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blu-tak

Determining OFFSET Touring/Rally car wheels

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How do I know the offset of wheels, by just looking at them online.

I'm looking for wheels that increase the width of 1/10th tourer.

I think that means a deep dish, but low offset?

 

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This is a question I have asked myself in the past. You might get a bit more answers if you provide some details about what you are trying to achieve, i.e. how much wider do you need to go, wich body and which chassis etc.

For example wider/thicker wheel hex's might suffice to widen your stance.

Regarding Tamiya TC wheels, I can offer a very small bit of help with width and offset as follows (you kind of have to discuss width as well... As it will affect how wide your stance ends up); I'm assuming you're not intending to race and the car is not a M chassis:

- 24mm width for racing, probably not what you are looking for (just guessing)

- 26mm width: you have a lot of choice in 26mm that are I believe almost always 2mm offset with Tamiya for one piece models (see below for 2-piece).

- Then there are "wide" wheels at 32mm. These are almost limited in availability nowadays to the 2-piece wheels which can be reconfigured in 2mm or 10mm offset, quite a smart design. Note that there's always a matching 26mm 2-piece model available, with again adjustable offset this time 2mm or 4mm. This way you can make a matching narrow/wide front/rear set.

One more note regarding 32mm wheels: tires are getting very difficult to come by, save for the terrible "racing slick". Ok for running in circles in a parking lot but not much else.

Hope this helps.

 

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10 hours ago, blu-tak said:

How do I know the offset of wheels, by just looking at them online.

I'm looking for wheels that increase the width of 1/10th tourer.

I think that means a deep dish, but low offset?

 

Normally an offset wheel in a touring size will state the offset in the description. If no offset is stated, you would expect them to be zero offset.

Obviously there are exceptions especially at the cheaper end of the market.

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6 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

This is a question I have asked myself in the past. You might get a bit more answers if you provide some details about what you are trying to achieve, i.e. how much wider do you need to go, wich body and which chassis etc.

 

I'm hoping to make a M03/M05 as wide as possible! but with 1/10th full size touring wheels running rally blocks.

Although I am open to buggy wheels that have a similar rolling radius to rally blocks. Maybe a 1/14th stadium truck wheels may in reality be similar rolling radius, but more cushion...

M Chassis Rally / Buggy / Wide Arm (M03 M05 Tl01) ?M07? - Build Tips and Techniques - Tamiyaclub.com

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It is quite common in the drifting scene to use massive offset rims that make the cars a lot wider. Those are very deep dishes. Tamiya only does +2offset, unless you take 2-piece wheels - those have 2 offset options available, no matter if 26mm (+2/+4) or 30mm (+2/+10) tire width, https://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?firma=Tamiya&best=50549

depending on which side you put the inner piece on. For more offset, especially with 26mm, use aftermarket drift rims. Example for 26mm (offset+8) https://tamico.de/MST-Gold-RID-Felgen-8-Offset-4-Stk-26mm

 

Other options are wider hexes or spacers between hex and rim. Both options are limited by the axle width. (with spacers also by the overlap of hex and rim) At one point, you need wider axles to be able to put the locknut on. Wider axles sometimes have spacers between hub carrier and hex as well. The question is then if these axles exist for your chassis. That is why going with larger offset wheels is easier. 

IMG_20210930_140656.jpg

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4 hours ago, blu-tak said:

I'm hoping to make a M03/M05 as wide as possible! but with 1/10th full size touring wheels running rally blocks.

 

I want to do the same too but most sites do not list the sizes of their wheels at all, nevermind offset. I once nearly bought some 2.8 wheels + tyres without understanding what they are.

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2 hours ago, Frog Jumper said:

Can you use axle extensions?

61avVs65A5L._AC_SL1500_.thumb.jpg.4791d2c6edfe72e380edcb61bdf53598.jpg

 

Do you mean these things? I used them at one time but the wheel exploded as I have to make the hole bigger to fit the bigger collar and that weaken the wheel too much.

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48 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

 

Do you mean these things? I used them at one time but the wheel exploded as I have to make the hole bigger to fit the bigger collar and that weaken the wheel too much.

The long collar nut should be the same diameter as your axle, and therefore should fit the wheel...  That said, it doesn't always happen like that...

I use these a lot to get big fat 2.2 tires to clear a body, etc.  

Tamiya #53913 is a set designed for the Frog, to allow for the use of more modern 12mm hex wheels.  The nut is the same diameter as the Frog axle...

Terry

 

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6 minutes ago, Frog Jumper said:

The long collar nut should be the same diameter as your axle, and therefore should fit the wheel...  That said, it doesn't always happen like that...

I use these a lot to get big fat 2.2 tires to clear a body, etc.  

