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87lc2

Rebuilding Old Jugg 2 - Leaf Spring Question

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I bought a Jugg 2 years back that was in pretty bad shape; pieces missing, broken, etc.  I did a quick resto on it back then with rebuilt gearboxes, transmission, some paint and a new body but it's never been quite right.  The truck sags to one side and not sure why.  It's been on my list to restore properly for years now, and on a whim I starting tearing down the truck yesterday.  Even with the shocks off and the truck just resting on the leaf springs it sags to the left.  All shackles and mounts are installed properly and the springs themselves look OK, no weird bends or anything.  Going to take the springs off completely tonight for a better look to see if anything's off. 

Question is - If I need replacement springs (I can't think of what else it could possibly be - has to be the springs), do any other vehicles or aftermarket leafs out there fit the Jugg?  Did a quick PN search on the originals and couldn't find anything, but wondering if anyone has used a repalcement with any success.  Wondering if any of the RC4WD springs will work?  Truck will be restored as a light runner so want it to work well (as well as an old Jugg can), but mostly just want to get rid of the sag, it looks terrible. Any help appreciated. 

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RC4WD used to sell replacement leaf springs for the Juggernaut. They also advertised them as "lift springs" for the original Tamiya Bruiser/Mountaineer.

I have a set of these leaf springs on a 58048 Tamiya Bruiser and they fit fine.

 

So, I would "think" Tamiya Bruiser/Mountaineer leaf springs would fit on a Juggernaut, it would just sit a bit lower??

They might be too soft for the Juggernaut, BUT you could add some leaves to the packs to get them stiffer. Maybe add an extra leaf or two on the rear passenger to cut down on the torque twist??

 

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Fantastic info, thanks a lot!  I didn't know they were the same.  I may have some spare Bruiser springs hanging around, but if not I believe they are still available?  Even if they're a bit soft I'll just run a harder spring on my aluminum internal shocks I'm planning on using for the truck. 

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I got a new original set from rcjaz.co.uk about 12 months ago, they may still have some if they are listed. Took an age to come home but they were the only place I could find them new. 

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I believe the F350 High lift springs have the same profile. The leafs are held together with a 2mm bolt rather than a rivet, so you might have to make some mods to fit them, but they are at least still available. And you can adjust the stiffness of the springs by adding / removing links Here's some info I posted for another member comparing hi lift / Jugg / king hauler springs, the rear spring in the photo below is a slightly used Hi-Lift spring, the middle one a Jugg2, and the front a king hauler spring.

Comparison between all three springs:
Globe-V-Jugg-V-Hi-Lift.jpg

Measurements from springs.

Spring-Drawings.jpg

 

I did a bit of a rebuild on my Jugg recently, and found that some of the springs had sagged with age, and were a slightly different shape to some new ones (I have 2 unused springs left). 

Here's my rebuild thread.

Madinventor Juggernaut 2 rebuild - Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers - Tamiyaclub.com

 

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More good info, thank you!  So...looks like the hi-lift springs are comparable to the Jugg, are the hi-lift springs the same as the Bruiser, which in turn would be the same as the RC4WD TF2?  If so then this will be easy, there are Bruiser/TF2 springs everywhere pretty cheap. 

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Read through your build thread @MadInventor and wow, nice work!  I won't be getting that involved in mine (mostly because I don't posses the skills you do), but definitely want the truck to sit straight side-to-side :)  

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Got the old Jugg torn the rest of the way down tonight.  Seems there are two issues contributing to the sag.  First, the springs were a bit out of shape when compared to each other, but after some gentle bending they're now all the same and should be fine.  Second, the top spring mounts (E1 parts) are not only overtightened when installed by the original assembler, but they are showing some cracks and in generally bad shape.  Didn't have high hopes of finding new E Parts trees and after a search came up with absolutely nothing.  I did come across aluminum replacements on Ebay and ordered them, should be here within a week.  I figure with the straightened springs and solid E1 parts ride height should be good.  Glad someone is making these, I'd be in a tough spot if they weren't.  Not cheap, but really had no choice. 

