Cheap alloy replacement parts - bargain or avoid?

[foz75 93]

The general rule is you get what you pay for, I know. With shocks there are moving parts, seals, etc and cheap ones are likely to be worse than the standard Tamiya CVAs. But what about "solid" parts? 

More specifically in my case, CC-01 C hubs? I need a new set, and can either get an original parts tree, or alloy "upgrades" in either expensive or cheap versions...  are the cheap ebay ones to be avoided? or are they good enough? strength, tolerances, size, etc? a quick ebay search has found just the C hubs for about 6 quid, or even a full set of C hubs, lower wishbones, knuckles, drive shafts and hinge pins for less than 20 quid posted. Anyone any experience with these? bargain, or to be avoided?

[silvertriple 3557]

My understanding of the way alloy parts works:

if you replace a plastic fusible component, you'll move the weak point somewhere else (chassis, diff cells) where you don't necessarily want to have something broken. And then the cheap alloy parts, they don't break, but they tend to bend which means it is something you'll have to replace as well. So not sure it is really interesting at the end...

Now, if it is for the shelf, it adds some bling to the car, and it is definitely a different purpose :-D

[hIghQ 149]

Also keep in mind that cheaper aluminium parts often use softer alloys and are usually also not hardened, so actually bend rather easily (not all that much force required). There are areas on RC cars where aluminium parts make sense and can be an improvement. Suspension parts however, are rarely among those.

[Willy iine 18804]

I would just stick with the Tamiya parts tree, unless you want the specific bling factor.  I'm not too keen on using aluminum parts on plastic chassis especially when they come in some non-grayscale color scheme, but that is just me.  

Carbon fiber chassis and aluminum/titanium makes sense.   But usually those aluminum parts may not be so cheap.

[InsaneJim69 1584]

Alloy C hubs are fine and are a nice addition. I have seen those cheaper ones and have a set and they are quite good, the do help tighten up the steering if you use uprated kingpins too. I Def would not fit alloy lower arms as that will directly shift the weak point to the chassis. Never been a fan of alloy arms myself as there is nothing wrong with the plastic ones that offer some degree of flex and thus less actual breakages. Same with alloy knuckles used them a few times and see no obvious advantage over plastic.

James.

[Dakratfink 965]

Totally opinion based ( with some anecdotal experience added ) 

For the most part what has been said by 2-3 individuals already about wanting “some” give and flex in lower arms and alloy only shifting the weak spot inward is true.

That said there are some places where alloy may be better than a stock plastics part. 
High heat like Nitro car you’d want an alloy chassis rather than plastic.

Shock towers sometimes benefit from being  a little more rigid.

Crawlers may want extra weight down low for more grip and lower CG.

You may just want the bling factor. 
 

I really wish RPM made arms and hub carriers for Tamiya . The replacement stuff they make for AARMA, Traxxas, Associated etc are all stronger plastic than the OEM stuff , and that is saying a lot with how tough AARMA and Traxxas plastics can be. 

[alvinlwh 5888]

1 hour ago, Willy iine said:

I'm not too keen on using aluminum parts on plastic chassis especially when they come in some non-grayscale color scheme, but that is just me.  

Now, Tamiya blue will stick out like a sore thumb and look strange on your M38s... 😁

[foz75 93]

Thanks for all the info! I think I will get a set of alloy C hubs, and leave all other parts of as original. I only need to replace the C hubs anyway

And why is it that the majority of alloy parts are that hideous blue colour?

[hIghQ 149]

17 minutes ago, foz75 said:

And why is it that the majority of alloy parts are that hideous blue colour?

It's Tamiya's signature color. Each of the big manufacturers used to have a distinctive color.

