Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. I think there is a bit of misunderstanding regarding how tires generate cornering force in this post, and I feel compelled to clarify, respectfully. Tires need a skid angle to generate any cornering force at all - this is how they work. So a car moving in a straight line would have its tires at 0deg of skid angle and the tires would not be generating any cornering force (let's ignore toe and Ackerman for the discussion). When you make a steering input a skid angle will develop and with it, a cornering force. The skid angle would only be a few degrees. In fact all 4 wheels will assume a certain amount of skid angle - the rear tires will do so as soon as the car initiates the turn - and therefore generate a certain amount of cornering force. What is true, is that past a certain skid angle (say, 10deg...) the cornering force does not really increase anymore. It does not decrease; it just stops increasing as you increase the skid angle.
  3. That is an interesting topic and surprisingly one with no definite answers indeed! I researched it for a project where I needed the motor to turn clockwise (i.e. in reverse direction compared to the normal direction found on most Tamiya models). I went in a different direction, using a brushed motor instead. Where I left is that some ESC's have a setting for CW or CCW rotation direction. As far as timing goes, my understanding after some research is that timing from the endbell and timing from the ESC have the same effect and as such can be cumulated, cancel each other out etc. Setting the endbell to 10deg and the ESC to 10deg is the same as setting the endbell to 20deg and ESC to 0deg as far as I know. So if you could find an ESC that supports CW direction and also has adjustable timing, you would be able to make it work. If the motor had adjustable timing you would set it to 0 and use the ESC to get the timing you want. If it did not (for example, fixed timing motor for spec racing stuck at 18deg) you could compensate for that (now reversed) timing through the ESC. I am curious to know if anyone has tried the above.
  4. That's superb looking. Well done. I wish you luck with the postal racing. I hope to try mine for the first time after the rebuild tomorrow.
  5. That looks factory finished. Marvellous job, well done.
  6. Just download the manual and it's easy! When rebuilding an old model in need, I like to print out the manual and go methodically in reverse of the build steps, highlighting and documenting each incorrect or missing part, screw, etc. (Just remember, the printed manual may not be to scale, so measuring the fasteners is essential). Then source all those items before the rebuild, ensuring as close to authentic as possible. Have fun!
  7. My first RC car as a kid was a Tyco Baja Bandit. They've since gotten quite collectable. I debated picking on up but for $500+ for one in good shape I just couldn't do it. Then I started thinking about building one. I saw someone do a build using a super hot shot chassis and thought hey I could try that. I've never done anything custom before though, just some TT02 kits. The Super Hot Shot chassis matches the wheel and chassis profile really well of the original bandit, just bigger. I used some YeahRacing Aluminum wheels to get a closer match to the original look vs the gold wheels that come in the kit. For the body I got a Team BlueGroove King Cab and then custom sized graphics from MCI. The above was all the easiest pieces. Getting the body to fit I knew I could figure out but the roll bar and bumpers were going to be a challenge. I took it as an opportunity to get a 3D printer and started teaching myself CAD in Fusion. I was able to print body mounts and now have prototype of front bumper. I need to male some tweaks but it's coming together. My CAD design of the roll bar is done and I need to start test prints.
  8. I seem to remember having trouble undoing Tamiya blue. I had used an old tube which had thickened like shoe glue. I used on a locking nut on metal frame chassis. I had a heck of time undoing it. I thought I was about to break the bolt. I suppose the strength also depends on how viscous it is at the time of applying it. When it's watery it wasn't that strong. But the point is that thickened Tamiya could be really tough. I doubt that Permatex blue I've used for the past several years could be that strong (breakaway at 115inch/pound). Instead of turning into thick strong glue, Permatex becomes crusty. If you can't use it, you can't glue it. I got a gigantic bottle of Chinese 222 (50ml, as opposed to 5ml). The genuine Loctite 222's max strength is supposed to have break strength of 62 inch/pound. Loctite 243 is supposed to have break strength of 180 inch. If the Chinese 222 should be similar to Loctite 222, it's weaker than Permatex blue. But I haven't tried this 222 yet. Fresh Tamiya blue feels similar to Permatex blue. Based on that, I think it falls between Loctite 222 and 243 (maybe close to 242, which requires about 110inch/pound break torque). But when Tamiya thickens, it might be stronger than 243. Perhaps that's why Tamiya came up with the red gel that does not thicken as easily?
  9. Today
  10. Used as can be seen in photos. Has alloy oil shocks, rubber sealed bearings through out, steering turnbuckles. Has extra long drive shafts at rear and wider hexes to bring wheels further outwards. Aerial removable for running, has mud-flaps and exhausts which are strong enough for running. Body has working front custom made pop-ups (fixed) with front and rear LEDs, just plug into the bind port on your reciever. Also has elastic binds to pull sills inward to give it a better look. Both body and wheels are Rally Legends, wheels scuffed but no cracks and tires are glued and have firm sponges in them. Loads of grip left on tires. No electrics included. Other than that just put in your electrics and go. (One negative which has come to light whilst giving it a look over, one of the C hubs has threaded so lower pin is prone to falling out) Any questions please ask. Paypal and UK only please £125 ONO (not including Royal Mail 2nd class signed for or Pick up welcome)
  11. I printed the mirrors twice. Support removal is a pain, whatever the orientation of the print. Powder base process will be definitely better, with potentially the possibility of relying on polypropylene which would give a lot more flex to the part. The cluster files are already good to go. I also prepared some masks for the windows, I'll probably share the file somewhere (cults3D with the stl files?). Next : clean the body, masking and paintjob. I'm not sure to be able to do this within this week-end. But i'm targeting to have this done soon...
