Super ally 412 Posted October 4, 2021 I was thinking about getting the monster beetle for my next build but am worried about the diff problems i read about in the gearbox.I have read that i would have to buy a mip ball diff at £60 so it will run without any problem with the gearbox.I would only be using the stock motor with it and was wondering if that would be ok.I dont want to buy the kit and then have to pay £60 on top just to make sure it runs ok.Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frog Jumper 3661 Posted October 4, 2021 Its a 3D printed set of plates that solves the problem for the price of a 12-pack... Terry 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Super ally 412 Posted October 4, 2021 13 minutes ago, Frog Jumper said: Its a 3D printed set of plates that solves the problem for the price of a 12-pack... Terry Thanks for your reply,where can i buy these at. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Problemchild 2149 Posted October 4, 2021 2 minutes ago, Super ally said: Thanks for your reply,where can i buy these at. Me and @Xeostar designed, tested and printed (well he did most of the work tbh haha) Im running my beetle with a 3s brushless set up defo have a read of the thread and then drop @Xeostar a pm well worth it JJ 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Super ally 412 Posted October 4, 2021 37 minutes ago, Problemchild said: Me and @Xeostar designed, tested and printed (well he did most of the work tbh haha) Im running my beetle with a 3s brushless set up defo have a read of the thread and then drop @Xeostar a pm well worth it JJ Thanks for your help. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KEV THE REV 2319 Posted October 4, 2021 You won't be disappointed - these are great items and a must have for any ORV chassis :) 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nikko85 3454 Posted October 4, 2021 These do look cool! Gearbox issues put me off getting a Blackfoot, but now I'm much more tempted! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frog Jumper 3661 Posted October 4, 2021 IMO, everyone should experience the head-ache we love so much… 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rider400 353 Posted October 4, 2021 Ive got 4 of these, 3 installed. This should be the first mod for any ORV. Yeah even before bearings! Running Lipo 2s with these and no diff issues at all. All stock diffs too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
A-Baum 352 Posted October 5, 2021 BTW the MIP ball diff is totally worth it anyway. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
87lc2 2666 Posted October 6, 2021 The gearbox modification by @Xeostar is awesome and I have two, one on my BF 2016 and one on my MB 2015. I built the Blackfoot first and have run it a ton and zero issues, love it. I built the MB a few weeks back and there is a rough spot in the gearbox and I don't know why. Have had it apart a few times, shortened the rear shocks, but still the same. Can't figure it out and it's bugging me. When it's on the ground and running all seems fine, but when the back wheels are in the air they wobble pretty violently. Have not given it a good run yet, but at this point I'm just going to run it and see what happens, everything is assembled properly and not much I can do. What's really odd is the Blackfoot is 100% fine, no issues and obviously I built them the same exact way just a few months apart. Both with kit stock motor/esc as well. Either way, I would not shy away from these models at all, I'd buy them both again in a heartbeat. So much fun to run and with stock power you most likely wont have any issues. Especially with the gearbox braces, I do feel that they are a must on these. As I said, have been running my Blackfoot hard on stock power for a while now and its perfect, no clicking, grinding, shaft popping out, etc. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Problemchild 2149 Posted October 9, 2021 @87lc2 what you are describing is when the suspension travel is at its max, the rear driveshafts bind I moved from the universal joints to the dog bones and that helped a bit but the best way is to limit the suspension travel by about 2mm JJ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
87lc2 2666 Posted October 9, 2021 7 hours ago, Problemchild said: @87lc2 what you are describing is when the suspension travel is at its max, the rear driveshafts bind I moved from the universal joints to the dog bones and that helped a bit but the best way is to limit the suspension travel by about 2mm JJ Yea, that's what I figured and shortened the rear shocks by 3-4mm using internal spacers, no change. Just thought it was odd because the Blackfoot was built 100% to the manual and no issue at all. I need to run the bug and see what it does. Since the suspension will be compressed a bit when running it probably won't be an issue, just "bugs" me 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