[SuperChamp82 743]

Tamiya have followed Apple in making everything the same + simple these days - but that doesn’t mean modern designs automatically need alloy hop ups

Most aftermarket parts just transfer stress to a more expensive / bigger part to fix - so unless you go all in (like the Yeah Racing TT02 aluminium packs for $500) its a shelf queen / personal choice or fools errand 

Even aftermarket alloy shocks aren’t a reliable choice - because the seals on 90% aren’t engineered to a reliable standard and weep so badly they not only lack damping but often bounce oil onto tyres 

In short, Yeah Racing are ok if you go for a full set to run otherwise fill your boots for a shelf queen or avoid 👍

 

[Jonathon Gillham 4605]

I use alloy hopups for certain areas but not that many. I've also tried a few brands and found Yeah Racing, GPM, Jazrider and Xtra Speed to all be decent quality, as well as Tamiya of course. 

Generally I'll replace bits that break that also won't really transfer load, eg alloy body mounts fir the lunchbox, wheel hexes, suspension blocks (esp on cars using the TRF style arms, the TA07 Pro and stramgely FF04 come with plastic, alloy is a necessary upgrade here) and uprights, but avoid things like arms.

[Mrowka 493]

My only experience with eBay special alloy parts is with some universals that I fitted to a rather hot Kyosho Javelin.

They cost maybe 1/3 of what genuine Kyosho equivalents cost and lasted a few months. Under the circumstances, probably better than I had a right to expect.

FWIW, genuine Kyosho universals fitted to another Javelin are still going strong. YMMV.

[DeadMeat666 1675]

On 10/21/2021 at 12:53 AM, SuperChamp82 said:

so unless you go all in (like the Yeah Racing TT02 aluminium packs for $500)

I've never seen a Yeah Racing aluminum pack for $500 or even close to that, let alone one intended for a TT02.

Link?

[SuperChamp82 743]

Sorry - I was fat fingered @DeadMeat666

I meant c. $300 plus import fees - so closer to $400 in the UK atm:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yeah-Racing-Aluminum-Tuning-Conversion-Kit-Red-for-Tamiya-TT-02-MODELS-CK-TT02RD-/363169021611?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=707-127634-2357-0

[DeadMeat666 1675]

1 hour ago, SuperChamp82 said:

Sorry - I was fat fingered @DeadMeat666

I meant c. $300 plus import fees - so closer to $400 in the UK atm:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yeah-Racing-Aluminum-Tuning-Conversion-Kit-Red-for-Tamiya-TT-02-MODELS-CK-TT02RD-/363169021611?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=707-127634-2357-0

That's severely marked up, as are many things on eBay.

The price of that set is closer to $200 plus shipping:

https://hk.rcmart.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=13418&sort=p.price&order=DESC

But I get your point 

[Nicadraus 6194]

I've replaced my c-hubs, suspension arms, knuckles and suspension arm mount of my CC-01. I used Xtraspeed. I stayed away from GPM which has a soft aluminum. YR is also a good option. 

If using the CC-01 as an average basher, no need to replace them with aluminum. But if you intend to use it for light crawling too, then upgrading to aluminum will be relevant. The CC-01's plastic is brittle and replacing these moving parts will be very useful and not just a bling factor.

[simalarion 2194]

On 10/22/2021 at 4:33 PM, SuperChamp82 said:

Sorry - I was fat fingered @DeadMeat666

I meant c. $300 plus import fees - so closer to $400 in the UK atm:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yeah-Racing-Aluminum-Tuning-Conversion-Kit-Red-for-Tamiya-TT-02-MODELS-CK-TT02RD-/363169021611?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=707-127634-2357-0

Probably possible then to buy chassis, body, screws and other remaing parts loose (if you just download manual you will get parts number)?. Just seems a waste to buy a kit and throw away 70% of the plastic parts

[DeadMeat666 1675]

10 minutes ago, simalarion said:

Probably possible then to buy chassis, body, screws and other remaing parts loose (if you just download manual you will get parts number)?. Just seems a waste to buy a kit and throw away 70% of the plastic parts

You'd be surprised.

Buying a bunch of bits always turns out to be exponentially more expensive than just buying a complete kit (and throwing away - or selling! - the parts you won't use). Especially for something like a TT02, which really isn't that expensive to begin with.

[BuggyGuy 1106]

6 hours ago, DeadMeat666 said:

You'd be surprised.

