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  2. OldSchoolRC1
    Yes, for 4WS on one channel you need a reversing cable so the servos turn in opposite directions. Can get an inline reverser, or a reversing Y cable. I have a 3 position switch on my go-to radio, I use it to control the rear steering separately. Works well, though sometimes I forget which way to go, switch to crab by accident and go careening off the side of a rock. The Flysky GT5 has crawl steering built in and I use that on a few rigs as well, it works great though it's a bit of a pain to switch it on the fly. Bottom line - if you can do it through your TX, that's for sure the way to go long term.
  3. Re-Bugged
    It’ll be worth the wait IMO @Nicadraus 😉
  4. Re-Bugged
    Woohoo 🥳 got out today for an hour which is probably going to be my only window of opportunity looking at the weather for the next week. It’s no secret I’ve never really been a big fan of TT02’s and my first few experiences with my TT02R have had a few problems that haven’t helped. I glad to say my opinion of them has changed in this rather hasty attempt at round 45. Realising the steering stops can be cut off with the CVD’s instead of dog bones is the first game changer as it no longer need’s 10 acres to do a u turn. And gearing down a bit (can’t remember to what to) making it much more Postal Race friendly 😁. It’s funny but I think the body choice makes a positive difference as well for a Truck nut like me. Mrs RB came along for the Fat Fox maiden run and to count laps. I’m not expecting any podium position but the 2 stints I made were thoroughly enjoyable despite us being eaten alive by sand flys. The little blighters tend to be drawn to attacking ones ankles and is rather like pulling on a pair of socks filled with shards of glass. My intrepid lap counter had to vacate after the 2 attempts for another appointment, so the touring car wheels were then replaced with some Drift wheels to drain the battery closer to storage state. That was the first time drifting for me and I have to say I really rather enjoyed that too.
  5. toyolien
    That looks great. Although, I think you should get some new decals made up. It needs to be called the "Long Shot" !
  6. Honza
    That looks cool! It's bummer that Tamiya didn't release some retro bodies on these chassis. It looks like it's been made for that.
  7. Today
  8. skom25 started following Futaba 3PV vs 4PM
  9. skom25
    Hi, I already created similar Topic, but it was more like general discussion about replacement for Sanwa MX-6 which failed me. I hope that with only two competitors, I will find more audience and opinions. Futaba 3PV vs 4PM. Any comments or opinions? I really have problem to choose which one I should buy. Main factor is of course price. One 4PM costs more than two 3PVs. MX-6 is nice. Menu is bit annoying, but I do not change settings constantly, so it is not an huge issue. I think 3PV is quite similar in this area. I watched few reviews of 4PM and it looks great, however, being totally honest I have feeling that I will not use 90% of functions. What I really like is adjustability of trigger etc. I am just not sure, if I want to pay so much money for radio, just to have adjustable triggers and TONS of functions which I will not use. Both use the same Receivers. Does it mean, that from connection/ response perspective, they should behave the same?
  10. Jourduson started following Help with BBX motor/ESC choice
  11. Jourduson
    It was the original pinion gear shaft that was too long, not the pinion gear. It wasn't much, so a hole solved the problem to keep it from rubbing on the casing. Also, the casing wouldn't close properly otherwise. I feel the disc covering the hole is discreet and placed so that it doesn't interfere with the look of the casing. The pinion gear you see here, is the original pinion gear supplied with the motor by Hobbywing. Hobbywing explicitly mentioned that this combo was also suitable for 1:10 despite the 5mm shaft. So I think that's why this 48P gear was supplied. Also included was a spare fan which pleasantly surprised me.
  12. Nicadraus
    Lovely shots @Re-Bugged I still have to get a Turbo Scorpion. It's my pending kit.
  13. Grumpy pants
    Fitted to the Blitzer Beetle and if used at all just run around the longe to test. 2 x 75 MM 2 x 90 MM From JK - RC £18 UK only
  14. Grumpy pants
    Fitted to the Blitzer Beetle and if used at all run around the lounge. £18 posted UK only.
