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  2. nice! keen to see the end result! how did you cut yours? i don't have lexan scissors... was planning to just score with hobby knife. but yeah funny how this brings up old memories - thirty years ago, the guy from the hobby shop convinced me and my dad to go for the metallic blue. they actually painted the shell for us. good call because twelve year old me would have probably messed it up. my eyes were probably like saucers the first time i saw it - it looked stunning! so out of nostalgia i'll definitely go with the metallic again. just have to confirm whether it was the PS16 or PS59. at least i still have the wing to use as sample.
  3. Today
  4. I like this! The days of the 2wd kit cars giving the big boys a scare on tarmac rallies were great.
  5. @lowspot that's a really nice looking TL01 you have there ! As for lipo I am using the only stick shape I have and first lipo I bought since getting back into RC few months ago after 15years hiatus. Which is ... a Bashing 4000 from Gens ACE. It is only a 50c but I doubt it is a limitation for my 15T brushed motor. Gives a good run time and it is cheap enough. I don't think you can find stick shaped lipos above 4000 from what I researched so far. What lipo are you running ? I still had to enlarge a little bit the stick cavity I guess you jad to do the same as it must be the same hardshell for both sticks. Once I will have a decent scale to see where my weight is spread on the chassis I will either get another stick lipo or get some shorty lipos to reduce the weight and keep it more centered. Otherwise I had 2 more sessions with the TL01, one stock, one with the ESC outside. The car still has a very responsive turn-in which I'd like to tame down a bit. Overall I have some good fun and it seems that with tire setup alone you can easily make a TL01 drivable in a rwd configuration. Keep in mind I run exclusively on an Outdoor 1/5th track. My cheap Aliexpress tires start to show signs of wear (probably 6/7 packs) so I swapped the outsides to the inside to finish it off evenly with the next packs. Yesterday I installed a low profile servo (bought 2 from Ali to try a modification with my Stadium Thunder) despite being smaller it is heavier as it is metal but CoG should be slightly better I guess and it is 9kg instead of 3kg so it should be more precise somehow. I am toying with the idea of getting some proper racewheels/tires or keep running Ali tires especially if I go with Speed gears which should make it even easier to put power down. If anyone has some input about this I am all ears.
  6. Just came across this site when searching for something. Still new having only been set up 3 months ago, but I wondered if anyone knew anything about them or had tried them already? Thanks
  7. Hi Adam

    May i ask you about the scan of the Clarion GT-R body instructions again? 
    I want to make the body correctly boxart, that's why i'd really appreciate to have a look in it.

    Many thanks in advance



  8. Grotty Otty


    Nib?! Nope, never gonna happen. Gotta get straight in there, big deep inhale of all the rubbery, plastic goodness then the deep dive to the bottom of the box to release the manuscript of assembly.. Appreciate the desire for a collection however but I just couldn't do it. It'll be fun to build after the anticipation though. Is it the Agrios?
  9. Did somebody call?! 😉 That looks cool. If you do eventually want some e clip pins for the front i have a long, reinforced Super A5 on my CTE RC Shapeways store which uses the 58mm long shafts from the M05 shaft set. If you have any handling issues, give me a shout. I have tried a LOT of options.
  10. Thanks for the tips. I am going to keep the stock arms for now because i already had hopup parts in my spares box, so i would like to see how it runs as is. Also, i know that in theory the long arm kits don't widen the chassis, but this shell is really narrow. It barely goes over this setup, although i haven't check if the wheels have any offset or if it has thick hexes. The main aim is for something to carry the 306 shell which will run nicely in the street. I'll have a look at those towers/stiffeners. I spotted them on thercracer.com when i was thinking about making an FF02 out of an M03.
  11. So the Rough Rider is still waiting on paint (the Aust Tamiya distributor is still unpacking it’s latest container, so hopefully I’ll have some soon). I’ve been sidetracked anyway, as I’ve had this to build in time for a Round of the Australian Nationals this coming weekend at my local club. I’m using my old engine at this stage (been an extremely good engine, with about 30 litres of fuel through it now, still has good compression), I will buy a new engine probably in the next couple months. I’m getting a body for this and my Truggy airbrushed ready for the Nationals, so I painted up an extra body for the practice rounds (been a while since I’ve raced buggy, could get a little untidy for a few tanks Cant wait to hit the track with this, I’ve been wanting to get a 1/8 buggy again since I went to the 2018 Worlds in Perth, Australia
  12. Busdriver


    I'm with @Pablo68 it's the wheels and tyres first then the body, especially if it's hard plastic
  13. Brass sleeves over the screw pins on the lower arms? I always thought that was to prevent screw pins or shafts from bending? (I have never experienced that on this chassis, although I have never done any big jumps). What I have found is the blue arm ends get slightly bent on each end, requiring a spacer to be placed on the inside ends to prevent lateral movement (replacements are still available fairly easily) With a brass sleeve installed, after an impact i would expect to see the force transferred to the gearbox tabs, breaking them? (Because the blue arms will have been prevented from flexing) it took over 50 hours approx of driving before they started to bend on mine! On my new build tshot i documented the shafts required to replace the screw pins
  14. I can't answer that without knowing the geometry involved. TBH if everything clears and the distance between the servo center (screw) and the ball studs is similar it won't matter too much.
  15. For the ultimate in mods to this chassis see @ThunderDragonCy as he has taken the evolution of this to the extreme.
  16. Repair and upgrade parts for some TT-02s, and Pro-line sand tyres to try at the beach this summer
  17. A bunch of torx titanium screws arrived today. I hope they work better than stainless steel!
  18. I forgot to mention, I'm in Manila, not the provinces.
  19. I bash around my RC cars in the Philippines. I was wondering whether there is anywhere I can race my onroad and offroad cars. If not, I'll start my own club with some of my friends.
  20. Plenty of scope for upgrades, look forward to seeing where you take it. Remember that the yeah racing GF01 long arm kit from yeah racing drops straight on. lots of gf01 hopups fit. I believe the shock towers for m03 from fiber lite may fit, these help stop the chassis spreading letting dirt into the gearbox. Or you can use the Tamiya gf01 alloy braces. Tamiya did make a brace that went on with TL01LA sway bars.
  21. Pablo68


    Not my thing really. NiB are invariably expensive too. I like to experience the brand new freshly opened kit, but then I'm a dirty little whore for building them. Can't stop myself. It usually starts with me playing with the wheels and tires, it's all over after that.
  22. Yesterday
  23. skinned


    Is it a sand scorcher or a frog?
  24. Thanks for the suggestions. All worth looking into. @NobbySideways - thanks for the offer. I may be in touch. @willyChang - I hadn't realised there were wifi/bluetooth receivers. I'll look at whats available. Michael
  25. @ThunderDragonCy there’s a few of us on here!
  26. I’ve been looking forward to this since you first teased us with the mention of the 306 shell
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