MF01x - already rusted

[Nikko85 3454]

I took out my MF01x through some wet grass, and forgot to clean up - although it was only Tuesday when I took it for a spin, some of the screws are showing a fair bit of rust. I've had the car a week of so. 

I am a very uneven perfectionist. I don't mind scrapes, dings and flaked paint, but rust and pitted metal - that's a big no. It's odd as my cheaper cars (Nikkos etc.) have screws that are 20 years old with no rust, and these plated Tamiya screws are already looking more worn with red rust in the centre of the screw (I assume where my screw driver has taken off some of the plating?)

So, is there a good source of stainless steel self tapping screws people use that can swap with Tamiya? I'm not so interested in RC specific ones that cost an arm and a leg, but a source of stainless screws people have found that fit Tamiya model would be great.

Something like this?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360401203726

Also does anyone know where to get stainless steel king pin screws too, or some that might work please? The current ones are looking rather poor.

I'll get a proper JIS screwdriver (I had a flat headed screwdriver that was the perfect fit for every RC car I've had before, but perhaps the screw driver hurt the Tamiya screws) but I quite like the idea of not having to dry out every screw after racing just in case! 

Thanks in advance, it's still a great car, but the rust is making me a little bummed out after all the effort put in so far.

[hIghQ 149]

Just remember, stainless steel is usually not as strong as "normal" steel RC (hex) screws. So, depending on how hard you drive your car, that may play a role. Also, personally I hate tapping screws and only use machine M3 scews (works fine, even in plastic, when done correctly, and on good quality plastic). And I always go for hex screws wherever possible (really can't stand philips/JIS).

Myself, being a racer, I have replaced steel screws on all of my cars (well, all, except one), with titanium (off-road) or a mix of titanium and aluminium screws (on-road), which, needless to say, is a costly thing to do, and therefore not really recommended outside of racing (where weight saving / distribution is a major factor as well.

[Nikko85 3454]

Sorry typo in OP, I think I am after SS self tappers.

I've already put in self tapping and I've heard bad things about going to machine screws afterwards.

Perhaps that is not a worry? 

If it is m3 machine screws I am happy sourcing them, as I have used them for years on various projects (mainly making drum kits), but really out of my depth on the self tapping side.

 

[hIghQ 149]

Sorry, got no experience in using them after tapping screws.

[Willy iine 18806]

@Nikko85 Sorry to hear, but you had a Ford truck body on there, right?  That's realism!     Ford cars rust so bad here in the salt/snow belt states in the USA.

Hope you find the screws you need.  If in the USA, I would've recommended McMaster Carr..  

I've seen a few 3rd party stainless screw sets sold on eBay based on cars.. maybe you can find one for your chassis.

[BelknapCrater 179]

I replaced a few of the self-tappers on my TT02 ( servo mount, motor mount) with machine screws, and they’re holding up OK! This is on a rally basher.

[Nikko85 3454]

Thanks all.

I think what I'll do is look for some replacement stainless screws (for piece of mind) and then perhaps look into M3 machine screws at a later date.

Final question, I've seen people use No. 4 (2.9 mm) and metric M3 screws - does anyone know which size Tamiya actually use, or are they close enough as to be identical? 

[Willy iine 18806]

@Nikko85 What I’ve done with old rusted M38 screws is wire brushed the rusted screws, dip them overnight in vinegar, rinse and then wire brush the rust off, finally either treat them with WD40 or just painted them.  

I like to keep the vintage vibe so mostly just WD40’ed them.   I don’t drive my cars in the wet so no rust since.  

[Juggular 4964]

Adam Savage recommends this product for removing rusts. 

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ66?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

You can use M3 self tapping screws like below.  I bought a bunch from many different vendors. Some have minor differences, but most are interchangeable with Tamiya screws. (but all of mine are Philips, not JIS)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324694643342?epid=15025192219&hash=item4b994f128e:g:VjIAAOSwsFdg2hAO

 

[hIghQ 149]

3 hours ago, Nikko85 said:

Thanks all.

I think what I'll do is look for some replacement stainless screws (for piece of mind) and then perhaps look into M3 machine screws at a later date.

Final question, I've seen people use No. 4 (2.9 mm) and metric M3 screws - does anyone know which size Tamiya actually use, or are they close enough as to be identical? 

AFAIK Tamiya uses metric only, so M3.

[isomer1 175]

FWIW I've had very good luck with the screws from McMaster-Carr and Screwerk. I use McMaster for the shorter screws as they ship quickly and are less expensive generally.

I get the 10mm and 12mm "Stainless Steel Thread-Forming Screws for Thin Plastic" here: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/96817a910

The threading is identical to the original Tamiya screws - so you can put them in old models as you please. Or if you hate them you can swap back to Tamiya screws at a future rebuild without damage to the model. They are Torx head so you will need a different driver. I prefer them to JIS or Philips but that's just down to personal preference.

Screwerk can be purchased through the manufacturers site or through Amazon. I only use them for the rare long screws.