  15. rknize rknize joined the community
  16. Chipster99 Chipster99 joined the community
  17. Aces high Aces high joined the community
  18. Unfinished50 Unfinished50 joined the community
  19. tortugoncio tortugoncio joined the community
  20. Ricky1989 Ricky1989 joined the community
  21. Yashiron Yashiron joined the community
  22. Badcrumble
    I saw your post and was on the move at the time. There was no way I could work out what might be wrong without sitting down and drawing it out on paper! My head just couldn't compute...still can't . You're not alone. The good thing about your new TX is that you'll probably be able to move it from standard 4WD / Crab / 4WS on the fly - lots of fun!
  23. Mad Ax
    It's Friday again! Despite last weekend being race weekend, I neglected to post since I was also busy prepping for a day out with my wife and starting my new job on Monday. So here I am, one week later, just one more day to go to finish my first week at work. Currently haven't done any actual work, still being trained (or more specifically waiting for the training schedules to come around), training myself on some topics I don't have experience with, and getting excited to actually start work in the next week or so. Friday - school run in 5 mins, then WFH today. To top off an already busy and stressful week, I have a filling at 2:30. Perfect time for a dentist's appointment. So probably not having the usual spicy food and beer for dinner tonight, instead I might be able to do some tidying in the workshop before bed. Saturday - quiet day at home with my daughter. Stress levels have been off the scale this week with meeting lots of new people, 3 solid days in a busy office and staying away from home - I've not done a full day in an office since 2018 - so I need some quiet time tomorrow. Hopefully my daughter won't want to go out anywhere, although it was her first week back at school since Easter, and she spent most of Easter away with grandparents, so she's probably ready for some relax time too. Eve - cook a meal and maybe chill with a movie, or maybe see if I've fixed the bugs in the scaler controller software. Sunday - Workshop Sunday. Finish the tidying first, sort out my race stuff from last weekend, then I think I'll get the hillwalking rig down and see what else needs doing. I haven't been walking for a long time, and it's only 5 weeks until I set off for my walking holiday in the lakes, so I really need to get some miles in. If I can get the truck moving under its own power, I'll take it out for a test-play and see how it handles the hills. I expect the shocks will be too soft and the tyres not up to the task, but it'll be fun finding out. Eve - spicy pizza and a few beers before getting back to the new job on Monday morning. Have a great one, everybody
  24. skom25 started following TT-02B ( or just Buggy CVA?) Rear Shock Shaft Length
  25. skom25
    Hi, I need your help, but first quick introduction. I crashed my TT-02B with aluminium shocks and unfortunately, one shaft is damaged. They are not available in my area, so I decided to use shaft from standard TT-02B. No big deal, because I will run it on asphalt, so I do not need much travel. As far as I know, TT-02B uses standard Buggy CVA shocks withouth o-rings inside. Now main issue: To keep balance of the car, I need to know, what is the length from the bottom of the REAR shock to the end of the shaft in stock TT-02B. I need this information, to know how many o-rings put inside, to limit travel. Is there anyone who can measure this? I am afraid, that I do not have any spares to check To be more precise, I need this distance from rear shock.
  26. skom25
    Update: I started with Carbon Shock Towers. Front was damaged after crash. I found small crack on the Top on probably chipped piece on one side. There is only one way to fix it: CA Glue. I put two layers of glue. My method is to put drop of glue on the edge/ chip and then spread it with toothpick. When it dried, I sanded edges using abrasive sponge #1000. Then I polished both towers with Tamiya Polishing Compound ( Coarse and Fine). I did this just to refresh parts a bit, not to remove all scratches. It does not make sense in runner. As you can see above, it is very easy to make edges Shiny. I do not like this effect, because it shows all imperfections. I prefer Semi Gloss finish, so I used sanding sponge #1000 once again. Then I installed both shock towers. I used conical washers but I am not sure if I like them. They are nice, but I have feeling that there are too many of them. I also added adjustable turnbuckles mounts. Nothing special, everything as in manual. Uprights. Too have the most secure connection and easy maintenance in future, I used screws and ball nuts. Just screw them through parts and use ball connectors. Then I installed uprights. To remove slope, I used: Front: 0.5 mm spacer + 0.2 mm shim Rear: 0.5 mm spacer + 0.3 mm shim Front is perfect: no play and upright is still totally free Rear was bit more tricky. At beginning, I used 1 mm spacer, but it was bit too tight. Probably 0.9 mm would be perfect. Then I switched to combination mentioned above, but there is tiny bit of play. Of course, I can still add 0.1 mm shim, but during maintenance it will be a horror. I prefer to have minimal amount of slope, than one more shim. Be aware, that I used new and used parts together. If you use only new parts, it is possible that my solution will not work for you. Of course, I used stainless shafts, because they are so much better than screwed standard shafts. Them I installed adjustable turnbuckles. On rear I used 3x32 turnbuckle as in manual. On front, I used 3x22 instead of 3x28. Why? Because with 3x32 there will be almost no space for adjustments, and 3x28 is not available in aluminium version. If you will run only on asphalt or not demanding Off Road, that combination will be perfect. If you have plan to jump etc. stick to 3x28. I will prepare separated Post, how to prepare turnbuckles quick, easy and without pain. I know that for some of you, it is annoying part. I think the same, but I finally found good method and I am able to prepare full set in around 20 - 30 minutes.
