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  2. Thanks for your Responses, this is still one of the best Webforums i know Since i never ridden a a Racetrack, i dont know how many Turns, Corners, Straights and Crossings i should Put. Does anyone have Sggestions for a Layout that brings some fun? I don`t want to turn all the Grass into Track and i want to Decorate the Track. Is there any Suggestion of a nice Layout? I think that all of my Cas burst to topspeed on a Distance from 5 to 6 meters...
  3. I have a Zahhak which is pretty much upgraded to a TRF201 (and a little beyond). Here's what I'm using for electronics: Savox SC-1258TG Servo Tekin RS Gen2 ESC Trinity 24K 17.5 I'll have to check for sure, but I'm either using a 27T or 28T pinion right now. The motor is not a current top tier motor, but it does really good.
  4. If that does not work the oven cleaner approach should. I tried to bleach on a chrome Twin Detonator roll bar and it didn't touch it, but the oven cleaner removed it after an overnight soak.
  5. Welcome. As good as Tamiya is, you could find noticeable gaps. It's better than being too tight. In fact, DF-01, TA-01 chassis have the problem of prop shaft slightly binding. I might leave 1-2 mm of play. When you land hard, the chassis could flex and twist. The shaft shouldn't turn into a structural beam stopping the flex. Your chassis being carbon, there is very little flexing. But it could still flex like 0.2mm overall. The plastic parts that they are attached to could also give 0.1mm here and 0.1mm there, ending up with 0.5mm total flex at the shaft. I like blue parts too (well, I like orange anodizing better). But one thing you should note is that it could be weaker than steel parts. Because of that, I prefer not to use aluminum on shock tower nuts or drive cups. If you grind steel pins against aluminum cups, aluminum tends to lose. Of course, that depends on the kinds of alloy. I suspect my old iphone 5 is made out of stronger aluminum alloy. These "aircraft grade" aluminum are tougher (maintains sharp facets better). But even 6061 aluminum has hardness of 95, where as 361 stainless steel has hardness of 149. Steel is 50% harder than 6000 grades. Oddly, one of lower grades has 120 hardness level. But I doubt that Chinese makers are using that. The harder the material, the more often they must replace expensive machining parts. After all, RC parts don't need to be as strong as rock climber's gears. Back in early 2000, they used to make bumpers out of the same aluminum too. If they were 7075 aluminum and as strong as steel, the aluminum bumpers wouldn't have disappeared. But nobody would buy easily broken bumpers anymore. As for shock height and the hole location on the shock towers, that's entirely up to you. You can adjust depending on the terrain, weight of the oil, etc. The right and left should be the same length, obviously. After that, I just do the drop test. Lift the front end (with battery in it), and drop it. If it bottoms out, 3 things to consider: either the spring is too weak, clearance too low, too light an oil. Do the same for the rear. If the shocks move too little and the car bounces on the tires, 2 things to consider; lighter spring and/or lighter oil. If the shocks oscillate too much, just 1 thing to consider: oil. Mounting holes would change the stance: ground clearance. But it also changes the strength of the springs. (Strength of the springs don't change, but the force it takes to move the wheels up would change) I would say just experiment with it and have fun. Run it, have fun, break it, and also have fun restoring it and upgrading it. After all, RC is a tool for fun.
  6. Today
  7. There is no timing on the hobbywing justock 10.5. It is fixed, the hobbywing esc i use and the hobbywing program card does not let me boost or up the timing. I can only adjust the rotation, brakes ect. The throttle endpoints i actually have to turn up alot to give me the performance i have now.
  8. @Rb4276 Does the motor have end bell timing adjustment? If it does and it is set to zero it will be fairly slow and would also explain the lack of performance across the board. Also, just to eliminate everything, double check your throttle end points setup on your ESC and Tx, and any other adjustments for performance the ESC might have?
  9. hello and a warm welcome to tamiya club i see your in brum where about the shock ride height will depend on where you plan to run it as for the mounting position for the shocks just use the kit locations and alloy hop up tends not to be a good fit sometimes try and have a look at this video
  10. I recently purchased some wheels for my All Metal Frog from @njmlondon. Then I realised that I needed the adapters to fit them. They arrived today.. Pics of the fitted wheel upgrade to follow tomorrow.
  11. tamiya usa https://www.tamiyausa.com/blog/tamiya-cc-02-trail-truck-pictures-part-2/?fbclid=IwAR02wtuW7keH7szS3MIaLylvO5qvC4iObmdmyg4jO61T713HtCwmcKoJu-E
  12. Man that does look the part.
  13. The car is definitely slow off the line regardless of what pinion. The battery is a brand new protek 2s lipo, the battery is fine i used it in my optima too. The diffs i will check again later on and i found a .6 13t pinion i will try just to see if there is any difference with that. The tires are glued also, so that eliminates that. I think it is the diffs or the fdr still. Hopefully i cann figure it out
  14. Front bumper finished (headlamp lenses, indicators and number plate) have “reshaped” it using the matte black to give me more the look I wanted Just wish the rain would lay off JJ
  15. Yeah sure that’ll be great, thanks.. I had to watch duel every night for a month when I built this! I still enjoy it.. it’s totally underrated as a movie in my opinion.
  16. My better half was also not very enthusiastic at that time to drive around in the middle of nowhere for hours. If you want I can send you some pictures of what the area looks like today. Some spots from the movie are still recognizable today.
  17. Hi, thanks for your kind words and much appreciated.. I am a huge duel fan too but my wife thinks I’m sad so I’ll never get to visit the locations, I’m quite happy with the build and it is fully functioning with sounds etc, I will sort out a video just for you and let you know when I post it, I just need to find a suitable space to use it! thanks Jon
  18. Thanks all - I'll be buying a couple of liters of bleach on the way home and giving it a try!
  19. Unmasked the grill - happy with the results masked up the body too ready for the top coat JJ
  20. Nice! I ordered those tires. But I also ordered the decals sheet in 1/24th scale.
  21. I hit 80mph / 128kph yesterday with the TT02! Special thanks to NbTMM, Stew Mac, EL Dougo and others here who helped me. 20 more mph to 100!
  22. Pulled the trigger on something I've been wanting for a very long time: A custom cut CowRC Pro-Mag mat for the workbench! And been meaning to add one of these to my toolbox.
  23. Juggernut

    TNX 5.2R

    FINALLY finding some time for my 5.2r restoration. I've ordered lots of replacement parts in the meantime. Getting the diffs rebuilt and put back together:
  24. Geeez !! You are my hero ! I wanted to do this for Ages but my building skills are different minded. This is my all time fav movie and I am a DUEL -fan since i have seen the movie as a kid. Been visiting the filming locations during my last US-holidays (spent two extra days driving around Soledad Canyon Area to find all the top spots ). This is a fantastic build - especially the Fruehauf Trailer is absolutely spot on ! Hope you intend to do a vid with it running ??
  25. Avante steering set is for my Avante 2011 and Egress runner which needed a refresh.
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