  12. Lancia Delta body and cockpit complete! Taken my time with this one and really chuffed with the result, hoping to finish the chassis and get a final postal racing run in with it by the weekend if weather allows!
  13. Bumper delivery today, Modelsport for various paints, indoor racing wheels and tyres and receivers for a switch to Futaba Tx. Courtesy of Tamiya Club member @Grumpy pants received my first chassis for mini racing, an M-08 complete with phat bodies mini. I’ve also paired that with some martini decals. Still working on my XV-01 so the workbench (dining table) is getting busy 😂
  14. Thank you and thanks for all the positive comments. I took the plunge on Monday and ordered a battery and charger. Pleased to say that after almost 30 years buried in the attic, it started first time and runs very well considering! Luckily, the controller worked too, as it still had a set of 12 Duracell batteries inside and they hadn't corroded! (They still even showed power on the indicator) I've just ordered replacement parts for those I mentioned in my first post. Next job is to start stripping it down to clean it. My biggest worry is remembering where everything goes and which screw is which! The shell is a bit of a disgrace, any tips on stripping the paint and repainting it?
  15. Ah, I had a plan to use TT-02 carbon tower on front and Type S on rear, to have adjustability. Unfortunately, it will not work in that case 🤔 Steering limiter: I am aware that more angle is not better. Current setup seems to be fine. It is much better than in TT-02B which is like a tank
  16. You are right. The carbon shock towers enable you to use regular length touring spring (like the ones you are using already). With the stock towers you are forced to use very short springs such as the one that come in the TT-02 super mini CVA's. All of this assuming you want a performance-oriented ride height of 5mm (indoor) to 6mm (outdoor asphalt), not just driving around with a car jacked up to 10mm 😅 Regarding the steering limiter, I use it for my on-road TT-02 but not for my rally one. It's in both the Porsche 911 and Subaru 99' manuals although that doesn't mean anything in itself. My opinion is that the limiter is very convenient to set your EPA's symmetrically even if you don't have a setup station. More importantly, any more travel and you are just scrubbing the tires around; it is a common misconception that more steering angle gives more steering The extra steering angle (without the limiter ) is however useful for AWD drifting during which you actually counter steer (or a gyro does it for you) and make use of the extra steering angle. The best opinion will be your own, after you do your own testing with and without, as usual.
  17. @Bwaaatch New Jersey you say?!? I have not heard of this and will need to check them out.
  18. ** NEW IN BOX ** The popular Lunchbox model from Tamiya's catalog makes a comeback in stylish black. This R/C assembly kit features the trademark boxy minivan body with metal-plated fenders, front grille and dampers, and includes a sticker set to add the finishing touches. All this is raised up over monster truck wheels cased in 115mm tires for a cool number that you can take for a spin any time, anywhere. BONUS ITEM INCLUDED: Oil Shocks Absorber / Damper For Tamiya CW-01 https://www.ebay.com/itm/204707324861
  19. I've been for years now looking for the blue-yellow liveried one. I believe this one is also the Kyosho body, with your own livery to make the 1999 car, right? looks gorg!
  20. Yep, I also think they are 0 degrees. I did buy some Hotshot alloy rear hubs, but didn't realise that the Boomerang hubs are offset to line up with the offset upper arms. Now, what I would like to find is a small bumper. Also found out that the Hotshot bumper won't fit too. I may end up trying to hack up the kit bumper to get rid of the wide profile of it. We'll see...
  21. Very curious on how it will perform ! im surprised you run so low, but i guess you know what you're doing ... are you taking part in TOC edc kinzigtal ? (I'm not, Just dreaming)
  22. Toll ein Hirobo! Davon habe ich auch noch 3 Stück. 😁
  23. Had to reorder some Black PETG as I finished a roll quite a few weeks ago to print some stuff for the Hilux bodyshell The front end is now fine, as well as the roll bar (original version, just modified for the interface between the main parts and the side bars, and the exhausts. The mirror are lijely to require some mods... Roll bar was printed splitted with adaptative layers, and the result is good. I need to rework the mirrors and make those files available both as cluster and for home printing...
  24. 3D printer are more and more frequent in the hobby apparently :-D On my side, finalising the files for the 44B Hilux bodyshell reproduction from my friend of Loisirs Creations RC here in France...
  25. Bumping this thread because I am excited about an upcoming trip to a new Mini 4wd racing venue in New Jersey, it's called Sidebite. I'm in the UK, but this is in fact my most accessible Mini 4wd experience, given that almost nothing happens over here, and that I don't speak Italian! Sidebite is brand new (opened in March) and very much modelled on DXN Provisions not he West coast: https://www.instagram.com/dxn_provisions/ Sidebite doesn't have an online shop yet, but seems pretty well stocked with kits and tune-up parts. I plan to go with my daughter, buy a kit, build on site and race in on their 5-lane wooden track! Will reports back when done. Very much looking forward to being in a room with fellow enthusiasts!
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...