the first HS I tried. Fits very well but little contact area with motor.

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Here is what I am using now.  More contact with motor and it came with a fan and mount.

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The big one with built in fan was too big…

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Hope this helps!

Terry

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25 minutes ago, Frog Jumper said:

Hope this helps!

Terry

It helps a lot! Thanks! 

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Pushing on as I really want to know if the heatsink will work. On to screw bag B now.

Step 12 - Rear axles

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Step 14 - Attaching rear axles

A chance to try out my new e-clip tool.

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Done, the tool definitely made the installation of the e-clips easier.

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