I did find a spare set of Bruiser springs and compared with the Jugg.  They would technically work, but the Jugg springs are a bit taller and the truck would probably sag a good bit with Bruiser springs.  Looks like Hi-Lift springs would work, but don't have any of those around.  I think the stockers will be fine, most of the issues seem to be from overtightened and partially broken E1 parts. 

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, 87lc2 said:

Got the old Jugg torn the rest of the way down tonight.  Seems there are two issues contributing to the sag.  First, the springs were a bit out of shape when compared to each other, but after some gentle bending they're now all the same and should be fine.  Second, the top spring mounts (E1 parts) are not only overtightened when installed by the original assembler, but they are showing some cracks and in generally bad shape.  Didn't have high hopes of finding new E Parts trees and after a search came up with absolutely nothing.  I did come across aluminum replacements on Ebay and ordered them, should be here within a week.  I figure with the straightened springs and solid E1 parts ride height should be good.  Glad someone is making these, I'd be in a tough spot if they weren't.  Not cheap, but really had no choice. 

I did find a spare set of Bruiser springs and compared with the Jugg.  They would technically work, but the Jugg springs are a bit taller and the truck would probably sag a good bit with Bruiser springs.  Looks like Hi-Lift springs would work, but don't have any of those around.  I think the stockers will be fine, most of the issues seem to be from overtightened and partially broken E1 parts. 

 

 

 

 

Let me know if you come across any more bits you need. I have unwanted parts from my Jugg rebuild now I have partial 4 links on it. I also have some new / unused spares. I may be able to help you out if you find other extinct parts.

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Thanks a lot @MadInventor, really appreciate it.  For the most part everything else looks OK, but will certainly let you know.  Not using the stock links or shocks so no worries there.  I am keeping the stock steering setup and going to make new HD links to replace the wimpy stock ones.  The servo savers look to be in OK shape, but being so old wouldn't surprise me if they didnt last long.  I always thought they were the same as Clod savers, but they look different.  I imagine they are hard pieces to find as well. 

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I’ve not seen servo savers for sale anywhere in the 18 months I’ve been looking. Almost at the point of giving up and starting to change direction on my build. I’m down to 1 servo saver and all upper chassis plastics, never gonna get the tyres for sane money or the body for that matter. F350 body and I’ll shave some clod tires for it. 
 

Clod savers do fit I think, should work fair enough. I’m never gonna run my servo saver. It’ll go back on for shelf duty. 

Edited by ad456

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3 minutes ago, ad456 said:

I’ve not seen servo savers for sale anywhere in the 18 months I’ve been looking. Almost at the point of giving up and starting to change direction on my build. I’m down to 1 servo saver and all upper chassis plastics, never gonna get the tyres for sane money or the body for that matter. F350 body and I’ll shave some clod tires for it. 
 

Clod savers do fit I think, should work fair enough. I’m never gonna run my servo saver. It’ll go back on for shelf duty. 

Yea, the tires care crazy money.  I sold mine a while back since I'm not really a fan of the originals.  With this truck I have no concerns for originality considering the shape I received it in, just want it to be a decent occasional runner.  Good to know that Clod savers will work.  I guess I can alsways make mounts for the axles, but wanted to jsut keep stock steering for this since it most likely won't see any competition.  

Here's what she looked like after I got it running a few years back, going in a new direction this time (new body, wheels, tires, and electronics).

A Juggernaut re-release would be awesome, I'd buy one in a second, but not holding my breath on that one...

 

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That’s really smart.

I was gonna go either Tamiya (High Lift body and Clod tires) or maybe rc4wd (with a blazer and B&H tires). Mine has mammoth parts and jugg bits. I don’t think even the chassis is tamiya as it’s the same but chrome plated. 

I have another one that’s 4 linked on a steel rail chassis and a 1/8 Nikko F150 Supercrew hardbody wearing Mud Slingers. 
 

Been building sporadically for 2 years and never had the chance to get em running yet but it’s getting closer. 

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That's funny, this Jugg came to me with the 1/8 scale Nikko body on it, think I sold it a while back.  Really nice body but it was in bad shape. Either of those options would look great.  That RC4WD Blazer body is really nice, but the Tamiya F-350 is fantastic as well.   So many choices...

