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  2. I don't know what it is, but I want a Turbo Beaver on the name alone.
  3. Clod looks cooler....load her up with some weights add some 35t motors and 3s, should get the job done.
  4. My FR runs like a tank, with each stick controlling one motor and hence, one track. Add to that, side-to-side movement of the one stick runs the plow up and down and my old hands get confused. I'd rather it run like a joystick on one side and just the plow on the other. I thought that's what the Sabertooth would allow (in addition to being able to run a wheel radio if I desired).
  5. I am no You- G expert, but they look like the real deal to me , and period correct. The front damper uprights are super shot
  6. Thanks for the replies. I visited Dunks yesterday. Wasn’t able to buy anything though. The owner was a nice fellow and gave me a 2019 Tamiya RC Guidebook for free
  7. Today
  8. It looks like the mount on the gearbox sits too low to be able to do that. I think the angle of the link will be too much but I will happily be proved wrong.
  9. Maybe worth trying rc specific tools. I have read that the mainstream tool manufacturers don't use the best materials on the small hex tools as their customers don't use them (they want big sizes and occassionally use the tiny ones we use) so you need to buy the RC specific brands like MIP, Hudy and Arrowmax. I have found the same thing, the matte black ones rust (surface only, just doesn't look good) but work well. Others are hit and miss
  10. Oops. I completely forgot about JIS. I have never owned a JIS screw driver. Maybe I should buy a good one. When I install screws in a model, I only use hex screws unless I bought the model used. In that case I keep the self-tapping screws or used new self tapping screws and I always used a Philips driver with those. Those usually don't give me much issues though. The hex tools I bought include two with high quality hardened steel machined heads. One is a T wrench with three identical ends, and another is a 1/4" socket. I'm thinking about a couple of things that were problems. About half of the time I have an issue, it is because a hex screw is screwed into a metal part and not plastic. I think I cranked down too hard and didn't use any grease. Then later the steel screw was stuck in the aluminum. I then had to use a dremel to cut a notch and use a big flat head screw driver to remove the screw, or sometimes go to even greater lengths to rescue the other parts. The other times maybe the screw was tightened too much to begin with. With a socket wrench maybe I got a little crazy. I didn't think I did, at the time, but in hindsight maybe I did. A couple of other problems I have had may be due to the screw quality. I was buying grade 12.9 screws with silver, black, and gold finished on them. The finishes were definitely not as strong as the rest of the screw and in the hole where the hex driver is inserted, that could be a problem. I have also bought stainless steel screws and they were terrible. It was simply too easy to round our the hex hole or even shear the top of the screw off. From memory, the best hex screws were always matte black, but for me they always seem to get rusty even when they don't come into contact with water. Now I'm thinking to by a new 1/4" torque wrench. I have already ordered T8 and T10 1/4" sockets and also the tamiya M3 thread forming tap.
  11. What does it need to be on the side? If you have ball ends and camber links it should just work by lengthening the link slightly and twisting the outer ball end through 90 deg. I converted my TA06 usibg the same method.
  12. Axial EXO Rear Light Bezel and Radiator Set #AX80103 Found it.
  13. That's what I think may be the better option. But only the ones where the mount for the upper control arms mounts on the side not the top.
  14. It doesn't work for me, just resized my window into various shapes. I just open edit in new window.
  15. Sounds like it will be way too wide then. I suspect any of thr flat face TRF uprights will work, but only the very recent aluminium ones have toe in.
  16. Absolutely amazing - by far and away your best build yet. It’s a really nice addition to Ta’Mater, i love how visually similar it is whilst being totally different. The engine bay is on another level. Well done! You can retire now but please don’t
  17. As far as rear lights go, someone and I do not know who makes a class 4 rear bar that also echos the 4 light bar at the back of a prerunner. Class rules for the err... Classes dictate two reds and a blue and orange for dust. Would be appropriate on a desert buggy. Does anyone here know that company and part number?
  18. It's a problem with the site. Happens on all browsers for me on my desktop, but if browsing from my phone it works fine.
  19. "My old RC10 was fun until it broke, and it broke a lot. It's just not suited to bashing. Tamiya parts are plentiful and for the most part cheap. Keep the RC10 for the nostalgia, but buy a bashable tamiya for some addictive fun is my opinion" Ignore me, I mis-read and assumed he wanted a basher.
  20. I think I would need closer to 49/50mm drive shafts for them to sit right
  21. They look about 10mm too short to sit in the middle of the drive cup. The don't look rebuildable. Just been looking at TA04/TB02 uprights that are designed for these arms and the uprights are considerably narrower than the current ones
  22. How short are the cvds? are they rebuild able so longer can be fitted?
  23. I did a bit of experimentation with this kind of thing recently when looking for a chassis that might fit my 306 shell. I have a Comical Hornet when uses the TL01 rear uprights, but new longer-than-TL01 arms and 42mm driveshafts, so similar to your rear end. With zero offset racing wheels and 4.5mm thick hexes it was just barely under 190mm across the wheels. It would fit under my racing shell, but would go near my 306. If you have the shell already i would check the width. It might fit and if it does you can even out the front with 7 or 8mm thick hexes.
  24. Which hex tools did you buy? I have arrowmax purple and haven't had any problems. I have stripped a few but either know how i did it (not paying attention with a cordless driver) or there was a lot of use (on the race cars, some screws come out every meet which is unusual for rc cars). I have only ever had one which was so bad i had to cut a slot in it and that was absent-minded use of a cordless screwdriver. Mine are either kit screws, titanium or my generic uncoated 10.9 or 12.9 steel. I avoid stainless and titanium generic screws as its hard to know what you are getting. I know what you mean about the rust though, its not pretty
  25. Yes with jis Tamiya screw driver set I've never had an issue, ever!
  26. No pictures for this update. Not yet anyway. Major problem that I should have seen coming and don't know why I didn't sooner! As shown previously I got 2x sets of GPM 39mm cvds. The front set fit perfectly. I came to fit the rears last night and guess what.... They are too short. Lol. It appears that the rear arms and hubs are sitting much wider than the fronts. Now I don't know if that is down to the rear uprights or not. The front arms are sitting with TA04 hub carriers and hubs whereas the rear is using the TL01/M03 hop up uprights. I don't mind the rear sitting a bit wider due to the body I want to sit on it but I will need to get the perfect offset wheels so they sit flush with the body. My question is.... do I look for longer cvds or look to change the up rights?
  27. Consider the pudding over-egged after all... Jx
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