TD-2 - New Astute

[BuggyGuy 1106]

19 minutes ago, danimaldaisy said:

Does anyone know if the new astute has rear toe in adjustment?

Thanks!

Yes - but only with the hopup aluminium adjustable rear mount.

I think this lets you choose between 2 and 4 degrees IIRC - you can also adjust anti squat with it.

If you need less than 2 degrees you need to change the hubs, I'm using reversed 1 degree aluminium hubs from a TRF 201 on mine with the hopup adjustable mount to get 1 degree total rear toe in (though you also have to change the rear driveshafts to use those particular hubs)

[BuggyGuy 1106]

5 hours ago, danimaldaisy said:

I just realized that the TD2 astute shares gearing, mid motor setup, and the Gear diff from the trf201.  That makes for lots of gearing options!

It's closer to an XV01 than standard 201 for gearbox internalsm

The diffs from the TD2 will only fit mid motor 201's and 211's (but it won't fit in kits that have used the XM conversion with the blue aluminium gearbox rather than the black one that comes with the "proper" XM and XMWs), and the idler gear in all 201 variants has the bearing mounted inside the gear rather than the XV01/TD2 gearbox which mounts the gears in the gearbox moulding.

Secondly the 201XM/XMW and the 211XM have a 4 gear setup with 2 idler gears rather than the 1 found in the TD2 - though they do share the same tooth count for the counter and idler gears and the TA06 gear diff / TD2 ball diff.

Lastly the ball diff from a TD2 - though using the same gear as a 201 will not fit in any rear motor 201 as the shoulders on the diff halfs make it too wide to fit in the gearcase

So yes they do share some bits - and some parts might be interchangeable, but they are also a bit different 

[Jonathon Gillham 4606]

Whats the standard ride height like for the TD2 (amd TD4, presumably it will be similar?)?  I'm assuming they will work well on grass, unlike the TT02B which is just too low.

[danimaldaisy 70]

On 1/1/2023 at 12:48 PM, BuggyGuy said:

Blue spring are harder then the red that comes with the TD2 (and in DT02 spring set). I felt that the blue were slightly softer than the gold that came with the DF03 damper set. I used the golds at the rear and the car just felt better with them on that the blues (that are quite short for a rear spring IMO)

I've used Team Associated 37.5wt (463 CST) at the front, and 32.5wt (388 CST) at the rear.

I expect springs and oil weights to change once I've done a few laps though, though I think it will be in the right ball park for high grip carpet.

If you cross reference spring part numbers in the manual you will find that they point to the DT02 spring kit.  The red springs in the DT02 spring kit are exactly what comes on the TD2.  If you are looking for medium springs you can order a set of stock DT02 springs.

[stockae92 16]

For TD2, is the a mod so that the front would hit the ground first when the front suspension is topped out?

[Juls1 1661]

1 hour ago, stockae92 said:

For TD2, is the a mod so that the front would hit the ground first when the front suspension is topped out?

You can just shorten the push links, generally need to do that if you fit the longer shocks anyway. 

[DaveBuildsRC 210]

On 2/11/2023 at 10:52 PM, Jonathon Gillham said:

Whats the standard ride height like for the TD2 (amd TD4, presumably it will be similar?)?  I'm assuming they will work well on grass, unlike the TT02B which is just too low.

ride height is around 35mm to 40mm. yes they work great on grass.

[Blista 1519]

On 2/12/2023 at 4:52 PM, Jonathon Gillham said:

Whats the standard ride height like for the TD2 (amd TD4, presumably it will be similar?)?  I'm assuming they will work well on grass, unlike the TT02B which is just too low.

If you're thinking of getting a TD2, there's a new one on TM going fairly cheap.  it hasn't sold in the last couple of auctions (and it's starting to get to me).

[Jonathon Gillham 4606]

9 hours ago, Blista said:

If you're thinking of getting a TD2, there's a new one on TM going fairly cheap.  it hasn't sold in the last couple of auctions (and it's starting to get to me).

That seller has the matching set on sale. Given they're in Tairua, I wonder if its because they need cash following the cyclone, in which case are you taking advantage of the situation or helping out?

[Blista 1519]

1 hour ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

That seller has the matching set on sale. Given they're in Tairua, I wonder if its because they need cash following the cyclone, in which case are you taking advantage of the situation or helping out?

They had them for sale at that price for quite some time before the cyclone.  I'd say you'd be doing them a favor.

[TamiyaD 206]

On 2/15/2022 at 10:30 PM, DaveBuildsRC said:

Looks not bad when you dont go box art. not my td4 images found online.

 

I am searching for a nice livery for my Super Avante and the above pictures are perfect examples (especially the 1st one).

Just a question, how can I reproduce the decals of the kit in different color (just as the first picture)?

[DaveBuildsRC 210]

1 hour ago, TamiyaD said:

Just a question, how can I reproduce the decals of the kit in different color (just as the first picture)?

Custom decals from this site
https://mciracing.ca/products/1-10th-tam-58085-avante-2001-decals

 

 

[TamiyaD 206]

Thanx a lot!!

[Nikko85 3453]

personally I've never seen a car so improved by not going box art. Those canopy covers look incredible. 