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I have a jugg body carcass (no chrome parts) some other bits like the steering hop up set and some stock shocks, also 4 sets of Juggernaut wheels and tyres all brand new..  what's 'sane' money? 

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6 hours ago, berman said:

I have a jugg body carcass (no chrome parts) some other bits like the steering hop up set and some stock shocks, also 4 sets of Juggernaut wheels and tyres all brand new..  what's 'sane' money? 

Best way to judge value is to look at Ebay sold listings.  I've seen most of that either on Ebay at the moment or sold over the past few months.  Definitley worth good money, especially the hop-ups and wheel/tire sets.  The Jugg wheels/tires go for really good money, I sold my well worn set a couple years back and got over $100 on Ebay.  Never understood the appeal of the stock tires, but that's just me.  I prefer a more realistic looking monster truck tire. 

Question for you guys that know more about this chassis that I do - I was all set to replace my axle housings and trans housing with new spares I found in my TXT/Jugg parts box when I realized they were different.  The truck I"m rebuilding has 2000 stamped on the housings and these have no stamp.  Are these Jugg 1 parts?  Unfortunately they're useless to me and wanted to identify them so I can pass them on to someone that can use them (althought I doubt anyone would want them if they are indeed Jugg 1 parts).  

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@87lc2 2000 is the jugg 2, jugg 1 has no markings. I’d bet someone would have them off ya as they aren’t common I don’t think. Thankfully the ones you need are though. 
 

@berman I would like to go for that but I think postage would cripple it for me and I’ve jus had new windows and doors in the house so the RC fund is being drastically lowered for the next few months(not my choice by any stretch). 
 

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On 10/14/2021 at 3:06 AM, 87lc2 said:

Best way to judge value is to look at Ebay sold listings.  I've seen most of that either on Ebay at the moment or sold over the past few months.  Definitley worth good money, especially the hop-ups and wheel/tire sets.  The Jugg wheels/tires go for really good money, I sold my well worn set a couple years back and got over $100 on Ebay.  Never understood the appeal of the stock tires, but that's just me.  I prefer a more realistic looking monster truck tire. 

Thanks. I can't hold onto them forever and I sold my juggernaut a few years ago now. Yes the were modelled off a real tyre but are an acquired taste. Then there is the polar opposite, with the likes of the over square Proline Destroyer and RC4WD Rumbles.

On 10/14/2021 at 6:44 AM, ad456 said:

@berman I would like to go for that but I think postage would cripple it for me and I’ve jus had new windows and doors in the house so the RC fund is being drastically lowered for the next few months(not my choice by any stretch). 
 

Fair enough. I sold a set for $100 USD a few years ago and shipped them to the UK, cannot remember the price to ship but it wasn't too bad, not sure if it would have changed with the pandemic.

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Aluminum E1 parts arrived on Saturday so was able to paint them and get the chassis to roller status by last night.  Good news, truck sits nice and straight now so my original leafs are still good.  Still need to make a battery/electronics trays as well as figure out body mounts.  Forgot how stiff the suspension was on this truck.  Only running very light internal springs in one shock per corner, enlarged the air holes in wheels and not gonig to run foams.  Suspension is still stiff, but works well and looking forward to running it.  

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Finally got around to painting the body for the Jugg.  It's a JConcepts 1989 Ford done up as the final Bigfoot leaf spring race truck, Bigfoot 4.  Believe it or not, I'm going to race this in the retro class over the winter.  I think it might actually compete well with Clods. Despite being heavier, with some tuning the suspension works way better than a stock Outlaw class Clod truck in my opinion.  It has 2 aluminum internal spring shocks at each corner, but only the inside spring actually has a spring in it, the outside shocks are just filled with oil.  I drilled massive air holes in the wheels and remove the foam from the tires so they can do most of the damping.  I've had it out on a couple test runs now and I am quite happy with how it performs, jumps well and lands really soft with the light damping and foam-less tire setup.  Actually performs pretty similar to the final Stage 2 monster trucks when they switched to long travel springs and nitro shocks.  I absolutely love driving it. 

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If anyone has a Jugg for sale let me know , have some more build ideas :) 

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