Tamiya #53913 is a set designed for the Frog, to allow for the use of more modern 12mm hex wheels.  The nut is the same diameter as the Frog axle...

The inside of the long collar nut is the same dia as the axle (4mm?) so the outside which slips over the axle and whole the wheel on is more than that. The hole in the wheel is very close to the dia of the original axle, so will need opening up. Don't think it is possible to have an ID and OD of the same.

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2 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

The inside of the long collar nut is the same dia as the axle (4mm?) so the outside which slips over the axle and whole the wheel on is more than that. The hole in the wheel is very close to the dia of the original axle, so will need opening up. Don't think it is possible to have an ID and OD of the same.

You have the right idea, but the threaded part on the axle should be slightly less that axle diameter (ie, the cut away material to form the threads), ie the OD of the nut should be the same as the OD of the axle.

I'll snap some pix of mine when I get home.

Terry

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59 minutes ago, Frog Jumper said:

You have the right idea, but the threaded part on the axle should be slightly less that axle diameter (ie, the cut away material to form the threads), ie the OD of the nut should be the same as the OD of the axle.

I probably had binned mine, or threw them into a corner where the sun don't shine.  When I tried to use them, their dia is more than the wheel hole for sure, I will not be drilling a wheel for no reason otherwise. 

You mentioned 2.2 wheels, Frog, etc... Could it be those wheels have a bigger hole than touring wheels? 

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Sure axles and wheel holes will vary.  I mostly use HPI super stars for my 2.2s and they have adapters for various manufacturers. But I also have a set of Blackfoot Extreme wheels that are too small in diameter at the hole.  You would think Tamiya would make them all the same size…

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5 hours ago, Frog Jumper said:

Can you use axle extensions?

I suppose I could, I hadn't thought about them.

Any recommendations on Tamiya or similar quality that would work with a regular chassis e.g M03 or TL01?

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I don’t have any recommendations. But in my own experience, I’ve had to buy a few different sets (different lengths) until I got what I wanted…

Are you in the US???  I’ll send you a free pair to test out if you are.  I’m sure I can find an extra set…

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If you look at the hpi wheels, they say the offset in the description. Not all wheels are deep dish, just the centre is wider. These are 31mm wide and 15mm offset.

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hpi-fifteen52-tarmac-r43-wheel-48x31mm-15mm-os-2pcs--425443

The gold ones are 5mm offset, the 6 spoke ones are 8mm offset and the middle ones are 11mm offset. Just for reference, the gold 5mm ones fit perfectly with a 190mm body. The skyline is 198mm, and the 11mm offset wheels fitted nicely. The 6 spoke ones fit nice on a ta01 with 190mm escort cosworth body.

20200712_085717.thumb.jpg.5a9bb92891cd7deeba70629425f5d7d9.jpg20201019_075254.thumb.jpg.52747164076330df6fec4716330ffa08.jpg20201220_105242.thumb.jpg.a40ca26f9187e0b09a70148537fa9496.jpg

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2 hours ago, Frog Jumper said:

I don’t have any recommendations. But in my own experience, I’ve had to buy a few different sets (different lengths) until I got what I wanted…

Are you in the US???  I’ll send you a free pair to test out if you are.  I’m sure I can find an extra set…

I'm in the UK

I'm open to paying postage for a set though?

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3 minutes ago, blu-tak said:

I'm in the UK

I'm open to paying postage for a set though?

They can be had from Amazon for just a few quid, perhaps less than airmail from the US.

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20 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

They can be had from Amazon for just a few quid, perhaps less than airmail from the US.

^^^this

And I don't even know what a "quid" is!

 

 

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3 hours ago, Frog Jumper said:

Sure axles and wheel holes will vary.  I mostly use HPI super stars for my 2.2s and they have adapters for various manufacturers. But I also have a set of Blackfoot Extreme wheels that are too small in diameter at the hole.  You would think Tamiya would make them all the same size…

I mentioned 2.2 or buggy wheels as OP was asking about touring car. So anyway, here is the setup I had used at one point. That is a 12mm extender BTW.

spacer.png

So I am sure you know how these things works, but for the benefit of anyone who don't, the blue hex slips over the drive pin like your normal wheel hex, except those are 5 - 6mm whereas this is 12mm, so it pushes the wheel about 6mm further out than normal. The silver nut secure the wheel to the axle, through the wheel and over the axle like with the outer hex acting a wheel nut.

Now, the OD of the nut measures 4.92mm where as the hole in that wheel (which came off my TT-01) measures 4.28mm, meaning I need to open up the hole to 5mm to fit the nut in. It weaken the wheel so much that I had one wheel exploding. 

EDIT: ID is appx 3.56mm, but due to threads, cannot be be taken to be a precise measurement.

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