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  2. Reproduction boy ordered from Marwan RC
  3. Also, there was a question about what charger I use. I have this one, which I seem to remember was pretty much the cheapest option when I bought my car :-)
  4. Thanks everyone for the in-depth answers and advice. I took the ESC apart and checked that all the connections looks good, and went through the calibration per the manual, as suggested. Interestingly, it does run better when the wheels aren’t touching the ground, perhaps pointing towards a battery that’s not holding its charge fully? I think I might start by purchasing a new 7.2V and see if that fixes the issue (I really should get myself one anyway!). Any recommendations on a good battery? Thanks again.
  5. Driver and 'roll cage' are in! As is the dust cover, which with a bit of trimming managed to make work with the driver and 'cage' (rather than either / or as per the manual) Just shell painting and stickers left now!
  6. The first thing I would check is to make sure the dogbones are engaging properly. The stock dogbones do require something on either side of them to keep them "in place". I've used cut ball point pen springs but ended up using some cut pieces of automotive silicone vacuum tubing jammed in there to keep the dogbones in place.
  7. Today
  8. 7/10 , well executed, need a full rotation and drive off for a perfect score....🙄😂😂😂 Tbh, the 2s looked impressive, looks quicker than mine with the Goolrc on 3s! Nose weight needs to be added to get the full use out of power it's got, how much weight tends to be trial and error. I've gone back to beast mode, for an attempt at cracking 70mph with a 7700kv, but to also try 5s / 6s on the beach with the 3800kv 🚀😬😀 Spotless!! 👍
  9. Well, I seem to have found the issue, or at least part of it. My father, who built the Boomerang (it's his car) used the wrong discs in the shocks, the parts with the wee holes where the oil comes through. He attached the one with the single, tiny hole on it rather than the one with the two larger holes. While the shocks are better than they were.. they now spring up... they don't spring up a lot. But I think this was the problem all along. I didn't even notice it until a few days ago. Also, new topic about my new Hot Shot (Re-re):
  10. So now I have another issue with another newly purchased car. Well, not really an issue per say, but something odd that I've never seen happen on an R/C car. I built my new Hot Shot the other day... and it wasn't fun at all, so many things went wrong! Even my Konghead build went smoother.. anyway, I've noticed that if I lift the car from the car and pull it on it's rear wheels, one of the wheels doesn't spin. I think it's the front right if looking at it facing away from you. It also doesn't spin when under acceleration if I'm holding it. BUT... it does spin if I compress the suspension a tiny bit. It's like the pressure of the suspension is preventing it from spinning. This means it SHOULD be spinning when on the ground as the suspension will be slightly compressed. But I cannot fathom why a wheel won't spin. It doesn't feel tight or jammed when I turn it manually. If I spin either of the front wheels, other wheel does turn in the opposite direction as it should, so it's definitely connected properly. But why wouldn't a single wheel spin when the suspension is fully decompressed?
  11. I did replace the stock motor a long time ago with this one - if you have suggestions for a better (faster) one that would work for this car, then I am all ears! I don’t have access to another radio set, unfortunately. I’m willing to start replacing parts in order to fix it - I just don’t know which I should replace first. Maybe the battery?
  12. Some parts arrived today... Aluminum rear uprights (TRF416) and installed them.
  13. Some parts arrived today... Aluminum rear uprights (TRF416) and installed them. Steel center universal shafts for CC-01 (Xtraspeed)
  14. parts still available. Some flexibility with price.
  15. Hi guys I've got a tt01 which I built from scratch Using many parts from my tgs nitro car. My question is what's the best shocks I can buy for my car to give me decent ground clearance and able to handle cornering
  16. I find Tamiya servo savers (which are not the best to begin with) aren't so good on modern servos. Especially servos with metal gears, as you can get plenty of torque in the thread (and you need to to stop it unthreading). Too much torque and (IMO) even with the plastic washer installed, the servo saver binds up and won't return to centre after a knock. A good servo saver is a help. Plenty of slop in vintage Tamiya truck design doesn't help either. My KBF (despite being my favourite monster truck) is terrible for that. Under acceleration, the wheels naturally want to go toe-out - so adding a bit more toe-in helps. Also the geometry with that centrally-mounted steering post is very bad indeed, when the front wheels go over a bump the steering angle changes. This is (a form of) bump-steer and is especially pronounced on these trucks. Check the steering angle throughout all the suspension movement and adjust according to where you think the compression 'normally' is. Retro-fitting a steering rack to my KBF is one of the first big projects for my 3D printer
  17. Finished at last, shelfer at front, runner behind, notice the two different silvers!
  18. Looks like a Tamiya TEU-101BK speedo. Very common and usually run well (I've had dozens and never broken one but I know others haven't been so lucky). That whining noise is quite normal - to adjust the speed electronically, the speed controller 'pulses' the current to the motor very rapidly. This creates the whining sound. Learn to ignore it, it's not going to go away. Now as for what's wrong with it - could be a variety of things, but the phrase "packed away for a while" and "eagerly charged all the batteries" throw up some warnings - how old are those batteries? Did you fast-charge them or trickle them? If they've been sat for a while then they might have got badly out of balance. Your fast charger may well detect a peak in a single cell before the others are charged, which means you'll have one charged cell but not enough voltage to operate the motor. When you try to go full throttle, the voltage drops and the ESC cuts off. I don't recall exactly what the 101 does when the voltage drops (it doesn't have a safety cut-off like later LiPo-safe ESCs) but at some point it won't have enough current to operate. So - first thing, if you have another battery or five, try them and see if you get better results. Also try running it with the wheels off the ground and see if it will run longer / faster. Less load on the wheels = less current draw = should run longer and/or faster before shutting off, if it's a battery issue. Try slow charging your batteries or looking up some advice on reviving old NiMHs. In my experience once NiMH batteries are past their best they don't recover well, but some people have better results. Check the terminals in the battery and ESC - those Tamiya connectors are quite bad, they overheat and burn, leading to bad connections and poor performance. Having said that, your steering servo seems to have plenty of speed, so it might not be a battery issue. Another thing you could try (ideally with the car propped on a tub or something so the wheels aren't on the ground) is to swap the steering and ESC plugs in the receiver. This won't 'fix' anything, but it lets you test the throttle lever by watching the servo move. If the servo doesn't move smoothly when you operate the throttle lever then you have a radio problem. If the servo moves fine but the ESC doesn't respond correctly to the steering channel then you have an ESC/battery problem. Another thing to try - IIRC the 101 needs to be calibrated to your radio. It could operate incorrectly if it's not calibrated. Follow the setup instructions here: https://www.tamiyausa.com/media/files/45029ml-955-8787.pdf Let us know if that gets you anywhere
  19. Painted the driver today too...he might want to get that left eye seen to
  20. Hmm, you're running a brushed motor, NiMH battery and AM radio. Forget everything I just said I had the same issue a long while ago with an old Kyosho ZX5 with analogue radio. Not sure exactly what the problem was, but had something to do with the radio or the receiver. Changed it out with 2.4GHz and problem solved. Do you have another radio set, or can borrow one to check if that is the problem?
  21. I’m not aware of any low voltage protection. Here’s a shot of the inside - the battery is pretty basic, but it’s been in the for a long time now.
  22. Do you have any kind of low voltage protection on it? What batteries are you running?
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