[TamiyaD 206]

I know that most people dislike the appearance of Super avante TD4 but I really like this chassis and its performance plus I bought it 199 euros which is quite a bargain I think.

OK I agree that box-art may not be the ideal livery but I think that small changes can make big difference in its final appearance!

2 hours ago, Nikko85 said:

If you like the look of the  TD-4 then great, but personally I've never seen a car so improved by not going box art. Those canopy covers look incredible. 

 

[Nikko85 3453]

18 minutes ago, TamiyaD said:

I know that most people dislike the appearance of Super avante TD4 but I really like this chassis and its performance plus I bought it 199 euros which is quite a bargain I think.

OK I agree that box-art may not be the ideal livery but I think that small changes can make big difference in its final appearance!

 

yes - I actually don't dislike it like some people do, but those painted canopies just completely transform it. It does seem like a nice chassis. 

[SlideWRX 785]

I wasn't interested at the ~$300 it costs in the US, but AsiaTees has them for $175.  Even with no shipping option below $60 (ouch), that is still $60 cheaper than Amain or Tower!  Really frustrating that prices vary that much.  Regardless, the difference made me give it another think, and I now have a kit on the way.

How are the adjusters at the ends of the turnbuckles?  I got the same with the DT-03 turnbuckle kit (or they look the same) and I was disappointed at the slop when the ball was popped in there.  I ended up using Tamiya's low friction 5mm adjuster (53601) on those and that took up a lot of the free play while still being smooth.

[SlideWRX 785]

The Chassis is built; interesting build, if a bit odd.  As everyone does, I did things a bit different.

 

First off are the CVAs - The rear pistons were replaced by #42332 - RC TRF BIG BORE DAMPER PISTONS. They are 10.95 diameter vs ~10.85 diameter of the CVA sprue parts, so fit better and wobble less.  Four 1.5mm holes (it is a blank ready for drilling) produce similar flow area vs the CVA.

The front pistons were replaced with #53573 - 3 Hole Hop up TRF pistons.  The pre-molded holes were small, so 3 additional 1.2mm holes were drilled to get pretty close to the same flow area. The piston diameter is also ~.1mm bigger for less wobble.

Between the X-rings I added a single 0.13mm shim.  I can't honestly tell you if this is better or worse from a technical point of view , but I figured taking up some of the room for those to slide might be better?The depth of the o-ring pocket was ~4.1mm, and the two X-rings were ~3.9mm (~1.95 each).  A 0.25mm shim seemed to introduce some resistance, but the 0.13 I could not tell apart from no shim.

 

During the servo part, I used the wrong ball connector on the servo.  It was the last one in the bag, and I didn't see the correct one in the next bag.  Instructions maybe should have said "use 5mm ball connector.  No, not the one left over in the bag you are currently using, NO, NOT THE ONE YOU ARE STARING AT.  The one in the next bag.  Trust us, it's there."  Apparently the TD4 has this one as an option for a smaller servo saver head?

For the Turnbuckles, I use Arrowmax Titanium Turnbuckles.  I love the holes in them; they make assembly/adjustment soo much easier.  Just slide a 1.5mm hex driver in there and that turnbuckle isn't going anywhere.  No worry about scratching the turnbuckle either.  The end pieces are #53601 low friction adjusters.  both my DT-03 & DT-02 used the regular adjusters, and the slack in them bothered me, so I switched to these and have been satisfied.  They survive fairly well in my other two buggies; If they become an issue I will try Kyosho #97201 ball end set; I've heard they are tighter than the standard Tamiya ones.

The wheels!  These are from the Helion Criterion.  They look like standard 12mm hex wheels, and the fronts are...  The rear are extra thick.   I couldn't get many threads on the wheel nut to hold them on.  My solution was to try these nuts from McMaster-Carr - Flex-Top Locknut for Heavy Vibration.  I turned them around from normal so that the lock nut part slides inside the wheel to get me enough threads, and some locking action to hold it on.  The listing makes it look like that part that slides in would only be ~5mm, but it was 5.5mm, and the hole in the wheel is ~4.8, so I had to drill out the hole to get these to fit.  I fear the nut doesn't have a good purchase on the soft plastic of the wheel and these may not work for long; we shall see.  What part number would be a wheel axle that fits but has an extra ~4-6mm of thread?  Anyone got an idea?  if I had more thread sticking out I could use the regular nuts.  I'll check the depth of the 12mm hex to see if something can be done on that side.

[SlideWRX 785]

Didn't know if I should put this here or the TD OCD thread . Someone recently posted a pic where for their on-road car they cut the body without cutting through the leftovers - just along the cut line.  Challenge accepted!  I put a fresh blade on the xacto and got to work.  Mostly harder that with scissors, but also cleaner, and more satisfying?  Not too bad, just need some patience to stay on the line, don't go to quick and be really careful around the turns.  If you have snapped bits off of a lexan body before, you know once the line is scored well you can bend/break it, almost like glass.  That helps in some spots.  Other times once the line was scored deep I kinda 'tore' it along the line.  Definitely a learning experience!

[simalarion 2196]

Wait, did Super Avante TD4 just highjack a TD2 Astute Thread??.

I really prefer the TD2  actually :), more than once this kit has been though a total price check in basket, that usually mean ti will be bought at some point