  27. JimBear
    If you do it on canvas ... just to give an example: we have one 70x70 cm print of a flower on the wall. It's a part of a scan from a print, itself from a part of 24x36 mm film negative ... Compared to what you get from a camera or phone todsy, it's nothing. Doing glossy prints in poster sizes is going to need more photo quality, but at home (unless you happen to live in a castle) print sizes and viewing distances gives you options even with todays' low-end euipment.
  28. JimBear
    If I wasn't sold on the Kyosho Turbo Scorpion already, it would make me buy two (if I had the money).
  29. Mad Ax
    I've cut the sidewalls off a set of used slicks and pushed them inside the warmers. That fills out the space and allows the heat to be transferred into the smaller tyres. I wasn't really sure they were necessary - the few times I raced without them, I didn't really notice much difference in initial grip. I did M-chassis and FWD back in 2022 and it was too stressful, I like that I've got well over an hour between each round to get my car sorted and grab a drink before having to rush out again. Come say hello if you see me at Carlisle or Broxtowe
  30. JimBear
    @Badcrumble - me being the resident village idjit, I did just assume that any sort of Y-cable would do ... perhaps not, then! I had no idea, so I just bought a Yeah Racing Servo Y-cable, like this one: https://tamico.de/Yeah-Racing-Servo-Y-Kabel-blau-150-mm-JR-Futaba-Plug I ended up as you, ordered another TX (7-channel).
  31. JimBear
    Double post
  32. Alex97
    These cheap bearings are ok however they are filled with quite a thick oil which means they aren't the smoothest however definitely better than a bushing.
  33. Anthroxoid
    Oh nice bodywork. I’m subbing to see how you make out and congrats on getting the RC disease!
  34. Anthroxoid
    My vote for a lasting 4WD to keep around is for the regular Optima Mid. I’m not brand loyal but if you’re going for an older design to keep around the ‘22 Mid is fantastic. I’d say probably the only critical modification that it needs for rough running is one of the various undertrays in order to help it plane over grass clumps and keep the crap out of the chassis, but they are great runners and fun to build. Maybe a HotShot II would be my second pick as long as I was allowed to put enough power into it to make up for the drag in the drive train. I like the way that Hot Shots drive on smooth surfaces but they kinda suck in the rough without making the suspension work better. The tires are also a great mixed terrain pattern. PS—you should build a fancy Tamiya kit when you are presented with thst opportunity. They’re a different kit style entirely compared to most Kyoshos and that adds to the novelty. I don’t want to state the obvious though perhaps this isn’t talked about often in vintage forums, but you can control the pitch of your car “in flight” with the throttle. Punch it forward and the acceleration of the tires will lift the nose up, and similarly, if you’re banking to one side in the air, try steering the wheel while the tires are still spinning and you can level the car out for a smoother landing on all fours which is basically the same gyro effects that motorbikes use to do wild tricks.
  35. Pylon80
    Rush plus Tamiya wheels is just on the loose side. I'll try to take a picture. I was hoping someone had tried that combination before I permanently glue the tires.
  36. Andreas W
    No experience with them, but seems better for wheels that we like than Ride. They are Ø47mm, so the rim drops straight into the tyre and no glue in the world can fix that . I normally bend the bead up a little wuthe the thumb and apply a det of CA. Normally 4 dots each side.
  37. GTodd
    Pretty cool video from AE.
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