Buying a bunch of bits always turns out to be exponentially more expensive than just buying a complete kit (and throwing away - or selling! - the parts you won't use). Especially for something like a TT02, which really isn't that expensive to begin with.

This 100% - I'm still gathering parts for a DN01 / TRF201 build, would have saved a packet if I could have got a DN01 Zahhak at RRP

[SuperChamp82 743]

Agree with @DeadMeat1966

On 10/25/2021 at 11:00 AM, DeadMeat666 said:

Buying a bunch of bits always turns out to be exponentially more expensive than just buying a complete kit (and throwing away - or selling! - the parts you won't use). Especially for something like a TT02, which really isn't that expensive to begin with.

It’s even truer with older chassis - like the TA03 

It’s far cheaper to find a TA03-RS TRF (new or used) than buy similar hop ups piecemeal - noting some aluminium colours were incredibly rare + now cost a fortune 

The TT02 is no different - although I don’t think Tamiya have released a TRF yet / the Type S is the nearest start point:

https://www.thercracer.com/2020/03/ultimate-tamiyacup-tamiya-tt02-type-s.html?m=0

The Racer stuck to Tamiya hop ups to balance power to weight on the track but adding Yeah Racing bling to a Type S would create an epic shelf queen !

[hIghQ 149]

3 hours ago, SuperChamp82 said:

The TT02 is no different - although I don’t think Tamiya have released a TRF yet / the Type S is the nearest start point:

No, there has not been (and never will be) a TRF version of the TT-02. The TA-03 only got that treatment, because back then, it was the best car Tamiya had. Since then, they have developed TRF into a line of cars in their own right, not just hopped up plastic cars. Today's tuned versions of standard Tamiya cars are called "R", "RR", "MS", etc. The best version of the TT-02 so far has been the Type-SR.

And yes, sets of tuning parts are cheaper than single parts. Kit versions that include tuning parts are cheaper still.

[InsaneJim69 1584]

Iirc the last TRF car that had a base chassis would have been the TA04 TRF and then as you say they started to have their own line of TRF cars. With the Likes of the TA05R and MS being their top of line within a shared base chassis.  👍

I remember when the TA03R-S TRF was revealed and I used to drool over the pictures of all the limited edition coloured aluminium parts 😍👍 that was a gorgeous chassis.

James.

[SuperChamp82 743]

Yup - @Insane_jim_69is right

The last mainstream TRF was the TA04 not 03 - which was based on the TRF414M2 / 2002 WCE edition car Tamiya released a few months earlier 

Also completely agree re the TA03-RS TRF - I’ve 2 NIB, with one becoming an Autumn project in the Builds ! 

Re how TRF evolved, I honestly struggle with it being a sacrosanct line @hIghQ - not because you’re wrong (Tamiya certainly play it that way), but each TRF car ultimately gets rebadged as TA chassis MS, MSX, MSXX etc variants to empty parts bins as soon as top end racers want something new  

Many TA MS+ cars therefore end up being as good as (if not better) than the original TRFs - at least absent expensive hop ups that subsequently get bundled for a much cheaper price …

Anyway, agree re the TT-02 👍

Sorry to sidetrack your question @foz75

[Jonathon Gillham 4605]

9 hours ago, SuperChamp82 said:

 

Re how TRF evolved, I honestly struggle with it being a sacrosanct line @hIghQ - not because you’re wrong (Tamiya certainly play it that way), but each TRF car ultimately gets rebadged as TA chassis MS, MSX, MSXX etc variants to empty parts bins as soon as top end racers want something new  

Many TA MS+ cars therefore end up being as good as (if not better) than the original TRFs - at least absent expensive hop ups that subsequently get bundled for a much cheaper price …

 

This is interesting. I run a TA07 which is completely different to any TRF car that has been produced. When I got it I thought that maybe it was a trial run before going single belt for the TRF420 or something, but no. That TA08 has gone back to 2 belts. Also Exotek made the most of the TA07 potential with different motor mount to lower the motor which has made it closer to a TRF car.

I think of the TA cars as experimental and TRF as more conservative? I would like to know more

Also, for the OG question, Exotek aren't cheap but the quality is amazing